ChrisNH

I didn't say anything about the 9i off the tee, just gave example of approach to back pin. 7 iron I referenced off the tee, but it really doesn't matter whether from fairway or tee as I don't see any real carry distance difference off tee or from fairway. In both cases the ball is struck prior to low point in swing arc so it's always ball first. The somewhat inconsistent spin numbers across the face is what causes the low spin shots to fly farther. From the rough, those 699 lower spin tendencies (that all hollow body irons seem to suffer from a bit) and resulting spin inconsistencies are exacerbated.

This year I played a mixed set of 699u 2 iron & 5 iron, 699 6 iron and 699 pro 7-PW with the Project x stiff graphite shafts. I really enjoyed the irons overall. But I've changed to the Ping i210 for a bit more distance consistency via more loft and spin. The sub70 699 family of irons are superb for distance and are very forgiving. Their downside, for me, is the occasional lack of spin causing big flyers and big distance dispersion. I have average swing speed and carry 9 iron typically 140 yards. As an example of the flyers I've had numerous back pins, like 146y to pin and hit stock 9 iron to ensure stay short of the hole since long is dead, and have it fly in the mid 150's to carry over everything by a large margin leaving big problems. The occasional 7 iron, which averages 174y carry with 6k spin will often spin 4.2k off the tee and carry 190's. Launch monitor spin numbers show the significant spin deviation, which can get extreme from rough, and it cost me roughly 2 shots on the handicap this year, hence the change to the i210's in retro lofts recently. If you need distance and forgiveness then the 699 family is great. If you want control via predictable spin then not so much. Just my experience. My 699 combo set is on the market. 1 degree upright, standard length, lofts progressively weakened from factory on shorter irons to tame carry distances a bit (i.e. PW is 46*), standard tour velvet 360 grips.

It's the driving range on screen with greens for targets and shot tracers. I've got skytrak on the way. Can't wait. The only downside I've heard is that there is no spin degradation on the driving range shot tracers, which means that fades and draws will be a bit more pronounced than actual shots because the sidespin is constant in their calculation and doesn't reduce over the ball's flight like it does in real life.

I may have to give that puttout device a try. I use the grint to keep stats and it shows 32.5 putts per round historically for 1.8 putts per hole, but I hit 53% of GIR so needs improvement. I notice my avg putts per round goes way down when I hit fewer greens, but not sure that's a strategy I want to pursue for he sake of putting stats. How are you liking the Skytrak? Have you used it as a simulator at all on any of the virtual courses, or just for range practice? Is it accurate enough for determining club gapping distances? I'm really close to buying one for the garage setup to make the long northern winter seem a bit more bearable.

I don't understand how a single dot could possibly help align anything. My main putter is just a plain 8802 with nothing on it at all. My 2 backup putters are different models of Odyssey O works with heavy lines and color changes to help align. I go to those when in a putting funk and it seems to help me get back on track. I end up using the 8802 about 3/4 of the time but never more than a couple of weeks it seems before the stroke gets too rounded and I start pushing puts then not seeing the line.

It's likely a lack of clubhead speed that causes it to run after landing. A 5 or 7 wood will give you the extra height resulting in stopping sooner after landing, and be a bit easier to hit to boot. Win-win. I have reasonably high swing speed and I face the same situation as you with my GAPR mid 3 hybrid that I have delofted to the lowest setting. It runs quite hot when it lands, so if I have long par 3's and it's a calm day I'll often ditch it for my 5 wood so it'll hold the greens.

Agree with that. Aiming to finish a couple of feet below the hole on a dangerous slanted green should move that dispersion that distance below the hole. I don't think it necessarily means your putts are any longer on average as that twitter post seems to suggest. I envision the long term net result to be an advantageous tradeoff of the putts above the hole being a fraction closer on average and the putts below the hole that same fraction further away..

You can also crank down the loft on the adjustable hosel to make it like a 2 and even easier to hit low and fast.

Rather than something you set and leave bowed throughout the swing I think of it as something best done a small amount from the top to help get the face squaring earlier.

That's something that I've done for a long time. Envision the hole in a different location. Not just chipping, either, but putting also. It's also how I deal with slow or fast greens - envision the hole closer or further away and it helps save strokes.

This same bunch of lead tape has been on this 33" 8802 since the mid/late 90's.

When struggling with putter contact I stick a bandaid near the toe and heal, on each side of the sweetspot that only leaves a small part of the sweetspot exposed. If you miss the sweetspot and hit the ball on the cushion of the bandaid you know it immediately and the ball goes halfway to the hole. The basics of putting are keeping your core/head rock still, so as long as you do that find a way to set up where you can see the line and make a repeatable stroke. Don't limit yourself to the "conventional" wisdom on setup and ball position - find a way to see the line and let your inner athlete out to roll it on that line.

I use the Walmart brand, Equate, I think it is, spray suncreen. The 50 spf sport. Usually buy them in the big can, or the 2 pack of smaller cans, pretty cheap compared to the name brand stuff. It works well and is easy to apply. I spray everywhere I can and spray extra on the back of my right hand (not my golf glove wearing hand) to put in on my ears, forehead, etc.

The biggest putting difference I've ever seen is figuring out how to best see the line, and develop a stance and stroke that allows you to naturally roll the ball on that line. I putted extremely well when younger putting almost entirely by feel. Had the ball far up in my stance, off the front foot and used an old, short 8802 toe hang putter with my arms fully extended. I got away from that for 20 years listening to the "experts" about how ball should be directly under your eyes, straight back-straight thru shoulder rocking stroke, use the line on ball, etc. Big mistake. I made lots of 3-5 footers, but made way fewer long putts and often struggled with distance control and more 3 putts than I ever had. When I got back to that old putter and actually being able to see the line and roll it pure I putted SO much better. Bottom line is find a way to let the natural inner athlete out and forget about all the technical stuff and mimicking most of the guys on TV.

I played the Callaway Chrome soft Truvis in yellow for 3 years and I can see them in the air and on the ground so much better than a white ball, or even a solid colored ball.

If the ball is starting on line at the middle of the green like you describe and you just don't know whether it's going to draw or fade from there then find a feel the gets the ball curving consistently in one direction and adjust your aim point to the opposite edge of the green.

Have her try getting into left side before backswing even complete and have a feeling of her chin getting a couple inches closer to the ball in transition. May have to exaggerate those feels even more if that doesn't keep her in posture and covering the ball.