Re-gripping with an air compressor

[dlow206 10,594]

1 minute ago, mr.paintmaker said:

Are your ears still ringing?

 

I have recovered lol

Was a little rough for about 4 hours after the incident

[fixyurdivot 16,662]

On 9/25/2021 at 10:07 PM, dlow206 said:

Definitely blew up a grip today. Thought it wasn't installed with double sided tape, but I was wrong. It had been installed with some super thing double sided tape. 

Is there a lesson to take away from this?  Can one peel/roll back the end of the grip a whisker and tell if it has adhesive tape?  If my PING wedge factory installed grip is representative of most OEM's, adhesive tape/solvent looks to be the standard.  I had no plans to try and re-use, so it was cut off... but if one wants to try and save a grip, anyway to tell install method?

[mr.paintmaker 5]

21 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

Is there a lesson to take away from this?  Can one peel/roll back the end of the grip a whisker and tell if it has adhesive tape?  If my PING wedge factory installed grip is representative of most OEM's, adhesive tape/solvent looks to be the standard.  I had no plans to try and re-use, so it was cut off... but if one wants to try and save a grip, anyway to tell install method?

The link below is the tool you'll need.

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-air-powered-golf-grip-removerinstaller/p/gw0103/

Of the OEMs, Ping does a great job taping and gripping. This making it easy to remove and replace quickly with air. I haven't read all 14 pages but safety doesn't seem to be mentioned.

Removing a grip with air, the tube/cylinder is designed to prevent explosion of the grip. The goal is to apply air pressure to just remove the seal of the rubber to the tape. Much too, pop or boom and too little your just making a lot of noise. Once the seal is broken, half of the grips blow off and the other half require a twist/force to come off. Some factors to consider, that will be unknown until the grip is off ... type of tape, how much tape, type of grip, age of the grip ...

Tape - masking v. double sided, double sided when activated will provide very good adhesion to the grip, masking tape will not. This was started as a Pure grip conversation, no tape required but other grips can be put on without tape. Challenge breaking the seal. If done correctly, the tape should go the length of the grip, if not the grip can adhere to the shaft. Harder to break that seal compared to the tape and grip.

Grip - most rubber grips can be removed. The multi-compound or engineered (Winn or SuperStroke) grips can pop or separate. Corded grips are bombs, I seldom try to safe or remove by air. 

Hopefully this is helpful.

[dlow206 10,594]

41 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

Is there a lesson to take away from this?  Can one peel/roll back the end of the grip a whisker and tell if it has adhesive tape?  If my PING wedge factory installed grip is representative of most OEM's, adhesive tape/solvent looks to be the standard.  I had no plans to try and re-use, so it was cut off... but if one wants to try and save a grip, anyway to tell install method?

I actually rolled back the bottom of the grip by an inch and did not see tape. I should have checked further. 

If I had known, I would have just taken the grip off either with a grip remover tool or using a needle and solvent. 

[fixyurdivot 16,662]

25 minutes ago, mr.paintmaker said:

The link below is the tool you'll need.

https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-air-powered-golf-grip-removerinstaller/p/gw0103/

Of the OEMs, Ping does a great job taping and gripping. This making it easy to remove and replace quickly with air. I haven't read all 14 pages but safety doesn't seem to be mentioned.

Removing a grip with air, the tube/cylinder is designed to prevent explosion of the grip. The goal is to apply air pressure to just remove the seal of the rubber to the tape. Much too, pop or boom and too little your just making a lot of noise. Once the seal is broken, half of the grips blow off and the other half require a twist/force to come off. Some factors to consider, that will be unknown until the grip is off ... type of tape, how much tape, type of grip, age of the grip ...

Tape - masking v. double sided, double sided when activated will provide very good adhesion to the grip, masking tape will not. This was started as a Pure grip conversation, no tape required but other grips can be put on without tape. Challenge breaking the seal. If done correctly, the tape should go the length of the grip, if not the grip can adhere to the shaft. Harder to break that seal compared to the tape and grip.

Grip - most rubber grips can be removed. The multi-compound or engineered (Winn or SuperStroke) grips can pop or separate. Corded grips are bombs, I seldom try to safe or remove by air. 

Hopefully this is helpful.

Good stuff. I just did my first remove/replace grips using air and got most all of the intel from the forum.  One DIY video suggested using just a wee bit of solvent with the air and I tried that... NO Bueno.  It's not needed and ended up leaving the butt end able to twist.  Once I realized I was holding the grip too tight and restricting air flow to the end, and also just bumping with enough air to break friction and advance, easy-beezy, lemon squeezy.

Another question I have is cut-off technique.  I purchased a DeWalt hook blade knife but, even as careful as I was, noticed I slightly scratched the scrim layer of my driver, 3w & 5w shafts.  Nothing deep enough to cause an issue but it would be nice to find a technique/tool that all but eliminates this concern.

[dlow206 10,594]

32 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

Good stuff. I just did my first remove/replace grips using air and got most all of the intel from the forum.  One DIY video suggested using just a wee bit of solvent with the air and I tried that... NO Bueno.  It's not needed and ended up leaving the butt end able to twist.  Once I realized I was holding the grip too tight and restricting air flow to the end, and also just bumping with enough air to break friction and advance, easy-beezy, lemon squeezy.

Another question I have is cut-off technique.  I purchased a DeWalt hook blade knife but, even as careful as I was, noticed I slightly scratched the scrim layer of my driver, 3w & 5w shafts.  Nothing deep enough to cause an issue but it would be nice to find a technique/tool that all but eliminates this concern.

Just need to be careful. 

[downlowkey 4,164]

47 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

Another question I have is cut-off technique.  I purchased a DeWalt hook blade knife but, even as careful as I was, noticed I slightly scratched the scrim layer of my driver, 3w & 5w shafts.  Nothing deep enough to cause an issue but it would be nice to find a technique/tool that all but eliminates this concern.

With the majority of rubber grips, you can roll them back so there is an overlap. Use a regular blade to cut through the outer layer with the bottom layer acting as a buffer to protect graphite shafts. Repeat the process a few times and you should be close to having it off. Toward the butt end where the grip is thicker and tougher to roll, you don’t necessarily need to cut all the way through to tear it. Like rending fabric, you only need to nick it with the blade to create a weak point.

[fixyurdivot 16,662]

4 hours ago, downlowkey said:

With the majority of rubber grips, you can roll them back so there is an overlap. Use a regular blade to cut through the outer layer with the bottom layer acting as a buffer to protect graphite shafts. Repeat the process a few times and you should be close to having it off. Toward the butt end where the grip is thicker and tougher to roll, you don’t necessarily need to cut all the way through to tear it. Like rending fabric, you only need to nick it with the blade to create a weak point.

Great trick... saved in the archives.  Thanks.

[tony@CIC 22,000]

6 hours ago, fixyurdivot said:

Good stuff. I just did my first remove/replace grips using air and got most all of the intel from the forum.  One DIY video suggested using just a wee bit of solvent with the air and I tried that... NO Bueno.  It's not needed and ended up leaving the butt end able to twist.  Once I realized I was holding the grip too tight and restricting air flow to the end, and also just bumping with enough air to break friction and advance, easy-beezy, lemon squeezy.

Another question I have is cut-off technique.  I purchased a DeWalt hook blade knife but, even as careful as I was, noticed I slightly scratched the scrim layer of my driver, 3w & 5w shafts.  Nothing deep enough to cause an issue but it would be nice to find a technique/tool that all but eliminates this concern.

You'll find a great tool in the Golfworks catalog and it's called 'Tape Stripper' their #GW1101 for $14.99. I can't find it in their online store but it is in the current catalog. It's designed for tape but does an awesome job cutting grips without damaging graphite shafts. Just don't get your fingers close to that blade - don't ask how I know. . Also it may have been mentioned a heat gun at a low setting softens up the tape nicely. 

p.s. you need to get yourself a Golfworks catalog - 225 pages of pure joy. . 

[fixyurdivot 16,662]

23 minutes ago, tony@CIC said:

You'll find a great tool in the Golfworks catalog and it's called 'Tape Stripper' their #GW1101 for $14.99. I can't find it in their online store but it is in the current catalog. It's designed for tape but does an awesome job cutting grips without damaging graphite shafts. Just don't get your fingers close to that blade - don't ask how I know. . Also it may have been mentioned a heat gun at a low setting softens up the tape nicely. 

p.s. you need to get yourself a Golfworks catalog - 225 pages of pure joy. . 

Oh yea, I recall seeing this reverse carpet cutter tool before and placing the butt of the grip into a cup to push against.  

[tony@CIC 22,000]

4 minutes ago, fixyurdivot said:

Oh yea, I recall seeing this reverse carpet cutter tool before and placing the butt of the grip into a cup to push against.  

With the shaft in the vise (with the rubber clamp), it cuts both grip and tape easy peasy. 

[tony@CIC 22,000]

On 9/25/2021 at 10:29 AM, tony@CIC said:

I've never been in a tour van - or on tour but I did stay in a Holiday Inn. My guess would be that the clubs are regripped before they get to the tour event unless something unusual happened. 

Correction to the above comment:

I was watching one of those instructional videos on the Golf Channel which featured Ian Poulter. Not only did he say he installs his own grips but also uses this multilayering technique: One regular length of tape, a second layer which is 2/3's long than a last layer of tape that's 1/3 long.  All of which is done to minimize any tapering of the grip. 

[Kenny B 32,532]

13 minutes ago, tony@CIC said:

Correction to the above comment:

I was watching one of those instructional videos on the Golf Channel which featured Ian Poulter. Not only did he say he installs his own grips but also uses this multilayering technique: One regular length of tape, a second layer which is 2/3's long than a last layer of tape that's 1/3 long.  All of which is done to minimize any tapering of the grip. 

I do that, but in the reverse order.  The last layer is always the longest with extra to tuck into the end of the shaft.  The reason is that the grip can catch on the ends of the short lengths.  I like the last layer to be smooth all the way.

[tony@CIC 22,000]

4 hours ago, Kenny B said:

I do that, but in the reverse order.  The last layer is always the longest with extra to tuck into the end of the shaft.  The reason is that the grip can catch on the ends of the short lengths.  I like the last layer to be smooth all the way.

Great point - I'll have to try that. Just put one  extra (full length) tape on my driver with MCC +4. I couldn't believe that such a thin layer made a difference in feel. 

[fozcycle 15,094]

Played my Hogan Ptx irons last week and decided to regrip them today.   Here’s a pic of the finished product. All Lamkin grips, the white grips are special for wedges, they are a bit longer and have some choke up dots for different chip shots. I also put my Arccos tabs on to try Arccos again.

 

[Bulldog 92]

Nice!  I wish Arccos sensors had a gray band instead of green.  They look ok on your clubs, but on some grips with other colors, they look goofy.

[ole gray 17,652]

On 9/4/2021 at 7:04 PM, fixyurdivot said:

Ok, completed my first DIY regripping project this afternoon.  Easy, beezy, lemon-squeezy!  I replaced the standard size TV360 on my driver, 3w and 5w with the midsize.  I was careful using the hook knife not to slice into the shaft scrim layer.. managed that successfully. The 3w and 5w were the original OEM grips and had spiral tape below.  Those came off quite readily.  The driver shaft took a little more time but not too bad.

I used Blue Painter tape (1.88 width) to make the one wrap and it works perfect at covering the entire circumference without overlap or gap. One of the DIY videos on changing grips with compressed air showed using a tiny bit of grip solvent to aid the process.  I set the regulator to 40 psi and, using short bursts, slid the grip on.  Upon inspection, I noted that it could be twisted a little... No Bueno.

So, I used the air pistol and slid it right back off.  I removed/replace the tape and blew out the grip to dry any residual solvent.  The second install was much better but it still could be twisted towards the butt end.  So, I moved onto the 5w but did not use the solvent... ROCK SOLID and it was not difficult to move into position.  Repeated that wit the driver and it too was good.  So, I grab one of the other grips and re-did the 3w again... perfect.

Now, perhaps the solvent would have eventually evaporated and it would have been fine but my lesson learned is not to use grip solvent - it's not needed.

The GP Align TV midsize (same ones on the new ZX5's) were supposed to have arrived today but didn't.  I'm going to change the original PING ID8 grip on my 56/12 to match the set as I'm loving the new grips.  That will require a little more care getting the "align feature" in the correct position, but using air makes things super easy.

Lastly, I have to mention how crazy quiet the new compressor is.  I opted for the Harbor Freight Fortress, 2 gal/135psi unit (vs. the 1 gal) and it is really well constructed, works great... and really quiet.  If you hate the noise most of the pancake models create, here is the answer .

 

 

That's the exact air compressor I have and love it!  I also love how easy it is to change grips with it. No mess and easy peasy...... 

[mharr 22]

On 9/28/2021 at 11:15 AM, fixyurdivot said:

Another question I have is cut-off technique.  I purchased a DeWalt hook blade knife but, even as careful as I was, noticed I slightly scratched the scrim layer of my driver, 3w & 5w shafts.  Nothing deep enough to cause an issue but it would be nice to find a technique/tool that all but eliminates this concern.

You probably was holding the knife blade at 90º to the shaft.  Hold if off at an angle, 45-60º, so that the blade slides between the grip and the shaft, and the hook can slice the grip.