Dynacraft Prophet MB Forged Irons

[JAGolfore]

Over the next few days and weeks I will be reviewing the Dynacraft Prophet MB Forged Irons from Hireko Golf.  I got them over the weekend and will be installing FST 115g X shafts and Lamkin REL 3Gen grips.  I have attached photos of the clubs and they look great so far.  I will be reviewing them on everything from the specs to how they fell and will do so for the other components involved.  I will also be sending them to the USGA for groove testing.  If you have any questions please feel free to ask them and stay tuned.

[PlaidJacket]

I have two questions.

Is the large A (or symbol) stamped on the back of the head intended to look jagged or is that a poor stamp?

Why submit them to USGA? Do you suspect they are non-conforming? I'm also wondering why you'd build them and then send to USGA. Why not just the heads?

[JAGolfore]

I have two questions.

Is the large A (or symbol) stamped on the back of the head intended to look jagged or is that a poor stamp?

Why submit them to USGA? Do you suspect they are non-conforming? I'm also wondering why you'd build them and then send to USGA. Why not just the heads?

PlaidJacket, the logos are all milled in. I believe the logo you are asking about is the Dynacraft "D". And I would submit them because I would like to try and qualify for some USGA events and Hireko does not submit them for testing so they are not on the conforming list. They are designed to conform but without them being on the list I can't say for sure. I will try and take some better photos.

[jbil8802]

Does the USGA keep stuff that gets sent in?

[JAGolfore]

More photos

[Aotearoa_Brad]

I always thought the Dynacraft logo was a drawing compass... am I wrong? [it'd be the second time since 2006 ]

[PlaidJacket]

PlaidJacket, the logos are all milled in. I believe the logo you are asking about is the Dynacraft "D". And I would submit them because I would like to try and qualify for some USGA events and Hireko does not submit them for testing so they are not on the conforming list. They are designed to conform but without them being on the list I can't say for sure. I will try and take some better photos.

I see now. Those close up photos are good. Thanks. It's funny that you posted these irons. Just a few days ago I had visited Hireko's website and looked at those very irons. I'm not in the market but thought they were good looking. And the photos you posted show that they are even better looking. Thanks for the info and good luck on your qualifying.

[furu]

Looking forward to reading this. I've had the Prophet Tour Forged. Saw these, and they're on my list of things I need to try soon.

[Blade]

Interesting. They say MB but they look more CB to me.

[JAGolfore]

Does the USGA keep stuff that gets sent in?

No they do not. You have to pay shipping both ways.

 

I'll have the weights of all the heads, shafts & grips according to spec tomorrow. If there are any other angles you want to see of the heads let me know and I'll try and make it happen.

[Aotearoa_Brad]

They're really good looking irons - I'll be interested to follow this one. Also interested in some more info on that driver you're bagging...

[JAGolfore]

The SMT driver I am playing is an early 2000 model.  I believe its from around 2003-2004.  They were big in long drive back then, and they are very nice heads.  I got mine off of a component website and they still have them.  It is a very low launch low spin head. 

[JAGolfore]

Ok  guys, I weighed all of the heads, shafts & grips last night.  The results are below.  The number on the left is the spec, the number on the right is what I got.

 

   Specs    Actual

4.  249g      250g

5.  256g      257g

6.  263g      265g

7.  270g      272g

8.  277g      279g

9.  284g      285g

P.  291g      293g

 

 

Shafts (FST 115g)  All shafts were between 114g and 116g

 

Grips (Lamkin REL 3 Gen Orange) All grips were 53g.

 

Everything was well with in spec.  I found it funny all my readings were a little high so I tested my scale with a 5 g weight and then tested everything again.  Got the same numbers.  Were they exact, no, was there any one piece that was way off, no.  Over all they fall with in tolerance.  This weekend will be the loft lie testing.  Sorry for the long delay, but work gets in the way.  If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

 

 

[Max F]

These are REALLY NICE looking clubs.  Better than I expected.

 

Could you please post a pic of the face and maybe one form address that shows the top line?

 

Please let us know how they perform once you've hit them.

[JAGolfore]

Max,  Attached are the photos of the face, top line and sole.  Hope they help.  We have about 6 inches of snow still here, but warming up over the weekend so hopefully next week I will be able to hit them.

 

 

[JAGolfore]

Now one of the things I noticed with the shafts was a definite seam or "spine" on the inside of the irons.  I shined a flash light down the shaft and I could see the seam as far as the light would allow.  I have attached a photo, and maybe this is the byproduct of a $6 shaft or is this common with steel shafts?  Also I have used these shafts in other irons and they have played great, just never took the time to look down the butt end. 

[Max F]

Thanks for the additional pics.  Those are some seriously nice looking irons.  Love the sole and top line.  Can't wait to hear how they feel and what kind of forgiveness they offer.

 

Please let us know what your old irons were and how they compare once the snow melts.

[JAGolfore]

Max,  will do and my old irons were Maltby TE Forged.  And I will let you know how they differ.

[BIG STU]

Those old  Black Dynacraft forged blades were great heads. I built a couple of sets of them intending to keep them but sold them for a profit of course. Those FSTs are great shafts I have been hitting the 90 version of them close to a year now they are highly under rated in the "mainstream" of the golf world. I just got my new Hireko catalog a few weeks ago and saw those heads that you got and if I had not gotten new clubs last year I would have ordered them. Smart Idea on getting them USGA tested if you plan to use them in "sanctioned" events. Some of these smaller component companies cannot afford to pay the USGA to submit clubs for testing. Eric at Infiniti Golf explained that to me last year what all they have to go through as a manufacturer on that

[furu]

Have you played well with those shafts before? No need to start worrying about it now

[JAGolfore]

Yeah I have played well with those shafts, it was just something that caught my eye. 

[JAGolfore]

Ok, here are the loft/lie results. I had some time this afternoon and got this done. I am waiting on the ferrules to come in from Cell Parts and they should be here Saturday.

 

Loft Std. Loft Actual

4. 24* 24.5*

5. 27* 26.5*

6. 30* 29.5*

7. 34* 35*

8. 38* 39*

9. 42* 43*

P. 46* 47*

 

Lie Std. Lie Actual

4. 60.5* 59*

5. 61* 60*

6. 61.5* 62*

7. 62* 62*

8. 62.5* 62.5*

9. 63* 64*

P. 63.5* 63*

 

I was very pleased with the results. There is always some adjusting that you need to do, but it is very nice to see everything well with in spec. I will continue to post updates. Hopefully I will get them built this weekend and get a chance to hit them.

[Hula Rock]

Interesting. They say MB but they look more CB to me.

 

I thought the same thing.....

[JAGolfore]

I agree about the MB/CB topic with these irons.  And I do not know why they are MB's.  The only reason I can think of is that the cavity is 100% milled according to Hireko, thus MB (milled back).  And they offer a cast set that is a CB.

[JAGolfore]

Got the ferrules in yesterday. Will be building them tonight and tomorrow. Hopefully will get to try them out this week

[Aotearoa_Brad]

They look fantastic ja! Love those ferrules!

[JAGolfore]

Thanks Brad,  I got them from Cell Parts.  They are very nice and they (Cell Parts) always does a good job. 

[JAGolfore]

Here they are, need trimmed and grips but so far they are coming together well.

[PlaidJacket]

Your irons are shaping up beautifully. I think it's cool when guys like you take the initiative and have the skill to assemble your own clubs. I don't think that's something I could undertake with good results.

Can you share how you went about fitting yourself? For me I wouldn't have any way to select a proper shaft or get the weighting correct. Lie angle, etc.How did you spine align your shafts? I know when I got my new clubs and was fit a while back there was quite a process to go through. Also, what is your cost per club? Thanks.

[JAGolfore]

PlaidJacket,  I will try and answer your questions the best I can.  Fitting myself is an ever evolving process.  I am always trying new clubs and shafts and seeing how well they work.  I was an assistant pro for 3 years from 2006-2008 (market crash) and that let me to get into club building.  One of the club pro's I worked for had a great set up and was always working on members clubs.  I got into it and started working along side of him.  It really became addicting.  As for fitting myself I was fit in 2008 by the Callaway tour van and have kept the spec sheet from that as a base line.  Each year I get older I look at my numbers at a local indoor shop and see how they compare.  So far no major changes have been made other than a slightly lighter shaft.

 

Selecting the proper shaft is all about finding what you like.  I have spent hours looking over shaft specs and reviews online and knowing what I like, it makes it easier to find a shaft that will feel good.  Now everyone will feel a shaft differently, and I know what I want from a shaft.  (This being said you can get a lot of good shafts that are a few years old for a lot less than the new shafts)

 

I do not spine my shafts and I never will.  I see no improvement in this and I feel it is an unnecessary cost. 

 

Lie angle and loft I can adjust in my garage.  I have a golfsmith loft/lie machine and it works great for bending my irons or friends that need checked.  With these irons  I will be going to the range this weekend with my lie board and electric tape and tape for the face to check the lie angles.  By placing the electric tape on the sole of the club and hitting off the lie board you can tell how to adjust the lie. 

 

My cost per clubs is around $60 (Head $40, shaft $6, grip $6 & shipping).  So for a set of 7 @ $60 per club $420 for a new set of forged irons.  Now cost goes up if you want True Temper Shafts or KBS, but its all in what you want to spend and what you "feel" you get out of those irons. 

 

I hope that this helps and if you need more detail anywhere just let me know.