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Found 21 results

  1. Decided to put a BGT Stability Tour on my Edel EAS 4 putter. Had to do a bit of golf shop engineering to get the results I was after but all in all it was a straightforward process/project. 1. You'll have to measure the shaft diameter on your putter if you decide to do this as the shafts are sold with a specific diameter shaft insert opening. My putter was .370. You also need to make sure that diameter is present 8.25 inches from the head of your putter unless you're replacing a straight shaft. Mine, as you'll see in the photos, is a bend shaft. 2. I cut a piece of painter's tape to 8.25 inches and laid it on the existing putter shaft moving from the head up the shaft. That's where the existing putter shaft is cut (I used my chop saw) to create the "stub" that's going to be inserted into the graphite part of the BGT shaft. 3. The BGT comes with a straight section of shaft to be used if you're replacing the shaft in a straight shaft putter. There's a 2.5 inch "prepped" end of that insert. The top 2.5 inches of my "stub" shaft needed to be sanded to remove the chrome finish so good adhesion would occur once assembly took place. 4. There's a small "stop" inside the bottom of the BGT which allows you to insert the stub a precise distance and no further. End result of my build was I have just less than 6 inches of the original putter shaft with the balance now being the graphite/carbon fiber BGT shaft. 5. My Edel had a counterweight in the grip area of the shaft. 50 grams to be precise. Unfortunately the outer diameter of that Opti Vibe (or whatever it was) wouldn't fit into the butt end of the BGT shaft. Sooooo, I modified a Super Stroke putter shaft insert weight (50 grams) and was able to insert that into the butt of the BGT shaft as a replacement. 6. Cut to length, use the round standard Edel grip I'd ordered in anticipation, and presto, all done. Hoping to get out this weekend to see how it rolls. Thanks for looking, I'm happy to answer any questions you might have.
  2. I've been doing some at-home analysis of my stats for the past 16 months and wanted to share in the hopes that you might be able to provide some ideas or insight into what else could be done with this information. After every round I input date, score, round index, number of: birdies, pars, bogeys, doubles, triples, putts, GIRs and fairway percentage into a google drive sheet. I then update scatter plots that show score vs.: birdies, pars, bogeys, double, triples, GIRs, putts and FIR and a separate set that shows round index vs each of those stats. My initial goal was to see how each of these stats correlated with my score/index and to see if I could use this information to improve my game. Here's a summary chart of my findings: I'm not a stats wiz per se, but did take a class in college and know my way around excel/google drive. For the uninitiated, the R-squared of a regression tells you how much the two variables correlate. The highest possible R-squared value, 1.0, would indicate that two variables correlate perfectly and the lowest possible value, 0.0, would indicate the two variables do not correlate at all. For the sake of simplifying the analysis I used a second degree polynomial regression and the following correlation ranges: 1.0-0.7 Strong, 0.7-0.4 Medium, 0.4-0.2 Small, 0.2-0.0 None. Some insights from the data: 1. First of all, I was surprised that none of the stat categories had a "strong" correlation to my score/index. This makes me wonder if there is something else that does correlate well or if the score/index is just influenced by too many different variables for one to really shine through. 2. I rarely make birdies (4 total over 30 rounds of golf) so it makes sense that they would have no correlation with my scores. 3. Because birdies are so rare, pars are essentially the lowest score I make on a hole. It therefore makes sense to me that these have the second highest correlation to my score/index. The highest correlation belongs to triples, likely because they represent the highest possible score on a give hole. Its not rocket science to know more of the lowest score and less of the highest score lowers your overall score/index but its good to see the data back it up. 4. There is hardly any correlation between score/index and bogeys or doubles. This is likely because it matters less how many of each I make as opposed to what they "would" have been. By that I mean on any given day I could score well with a lot of bogeys if they otherwise "would" have been doubles or I could score poorly with a lot of bogeys if they otherwise "would" have been pars. The same goes for doubles that "would" have been bogeys or triples. 5. All else being equal having less putts should mean a lower score but number of putts doesn't tell the story of how you got to the green. I am much more likely to three-putt after a GIR because I am typically starting farther from the hole. Likewise I am more likely to one-putt when I've chipped it close which usually means I missed the green so an extra stroke had to be taken. For this reason it makes sense to me that putts have a small correlation on score/index. However, I can't explain why the putts would better correlate to index (borderline medium correlation) compared to score. See below for more on this. 6. I would have expected GIR to correlate most with score/index and am surprised at how little it does. My only explanation here is that as with birdies, I don't have many GIRs overall so the impact they can have is limited. Similar to putts there is also a disparity between the correlation between score (borderline medium) and index (none) that I can't explain. I am also confused by why the disparity between the two stats is reversed from putts to GIR. The only semblance of explanation I can think of is that I was lucky enough to St. Andrews this past year and their oversized greens produced outlier numbers by increasing both my number of putts and GIRs. However, this was only two rounds out of 30 (both produced slightly better than average scores and indices), is the data that sensitive? 7. There is absolutely no correlation between FIR and score/index, this is the clearest answer of all the stats. This is backed up by recent Shot Scope data that farther is better than straighter (assuming both are in bounds). I think I'd be most curious to see if other people find similar correlation (or lack thereof) between their stats and score/index, what might change based on handicap, and what other analysis could be done with this or similar data?
  3. I want to start this by saying that I really like collecting logo golf-balls from courses that I play and sometimes just visit. I find it a complete bummer to play a new course and they don't have a logo ball. In additon to new course play, I also have a goal to play at least 9 - 18 holes in all of the 50 states and of course I collect a logo ball from each course. I've covered 10 states including my home state of Texas. And my evidence that I played is a logo ball. But there are times when a course does not have a ball. Like last week, I was working in South Carolina and played two course around the Greenwood area. I played 18 on one course that I was looking forward too, but once I got there I found out no logo balls. Fortunately the other course (played 9) did have a ball (so SC was covered). But still kept that feeling that I needed a ball from the first course I played there. I also collect balls for the companies I have worked for other special places/companies/projects, etc. Through spin-offs mergers or changing jobs, I have managed to work for 6 companies. Five of which I was able to get a ball for while I worked there, but for one I could not find a ball. I did a lot of searching the web and their company store, but no evidence of a ball was found. This got me thinking, "could I use printable water slide decals that the model builders use, to print my own logos and apply them to a ball". I saw this product once while perusing the model car section of Hobby Lobby. I used to build models cars as a kid and the water slide film is very thin. As you will see it can be done and quite easily. The process starts with some Testors Clear Printable Decal paper and spray decal bonder/set. The decal bonder locks the ink to the decal paper and prevents it from running once wet. If you buy it from Hobby Lobby, make sure you take a 40% off coupon for one item. The paper is on the expensive side at $12 for 6 sheets of 5.5 X 8.5 paper. But you should be able to get a bunch of logos from that material. This is a clear plastic paper that will take printing via an inkjet printer. I am a photographer by hobby and have a nice photo printer that I print photos with. But you can use any good quality inkjet printer. Also there are a number of companies that make printable decal paper (search Amazon or eBay). All you need is a app to allow the capture and editing of a graphic and printing of the graphic. To find a logos, I simply do a google image search for the golf course or company, etc. Many will have some sort of logo that you can download online. However one of my old favorite courses (but now closed) did not have a logo. I did find a picture of a flag from the course so I decided to use that as a logo (assuming that if they ever had a logo, that would likely be it). Fortunately it is a simple 1 color graphic that I was able to recreate in Power Point. But again, you wont need Power Point if you have a digital graphic. Once you have an image its a simple matter of editing the image and shrinking it down to fit on a golf ball. I found from some searches that 3/4" - 1" is a good size for a ball logo. So I set all my logo's to be about 7/8" to 1" wide (they looked the best to my eye, but do test prints, as one size does not work for all logos). I highly suggest that you print them out on plain paper first. Cut them out and test fit them to the ball. If too small, make it larger and test print again. If too big, then make them smaller and repeat until you get them to the size you want. But don't waste your decal paper trying to get the sizing correct, test on plain paper first and in black and white to save ink. To print them I used MS Word and built a page 5.5" wide by 8.5" long, the same size as the decal paper (but others sell it in 8 1/2" X 11") and Word is very easy to use. Once I had my image in MS Word, it was a simple matter of sending the print to the printer. I used photo paper settings with the highest quality. And print out 2-3 images at a time for each logo, as you might mess up the first decal and have to start over. Having extras means all you have to do is cut out another. Once printed, I let the print dry. For some printers this can be a few minutes (like mine) or many hours for others. In order to save on the paper, I cut the printed strip off. Then sprayed the cut off with a couple of light coats of the decal bonder. You don't want to spray the entire blank page as I assume you cant print on it again once sprayed (this was not tested by me so I don't know if its true). I found that I can print on the cutoff remainder just fine down to about 4 inches long. The bonder didn't seem to need more that 30 minutes to dry, but there were not instructions on the spray can or the paper package. I waited 30 min to 1 hour each between coats. Once the bonder was dry, I cut out the decals and trimmed them close to the edge. This is not critical since the balls I used were white and any un-printed edge did not show (note, use white balls as you can't print white on most consumer printers and if your logo has a white background it will have to show through the clear). Also use some cheap balls, unless you have money to burn I wouldn't do these on ProV1's. I had a bunch of Callaway and Nike balls that I got free that I don't play, (stuff I hit at the range sometimes). Finally take small bowl of warm water and let the decal soak to loosen the backing paper. While soaking I take this time to go wash my hands and the ball with some warm water and hand soap to remove any oils. I dried my hands but left the ball wet. This makes it easy to move the water slide decals around. At this point I gently slide the decal off the backing on to the ball, not using my hands on the sticky side. You can move the decal around and make sure its in the correct position. Then gently pat dry with a dry paper towel. Once pressed in, I take a q-tip (cotton swab) and roll over the surface to get any excess water out and press in the dimples to push out water as well, then let them dry over night. The final step is to spray with a light misting of decal bonder to seal the edges (not sure this is called for, but made me feel better anyway). Below are the first 4 balls I did are from courses I have played and the other is one is of a company where I worked. Looking at the balls its hard to tell that they are decals. But you can feel them slightly with your hands.
  4. I've been trying to figure out a cheapish graphite shaft pulling setup for a while. I came across some videos on Youtube (here and here) by a guy who built one from a couple of vises. He's from the UK, so he says it cost less than &20. I picked up the vises for about $20 a pop at the hardware store. I cut out the aluminum cuff myself, but I'm going to get one from Golfworks here shortly, and had the torch and shaft vise collar already. It's a pretty simple design, and it works a charm, so I thought I'd share it in case anyone is interesting in making one themselves.
  5. Hello MGS Community, I'm a long time consumer of MyGolfSpy, but this is my first Topic I've created. The gist of this thread is how to build the best Home Simulator for $4,000. That seems like a lot, but in my honest opinion, this is the lowest cost you can get while getting a full sim experience with true ball data instead of random ball data assumed from club data systems like the Optishot's infrared system. I'm not here to brag about anything as you can see from pictures below that I built this system over a number of years and countless hours of research. In the below spreadsheet, I work through an analysis of each of these components and review them based on personal experience and the reviews of trusted golf equipment reviewers: 1. Launch Monitors 2. Hitting Mats 3. Nets and Impact Screens 4. Simulator Softwares 5. Projector In the spreadsheet, I provide data on my research, actual use, recommendations, costs, and links to the products. I will say you can spend a lot more than $4,000 using my spreadsheet, but you can also spend less. There are always more expensive and cheaper options out there that will work, but I have done my best to give an in depth review of those products including the pros and cons on when to go expensive vs. when is the cheaper option just as good if not better. Popular brands in the analysis are Skytrak, Flightscope Mevo, GC2, Optishot, Net Return, Carl's Place screens, Viewsonic projector, Fiberbuilt, Truestrike, The Golf Club 2019, and TruGolf by E6. Here is the viewable spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hbjBM2Iuk7QC4s6XDVrrWlrEZ7lDRvdwN0qTulBDK7k/edit?usp=sharing Below are some pictures of my final and some of my earlier setups:
  6. I've designed my own putter, and had it CNC milled. It's freaking gorgeous, and I'm obsessed. It has a flow-neck design, and unfortunately, the diameter male section that goes inside the shaft is just slightly too small for the .370" shaft it's used for. I've tried putting tape around the tip before inserting in the shaft, and it seemed to work, but only for about 2 hours of use, then the head came loose again. I'm using a lot of epoxy with glass beads, but don't want the putterhead to be wobbly or come loose. Any suggestions as to how to make it work? Thanks in advance for your help!
  7. Just got the wife driver, 3 wood, and 5 wood in Taylormade M6 with Senior Flex. We bought them stock because she's a brand new golfer and got fit into standard senior flex shafts for the M6 irons. Her irons have slightly smaller grips, and I was wondering on the basics of changing grips at home. What tools do I need to do it properly? As a beginner, is it worth it to do on my own? Or would it be better to get it done professionally and practice on my own before tinkering with grips?
  8. I just finished this project in time before we started getting some bad weather here and before things started to get shutdown. I still have a couple more things still to do before it reaches its final form but so far I’m really happy with how it has turned out. The putting surface is a 12’x4’ Birdie Ball Mat places on top of a 4” thick platform. Eventually I will be cutting holes in the platform to install full size cups and adding self leveling feet to the platform. The idea is to eventually be able to adjust the base to replicate different breaks so that I can get more practice using Aimpoint and be able to have a space to still teach students during the bad weather months.
  9. I decided to use this down time to get the tools and materials necessary to stamp my wedges. I got a 1/8" letter/number stamp set, small (3") anvil, oil-based paint pens and acetone (to clean off paint). I plan to experiment on some old wedges before I do anything to the gamers. Has anyone does this and have any advice or "lessons learned" to help guide me?
  10. Looking to do some putting practice inside. Has anyone ever made their own version of The Putting Board? I love the idea, but not the price tag ($130). The keys to creating this is understanding if there's any arc in the board, and what the angles are for the takeaway and follow-through positions. I'll let you know what I come up with, but thought I'd check if anyone has already created one. Cheers
  11. It feels like forever since the sun was last shining here in northern England and I was able to get out and hit some golfballs in the garden... although it was actually only 8 days ago! We're forecast some nice dry weather this weekend so I hope to get out there once again and teach myself some basics to improve my short game. Last week I tried a cricket-style shot, as suggested by my brother, where I decrease loft by keeping my hands in front of the club head and pushing through, popping the ball up off the ground and landing with little back spin. It is a delicate little shot, which worked well at a very short range, but I found I was digging the club into the turf. Any tips to avoid doing this? I think this shot could be used within close proximity to the green where there is little room for error...? Secondly I tried a more conventional chip where my hands are directly above the club head, totally square at the point on impact. I kept a shallow angle of attack and follow through, reducing the thins I usually hit. This worked better for longer range shots and stopped the ball dead due to increased backspin. I think this will become my default shot as it feels great lifting the ball into the aid and dropping it down so nicely. I enjoyed the control of this shot and figured out the placing the ball further forward/back determined how high the ball goes. Result! These shots are a real eye opener for me as I have never practiced chipping/pitching and just "go for it" during a round. I hope that by the time we get back onto the course I'll be able to put these into practice and see my scores reduce significantly. Ps. I hope you are all keeping safe and well, maintaining safe distances and doing everything possible to stay healthy.
  12. Great forum, great community, and I am sure one of the knowledgeable members has come across this question before (or, can point me in the right direction). I have used the search bar some to pin point this topic to some effect, but haven't come across the answer that satisfies my curiosity. I already know and understand a dynamic fitting and static fitting work best for shaft fitting and it's hard to beat a good (and patient) fitter. My question pertains to online iron shaft fitting/recommendations from most of the shaft manufacturers and/or online fitting services: How relevant is a question regarding iron distance (say, 6i carry) when your current 6i loft and the set you are interested in purchasing is different? I could ,theoretically, hit my 6i 170 yards using a 26* loft but only hit my buddies 6i 155 yards using 29*...these are just relative numbers to express a questionable point... with all other variables being the same (relatively speaking) but loft. My interpretation of the line of questions for iron shaft recommendation is that it is generating results based on flight and dispersion preferences along with swing speed/power/carry distance. However, if my current 6i is 26* and is allowing me to move the ball 170yds down the fairway, how good is the online fitting tool going to be if the new set I am interested in has a more traditional loft to it? Am I totally off base in this line of thinking? Are the manufacturers shaft recommendations useless? Again, I apologize if this has already been discussed ad nauseam. Happy golfing!
  13. Wanted to share my golf ball rack that I actually built late last year. I have to say that I am proud of it. Had been eyeing making a new rack for my logo golf ball collection. Had a store bought rack that held 72 balls, but it was quite ugly IMO. I really liked this one and decided to copy it: https://www.woodshopi...golf-ball-rack/ Mine is made from cherry, one of my favorite woods to work with. The example looks like cherry as well. I'm a wood worker and love building things and tinkering, especially if its for golf its a bonus for me. In either case, I'm really proud of what I did. I do have a PDF of the sketch. PM me and I can email if you like. This rack is 6 X 15 (90 balls). But I have another sketch for a 6 X 9 design (54 balls) for my 50 states project. I'll wait till it cools off in Houston before I get back in the garage to start building. My 50 states project is a plan to play at least 9 holes in each of the 50 states. I'll have 10 by end of this year. Just did two 9's in Salt Lake City. This is the finished piece in the raw before filling and final sanding. And then a couple of the finished rack.
  14. Hello, For some reason my 9, PW, W are going short. I expect 10-15 yard increments. What I getting is a much shorter distance. The gap is 20-30 yards. Checked the loft on all the clubs and they are right on the correct loft. I am playing Titleist AP 1. I changed the shaft to the Fiber/Steel shafts. Recently, after considering the weight difference between Kuro Kage shafts and the Fiber/Steel shafts. So I increased the head weight two swing weights on the 9, pw, and w. The yardage increased. Still not up to my Pings. Any suggestions or tip. I am ready to hear them. If all else fails, I bought a new bag to make the irons easier to sell.
  15. Hey guys. I am wondering what the process you use to get out the nicks and dents and scratches in golf clubs you work on? If using a bench grinder, what wheels/compounds do you use and in what order if using several? Thanks!
  16. Im sure that many of you who have went to see your club pro, or went for a lesson have been told the you "need new grips". Its very convenient that the pros are at hand to do it for you. Recently I was amazed when a friend told me he was being charged £20 to get his driver regripped, and that was standard!!! I thought this was steep to change a grip. I went onto eBay, had a hunt and bought 20 Golf Pride Multi Compound Grips for £3 each, plus got to choose what colours I wanted. Then I bought myself some double sided tape and gave changing my grips a go. The toughest thing has to be taking the old grip off, but that was easy enough. I think it took me the guts of 10 minutes to change the grip and left it to dry for a couple of hours. I don't get why anyone would pay £20!!! Here is how I did it, don't know if anyone has any better suggestion: 1. Remove Grip with a Stanley knife SAFELY!!! 2. Wrap the double sided tape around the shaft. 3. Put a tee in the end of the grip and put a small amount of petrol in the grip, rinse around for a second and pour out the excess. (This softens the grip up so that it can be applied easily.) 4. Slide the grip onto the shaft. 5. Twist the grip until it is in line. 6. Leave to dry for several hours. I think everyone should give this a shot. Saves a lot of money if you are redoing all your irons. On another note, I love the Golf pride multi compound grips but does anyone think there are better grips out there. Always like to test out new things.
  17. I loved the Vapor look and I went to purchase them last year and I was not super impressed, sorry Nike. So this year I did something to upgrade my clubs, for cheap!! First I removed my club heads. I had them all cleaned up and removed rust and paint. I also cleaned my VR Black Oxide wedge. I added Bright Green Grips. I added Bright Green Ferrules with 2 white stripes. (look like tube socks to me) I torch finished my wedge. I blued the split cavity (3-6 iron). Then I paint filled the Nike Swoosh to match the Bright Green. Then white paint fill for a clean look (my opinion). Feels like a brand new set of clubs to me and they play great!! Thanks for reading!
  18. So I've seen some neat looking stamps and paint fills on this site in the small amount of time I've been here but I'm a hopeless golf addict and love seeing all the different ways people make a club or even a whole set uniquely theirs and I know I'm not the only one. So I started this topic for people to proudly display their masterpieces, in hopes that everyone can enjoy these awesome projects and maybe even inspire others to put a personal flair to their gear. So have fun and may your drives find the short grass!
  19. Recently I've been toying around with making myself a yardage booklet of my home course. I most recently tried the 3UP method. It's a good one but I just lost interest in using Google Earth and the sketch program it requires. I'm just not that techie anymore. So, I'm going back to the old school method of sketching up my own. Well sort of…. I ordered a couple of Yardage Marker™ flip booklets to give myself a little guidance and head start. The booklets are spiral bound and the pages are a nice heavy card stock paper. On the front cover it says, A Do-It-Yourself Yardage Book for the Competitive Golfer. Inside the front cover is a description of how to use the book along with common symbols and two example holes of what you'll want to emulate. I think what I'll do initially is go out on the course alone in the late evenings and walk a few holes at a time. I have a measuring wheel to push as well as a laser GPS. I'll take along some other type of tablet and make some sketches as I go. Later I'll re-sketch what I drew in my Yardage Book. I think the whole exercise will be interesting and a good learning process. Over time I can refine my book as needs arise. Does anyone else use a yardage book? Have you made your own?
  20. PUTTER GRIP INSTALLATION & CARE (Part 1) In this first installment, we lay out the simple steps for installing a putter grip. If you are someone who enjoys Do-It-Yourself projects, you will find this process fun and rewarding. If not, you may want to head to your local pro shop and let them do the heavy lifting. Supplies you will need for installation: Bench Vice Rubber Shaft Clamp Utility Hook Razor Blade Two Sided 2" Grip Tape Grip Solvent Spray Bottle Shop Towels Small Paint Tray ***CAUTION*** Always perform grip installations in a well ventilated area to avoid a hazard. Step 1: Firmly secure your putter shaft into the vice. Secure the putter firmly into the vice. Be sure to apply only enough pressure to secure the putter from twisting during installation. Next, place the paint tray beneath the grip end of the club to catch all excess grip solvent. Expert Tip: Make sure that the putter is squarely lined up, with the toe pointing up at the sky. This will make alignment easy when it easy when it comes time to install the new grip. Step 2: Remove the old putter grip. Using a utility knife, with a hook blade razor, make a straight cut the entire length of the putter grip starting at the narrow end of the grip. Next, peel away the old putter grip and any grip residue, leaving only the old grip tape on the handle. Step 3: Remove the old grip tape. Remove the old grip tape at your own pace. You may use the utility knife, a heat gun or hair dryer to make this step faster easier. Be sure to remove all traces of glue from the shaft handle. Expert Tip: Use heat and acetone to remove any stubborn glue remnants. Step 4: Apply the new grip tape. Measure out a strip of grip tape 1" longer than the length of your grip and cut. Apply the adhesive side of the tape lengthwise to the handle, leaving the 1" inch excess tape overlapping the butt end of the handle. Next, peel away the tape backing and proceed to wrap tightly over the handle. Twist the excess 1" of overlapping tape and plug it into the shaft butt end. This will keep all debris and solvent out of the shaft after installation. Expert Tip: Be sure and check the core size of your new putter grip and your shaft handle diameter before performing installation. Most putter shaft butt ends will measure at .580 inches, and most putter grips will have a M58 core size. This combination will create a perfect standard size fit. However, there are some putter grips that have a M60 core size. If you run into this situation with a .580 shaft butt end, make sure that you use a couple of extra wraps of tape under the right hand of the grip. As this will allow for a perfectly fit. Step 5: Apply the grip solvent to the grip tape. Pour (1) cup of grip solvent into a spray bottle. Hold the new putter grip vertical with the butt end in your hand. Using your finger, cover the hole in the grip butt end and spray 5-7 sprays of solvent into the grip. Also, use the spray bottle to wet the new grip tape with solvent. Next, with your finger still over the hold in the grip butt end, use a finger from your opposite hand to cover the large grip hole and proceed to mix the solvent inside of the grip. After the solvent is mixed, dump out all excess solvent onto the new grip tape. Step 6: Install the new putter grip. With the grip visually lined up squarely to the putter toe, slide the new grip over the grip tape and towel off to dry any excess solvent and avoiding contact with the leather portion of the grip. Expert Tip: When installing the new putter grip, make sure that the grip tape has been liberally treated with solvent. If you do not use enough solvent the grip may get stuck half way on during the install process. Step 7: Align your putter grip. Remove the putter from the vice and visually make adjustments to your new putter grip to assure that your grip is aligned properly. You will have approximately 5-10 minutes to adjust the grip to make sure that it is properly aligned. Expert Tip: Use a door jam to squarely brace the putter face while you adjust your putter grip. Step 8: Let the new grip set. Allow the grip to dry for at least 15-20 minutes before use. Step 9: Don't brag. Be cautious, if you proceed to brag about your new found skills to your friends, you may become their go to guy for grip installation. http://www.aceofclubsgolfco.com/blogs/news/14736493-leather-putter-grip-installation-care-part-1
  21. It was 9Ëš this morning....just a touch too cold even for us Northerners to go golfing. I figured I'd mess around in the shop and see if I couldn't ruin a few wedges. I've been wanting to try the Miura K-grind, but really didn't want to pay for it I like the way they turned out and am looking forward to trying them on the course if it warms up this weekend to anything above freezing. All I can say is I'm really glad I practiced on a few junk wedges first. I'm a pretty handy type guy.....even still.......my first couple attempts were less than stellar! First attempt....completely trashed the junk wedge... Second attempt...getting better but still ugly.... Final attempt looks decent enough...
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