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Found 10 results

  1. Great forum, great community, and I am sure one of the knowledgeable members has come across this question before (or, can point me in the right direction). I have used the search bar some to pin point this topic to some effect, but haven't come across the answer that satisfies my curiosity. I already know and understand a dynamic fitting and static fitting work best for shaft fitting and it's hard to beat a good (and patient) fitter. My question pertains to online iron shaft fitting/recommendations from most of the shaft manufacturers and/or online fitting services: How relevant is a question regarding iron distance (say, 6i carry) when your current 6i loft and the set you are interested in purchasing is different? I could ,theoretically, hit my 6i 170 yards using a 26* loft but only hit my buddies 6i 155 yards using 29*...these are just relative numbers to express a questionable point... with all other variables being the same (relatively speaking) but loft. My interpretation of the line of questions for iron shaft recommendation is that it is generating results based on flight and dispersion preferences along with swing speed/power/carry distance. However, if my current 6i is 26* and is allowing me to move the ball 170yds down the fairway, how good is the online fitting tool going to be if the new set I am interested in has a more traditional loft to it? Am I totally off base in this line of thinking? Are the manufacturers shaft recommendations useless? Again, I apologize if this has already been discussed ad nauseam. Happy golfing!
  2. I want to start this by saying that I really like collecting logo golf-balls from courses that I play and sometimes just visit. I find it a complete bummer to play a new course and they don't have a logo ball. In additon to new course play, I also have a goal to play at least 9 - 18 holes in all of the 50 states and of course I collect a logo ball from each course. I've covered 10 states including my home state of Texas. And my evidence that I played is a logo ball. But there are times when a course does not have a ball. Like last week, I was working in South Carolina and played two course around the Greenwood area. I played 18 on one course that I was looking forward too, but once I got there I found out no logo balls. Fortunately the other course (played 9) did have a ball (so SC was covered). But still kept that feeling that I needed a ball from the first course I played there. I also collect balls for the companies I have worked for other special places/companies/projects, etc. Through spin-offs mergers or changing jobs, I have managed to work for 6 companies. Five of which I was able to get a ball for while I worked there, but for one I could not find a ball. I did a lot of searching the web and their company store, but no evidence of a ball was found. This got me thinking, "could I use printable water slide decals that the model builders use, to print my own logos and apply them to a ball". I saw this product once while perusing the model car section of Hobby Lobby. I used to build models cars as a kid and the water slide film is very thin. As you will see it can be done and quite easily. The process starts with some Testors Clear Printable Decal paper and spray decal bonder/set. The decal bonder locks the ink to the decal paper and prevents it from running once wet. If you buy it from Hobby Lobby, make sure you take a 40% off coupon for one item. The paper is on the expensive side at $12 for 6 sheets of 5.5 X 8.5 paper. But you should be able to get a bunch of logos from that material. This is a clear plastic paper that will take printing via an inkjet printer. I am a photographer by hobby and have a nice photo printer that I print photos with. But you can use any good quality inkjet printer. Also there are a number of companies that make printable decal paper (search Amazon or eBay). All you need is a app to allow the capture and editing of a graphic and printing of the graphic. To find a logos, I simply do a google image search for the golf course or company, etc. Many will have some sort of logo that you can download online. However one of my old favorite courses (but now closed) did not have a logo. I did find a picture of a flag from the course so I decided to use that as a logo (assuming that if they ever had a logo, that would likely be it). Fortunately it is a simple 1 color graphic that I was able to recreate in Power Point. But again, you wont need Power Point if you have a digital graphic. Once you have an image its a simple matter of editing the image and shrinking it down to fit on a golf ball. I found from some searches that 3/4" - 1" is a good size for a ball logo. So I set all my logo's to be about 7/8" to 1" wide (they looked the best to my eye, but do test prints, as one size does not work for all logos). I highly suggest that you print them out on plain paper first. Cut them out and test fit them to the ball. If too small, make it larger and test print again. If too big, then make them smaller and repeat until you get them to the size you want. But don't waste your decal paper trying to get the sizing correct, test on plain paper first and in black and white to save ink. To print them I used MS Word and built a page 5.5" wide by 8.5" long, the same size as the decal paper (but others sell it in 8 1/2" X 11") and Word is very easy to use. Once I had my image in MS Word, it was a simple matter of sending the print to the printer. I used photo paper settings with the highest quality. And print out 2-3 images at a time for each logo, as you might mess up the first decal and have to start over. Having extras means all you have to do is cut out another. Once printed, I let the print dry. For some printers this can be a few minutes (like mine) or many hours for others. In order to save on the paper, I cut the printed strip off. Then sprayed the cut off with a couple of light coats of the decal bonder. You don't want to spray the entire blank page as I assume you cant print on it again once sprayed (this was not tested by me so I don't know if its true). I found that I can print on the cutoff remainder just fine down to about 4 inches long. The bonder didn't seem to need more that 30 minutes to dry, but there were not instructions on the spray can or the paper package. I waited 30 min to 1 hour each between coats. Once the bonder was dry, I cut out the decals and trimmed them close to the edge. This is not critical since the balls I used were white and any un-printed edge did not show (note, use white balls as you can't print white on most consumer printers and if your logo has a white background it will have to show through the clear). Also use some cheap balls, unless you have money to burn I wouldn't do these on ProV1's. I had a bunch of Callaway and Nike balls that I got free that I don't play, (stuff I hit at the range sometimes). Finally take small bowl of warm water and let the decal soak to loosen the backing paper. While soaking I take this time to go wash my hands and the ball with some warm water and hand soap to remove any oils. I dried my hands but left the ball wet. This makes it easy to move the water slide decals around. At this point I gently slide the decal off the backing on to the ball, not using my hands on the sticky side. You can move the decal around and make sure its in the correct position. Then gently pat dry with a dry paper towel. Once pressed in, I take a q-tip (cotton swab) and roll over the surface to get any excess water out and press in the dimples to push out water as well, then let them dry over night. The final step is to spray with a light misting of decal bonder to seal the edges (not sure this is called for, but made me feel better anyway). Below are the first 4 balls I did are from courses I have played and the other is one is of a company where I worked. Looking at the balls its hard to tell that they are decals. But you can feel them slightly with your hands.
  3. Wanted to share my golf ball rack that I actually built late last year. I have to say that I am proud of it. Had been eyeing making a new rack for my logo golf ball collection. Had a store bought rack that held 72 balls, but it was quite ugly IMO. I really liked this one and decided to copy it: https://www.woodshopi...golf-ball-rack/ Mine is made from cherry, one of my favorite woods to work with. The example looks like cherry as well. I'm a wood worker and love building things and tinkering, especially if its for golf its a bonus for me. In either case, I'm really proud of what I did. I do have a PDF of the sketch. PM me and I can email if you like. This rack is 6 X 15 (90 balls). But I have another sketch for a 6 X 9 design (54 balls) for my 50 states project. I'll wait till it cools off in Houston before I get back in the garage to start building. My 50 states project is a plan to play at least 9 holes in each of the 50 states. I'll have 10 by end of this year. Just did two 9's in Salt Lake City. This is the finished piece in the raw before filling and final sanding. And then a couple of the finished rack.
  4. Hello, For some reason my 9, PW, W are going short. I expect 10-15 yard increments. What I getting is a much shorter distance. The gap is 20-30 yards. Checked the loft on all the clubs and they are right on the correct loft. I am playing Titleist AP 1. I changed the shaft to the Fiber/Steel shafts. Recently, after considering the weight difference between Kuro Kage shafts and the Fiber/Steel shafts. So I increased the head weight two swing weights on the 9, pw, and w. The yardage increased. Still not up to my Pings. Any suggestions or tip. I am ready to hear them. If all else fails, I bought a new bag to make the irons easier to sell.
  5. Hey guys. I am wondering what the process you use to get out the nicks and dents and scratches in golf clubs you work on? If using a bench grinder, what wheels/compounds do you use and in what order if using several? Thanks!
  6. Im sure that many of you who have went to see your club pro, or went for a lesson have been told the you "need new grips". Its very convenient that the pros are at hand to do it for you. Recently I was amazed when a friend told me he was being charged £20 to get his driver regripped, and that was standard!!! I thought this was steep to change a grip. I went onto eBay, had a hunt and bought 20 Golf Pride Multi Compound Grips for £3 each, plus got to choose what colours I wanted. Then I bought myself some double sided tape and gave changing my grips a go. The toughest thing has to be taking the old grip off, but that was easy enough. I think it took me the guts of 10 minutes to change the grip and left it to dry for a couple of hours. I don't get why anyone would pay £20!!! Here is how I did it, don't know if anyone has any better suggestion: 1. Remove Grip with a Stanley knife SAFELY!!! 2. Wrap the double sided tape around the shaft. 3. Put a tee in the end of the grip and put a small amount of petrol in the grip, rinse around for a second and pour out the excess. (This softens the grip up so that it can be applied easily.) 4. Slide the grip onto the shaft. 5. Twist the grip until it is in line. 6. Leave to dry for several hours. I think everyone should give this a shot. Saves a lot of money if you are redoing all your irons. On another note, I love the Golf pride multi compound grips but does anyone think there are better grips out there. Always like to test out new things.
  7. I loved the Vapor look and I went to purchase them last year and I was not super impressed, sorry Nike. So this year I did something to upgrade my clubs, for cheap!! First I removed my club heads. I had them all cleaned up and removed rust and paint. I also cleaned my VR Black Oxide wedge. I added Bright Green Grips. I added Bright Green Ferrules with 2 white stripes. (look like tube socks to me) I torch finished my wedge. I blued the split cavity (3-6 iron). Then I paint filled the Nike Swoosh to match the Bright Green. Then white paint fill for a clean look (my opinion). Feels like a brand new set of clubs to me and they play great!! Thanks for reading!
  8. So I've seen some neat looking stamps and paint fills on this site in the small amount of time I've been here but I'm a hopeless golf addict and love seeing all the different ways people make a club or even a whole set uniquely theirs and I know I'm not the only one. So I started this topic for people to proudly display their masterpieces, in hopes that everyone can enjoy these awesome projects and maybe even inspire others to put a personal flair to their gear. So have fun and may your drives find the short grass!
  9. Recently I've been toying around with making myself a yardage booklet of my home course. I most recently tried the 3UP method. It's a good one but I just lost interest in using Google Earth and the sketch program it requires. I'm just not that techie anymore. So, I'm going back to the old school method of sketching up my own. Well sort of…. I ordered a couple of Yardage Marker™ flip booklets to give myself a little guidance and head start. The booklets are spiral bound and the pages are a nice heavy card stock paper. On the front cover it says, A Do-It-Yourself Yardage Book for the Competitive Golfer. Inside the front cover is a description of how to use the book along with common symbols and two example holes of what you'll want to emulate. I think what I'll do initially is go out on the course alone in the late evenings and walk a few holes at a time. I have a measuring wheel to push as well as a laser GPS. I'll take along some other type of tablet and make some sketches as I go. Later I'll re-sketch what I drew in my Yardage Book. I think the whole exercise will be interesting and a good learning process. Over time I can refine my book as needs arise. Does anyone else use a yardage book? Have you made your own?
  10. It was 9Ëš this morning....just a touch too cold even for us Northerners to go golfing. I figured I'd mess around in the shop and see if I couldn't ruin a few wedges. I've been wanting to try the Miura K-grind, but really didn't want to pay for it I like the way they turned out and am looking forward to trying them on the course if it warms up this weekend to anything above freezing. All I can say is I'm really glad I practiced on a few junk wedges first. I'm a pretty handy type guy.....even still.......my first couple attempts were less than stellar! First attempt....completely trashed the junk wedge... Second attempt...getting better but still ugly.... Final attempt looks decent enough...
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