Operation: Beat SLDR

[Kor.A.Door]

So if you take the loft up models of the SLDR, and loft it down, would you be creating a club that would be similar to the Callaway Sub Zero. if the idea of lofting up is to be able to get that particular club in the air, isnt that what Cally is doing, instead of lofting it up they are using swing type along with swing speed to get the ball up in the air. Seems like the same technology, one is marketing the masses, and the other is marketing a specific type.

[Kanoito]

3rd round playing the F6+ AD BB combo.  All I can say at this point is that it's very consistent.  I don't feel like I have the occasional bombs that I did with the SLDR, but at the same time I don't have the occasional snap hooks that I had with it either.

 

Doesn't the sound of the F6+ bother you? For me it was almost as bad as the Nike SQ Sumo2

[hckymeyer]

Doesn't the sound of the F6+ bother you? For me it was almost as bad as the Nike SQ Sumo2

Sound doesn't really affect me.  I'm more concerned with where the ball goes, than how it sounds getting there.

[Undershooter]

Yes...As I stated before, with the 2015 SLDR-C's loft measurement, TM returned  to the more "traditional" loft measurement stamping.  The original charcoal gray and silver SLDR Drivers (from 2013 and 2014) were very much the exception in loft, which is why players had to "loft up" to get the same trajectory they were used to with other drivers that had lower lofts on the soleplate.  I had to loft up to a 12* in the Tour 430, (actual 11.3*), which kind of blew me away, because I never needed a loft that high with any other driver.  Now, with the (gloss black) 2015 SLDR-C Driver I am back to 9.5* which is the driver loft I have used for most of my life, and is usually the best loft for me.

 

Having played all all the SLDR's , I much prefer the 9.5* 2015 SLDR-C with a premium shaft. It gives me consistent long, straight drives with loads of forgiveness and it seems quite effortless...basically a point-and-shoot type of driver.  It doesn't make me work nearly as hard for great drives as the 12* SLDR 430 did, which is why I recommended it.

Lol so you're more happy with a miss-stamped driver head that claims Its lower loft? Whatever floats your boat man but the SLDR-c is just basically a SLDR-s with a worse shaft and a paint job. (Although you have rectified the shaft issue)

[GarrettSmithGolf]

That's up there with a Drop-Kick Stinger.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy mobile app

Hahahahaha I have got to keep those shot descriptions in the bag! I've got a buddy who is prone to the random 3 wood flop shot from the fairway. Most mind-boggling shot I've ever seen!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy mobile app

[bobcat]

Lol so you're more happy with a miss-stamped driver head that claims Its lower loft? Whatever floats your boat man but the SLDR-c is just basically a SLDR-s with a worse shaft and a paint job. (Although you have rectified the shaft issue)

 

You are obviously quite clueless about the SLDR-C Driver.  Fact is, it is a totally different clubhead than the Silver "S" or the original Charcoal Gray SLDR 460cc Driver.  The SLDR-C is a completely different clubhead shape with a lower profile crown and a clubface that is wider from heel-to-toe than the origiinal 460cc or the "S".  If you had actually compared the heads up close you would know this, so you are clearly just spouting off B.S. here.

 

Before criticizing my driver choice you should at least educate yourself.  When you do an up close comparison AND compare performance, the differences in the "C" vs the other SLDR's are quite obvious indeed, and as for the color, the new gloss black color looks GREAT on this new SLDR head, (contrary to what you said above).  

 

BTW, although I don't play it, the TM "57" stock shaft is the same co-engineered stock shaft used in the original SLDR, just slightly different TM SLDR graphics with the Fujikura name removed.  TM moved away from the using the "made for" shaft graphics in 2015 and no longer pays royalties to Fujikura in exchange for using their name on TM shafts.  (You may have noted that the stock shafts for TM's  M-Family use the shaft manufacturer's graphics, so TM's "made for" graphics on driver shafts appear to be history now).  The SLDR-C's stock 57 shaft probably fits a fairly wide array of players as TM says, but it's not for me.  I prefer the premium Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s.  (I used the upgraded "TP" Tourspec 7.3 shaft in the original SLDR 430/460 Drivers so upgraded shafts are the norm for me).

 

Hopefully this clears up the clueless and false assumptions made by "Undershooter30" about the 2015 SLDR-C Driver.  

[Sschaffer24]

You are obviously quite clueless about the SLDR-C Driver.  Fact is, it is a totally different clubhead than the Silver "S" or the original Charcoal Gray SLDR 460cc Driver.  The SLDR-C is a completely different clubhead shape. If you had actually compared the heads up close you would know this, so you are clearly just spouting B.S. here.

 

Before criticizing my driver choice you should at least educate yourself.  When you do an up close comparison AND compare performance, the differences in the "C" vs the other SLDR's are quite obvious indeed, and as for the color, the new gloss black color looks GREAT on this new SLDR head, (contrary to what you said above).  

 

BTW, although I don't play it, the TM "57" stock shaft is the same co-engineered stock shaft used in the original SLDR, just slightly different TM SLDR graphics with the Fujikura name removed.  TM moved away from the using the "made for" shaft graphics in 2015 and no longer pays royalties to Fujikura in exchange for using their name on TM shafts.  (You may have noted that the stock shafts for TM's  M-Family use the shaft manufacturer's graphics, so TM's "made for" graphics on driver shafts appear to be history now).  The SLDR-C's stock 57 shaft probably fits a fairly wide array of players as TM says, but it's not for me.  I prefer the premium Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s.  (I used the upgraded "TP" Tourspec 7.3 shaft in the original SLDR 430/460 Drivers so upgraded shafts are the norm for me).

 

Hopefully this clears up the clueless and false assumptions made by "Undershooter30" about the 2015 SLDR-C Driver.  

I think we need to keep in mind that golf is a very personalized sport. You're more than welcome to play the driver that you do bobcat, and someone commenting on that doesn't make you like/enjoy/fit the driver any less.

 

To each their own man.

[Kanoito]

BTW, although I don't play it, the TM "57" stock shaft is the same co-engineered stock shaft used in the original SLDR, just slightly different TM SLDR graphics with the Fujikura name removed.  TM moved away from the using the "made for" shaft graphics in 2015 and no longer pays royalties to Fujikura in exchange for using their name on TM shafts.  (You may have noted that the stock shafts for TM's  M-Family use the shaft manufacturer's graphics, so TM's "made for" graphics on driver shafts appear to be history now). 

 

Does this mean that the "made for" versions no longer exist and TM uses real aftermarket versions or are they still using "made for" variants without the customized logo?

[bobcat]

I think we need to keep in mind that golf is a very personalized sport. You're more than welcome to play the driver that you do bobcat, and someone commenting on that doesn't make you like/enjoy/fit the driver any less.

 

To each their own man.

Comments are one thing, but outright lies and distortions about equipment are something else entirely and should not be tolerated by anyone.  To state that the SLDR-C and the SLDR-S are the same head is a huge distortion of the truth and people deserve the truth when they visit this site.  Completely different clubheads! 

[Tony Covey MGS]

You are obviously quite clueless about the SLDR-C Driver.  Fact is, it is a totally different clubhead than the Silver "S" or the original Charcoal Gray SLDR 460cc Driver.  The SLDR-C is a completely different clubhead shape. If you had actually compared the heads up close you would know this, so you are clearly just spouting B.S. here.

 

Before criticizing my driver choice you should at least educate yourself.  When you do an up close comparison AND compare performance, the differences in the "C" vs the other SLDR's are quite obvious indeed, and as for the color, the new gloss black color looks GREAT on this new SLDR head, (contrary to what you said above).  

 

BTW, although I don't play it, the TM "57" stock shaft is the same co-engineered stock shaft used in the original SLDR, just slightly different TM SLDR graphics with the Fujikura name removed.  TM moved away from the using the "made for" shaft graphics in 2015 and no longer pays royalties to Fujikura in exchange for using their name on TM shafts.  (You may have noted that the stock shafts for TM's  M-Family use the shaft manufacturer's graphics, so TM's "made for" graphics on driver shafts appear to be history now).  The SLDR-C's stock 57 shaft probably fits a fairly wide array of players as TM says, but it's not for me.  I prefer the premium Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s.  (I used the upgraded "TP" Tourspec 7.3 shaft in the original SLDR 430/460 Drivers so upgraded shafts are the norm for me).

 

Hopefully this clears up the clueless and false assumptions made by "Undershooter30" about the 2015 SLDR-C Driver.  

 

I wasn't going to jump in on this, but in the interest of actual education, let me clear up any misconceptions or other cluelessness about what the SLDR-C is or is not.

 

It is not a repainted SLDR-S, but it is based on a pre-existing shape...likely an older shape...think Burner, JetSpeed...something from a non-SLDR line. What it is is a big box exclusive that comes at a discount price with plenty of cost-cutting built into the head.

 

What I mean by that is multi-fold:

 

1) There's no fresh/unique/dedicated R&D - everything built into the head is pre-existing technology. Nobody engineers specifically for big box.

2) Tolerances are not nearly as tight as they are with a main line product. You get what you pay for.

 

How that generally manifests itself is thicker crowns, degraded face technology (inverted cone ain't what it is in the main line), sloppier welds (less internal polishing), and a stock shaft that's more questionable than a standard sub-$400 stock offering. Basically, there's a whole lot less attention to detail, because details cost money.

 

It is intended for the bargain shopper, and is designed (or more accurately not designed) with that audience in mind.

 

Now this is not to say it won't perform well for some people. There's going to be more variance between good copies and bad, but at the end of the day, the loft, CG, etc. properties will work for some golfers (even with a garbage shaft).

 

That said...knowing what it is - it's not something I would recommend anyone actively seek out.

 

This is how TaylorMade does big box exclusives (although some Japanese SLDR 430s made their way to Dick's). This isn't true for every company. Cobra has done exclusives for both Dick's and Golf Galaxy. In those cases the only differences between the main line and the exclusive product was the paint...the design, and manufacturing tolerances were the same.

 

Callaway also has some big box exclusives...same rules apply. Bargain products for bargain shoppers. To reach the lower price point, there are tradeoffs.

[Tony Covey MGS]

Does this mean that the "made for" versions no longer exist and TM uses real aftermarket versions or are they still using "made for" variants without the customized logo?

 

No...many companies are still using Made for variants...most aren't being completely transparent about it.

 

While there can always be exceptions, a good rule of thumb...if the driver is under $400, the shaft is likely co-engineered.

[bobcat]

Does this mean that the "made for" versions no longer exist and TM uses real aftermarket versions or are they still using "made for" variants without the customized logo?

I referenced the M-Family shafts because you can plainly see those are the "real deal" shafts, with no special "made for TM graphics".  That indicates the change in shaft logo philosophy for TM that occurred around mid-2015, (when the SLDR-C was announced).  The shaft manufacturer's logo on the various M1/M2 premium Driver shafts is identical to what you would get if you bought the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer.

[bobcat]

Does this mean that the "made for" versions no longer exist and TM uses real aftermarket versions or are they still using "made for" variants without the customized logo?

I referenced the M-Family shafts because you can plainly see those are the "real deal" shafts, with no special "made for TM graphics".  That indicates the change in shaft logo philosophy for TM that occurred around mid-2015, (when the SLDR-C was announced).  The shaft manufacturer's logo on the various M1/M2 premium Driver shafts is identical to what you would get if you bought the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer.

[Sschaffer24]

No...many companies are still using Made for variants...most aren't being completely transparent about it.

 

While there can always be exceptions, a good rule of thumb...if the driver is under $400, the shaft is likely co-engineered.

 

Not to turn this into a huge conversation, but does that mean that say the M1 isn't playing the true aftermarket shaft that is being advertised? (Could use Callaway/Nike/Titleist in the example)

[Tony Covey MGS]

Not to turn this into a huge conversation, but does that mean that say the M1 isn't playing the true aftermarket shaft that is being advertised? (Could use Callaway/Nike/Titleist in the example)

 

M1, GBB, GBB DBD, KING LTD, etc., once you cross the $400 threshold, the shafts are almost always legit (regardless of the graphics).

 

The M2 stock shafts...with TaylorMade graphics, I'm fairly certain are still co-engineered. Note that weights differ slightly between the TM and true Fuji offerings.

[Sschaffer24]

M1, GBB, GBB DBD, KING LTD, etc., once you cross the $400 threshold, the shafts are almost always legit (regardless of the graphics).

 

The M2 stock shafts...with TaylorMade graphics, I'm fairly certain are still co-engineered. Note that weights differ slightly between the TM and true Fuji offerings.

 

Awesome. Thank you sir!

[bobcat]

I wasn't going to jump in on this, but in the interest of actual education, let me clear up any misconceptions or other cluelessness about what the SLDR-C is or is not.

 

It is not a repainted SLDR-S, but it is based on a pre-existing shape...likely an older shape...think Burner, JetSpeed...something from a non-SLDR line. What it is is a big box exclusive that comes at a discount price with plenty of cost-cutting built into the head.

 

What I mean by that is multi-fold:

 

1) There's no fresh/unique/dedicated R&D - everything built into the head is pre-existing technology. Nobody engineers specifically for big box.

2) Tolerances are not nearly as tight as they are with a main line product. You get what you pay for.

 

How that generally manifests itself is thicker crowns, degraded face technology (inverted cone ain't what it is in the main line), sloppier welds (less internal polishing), and a stock shaft that's more questionable than a standard sub-$400 stock offering. Basically, there's a whole lot less attention to detail, because details cost money.

 

It is intended for the bargain shopper, and is designed (or more accurately not designed) with that audience in mind.

 

Now this is not to say it won't perform well for some people. There's going to be more variance between good copies and bad, but at the end of the day, the loft, CG, etc. properties will work for some golfers (even with a garbage shaft).

 

That said...knowing what it is - it's not something I would recommend anyone actively seek out.

 

This is how TaylorMade does big box exclusives (although some Japanese SLDR 430s made their way to Dick's). This isn't true for every company. Cobra has done exclusives for both Dick's and Golf Galaxy. In those cases the only differences between the main line and the exclusive product was the paint...the design, and manufacturing tolerances were the same.

 

Callaway also has some big box exclusives...same rules apply. Bargain products for bargain shoppers. To reach the lower price point, there are tradeoffs.

 

 

 

There is no quality trade-off here.   The SLDR-C was announced with a lower MSRP simply because it is a 100% Titanium bonded, (non-adustable hosel), and has no slider mechanism(s). (A speed pocket replaced the slider just as with the SLDR Mini Driver, and you see that on the new M2 as well).

 

It should come as no surprise to anyone that a simpler, non-adjustable driver cost less than highly adjustable and multi-material TM models.  However, not everyone needs, (or even wants) adjustable drivers with complex mechanisms that can add weight in some very undesirable places.  No doubt you have read all the complaints about the original SLDR's lack of forgiveness, which may help explain why TM decided to add a more forgiving version to the SLDR mix even AFTER the R15/AeroBurner were already out.

 

For those who are interested, all TM heads are produced in China to the very same quality standard. I assure you the Chinese assembly line workers have no idea of how TM prices their drivers here in the USA or elsewhere as they build/paint these drivers from raw castings. The SLDR-C does not come with a "TP" or other premium shaft option.  It comes stock with the TM "57" shaft that is the same as the original SLDR stock shaft, but with slightly different TM/SLDR graphics.  You may prefer a premium shaft just as I did, but you'll have to purchase it separately. 

 

FWIW, I have played every 460cc SLDR model and also a Tour-issue (430) and for me, the SLDR-C performs much better and is considerably more forgiving.   While your SLDR preferences may vary, I think is worth understanding the differences between the newest S2015 SLDR "C" model and verses the older 2013/2014 versions.  

 

Ironically, the only "quality" issues I have heard about lately from TM have been with the (most expensive) M-Family of Driver, where there have been some reports of paint peeling where the composite material meets the titanium on the M1/M2 crown.  

[bobcat]

M1, GBB, GBB DBD, KING LTD, etc., once you cross the $400 threshold, the shafts are almost always legit (regardless of the graphics).

 

The M2 stock shafts...with TaylorMade graphics, I'm fairly certain are still co-engineered. Note that weights differ slightly between the TM and true Fuji offerings.

 

Just to be clear, the stock M2 driver shafts,(for Men), are the Fujikura Pro 50 or Pro 60 that have Fujikura's graphics, (not Taylormade graphics).  As for the weight, all I can only say that Fujikura quotes the raw weight of their driver shafts which is 46", not sure if TM is using that or their installed stock shaft length when quoting the weight of their stock M2 shaft. 

 

The premium shaft offerings for the M-Family also use the shaft manufacturers graphics, and not any special TM graphics.  These are all "real deal" shafts, not "made for" shafts.

[Tony Covey MGS]

There is no quality trade-off here.   The SLDR-C was announced with a lower MSRP simply because it is a 100% Titanium bonded, (non-adustable hosel), and has no slider mechanism(s). (A speed pocket replaced the slider just as with the SLDR Mini Driver, and you see that on the new M2 as well).

 

it should come as no surprise that simpler, non-adjustable drivers cost less than the adjustable and multi-material models.  Furthermore, not everyone needs, (or even wants) adjustable drivers with complex mechanisms that can add weight in very undesirable places.  No doubt you have read all the complaints about the original SLDR's lack of forgiveness, which may explain why TM decided to add a more forgiving version to the SLDR mix. 

 

For those who are interested, all TM heads are produced in China to the very same quality standard. I assure you the Chinese assembly line workers have no idea of how TM prices their drivers here in the USA or elsewhere as they build these drivers from raw castings.  

 

FWIW, I have played every 460cc SLDR model and also a Tour-issue (430) and for me, the SLDR-C performs much better and is considerably more forgiving.   While your SLDR preferences may vary, I think is worth understanding the differences between the newest S2015 SLDR "C" model and verses the older 2013/2014 versions.  

 

Ironically, the only "quality" issues I have heard about lately from TM have been with the (most expensive) M-Family of Driver, where there have been some reports of paint peeling where the composite material meets the titanium on the M1/M2 crown.  

 

If it makes you feel better to believe that a $20 hosel adapter is the only difference of consequence between the SLDR-C and main line offerings, by all means feel free. Or you could trust that I might know people who let me in on the truth about what really goes on in this industry. The quality (ie tolerances, some of which have direct tie-ins to performance) is not the same.

 

TaylorMade did not decide to make a more forgiving product...they churned out a product that would appeal to the big box consumer. Again...ZERO original R&D in the design. Again...not saying it doesn't work for some people, but there's a difference between the story and the reality.

 

Yeah...I made some call when it showed up on the USGA list.

 

And frankly, you're just wrong about what goes on in the factories. Just wrong...no other way to say it. It's not a question of whether or not a guy on the line knows how much it cost at retail...it comes the specifications he has to achieve. He's not told "make a $500 driver". He's told, for example, make sure the crown thickness is between X and Y. That's all he needs to know, but be irrefutably assured that for anything below the $340 price point, the difference between X and Y is larger. The polishing of welds (which is where a good bit of the variance in weight comes from) doesn't have to be nearly as precise.

 

Companies pay for tolerances...that means inspections, rejections, more time spent polishing welds, etc.. Time is money, achieving specified tolerances take more time...when tolerances are broad, cost drops, when their tight, costs rise. Again...you can argue - you can toe the TaylorMade line, or you can trust my experience and my sources. 

 

I'd also be willing to bet that some material costs were cut as well...it's fairly standard practice with the bargain stuff.

 

Look, I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. That's all that counts, but for everybody who wants to know what they're looking at, it's important that we don't spread this "it's just the bonded hosel' stuff. There's way more to it than that, and some of it isn't pretty.

[Tony Covey MGS]

Just to be clear, the stock M2 driver shafts,(for Men), are the Fujikura Pro 50 or Pro 60 that have Fujikura's graphics, (not Taylormade graphics).  As for the weight, all I can only say that Fujikura quotes the raw weight of their driver shafts which is 46", not sure if TM is using that or their installed stock shaft length when quoting the weight of their stock M2 shaft. 

 

The premium shaft offerings for the M-Family also use the shaft manufacturers graphics, and not any special TM graphics.  These are all "real deal" shafts, not "made for" shafts.

 

In hindsight, I believe this is likely accurate. Forgot that the PRO 60 was released after the rest of the Pro line and that the graphics are a bit different.

 

Best I can say is it's likely real. It's not unheard of for manufacturers to use authentic graphics with slightly modified shafts, but TM is trying to be genuine and authentic these days, so given M2 price point, it's likely on the up and up.

[bobcat]

If it makes you feel better to believe that a $20 hosel adapter is the only difference of consequence between the SLDR-C and main line offerings, by all means feel free. Or you could trust that I might know people who let me in on the truth about what really goes on in this industry. The quality (ie tolerances, some of which have direct tie-ins to performance) is not the same.

 

TaylorMade did not decide to make a more forgiving product...they churned out a product that would appeal to the big box consumer. Again...ZERO original R&D in the design. Again...not saying it doesn't work for some people, but there's a difference between the story and the reality.

 

Yeah...I made some call when it showed up on the USGA list.

 

And frankly, you're just wrong about what goes on in the factories. Just wrong...no other way to say it. It's not a question of whether or not a guy on the line knows how much it cost at retail...it comes the specifications he has to achieve. He's not told "make a $500 driver". He's told, for example, make sure the crown thickness is between X and Y. That's all he needs to know, but be irrefutably assured that for anything below the $340 price point, the difference between X and Y is larger. The polishing of welds (which is where a good bit of the variance in weight comes from) doesn't have to be nearly as precise.

 

Companies pay for tolerances...that means inspections, rejections, more time spent polishing welds, etc.. Time is money, achieving specified tolerances take more time...when tolerances are broad, cost drops, when their tight, costs rise. Again...you can argue - you can toe the TaylorMade line, or you can trust my experience and my sources. 

 

I'd also be willing to bet that some material costs were cut as well...it's fairly standard practice with the bargain stuff.

 

Look, I'm glad you're happy with your purchase. That's all that counts, but for everybody who wants to know what they're looking at, it's important that we don't spread this "it's just the bonded hosel' stuff. There's way more to it than that, and some of it isn't pretty.

 

The SLDR-C didn't offer any new "breakthrough technology" but it is still very much an SLDR that retains a low forward CG and low spin similar to the originals while adding FORGIVENESS to the mix.  IMO a forgiving SLDR is a beautiful thing, and the only thing the SLDR Family was lacking.

 

I judge a driver on how it performs, not its (MRSP) price.  Fact is, there is no direct relationship between price and performance despite what the OEM's might want you to believe.  I have found that to be particularly true within the SLDR Family of Drivers.  When it comes to golf equipment, you can always spend more, without getting better performance.

 

People often buy hyped, expensive drivers that don't work well for them as seen with the original SLDRs.  The right/driver shaft combo for you is probably NOT the most expensive one you can buy. It is always best to test and compare to find the best head/shaft combo for your swing, and I am not talking about in-house launch monitors. You need to hit clubs outside where you can see and compare actual ball flight.

[hckymeyer]

 

 

 

Bobcat - I'm very glad you are happy with your SLDR-C, it's a wonderful thing when you find a driver that works for you.  For the purpose of this thread though I trust T when he tells it like it is.  I think we can move on from the C conversation.

 

 

 

[bobcat]

stay on topic.jpg

 

 

 

Bobcat - I'm very glad you are happy with your SLDR-C, it's a wonderful thing when you find a driver that works for you.  For the purpose of this thread though I trust T when he tells it like it is.  I think we can move on from the C conversation.

 

That is a very off-base comment since this is, after all, an SLDR thread, so my posts are very much ON TOPIC!

 

It doesn't matter to me whether anyone else shares my affection for the SLDR-C, but I needed to replace some false assumptions made here with the actual facts which I know from having played both the SLDR-C and the older Drivers in the SLDR Family as well. That is the reason why I have made replies here.  

 

I think its very clear now that if you have never actually hit or even seen a particular driver yourself, any comments you may make here are of questionable credibility, no matter who you are.  My comments are based on actual experience with the SLDR Family.

 

Just in case you missed it hckymeyer, this thread's title is "Operation Beat SLDR", and in my case, nothing has except the newer, and even better SLDR-C!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kor.A.Door]

Well this just got a little more interesting over the last couple days, I strongly dislike SLDR of any kind, but I have been following Hockey's quest to beat it. Which apparently he has not.

Bobcat, don't take offense to things, you have a opinion on the subject, and so does T, we as the reader can make our own judgment on what we believe to be true, you,found a club that works well for you, that's the important thing. There are always going to be differing opinions, always. I think you guys should take your SLDR to the scrap yard that's my opinion on them, but one mans junk is another mans treasure so all you weird people keep using them.

[Undershooter]

You are obviously quite clueless about the SLDR-C Driver.  Fact is, it is a totally different clubhead than the Silver "S" or the original Charcoal Gray SLDR 460cc Driver.  The SLDR-C is a completely different clubhead shape with a lower profile crown and a clubface that is wider from heel-to-toe than the origiinal 460cc or the "S".  If you had actually compared the heads up close you would know this, so you are clearly just spouting off B.S. here.

 

Before criticizing my driver choice you should at least educate yourself.  When you do an up close comparison AND compare performance, the differences in the "C" vs the other SLDR's are quite obvious indeed, and as for the color, the new gloss black color looks GREAT on this new SLDR head, (contrary to what you said above).  

 

BTW, although I don't play it, the TM "57" stock shaft is the same co-engineered stock shaft used in the original SLDR, just slightly different TM SLDR graphics with the Fujikura name removed.  TM moved away from the using the "made for" shaft graphics in 2015 and no longer pays royalties to Fujikura in exchange for using their name on TM shafts.  (You may have noted that the stock shafts for TM's  M-Family use the shaft manufacturer's graphics, so TM's "made for" graphics on driver shafts appear to be history now).  The SLDR-C's stock 57 shaft probably fits a fairly wide array of players as TM says, but it's not for me.  I prefer the premium Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s.  (I used the upgraded "TP" Tourspec 7.3 shaft in the original SLDR 430/460 Drivers so upgraded shafts are the norm for me).

 

Hopefully this clears up the clueless and false assumptions made by "Undershooter30" about the 2015 SLDR-C Driver.  

Look friend, I'm alot of things but clueless isn't one of them. I can also admit when I made a mistake which I did. I had read somewhere else that the SLDR-c was based on a previous design and basically just got a new paint job(glad you think its uber amazing). I thought I had read it was the SLDR-s but I guess I'm wrong, its an even older design. Oh well. When it comes to club information, I'm going for whatever GolfSpyT says over some dude who happens to like the club. This is his job. Its also no secret that that club is a big box store variant. At the end of the day, it works for you. That's good. Happy for you. 

 

You've made your suggestion. Mind if we get back to the topic on hand? At this point I'm sorry I even said anything about it. 

[hckymeyer]

You made a very off-case comment since this is, after all, an SLDR thread, so my posts are very much ON TOPIC!

 

It doesn't matter to me whether anyone else shares my affection for the SLDR-C, but I needed to replace some false assumptions made here with the actual facts which I know from having played both the SLDR-C and the older Drivers in the SLDR Family as well. That is the reason why I have made replies here.  

 

I think its very clear now that if you have never actually hit or even seen a particular driver yourself, any comments you may make here are of questionable credibility, no matter who you are.  My comments are based on actual experience with the SLDR Family.

 

Just in case you missed it hckymeyer, this thread's title is "Operation Beat SLDR", and in my case, nothing has.

I'm very much aware of the thread title, I'm the one who created it.  

 

I appreciate your passion for the SLDR-C, but I'm going to take T's word on it's creation over yours.  No offense intended there, but I know where he get's his information from.

 

Also just because two things share the same name doesn't mean I consider it in the same family.  The SLDR-C bears as many similarities to the original as me writing PING on a piece of wood with a sharpie and calling it an Answer.

 

Neither have any bearing in my quest to find something that can knock my SLDR out of the bag.

[bobcat]

TM gave it the SLDR name and that is quite good enough for me....As previously said, it's just a more forgiving version of the SLDR for those that can actually appreciate a more forgiving SLDR Driver.  In my opinion, facts and truth actually do matter.

 

I have no idea of what "T" or anyone else here may have seen, hit or actually played, but if anyone wants to further challenge the SLDR-C's credentials or needs more information about how it compares with the other SLDR Drivers, I suggest you contact Brian Bazzel, Senior Director of Product Creation for Metalwoods at TaylorMade. There is no need to take my word...just go directly to the source for the information. 

 

Note: Brian Bazzel can be reached directly through Linkedin. 

[Tony Covey MGS]

TM gave it the SLDR name and that is quite good enough for me....As previously said, it's just a more forgiving version of the SLDR for those that can actually appreciate a more forgiving SLDR Driver.  In my opinion, facts and truth actually do matter.

 

I have no idea of what "T" or anyone else here may have seen, hit or actually played, but if anyone wants to further challenge the SLDR-C's credentials or needs more information about how it compares with the other SLDR Drivers, I suggest you contact Brian Bazzel, Senior Director of Product Creation for Metalwoods at TaylorMade. There is no need to take my word...just go directly to the source for the information. 

 

Note: Brian Bazzel can be reached directly through Linkedin. 

 

Bazz is one of my favorite guys in the golf industry. All class, and just a really nice guy. I've never heard anybody at any golf company say anything the least bit negative about him. 

 

That said...if you honestly believe anyone in his position with any golf company is going to tell you the 100% letter of the truth when it comes to the R&D behind specific products...especially big box specials...dude...put the pipe down. Walk away.

[Mr_Theoo]

Well regripping the SLDR didn't take away any magic. The rust in my game did, but the few i really caught still has me believing this club will be in the bag for another season.

[bobcat]

Bazz is one of my favorite guys in the golf industry. All class, and just a really nice guy. I've never heard anybody at any golf company say anything the least bit negative about him. 

 

That said...if you honestly believe anyone in his position with any golf company is going to tell you the 100% letter of the truth when it comes to the R&D behind specific products...especially big box specials...dude...put the pipe down. Walk away.

"Big box specials"?  If indeed you are referring to the SLDR-C, it is being sold by Golfsmith, Edwin Watts, PGA Superstore and other major golf equipment Retailers, and online stores as well.  (JUST LIKE EVERY OTHER TM DRIVER)  This is not just a "designed exclusively for Dicks" type of product as you seem to be alluding to here.  Like I said, facts and truth actually matter.