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Ok, I have no doubt this question has appeared a million times, BUT it is an important issue for millions of golfers. My particular situation is as follows;

 

I am....

 

1) 6 feet tall.

2) Wrist to floor measurement 34"

3) Current driver is a 45.75" Cleveland Launcher SL290, 12 degree head.

4) Driver swing speed 102.

 

 The club is waaaaayyyyyy too long for me and my path is really shallow. I never feel like I'm getting anywhere near the swing speed, and impact I can achieve with a shorter driver. So, I am considering cutting this driver down.

 

My Questions

 

1) The floor to wrist measurement using the Wishon tables suggests a driver length of 43-43.5 inches. Erring on the side of caution, I think 44 inches would be a good choice. Thoughts?

2) The 44 inches I'm considering, is as I understand it, is an OVERALL length, NOT just the shaft length, correct?

3) When cutting 1.75" off the existing shaft, what change (if any) can I expect in swing weight or flex point of the shaft? Being a Miyazaki C.Kua shaft, it has a soft tip already. I think the shaft code was 8722 meaning stiff at the grip end and soft at the tip end.

 

Thanks for any help you can send my way!

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I am 5'-7" with wrist to floor of 31-1/2 inches.....My driver(Cobra King LTD) has a stock Aldila Rogue Black that is 45.5 inches but I use a Padersonn Kinetix IMRT that is only 44.5 inches.  I must say, I get better accuracy with theshorter Paderson than the staock 45.5.  I don't see where a shorter shaft will hurt you at 6' tall.  

 

 

From Wishon's fitting characteristics.....

  • If the golfer's best driver length is shorter than 44 inches, the second longest wood should be 1 inch shorter than the driver. If the golfer's handicap is more than 15, make the second-longest wood 1.5 inches shorter than the driver.
  • The length increment between fairway woods should not be less than 1 inch. Less can contribute to compressing the distance gap between woods.
  • The wrist-to-floor measurement is a good way to start the length fitting process for the irons or hybrids, but not for the driver or woods. Driver and wood length is purely about what lengths offer the most control, consistency for the golfer's ability.
  • Being taller than average height does not mean you have to play with lengths that are longer than standard. It is the combination of height + arm length + posture and stance that determines each golfer's best iron and hybrid lengths.
  • It is the golfer's swing characteristics and golf athletic ability, however, that determines each golfer's best driver and wood lengths.
  • Hybrids should be fit to the same length as the irons being replaced with hybrids.

Driver: image.png.6ba1c8a254ad57aa05e527b74c2e04ba.png0311 XF 10.5* w/Project X Cypher 40 gram Senior shaft or 0811 XF 12* w/Evenflo Riptide CB Senior shaft

Fairways:  image.png.80321f01fc46450b6f428c7daf7b3471.png0211 5W & 7W w/ Evenflo Riptide CB  regular shaft and Tour Edge E521 9W w/Fubuki HD50 regular shaft

Hybrid: None in bag at the moment

IronsTitleist T300 5-PW w/Fubuki MV Senior graphite shafts w/Golf Pride Tour

Wedges: Edison forged 49*, 53* and 57* wedges with KB PGI Senior shafts(80 grm).

Putter: 33” Evnroll ER6R or  ER2 or Bellum Winmore Model 707,   or Nike Method Core Drone  w/Evnroll Gravity Grip

Bag: Vice cart bag(Black/Lime). 

Ball: Snell MTB Prime X, Maxfli Tour/S/X CG, Titleist Pro V1x or Titleist TruFeel

Using Shot Scope X5 and Pinned Rangefinder

 

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Cutting from the butt end shouldn't affect flex to any noticeable degree.  You will mess with the swing weight though, you may have to add weight back in to the head to get it to feel the same.  You may also like the new feel, just depends on the player.

 

While there is no blanket statement when it comes to golf clubs, I think shorter is better for most of the people out there.  I have 2 drivers, one at 44.5 and one at 45.  I'm 5' 10" but have no idea what my wrist to floor measurement is.

 

You have to be careful when using a static chart to fit your clubs.  Every swing is different and just because you are X tall and have X measurement does not mean that chart will give you the best results.

 

If you are this in to getting a properly fit driver I would highly recommend going to see a competent fitter and going through the whole fitting process before you start cutting almost 2 inches off a shaft.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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I agree with hckymeyer.......a static chart is just a beginning.  You then have to factor in your particular height, swing, etc.

Driver: image.png.6ba1c8a254ad57aa05e527b74c2e04ba.png0311 XF 10.5* w/Project X Cypher 40 gram Senior shaft or 0811 XF 12* w/Evenflo Riptide CB Senior shaft

Fairways:  image.png.80321f01fc46450b6f428c7daf7b3471.png0211 5W & 7W w/ Evenflo Riptide CB  regular shaft and Tour Edge E521 9W w/Fubuki HD50 regular shaft

Hybrid: None in bag at the moment

IronsTitleist T300 5-PW w/Fubuki MV Senior graphite shafts w/Golf Pride Tour

Wedges: Edison forged 49*, 53* and 57* wedges with KB PGI Senior shafts(80 grm).

Putter: 33” Evnroll ER6R or  ER2 or Bellum Winmore Model 707,   or Nike Method Core Drone  w/Evnroll Gravity Grip

Bag: Vice cart bag(Black/Lime). 

Ball: Snell MTB Prime X, Maxfli Tour/S/X CG, Titleist Pro V1x or Titleist TruFeel

Using Shot Scope X5 and Pinned Rangefinder

 

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Why not just grip down an 1"? I don't hold any club all the way out to the end of the grip. I have about (at least 1/2" exposed past my right palm.) Look at tour players on TV. You can see them holding the club similarly. If you want more examples look at some of the LPGA players. Many of them grip way down. To be honest, my coach/pro was the guy that corrected how I grip the club. I used to have the grip in my left hand not exposed at all. By making a simple change my ball striking improved. More solid.

My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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I'm 6-2 and use the standard cobra Fly Z+ Length of 45. I think i've read most pros play 44.5 and shorter, but cutting 1.75-2 inches off is a lot. Get a Pure grip so you can just air blow it on and off, so you can cut 1 inch, play with it a bit, then cut off 0.25-0.5 inches as you go if needed and don't have to deal with the regripping mess. Once you get your proper length down, then regrip with whatever you like. 

What's in my  :cleveland-small: bag:

Driver :  :cobra-small: F9 10.5, Fujikura Speeder 757 TR 

Fairway  :cobra-small: F9 15.5° Aldila Rogue White 80X

Hybrid:  :cobra-small: King F7 18° KBS Tour PROTO Hybrid 95 S+

Irons:   :srixon-small: z585 4i - 6i,  z785 7i-PW, Nippon Modus 120X

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: CBX  50.11, 55.11, 60.10  TT DG S400 Black

Putter:  post-53756-150768041262.jpg Honey Badger 34" 

Ball:  :srixon-small: Q-Star Tour

 

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And by the way.... a while back I measured 2 of my old wooden drivers from ancient times (ehem... Kenny, Foz, Stu) and they were exactly 43". And get this... I was considered an accurate driver but not that long back then. I've never been a long driver of the ball.

Just something to chew on.

My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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Ok, I have no doubt this question has appeared a million times, BUT it is an important issue for millions of golfers. My particular situation is as follows;

 

I am....

 

1) 6 feet tall.

2) Wrist to floor measurement 34"

3) Current driver is a 45.75" Cleveland Launcher SL290, 12 degree head.

4) Driver swing speed 102.

 

The club is waaaaayyyyyy too long for me and my path is really shallow. I never feel like I'm getting anywhere near the swing speed, and impact I can achieve with a shorter driver. So, I am considering cutting this driver down.

 

My Questions

 

1) The floor to wrist measurement using the Wishon tables suggests a driver length of 43-43.5 inches. Erring on the side of caution, I think 44 inches would be a good choice. Thoughts?

2) The 44 inches I'm considering, is as I understand it, is an OVERALL length, NOT just the shaft length, correct?

3) When cutting 1.75" off the existing shaft, what change (if any) can I expect in swing weight or flex point of the shaft? Being a Miyazaki C.Kua shaft, it has a soft tip already. I think the shaft code was 8722 meaning stiff at the grip end and soft at the tip end.

 

Thanks for any help you can send my way!

The lengths in the chart is playin length, not shaft length. If you were to use a 44" shaft, you'd be right at 45.5" playing length accounting for most manufacturer's bbtg measurement. A 44" shaft in an adapter plays an additional 1/2" longer than that.

 

The chart is talking playing length. So if you sit the club in the playing position, measured up the back side of the shaft from the ground, it'd measure 44" to the butt of the shaft where it's cut. Shaft would be around 42.5" long (give or take depending on the club and the bbtg measurement).

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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  • 1 month later...

1) Wishon lengths are very conservative but he drives home the point of a shorter club. The data I have from my fittings show the 44.5" driver length is the most popular.

 

2) correct, see RB7s previous post.

 

3) You can expect the club to feel very light in comparison to the original length. There are discussions about the effects on cutting down the cut flex, spine, etc personally I don't much of that but 1.75" is significant. cosmetically you will most likely be putting on a grip over the logo of the grip.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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The wrist to floor measurement for drivers is irrelevant, since golf balls are not played off the floor with drivers!

Get yourself fitted dynamically. By that I mean you need to hit golf balls and see precisely where they are contacting the club face - and what direction/dispersion the golf ball takes. 

From this data can be derived your correct playing length.

What I would say though is make sure you fit for shaft weight first - this will have a dramatic effect on how well you will be able to swing and contact the ball. The bottom line is to be able to comfortably swing the club on the correct path and hit the centre of the club face consistently. Too heavy a shaft will be difficult to transition and control and similar feelings of lack of control will be seen with a shaft that is too light for a particular swing - so finding an ideal shaft (and perhaps a combination of swing weight) is a must. Without achieving this first, any other fitting parameters will be void.

As a basic rule of thumb, fit a shaft for weight and length before worrying about flex and profile. Any decent fitter should be able to identify the correct shaft flex and profile (and thereafter loft) in due course, but if you have never been fitted for the correct weight and shaft length beforehand, you ain't been fitted.

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