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Driving iron


superduper

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I don't know if they exist in the retail world but there are enough talented machinists in the golf world that could probably make you one

Driver ---- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha  Speeder 565 R flex- 5W TM V-Steel Fubuki 60r--- 7W TM V-Steel UST Pro Force Gold 65R----- 9 W TM V Steel TM MAS stiff---- Irons 2015 TM TP CB Steel Fiber 95 R--- GW Callaway Mack Daddy 2 52* shaft unknown junk pile refugee. SW Callaway PM Grind 56*  Modified sole grind--- KBS Tour Wedge-- LW Vokey 58* SM5 L grind--- Putter Ping B90I Broom Stick 

 

 

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Titanium alone would make for a rather weak driving iron. It needs a bit more mass (or volume) to make use of any of it's inertia. With this in mind, some irons exist with titanium either the main head material or a supplementary weight to redistribute the mass around the head to create a kind of perimeter weighting for more forgiveness. 

If you specifically have JDM on your radar, then PRGR make the "Egg" which is a strange looking beast which works quite well:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/prgr-2013-egg-i-ut-utility-club

 

Alternatively if you fancy yourself as a bit of a player, then Yonex make a titanium core blade which looks like sex on a stick:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/yonex-2014-titanium-hybrid-mb-forged-iron-5-pw-6pc-set

 

..but the lowest loft version is a 21 degree 3-iron. Of course the older Mizuno MP-59 does this sort of trick too.

 

Like I said titanium doesn't really lend itself that well to iron/hybrid or even some fairway wood designs simply because of the weight - or lack of it. Titanium really only works with oversized (think maximum legal limit of 460cc) in driver head designs where weight is needed to be distributed over a much larger area (but still supplemented by tungsten weights often).

 

If I were looking for a driving iron from a JDM stable, then I'd probably opt for the A-Grind:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/blog/a-grind-golf-japan/

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  • 3 weeks later...

Titanium alone would make for a rather weak driving iron. It needs a bit more mass (or volume) to make use of any of it's inertia. With this in mind, some irons exist with titanium either the main head material or a supplementary weight to redistribute the mass around the head to create a kind of perimeter weighting for more forgiveness. 

If you specifically have JDM on your radar, then PRGR make the "Egg" which is a strange looking beast which works quite well:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/prgr-2013-egg-i-ut-utility-club

 

Alternatively if you fancy yourself as a bit of a player, then Yonex make a titanium core blade which looks like sex on a stick:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/yonex-2014-titanium-hybrid-mb-forged-iron-5-pw-6pc-set

 

..but the lowest loft version is a 21 degree 3-iron. Of course the older Mizuno MP-59 does this sort of trick too.

 

Like I said titanium doesn't really lend itself that well to iron/hybrid or even some fairway wood designs simply because of the weight - or lack of it. Titanium really only works with oversized (think maximum legal limit of 460cc) in driver head designs where weight is needed to be distributed over a much larger area (but still supplemented by tungsten weights often).

 

If I were looking for a driving iron from a JDM stable, then I'd probably opt for the A-Grind:

http://www.tourspecgolf.com/blog/a-grind-golf-japan/

 

The titanium in a driving iron that I'm looking for is in the face material. Not just the inserts like in MP-59 or the tungsten weighting.  

 

I'm looking for extra distance for my driving iron since I don't game a 3 wood.  Can you suggest anything that can improve my distance in my driving iron?

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Other than less loft, longer shafts and swinging it faster? Not really.

Titanium in itself (as explained) isn't the solution to your perceived problem - even with face inserts.

Titanium is primarily used to get weight away from the face (which would otherwise be steel) so the perimeter weighting can be increased to provide greater MOI. The face can be thin enough to "flex" on impact to give a CoR effect, but the results on distance are pretty negligible. 

Most if not all previous designs of driving irons with any inherent titanium use have largely been dropped in favour of much more efficient and reliable hybrid and fairway wood designs these days - hence you will struggle to find something to fit your criteria. 

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Other than less loft, longer shafts and swinging it faster? Not really.

Titanium in itself (as explained) isn't the solution to your perceived problem - even with face inserts.

Titanium is primarily used to get weight away from the face (which would otherwise be steel) so the perimeter weighting can be increased to provide greater MOI. The face can be thin enough to "flex" on impact to give a CoR effect, but the results on distance are pretty negligible. 

Most if not all previous designs of driving irons with any inherent titanium use have largely been dropped in favour of much more efficient and reliable hybrid and fairway wood designs these days - hence you will struggle to find something to fit your criteria. 

 

I have thought about that... since the iron face is thick... the trampolin effect on the ball is minimal....  so according to you, using titanium on irons is useless?

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I have thought about that... since the iron face is thick... the trampolin effect on the ball is minimal....  so according to you, using titanium on irons is useless?

 

Judging by the pile of driving irons in the bargain basement bin or trying to be sold on shopping channel tv - pretty much. If you want to have a yardstick of what works and what doesn't in terms of tech or performance, then a glance into the bags of those who play for a living is usually a guide to what is relevant. If titanium in irons really had any credibility, then that's where you would find it.

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Judging by the pile of driving irons in the bargain basement bin or trying to be sold on shopping channel tv - pretty much. If you want to have a yardstick of what works and what doesn't in terms of tech or performance, then a glance into the bags of those who play for a living is usually a guide to what is relevant. If titanium in irons really had any credibility, then that's where you would find it.

 

people who play golf for a living are very good golfers. and I'm not...  you hand them the "Acer XK driver" and they will hit it 300 yards.....

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Another way of looking at it is that the rest of the golfing world is wrong and driving irons are a lot easier to hit for anybody (including pros) than hybrids and they should all be made from titanium.

Or alternatively, you may have to commission someone to build your coveted titanium driving iron to prove a point. Either way, I think you may be wasting your valuable time. Good luck in your search.

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Tommy Armour made Ti irons like 20 years ago and they were large, took shovel to a whole new level. Not sure if there was any benefit to these but as said above you need a lot more mass to gain a benefit.

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Another way of looking at it is that the rest of the golfing world is wrong and driving irons are a lot easier to hit for anybody (including pros) than hybrids and they should all be made from titanium.

Or alternatively, you may have to commission someone to build your coveted titanium driving iron to prove a point. Either way, I think you may be wasting your valuable time. Good luck in your search.

 

Well driving irons are "easier" to hit than a traditional 2 iron (I have a Snake eyes 2 iron).  I don't know what you call the MP-H4.  Is it a driving iron?  Is it a hybrid?   But I can hit it as straight as a 7 iron.  And I don't play golf as often as the people who make a living playing golf.  I call myself lucky if I can play once a week.  Don't have the time and resource to play that often. 

 

I slice with my driver.  But my driving iron is as straight as an indian arrow.  When my swing is off, I pick up my driving iron and hit it as far as my 5 wood (200 yards).   Sometimes I want something that is a bit longer maybe about 15 yards longer. 

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  • 1 year later...

Adams made a very iron-like hybrid using titanium a few years back...

WITB: 

Adams 9064LS 9.5* (until I cracked the face)

Adams Super LS 17*

Adams XTD Ti 23*

Wilson Staff Ci7 4-PW

Adams wedges: 52/7 56/13 60/7

Wilson Staff Infinite Southside putter/Odyssey DualForce 660 putter

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How about these?

 

They aren't titanium but they look pretty solid.

 

 

https://www.bombtechgolf.com/grenade-driving-iron-package-pre-order/

Driver: image.png.6ba1c8a254ad57aa05e527b74c2e04ba.png0311 XF 10.5* w/Project X Cypher 40 gram Senior shaft or 0811 XF 12* w/Evenflo Riptide CB Senior shaft

Fairways:  image.png.80321f01fc46450b6f428c7daf7b3471.png0211 5W & 7W w/ Evenflo Riptide CB  regular shaft and Tour Edge E521 9W w/Fubuki HD50 regular shaft

Hybrid: None in bag at the moment

IronsTitleist T300 5-PW w/Fubuki MV Senior graphite shafts w/Golf Pride Tour

Wedges: Edison forged 49*, 53* and 57* wedges with KB PGI Senior shafts(80 grm).

Putter: 33” Evnroll ER6R or  ER2 or Bellum Winmore Model 707,   or Nike Method Core Drone  w/Evnroll Gravity Grip

Bag: Vice cart bag(Black/Lime). 

Ball: Snell MTB Prime X, Maxfli Tour/S/X CG, Titleist Pro V1x or Titleist TruFeel

Using Shot Scope X5 and Pinned Rangefinder

 

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  • 2 months later...

There are some awesome driving irons on the market right now and z u45 irons are going for a good price.

You can get the same distance out of the current irons of the market by changing the lofts/shafts to correct the yardage gap you're looking to fill. 

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

It's a bit dated, and not JDM or Ti, but I use a callaway x utility proto 18* for tighter desert local courses. Very tough metal and straight off the tee.

 

 

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WITB 2021
Driver: Cleveland Launcher HB Turbo 9* w/ C.Kua Stiff

FW: Cleveland Launcher HB Turbo 15* w/ C.Kua Stiff

HY: Cleveland Launcher Halo 19* w/ C.Kua Stiff 

Irons: Titleist 716 AP1 4-PW w/ KBS 90 Stiff

Wedges: Vokey SM8 50*, 54*, & 60^

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Laguna 2 OR OG Futura

Ball: :titelist-small: ProV1/V1x OR Chrome Soft TT

Bag: Sun Mountain 2019 4.5 14way carry

Clothes: Nike OR Under Armour 

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  • 6 months later...

Anybody know if it's worth it to go with the srixon z u65 over the u45? I'm looking to add the 20* to my bag.

Both are good. The only real difference is the feel. The U65 has a little more consistent feel across the face. The U45 is just a little harsher when you mis hit it.

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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I've got a Mizuno Fli-Hi, circa 2005,  and a ludicrously overpriced Epon.

 

They're both good.

 

An old PRGR 200i is also good.  Dunlop once made a more reasonably priced version of it but i can't remember the name..

 

The old Ping Eye 2  1-iron was also good off the tee if the stock shaft wasn't too "tip-stiff" for you to elevate the ball.

.

The similar Wilson 1200GE  1-iron was another good club off the tee.

 

 

 

 

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