Jump to content

Opinions on who should / should not play blades?


Recommended Posts

Our Sponsors

I'm currently playing the Nike VR Split Cavity 4-PW w/ an Adams A7 19* hybrid. From '04-'09 (until they were stolen) I played Cleveland TA2 6-PW and TA7 Tour 3-5. Currently I play to a 4 handicap and have been as low as a +1. My game has always been focused around the greens and I believe most amateurs, high or low handicap should do the same. Is "cavity or muscle back?" the right question? How about, where in my set should I have muscle back blades and where should I have cavity backs? I approach my set makeup like this: My long game sets up my short game, I need loft, soft, and straight in my long game. I go with a 19* hybrid and a G15 17* fairway. VR Split is forgiving enough 4-PW and precise enough in the short irons for me. I am seriously considering the new VR Pro Combo set in order to have more shot options in my short game. I guess what I am saying is your set makeup should play to your strengths and minimize your weaknesses. My long game is average at best so I get what I can play and make sure I have all the tools I need in the short game dividers of my bag.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

good topic guys - lemme throw my $.02 into it -

 

IMO one would be doing themselves a disservice by not playing a game improvement iron - why would you want to make the game tougher? for tradition and ego? fine so be it - i can understand that reason.

 

After growing out of my junior set of wilson 1200's (those rocked), my first real set of irons were my head pro's hand me down of golden ram tour grinds (model 792 stamped on the toe) with brunswick 7.5FM shafts 1i-9, PW, SW. they were telephone poles to me, but i loved them because i could wear out a quarter sized stamp in the face.

 

From that set i graduated to a set of Zevo molybdenum set of blades, which again i loved, but this time i had shafts that fit me.

 

next set were KZG blades again with fitted shafts.

 

Point being each one of these sets gradually became easier for me to hit cause of better fitting of the shafts.

 

then i switched to my current set of taylormade R7 TP - they are still a smaller face, but now have the harder face and forgiving cavity and they are just ridiculously long and far easier to hit than all three of my previous set.

 

I always had in the back of my mind to learn how to play with blades and then switch over to cavity backs eventually sometime. Would i go back to blades at this time? sure, but they would have to outperform what i am currently playing as far as distance goes - so that is an issue of high priority for me.

 

so to summarize, if your #1 concern is your performance, go with the best fitted club for you thats available on the market.

 

as long as your properly fitted, i put much more stock and priority into the shaft fitting than the head. head is important but third at best in the process after shaft and lie angle.

 

plus with todays shafts, puring, spining, and everything else available to do to the shaft, even the smallest cog blade is far easier to hit than what was available just 20 years ago.

 

:cobra-small: Staffer

:Arccos: Staffer

 

www.gdxslab.com

www.MANAVIANGolf.com

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys;

 

I can see 2 basic points being made:

 

1) Why make golf any harder than it needs to be?

2) GI irons may slow your progress as a golfer (mask poor shots to an extent, allow you to 'get away' with a shot that isn't pure).

 

Further to my last post (in which I was seeking some advice on the pros and cons of using blades purely for practice) I have played on the course a bit with these and had a good session at the driving range using them.

 

On the course obviously there isnt the same opportunity to rehit a poor shot. I found however that I didnt really ever want to. On a poor shot with the blades I was achieving approximately 75% distance with these; as opposed to maybe 85-90% distance with a similarly poor shot with my Game Improver irons. I think this is the point that persons who are advocating the use of GI irons are making - why make things harder for yourself; why play with something that if you are not going to hit pure every single time you will be punished; why open yourself up to a poor round just for the sake of being macho (or for whatever reason you prefer/aspire to play with blades)...

 

On the course and then on the range however I found that the more balls I hit, the better I became at making a pure connection almost every time. Over time I would have no doubts that I could play well with these. When I then picked up the same club from my GI set, I found that I was hitting this really well every time. Hitting a shot 100% perfectly however with the blades does give you so much more satisfaction than creaming one with the GI irons though!

 

My question - the bit of advice I am looking from some of the guys who have played the game for a long time and who have progressed from a hacker to a low handicapper and/or have gone through a number of different sets of clubs - is:

 

Will practicing a bit with a set of blades help my game in the long run (practice with these, use GI irons on more rounds and in competition)?

 

Or will practicing with these - instead of the clubs I intend to use more often - impact my ability to play well with my GI irons?

 

Will using another club cause an issue brought about by switching, or by losing some familarity with the other set?

 

NB the blades are: Titleist Tour Forged 3-PW (I believe that these are a late 90s iron, aimed very much at the better player, purchased on eBay for £80 (British Sterling)); the GI irons are: Titleist AP1 irons 4-PW.

 

As said I would stress that I don't harbour any ambitions of playing exclusively with blades nor would I intend to use these in a competitive round, or on a new course etc. I'm intending to use these only as practice - to improve my game by using a harder to hit club so that when I use the Titleist AP1s my swing is a whole lot better than it would be if I only used them.

 

So far (albeit with only a small amount of play with the blades) I think it is worth sticking with as I found that when I went back to the AP1s I was hitting these better.

 

Similarly - I have two 5 woods that I hit off the fairway. One is a Titleist PT (I must be a sucker for old classic Titleist gear!); other is a Taylormade R9 that I have set at neutral upright. I find that when I hit a few balls with the PT, I will then smash the R9 cleanly and pure every single time. I guess to a degree you could liken the PT to a blade and the R9 to something more forgiving - the PT has very little offset if any, it has a significantly smaller head - it is a beautiful little club though!

 

Thanks for the advice - appreciate your thoughts on this. Am concerned that I'll do my game more harm than good with this approach; hoping on the flip side that it could do wonders for my game!

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

2) GI irons may slow your progress as a golfer (mask poor shots to an extent, allow you to 'get away' with a shot that isn't pure).

 

 

I would quite say your "getting away" with anything with a GI iron. Your just maximizing your opportunity.

 

Further to my last post (in which I was seeking some advice on the pros and cons of using blades purely for practice) I have played on the course a bit with these and had a good session at the driving range using them.

 

On the course obviously there isnt the same opportunity to rehit a poor shot. I found however that I didnt really ever want to. On a poor shot with the blades I was achieving approximately 75% distance with these; as opposed to maybe 85-90% distance with a similarly poor shot with my Game Improver irons. I think this is the point that persons who are advocating the use of GI irons are making - why make things harder for yourself; why play with something that if you are not going to hit pure every single time you will be punished; why open yourself up to a poor round just for the sake of being macho (or for whatever reason you prefer/aspire to play with blades)...

 

The biggest thing you can do to save some of your distance on mishit shots is get your shafts spined/pured. that i have found keeps your mishits in the ball park .

 

Will practicing a bit with a set of blades help my game in the long run (practice with these, use GI irons on more rounds and in competition)?

 

Or will practicing with these - instead of the clubs I intend to use more often - impact my ability to play well with my GI irons?

 

Will using another club cause an issue brought about by switching, or by losing some familarity with the other set?

 

 

your over micromanaging this thing way too much. choose a set that is game improvement enough for you, and put the rest of your intention on the most important part - the shaft

 

:cobra-small: Staffer

:Arccos: Staffer

 

www.gdxslab.com

www.MANAVIANGolf.com

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree wholeheartedly with your point about maximising your opportunity (excuse the non-usage of the letter 'z' in this, I'm from N. Ireland and speak the Queen's English). For a player of my ability I would be nuts to think of using blades competitively. GI clubs make the game easier, which most/all of us could do with...

 

Incidentally I went to a fitting session/lesson with Trackman technology just last Saturday. The need for proper fitting is incredible - even being slightly off with your clubs will mean you're not connecting with the centre of the club face. Quite a tall guy who pushes to the right or slices? Less than average height with a duck hook? Try proper fitting and your woes may be cured!

 

get your shafts spined/pured

 

your over micromanaging this thing way too much. choose a set that is game improvement enough for you, and put the rest of your intention on the most important part - the shaft

 

I agree with you RE: the importance of the shaft. I have been properly fitted for the Titleist AP1s that I play with - loft/lie and shaft length/flex. I'm happy with these clubs.

 

However - you are missing my point/query. I'm purely asking a question specific to PRACTICING with blades. Will these help me become a better golfer, or will they affect my use of the game improvements irons I play with?

 

I don't care how well the blades work for me. I have no intention of playing with these any time it matters. My thought process with using them is to become a better golfer, and carry this into my use of my Titleist AP1s whenever I'm using them.

 

I used to swim competitively at national level. When training I would wear baggy shorts. In competition, when I wore speedos, the lack of drag helped me swim faster. Practice under challenging conditions, to perform at a higher level.

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Had never heard of a tourstriker until your post. It looks to be a serious bit of kit and in principle I can see this being fairly awesome.

 

Notion behind it seems to be: forgetting about the swing, the most important part is connection between clubface and ball.

 

i will perhaps look to see if this is available for me to purchase - as said I live in Ireland.

 

More on blades for practice: took the set of blades to driving range on way home from work. Also took the Titleist PT 5 wood. With the exception of the 3 iron I was hitting these really well. Distance was not great but I was consistently hitting these plum (the blades I have are from early 80s and distance won't compare to what modern clubs can achieve). Even with the 3 iron I hit 2/3 well and was slicing the odd one. 6 iron up I was hitting these as well as I have ever hit a club.

 

Got home, and took the Titleist AP1s to the range. Got a bay, and then noticed that in the bay directly beside me was a friend of my brother-in-law - a scratch golfer. I know this guy to speak to but wouldn't know him that well. Certainly not well enough to be immune to the embarrassment a duff shot with him watching would produce!

 

Hit 100 balls, probably 95 of these as pure as I have ever hit a ball. I have no doubt that this approach will pay big dividends and with my handicap being quite high (I only got this last year) I am looking forward to cleaning up in a few competitions and watching my handicap tumble!

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Its works, I used to carry an old Wilson Sam Snead iron when I went to practice not long after picking up the game. You learn soon learn which swing produces more of a pure contact if you want your fingers to stay attached to your hands.

 

Now days I bag a combo set, blades from 7 iron down, cavity 6 and up

I have a revolving WITB policy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah with blades you know before you look at the ball if you've just fired a dud or not.

 

With game improvement irons you don't always get this and I believe that you could, over time, reduce your game to repeatedly making nearly good strikes, rather than repeatedly striking the ball good with the occasional duff (if you follow what I mean)...

 

I tested the Ping K15 irons a week or so ago. I deliberately hit one or two off the toe. There was absolutely no feedback from the club to tell me that i'd done this and the resulting shot wasn't that bad.

 

For me - the reason I keep coming back to golf, the reason I love playing the game is for the several shots per round when I utterly cream a shot - when I hit one really pure. You don't get that with a super game improvement iron in my book, personally I wouldnt get the same satisfaction. You might hit one close, but, well... meh...

 

It's all sliding scales I guess - while I don't want a super game improvement iron, im happy with a game improvement (think G15 over K15). For the better golfer he'll want something thin up top, something he can fade or draw at will. A part of it is actually liking the look of the club in your hands, and the K15 for me was about the most hideous thing I've ever looked down upon.

 

Other golfers though - it's a results business, it's all about getting the ball in the hole in as few shots as possible.

 

question:

 

you're just off the green and intend to pitch the ball close. instead you catch the ball on its equator and it gets about 2 feet high, smacks off the flag and drops one foot from the hole.

 

Are you:

 

1) hacked off at the poor shot

2) relieved at your good fortune

3) satisfied that no matter how it got there, it got there...

 

for me, it's 1 (maybe with a little bit of 2 thrown in). that's why i want to be able to hit blades, that's why even while i'm still at the stage where game improvement irons are best for me i want something that gives me feel and feedback, and that i can work the ball a bit with...

 

just my pennies worth (£0.01 for you americans!)

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I bone a chip and it goes in. I'm stoked, this game kicks you in the balls often enough, you learn to take what you can get.

 

You don't draw pictures on the scorecard, only write numbers.

 

The days I shoot my best scores aren't normally the days I hit the ball perfect or make every putt. You just don't make as many mistakes.

I have a revolving WITB policy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The 9th at my course is a par 3.

 

Tee is elevated and green is elevated so that these are approximately on the same level. Between is a valley. To get to the front of the green requires a carry from the white tees of about 140 yards. Pin at the back needs 160 yards.

 

Behind the green is a path for trolleys, behind this a house which you would need to carry the ball easily 175-180 yards to reach. Twice now I have connected with my 6 iron and sent the ball over the green, over the path, and into the garden behind.

 

In a competition I'm a bit annoyed about this because all of a sudden I'm 3 off the tee and unsure about which club to hit with. On a casual round I'm laughing and secretly pretty happy that I bombed the club in such a way!

 

For me, golf is more than a results-driven business. It's more than simply getting the ball into the hole by any means necessary. If it hit the ball well, I'm generally not too hacked off. If I feel I'm not playing great but still put in a respectable card I'm not by any means happy.

 

But everyone's different I guess. And I'm certainly enjoying the challenge of using blades for practice (and if anything it's making me go to the range more)!

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete I will throw my 2 cents in I have always been a blade man for most of the reasons that have already been stated here by myself and others. When I played my best golf I did not worry about technique any I just hit it and got it in the hole any way I could. I have quite a few flaws in my swing. It has been documented that I can break down a medicus club 5 times in one swing no joke I have witnesses. I was never a student of the golf swing untill 5 years ago. I was trying to revamp my game after laying of for a few years. I was attempting to play mini tours again I got hooked in with an instructor/coach and with his best intentions got me too technical. I got to worrying about club position tempo etc and forgot how to hit the ball. It really messed me up. Last year I finally got back to my old way of thinking and playing and i am getting back to where I used to be.To put it in a nutshell I am back playing golf my own way (I call it freewheeling). My swing aint pretty or textbook correct but it is what it is. I am having a lot more fun and definitly scoring better. Remember there are no pictures on a score card. If you can pick up the US Champions Tour in your location check it out you will see a lot of very competitive players that have homemade golf swings. On the US PGA Tour Bubba Watson comes to mind in fact I have adopted his style to my game and It helps me. Good luck in your endevors I hope maybe I could be some help to you

Driver Homna  G1- X Stock Homna Regular shaft

4 wood Adams Tight Lies 

5 wood Adams Tight Lies 

24* Hybrid Adams A 10-OS Pro Launch Red R

Irons 5 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW- Wilson Staff JP II 56* shaft unknown

Putter 1997 Santa Fe rusty as heck

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Update:

 

I'm definitely seeing worth in practicing with the blades. They aren't even close to be long clubs - a good 9 iron will just clear 100 yards while my JPX-800 9 iron will easily give me 120 yards. They are however early 80s clubs...

 

While not long though I'm finding that I am able to hit these extremely accurately and to the same distance every time, apart from the odd poor connection.

 

When I then play with the Mizunos, I am making a really good contact and am hitting the ball straight at the pin.

 

Using the blades I'm also learning how to draw the ball and control a fade - and am able to then replicate this with the Mizunos - albeit not as much control doing this with the much more forgiving club.

 

I was discussing this with the guy in the pro-shop from whom I purchased the Mizunos. He fully agreed with the notion and suggested that when he was in his teens using blades and messing about on the course - trying to hit crazy draws and fades etc made him a much better player.

 

My view seems to be that for the golfer who wants to continue improving and plays the game without worrying too much about the score on their card - blades or thinner clubs are the way to go. If however you're after forgiveness and it's all about the number on the card - then go forgiving.

Driver: Mizuno JPX-800 10.5 degree; stiff shaft; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

3 Wood: Taylormade R9, stiff shaft (set to NU)

Hybrid: Ping G15 17 degree; stiff graphite shaft

Irons: Mizuno JPX-800; Project X 5.5; Golf Pride Multi-Compound

Wedges: Cleveland CG12 52 (smoked finish), 56 (oilcan finish) & 60 degree (chrome finish)

Putter: Odyssey White Ice No. 1; Scotty Cameron Studio Design No. 5

 

I also play a set of Titleist 1980s Tour Forged Irons with regular shaft. These are excellent for practice, as is the Titliest PT 20 degree 5 wood that accompanies them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete I think you have got it!! You have came around to the old school blade hitting way of thinking. From experience I think you will enjoy the game more. Good Luck in your endevors

Driver Homna  G1- X Stock Homna Regular shaft

4 wood Adams Tight Lies 

5 wood Adams Tight Lies 

24* Hybrid Adams A 10-OS Pro Launch Red R

Irons 5 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW- Wilson Staff JP II 56* shaft unknown

Putter 1997 Santa Fe rusty as heck

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 8 months later...

This is an old topic but I wiil chime in with my opinion and experiences. In 2004, it started playing again more regularly. I guess I would have been a 24+ handicap if I would not have been too embarrassed to turn in a card. I bought a brand new set of GI clubs to replace my Ping Eye 2's. Another topic but I have since learned that there is no such thing as a better club than Ping Eye 2's. After a year of regular play there was no real difference in my handicap. I was a 22+. I could break 100 but that was it. I was told that if I wanted to get better I needed different clubs. So I got a set of Ben Hogan FTX's in 2006. Practiced more and played more and got the handicap down to 10. I 2008 bought Titleist AP2's because I wanted them and thought the extra forgiveness would help. 2009 I had worked my way up to a 14 cap. I sold the AP2's and began a years long search for the perfect iron. Staying in the 12-14 cap. I was a very steaky player who could go out one day and shoot in the 70's and 90's the next. I won some local tournaments for proshop credit with some old Titleits 755/s (on good days) :D . He had a set of Callaway TA Proto 7-W and 2009 XForged 3-6, so I swapped.

These blades have taught me something I should have already know. The problem was not with the clubs but my poor swing. When I swung good they feel perfect. Bad swing, well, not so much.

My problems started with my grip, stance, and backswing and got worse. Three months down the road, I am happy to report that I am currently playing to a 6 HCP and improving everyday. I have a new putter coming today, combination of two of my favorite putters, that should help me lower it more, great lag putter make a significantly high number of long putts, but miss way too many from 2-5 feet.

When I first switched from cb's to blades, I kept track. I did not hit any more GIR's with the GI clubs than I did with the blades. However, when I hit a good blade I had a "real" birdie opportunity rather than a "real" two putt par opportunity.

Now inside 150 yards I expect to be within 10' of the cup. But the key is not just the clubs. But the club does insprire confidence. Also, I have had trouble hitting the ball straight but could work it fine. So now I decided to work the ball on every shot. This has drastically improved my game.

Well, got to go, I have a 1:30 TEE TIME.

 

Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would have to disagree with you on this one. ALL of us golfers know that golf is hard enough let alone having improper equipment. I use the term "improper" because if someone is shooting over 85 they probably should be playing a perimeter weighted iron, just ALOT easier to hit than forged blades. The analogy about having a beautiful wife and being miserable is a great one, however, why make yourself miserable on the golf course when you DO have a choice of which clubs to buy etc...I believe that the person or persons playing forged blades and shooting triple digit scores or near them either 1-has alot of money and therefore it's a status thing for them and their friends or 2-they were sold the wrong set by someone who only wanted to make a sale and did not care about the golfers abilities. Either way, I think it is wrong. I know some people are fascinated by certain "name brands" and will only play them but I'm sure they offer clubs for people with a lower skill level. One last thing, if they played a more forgiving club, they would have more fun, hit better shots, save money(in which they could use for lessons to eventually buy the forged irons) and not play 18 holes in 4.5-5 hours, more enjoyable for all. Just my opinion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have seen this debate on other forums and I always wonder why people care what other people play. I love the look of the TM blades, but I like hitting the ball well too. However, if someone wants to bag blades and shoot 120, go for it. Same thing for a low number person who plays GI. If someone puts up a 73 using G15's and not I15's, I don't think that the score was achieved via equipment.

 

With blades, some people are married to a beautiful spouse who makes them miserable. Even so, they stay with them for whatever reason.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll bite.

 

I play blades 4-PW. I used to be as good as a +2.7 and now play to scratch- play once a week and practice once a week from may 1 until about mid November. The reason why I play blades is not because I am some "incredible ballstriker" or because I like to "work the ball" around the golf course. I play blades because I HAVE A FLAWED GOLF SWING. I have a tendency to sit back and flip at it with an early release so everything I hit goes extremely high and with a lot of spin. This is an absolute nightmare on a windy day. No problem when it's calm but very difficult when it's windy. Blade headshapes produce the lowest trajectory of all. That is why I play them. I would play SGI irons in a heart beat if my ball flight wouldn't be so high with them. The 2nd Asst at my facility plays RAZR irons (not RAZR tours, RAZRs) and he is a VERY good player. Plays to scratch, played collegiate golf, and has qualified for the IL Open numerous times. The reason he plays those is "because you can't miss." As for other people, I couldn't care less when it comes to what you play. It is a game and we are out there to enjoy ourselves. If you are a competitor and receive enjoyment out of shooting low scores but are not that good of a player and are playing blades- well then maybe you should consider something more forgiving, especially in the 4-7 range and you better not have a 3 iron in the bag. However, if you don't care what you shoot and love your blades then who am I to tell you what clubs to use?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...

My view has changed on this. I used to fear playing cavity backs would make my iron game sloppy. But, I've learned that unless you play quite often, the extra forgiveness is needed.

 

Hell, even pros are playing them now. I believe a few of Ping's PGA pros even play the G20's (yes, I said the G-series).

Callaway FT-9 Driver 10.5* Grafalloy Prolaunch Axis Blue

Callaway FT-9 Driver 9.0* Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum

Cobra Baffler Rail F Fairway 15.5* Fujikura Motore

Wilson FYbrid 19* UST Proforce AXIV Core

Cobra Baffler Rail H Hybrid 22* Fujikura Motore

Ping I15 Irons 5-UW AWT

Ping Tour-W 56*,60* DG Spinner

Ping Redwood ZB Putter, WRX Starshot, 35"

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

I currently play the Nike Pro Cavity VR irons, 5-PW,AW and will take those to play 9 and 18 hole rounds. But I mentor for the first tee and when I play the par 3 with the kids, I will shoot with Adams Idea Pro irons. Figure it's the best time to work on my ball striking since I don't get much time at the range. Has made my striking much better. I'm a 17 handicap and have been playing a little less than 3 years (this september will be 3).

Link to post
Share on other sites

ah this very old topic got dig back up... Think the more interesting discussion get spewed up in the more recent topic that RoverRick posted about blades and RBZ irons.

KZG VC-420 ML (10.5* Loft & 0.2* Open Face Angle) @ 44.50" (2" Bore Depth) w/ Graphite Design Tour AD DI-7 Stiff

Tour Edge Exotics CB3 Tour 16.5* @ 42.50" w/ RT Technologies Zeus (85g) Stiff (Tipped 1/2")

Srixon Z U45 19.0* @ 39.75" w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 MB 3-P @ 38.75" - 35.25" (0.25" under), 60.5* - 64.0* (0.5* upright), 22* - 48* (1* weak) w/ KBS Tour-V X-Stiff (Soft Stepped 1x)

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 54-12 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Cleveland 588 RTX 2.0 Black Satin (Blade) 60-10 @ 35.25", 64.00* w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold s400

Lamkin UTX Wrap, Including Grip Core: 1/32 over (top hand), 1/16 over (bottom hand)

Srixon Z-Star

 

Golf Swing & Putting -- Bruce Rearick (Burnt Edges Consulting)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...