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RBZ Stage 2 Shaft Replacement


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After breaking the shaft on my Taylormade RBZ stage 2 three wood I decided to try and replace it myself. I wanted to replace with a like for like shaft, the rocketfuel by Matrix so I looked up the specs and found that it should have a .350" tip so bought a Matrix rocketfuel shaft with 350 tip from Ebay.

I used the hot air gun method to remove the existing shaft from the hosel but it did not come out cleanly. I carefully drilled out the remainder of the shaft and the inside of the hosel looked clean.

Now here is my problem, the new shaft does not fit into the hosel so were the online specs correct that the RBZ stage 2 fairway woods have a 350 tip shaft?

I'm a bit reticent about drilling the hosel out further but if I have to what should the internal diameter of the hosel be?

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Welcome to the forums Andy.  

 

I believe .350 is correct for the RBZ Stage 2, at least it was for my wife's clubs.  First, I am assuming that you got a Rocketfuel wood shaft from ebay and not a Rocketfuel iron shaft, which is .370  If the shaft doesn't fit, make sure the hosel is thoroughly cleaned of epoxy; sometimes it's hard to see.  I use a wire brush made for that purpose, but I have also used sandpaper.  The tip of the shaft needs to be prepped; it should not be shiny and there should be no color.  Use sandpaper to take it off to the top of the hosel.  If the shaft wasn't prepped, that may be enough to fit, but you may have to take a little more.  I wouldn't drill the hosel.

 

The .350 ferrules can be a pain to put on sometimes.  

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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After breaking the shaft on my Taylormade RBZ stage 2 three wood I decided to try and replace it myself. I wanted to replace with a like for like shaft, the rocketfuel by Matrix so I looked up the specs and found that it should have a .350" tip so bought a Matrix rocketfuel shaft with 350 tip from Ebay.

I used the hot air gun method to remove the existing shaft from the hosel but it did not come out cleanly. I carefully drilled out the remainder of the shaft and the inside of the hosel looked clean.

Now here is my problem, the new shaft does not fit into the hosel so were the online specs correct that the RBZ stage 2 fairway woods have a 350 tip shaft?

I'm a bit reticent about drilling the hosel out further but if I have to what should the internal diameter of the hosel be?

 

Just sand the tip of the shaft.  Be carefull not too do it too much.... if you can see the surface is rough then it's good to go.....

 

airgun is no good for removing shaft, takes too long.  Buy a mini torch...

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Always best to avoid using abrasives for prepping tips on graphite shafts. Most pros use a knife blade at right angles to the shaft to gently scrape the paint away. It greatly reduces the risk of damaging any fibres during the process and it's a lot easier to "feel" the amount of of material you're removing. A roughened surface isn't really necessary for graphite tip prep - just paint removal (some are already paint free prepped). Use a gauge to check the OD of the shaft and use gauge to check the internal bore diameter too. 

For the record, RBZ Stage 2 tip size is .350", but it's .335" if you have the Tour version. Check!

http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/TaylorMade.pdf

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Always best to avoid using abrasives for prepping tips on graphite shafts. Most pros use a knife blade at right angles to the shaft to gently scrape the paint away. It greatly reduces the risk of damaging any fibres during the process and it's a lot easier to "feel" the amount of of material you're removing. A roughened surface isn't really necessary for graphite tip prep - just paint removal (some are already paint free prepped). Use a gauge to check the OD of the shaft and use gauge to check the internal bore diameter too. 

For the record, RBZ Stage 2 tip size is .350", but it's .335" if you have the Tour version. Check!

http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/TaylorMade.pdf

 

and btw, do not worry about getting a .335 tip shaft for a .350 hosel.  You can always use a shim. 

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Shims are ones way of fitting an undersized tip into a larger bore and I've never had any issues with them - they work fine.

However, in this case a shim isn't of much use for the OP. In the trade, we always check specs but they too can be notoriously fickle, especially when one model is slightly different from a near identical head. 

The point is, we always check what we have in hand before ordering any spare parts. Therefore the hosel bore is measured before making any decisions on what shaft to fit into it. It's a little easier in the long run believe me. Sure, we can make this fit that and there are a couple of hundred other workarounds and tricks of the trade to get a club assembled, but there are no shortcuts to club building on a professional level - every single component and factor is taken into account before any assembly or repair is undertaken. Simple logic really.

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Always best to avoid using abrasives for prepping tips on graphite shafts. Most pros use a knife blade at right angles to the shaft to gently scrape the paint away. It greatly reduces the risk of damaging any fibres during the process and it's a lot easier to "feel" the amount of of material you're removing. A roughened surface isn't really necessary for graphite tip prep - just paint removal (some are already paint free prepped). Use a gauge to check the OD of the shaft and use gauge to check the internal bore diameter too. 

For the record, RBZ Stage 2 tip size is .350", but it's .335" if you have the Tour version. Check!

http://www.golfworks.com/images/art/TaylorMade.pdf

 

I'm glad you pointed out that the TP version is .335.  The OP didn't say if it was TP or not, so I assumed that since he checked the specs online, he had the right shaft.  I agree that it is a whole lot easier to get the right shaft for the head instead of trying to "make it fit".  Sometimes it has to be done though.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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Shims are ones way of fitting an undersized tip into a larger bore and I've never had any issues with them - they work fine.

However, in this case a shim isn't of much use for the OP. In the trade, we always check specs but they too can be notoriously fickle, especially when one model is slightly different from a near identical head. 

The point is, we always check what we have in hand before ordering any spare parts. Therefore the hosel bore is measured before making any decisions on what shaft to fit into it. It's a little easier in the long run believe me. Sure, we can make this fit that and there are a couple of hundred other workarounds and tricks of the trade to get a club assembled, but there are no shortcuts to club building on a professional level - every single component and factor is taken into account before any assembly or repair is undertaken. Simple logic really.

 

LOL! BTW no shaft even if they are the same model is identical... you check the frequency, especially for those sh1ty Tmag shaft, they might be different.   My point is, rather than spending your money on those .350 sh1ty shafts, you might be better spending your money on an aftermarket shaft that will perform better.  and all aftermarket shaft are .335... they have a better feel anyway for having a smaller diameter.

 

I always prefer .335 wood shaft and .355 steel shaft. 

 

PS: if you want to know the quality of a tmag shaft.  heat the tip for 30 seconds using a mini torch.  And then try to snap the tip.  It will break.   And then find a used aftermarket shaft from Aldila or UST, do the same thing.  See if you can break the tip.

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I'm glad you pointed out that the TP version is .335.  The OP didn't say if it was TP or not, so I assumed that since he checked the specs online, he had the right shaft.  I agree that it is a whole lot easier to get the right shaft for the head instead of trying to "make it fit".  Sometimes it has to be done though.

 

The "make it fit" would have no issues if everything is done properly..... like .355 is for faster swinger.... where did you get this notion?  

 

and yes, professionals tip trim a taper tip shaft if it's needed.... imagine Jamie Sadlowski using a X-Stiff steel shaft on his irons.  It will be too flexible... then it must require a "tipping".

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I would much rather use the right shaft that fits than fiddle with at all.  Just sayin'

 

If .355 is for faster swingers, then why do they make .355 shafts with regular flex?  

 

Sadlowski uses X700 shafts.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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I would much rather use the right shaft that fits than fiddle with at all.  Just sayin'

 

If .355 is for faster swingers, then why do they make .355 shafts with regular flex?  

 

Sadlowski uses X700 shafts.

 

you are the one who said .355 taper tip irons are for faster swinger....: on the 1st post on the page...

 

http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/14868-355-taper-graphite-shafts/page-2

 

Your Question: http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/14868-355-taper-graphite-shafts/

 

And now you are asking that? why do they make .355 shaft with regular flex?  well like I said... Nippon makes soft regular flex steel shaft for slower swinger with 70g of weight.

 

it's like pointless asking question here if you do not want to listen to people who have done this before...  although I'm not a professional, my friend is... and I get access like using a grinder for my wedges.  or tour issues head.... or free unlimited access to a launch monitor. 

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you are the one who said .355 taper tip irons are for faster swinger....: on the 1st post on the page...

 

http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/14868-355-taper-graphite-shafts/page-2

 

Your Question: http://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/14868-355-taper-graphite-shafts/

 

And now you are asking that? why do they make .355 shaft with regular flex?  well like I said... Nippon makes soft regular flex steel shaft for slower swinger with 70g of weight.

 

it's like pointless asking question here if you do not want to listen to people who have done this before...  although I'm not a professional, my friend is... and I get access like using a grinder for my wedges.  or tour issues head.... or free unlimited access to a launch monitor. 

I did not say that .355 irons are for faster swingers.  Read it again.  You inferred that I said that.

 

I said that it seems like taper-tipped shafts seem to be mostly for higher swing speeds.  I made that statement to find out if that is true and why.  I think most people seem to agree, since most OEM .355 shaft makers start at regular flex, not senior flex.  I am looking for less than regular flex .355 taper shafts in a heavier weight.  So, from what I have read, I need a heavy weight graphite regular flex and soft step it.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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I did not say that .355 irons are for faster swingers.  Read it again.  You inferred that I said that.

 

I said that it seems like taper-tipped shafts seem to be mostly for higher swing speeds.  I made that statement to find out if that is true and why.  I think most people seem to agree, since most OEM .355 shaft makers start at regular flex, not senior flex.  I am looking for less than regular flex .355 taper shafts in a heavier weight.  So, from what I have read, I need a heavy weight graphite regular flex and soft step it.

 

yeah I was thinking higher swing speed are the one with 100 mph of more driver swing speed.  But after I read again, I think you are referring to average golfers with 90mph of driver ss?

 

but IMO, if you are concern that your ss is below normal, I would just get a .355 taper tip graphite shaft regular flex in the 70 g range.  And I would go with a japanese made shaft because their regular flex is softer than american flex standard.    If you do a frequency test on Maruman irons, their shaft are so flexible and light even the regular flex.   I see why they are popular among the senior golfers.... 

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LOL! BTW no shaft even if they are the same model is identical... you check the frequency, especially for those sh1ty Tmag shaft, they might be different.   My point is, rather than spending your money on those .350 sh1ty shafts, you might be better spending your money on an aftermarket shaft that will perform better.  and all aftermarket shaft are .335... they have a better feel anyway for having a smaller diameter.

 

I always prefer .335 wood shaft and .355 steel shaft. 

 

PS: if you want to know the quality of a tmag shaft.  heat the tip for 30 seconds using a mini torch.  And then try to snap the tip.  It will break.   And then find a used aftermarket shaft from Aldila or UST, do the same thing.  See if you can break the tip.

 

Not true at all. There a plenty of aftermarket shafts available with .350" tip - I doubt anyone could really discern the difference in feel for the sake of 0.00725" on either side of the shaft wall...

 

And while we also analyse your other pearls of wisdom - remind me to never let you near any of our shaft pulls with a mini torch...

 

But then again, guys like you probably keep us in business.

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