chappy Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Justin, As I live in Australia, it is often extremely expensive to get things such as pullers shipped to OZ and teh local market is a little sparse, so I made my own. Pics below, excuse the mess in my workshop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin66 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 Justin, As I live in Australia, it is often extremely expensive to get things such as pullers shipped to OZ and teh local market is a little sparse, so I made my own. I wonder if, when you go to the checkout screen at the Golfsmith-like places, under shipping charges is says "arm & leg" or "first born" instead of a dollar amount? Pretty neat puller, though. That's some impressive ingenuity! I don't think I'm that mechanically inclined, though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappy Posted August 25, 2010 Share Posted August 25, 2010 Justin it is amazing what you can achieve when you are strapped for $$, but still have a mulitude of bibs and bobs at your disposal. The only thing I needed assistance on to put that contraption together was welding the shaft tip guide. Rest I was able to carry out myself. Chappy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McGolf Posted August 28, 2010 Share Posted August 28, 2010 You have to hold the club in just about every thing you do with a club so a vice is needed. Elevate the vice to put it in a better more ergonomic position. IF you are looking to save time then a clamp to set in the vice is needed. Look at the speed clamp. if not a rubber clamp is just as good. doing grips requires a catch pan, utility knife (hook blade), tape, clamp (see above) solvent( not gas, lamp oil, etc) get the real solvent and catch it in a pan then recycle to save the money. you may need to build up a grip so a brown paper packing is best but others can work. pulling a shaft requires heat and a puller. I suggest a butane torch, and good puller, this is worth it weight in gold for time and effort. assembly requires you measure length, frequency, loft and lie to begin with. A top mounted ruler unit is the way to go but to get started a 48 inch ruler works too. Frequency is measure with a freq machine from either GW or GS I prefer the GW model. loft and lie can be done with a bending machine but an actual loft lie machine is the way we do it. Finishing clubs needs the ferrules done that can be the clamp and sand paper and acetone or a 1 x 42 sander and acetone. glue is an important part of bldg. I use cardboard and a wooden coffee stix. a more GREEN ides is a flat bald screw driver and wipe it off when done. USE shafting beads. cutting shafts can be done with a tubing cutter for steel and abrasive saw blade for graphite or a cut off wheel for both. Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce Putter - Makefield VS LH Ball - truvis Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD. HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indacup Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 For a sweeter swinging club? I would guess centering/shafting beads as well because they add to the stickiness factor. How do those hold up over time? Wow, I forgot all about this thread! Sorry for not getting back sooner! Granulated sugar is a cheap substitute for shafting beads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.