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Just to clear things up, most iron shafts sold in sets or individually are specific to each iron head or "discrete". That means if you have a 8-iron head, then you need an 8-iron shaft to make it play as intended. The extra length from a replacement shaft is for trimming the butt to your desired playing length only. This is the normal procedure for .355" or taper tip shafts.

.370" or parallel or unitised shafts are a little different in that the tip is trimmed first to get the correct flex for each specific head. These are usually in specific 0.5" increments for each iron and then they too are butt trimmed to the desired playing length.

I would also add that tip trimming is not the same for all .370 parallel shafts.  The amount you cut for an 8-iron can be different depending on the manufacturer and shaft model. 

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I would also add that tip trimming is not the same for all .370 parallel shafts.  The amount you cut for an 8-iron can be different depending on the manufacturer and shaft model. 

 

That's right - it also depends on head weight and hosel depth too. The biggest difference (though not always the case) is that parallel tip shafts tend to be descending in weight and taper tip shafts tend to be constant weight. Naturally there are exceptions to the rule and it is always advisable to build any individual iron or set with the specific parts in mind - but as a general rule of thumb and specifically to address the question raised by the OP - use the right shaft for the right head!!

Once you go down the route of getting an odd shaft to fit an odd iron, you tend to run into problems - not least of which is normally length (or lack of it) and weight (or lack of it) and lastly flex (and too much of it lol!)

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It's a .355 shaft that's going into a .370 head.

Nope!  Don't do it.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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It's a .355 shaft that's going into a .370 head.

 

Generally, that's a no-go. Once you have two components that have a different fit to one another, then you have a problem. The difference in shaft length alone should ring alarm bells. The fact that you are trying to make a square peg fit into a round hole should make you think that this is a bad idea. Once you have two discrepancies - it's time to walk away.

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It's a .355 shaft that's going into a .370 head.

 

 

... Not a problem if ALL shafts are .355 going into .370 hosels with a shim, but as others have said I would not mix and match. 

Driver:   TaylorMade SIM Max ... Diamana Limited 55R
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Gw Titleist T100-S ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
Wedges:  SM6 52* F Grind ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
                 SM7D & SM8M 58* ... Steelfiber 95 r-flex
Putter:  Newport 2.5 at 33.5"
Ball:  TaylorMade TP5

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I gave some wrong info. Shaft would be going into a .355 wedge head. The iron shafts into .370 heads. Oops!

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:callaway-logo-1: XR 16 3W
:mizuno-small: JPX 825 3H 19°
:taylormade-small: RSi1 irons 4-AW
:callaway-logo-1: MD3 54°
:mizuno-small:  S5 58°
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You can't cut a .355 taper shaft down from the tip, those shafts are made for a specific club and flex. If you have a .370 parallel tip shaft, it can be cut down. Just look for the manufacturers tip trimming chart and findthe difference between the 4i and the wedge/9i length. Should be about 2.5 inches difference.

 

If you have a .355 tip and cut it down you will change he characteristics of the shaft and it will not play how you want. Also, it may not fit into the hosel as it is tapered and will get bigger the more you cut off.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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I gave some wrong info. Shaft would be going into a .355 wedge head. The iron shafts into .370 heads. Oops!

It wont fit, even if you cut it down. Since the shaft is .370 it can be cut, but .370 is too big to fit into the .355 head unless you drill out the hosel. I would find a .355 taper tip shaft for a wedge. In the long run it will be best.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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It's a 355 shaft going into a 355 head for the wedge.

 

 

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:taylormade-small: R15 10.5 aldila Rogue Silver 60S
:callaway-logo-1: XR 16 3W
:mizuno-small: JPX 825 3H 19°
:taylormade-small: RSi1 irons 4-AW
:callaway-logo-1: MD3 54°
:mizuno-small:  S5 58°
:cameron-small:  X7M

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It's a 355 shaft going into a 355 head for the wedge.

 

 

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I don't think it will fit even if you cut it down, you will likely have to cut about 2.5" off the tip and the shaft will likely be much larger than .355 at that section. It's not recommended to cut the .355 taper tip shafts anyway, it will change the entire makeup of he shaft, torque, flex, bend point would all change, it would probably feel like a rigid board while swinging. That's my official take on the project. Personally though, if I didn't care about screwing up the shaft, and was doing the work myself, I would figure what have I got to lose, and try it, the worst thing that can happen is that it doesn't work, but at the same time, it might work and you may like it, but it all depends on whether or not you care if the shaft gets jacked up, because if it doesn't work the. The shaft becomes a short walking stick.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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I don't think it will fit even if you cut it down, you will likely have to cut about 2.5" off the tip and the shaft will likely be much larger than .355 at that section. It's not recommended to cut the .355 taper tip shafts anyway, it will change the entire makeup of he shaft, torque, flex, bend point would all change, it would probably feel like a rigid board while swinging. That's my official take on the project. Personally though, if I didn't care about screwing up the shaft, and was doing the work myself, I would figure what have I got to lose, and try it, the worst thing that can happen is that it doesn't work, but at the same time, it might work and you may like it, but it all depends on whether or not you care if the shaft gets jacked up, because if it doesn't work the. The shaft becomes a short walking stick.

I wouldn't have it trimmed from the tip, only the butt. I'm doing none of the work because I have 0 technical ability with this haha nor the time/space for it. Good news is I trust the guy that i'd have do it if I wind up pulling the trigger on the project.

:taylormade-small: R15 10.5 aldila Rogue Silver 60S
:callaway-logo-1: XR 16 3W
:mizuno-small: JPX 825 3H 19°
:taylormade-small: RSi1 irons 4-AW
:callaway-logo-1: MD3 54°
:mizuno-small:  S5 58°
:cameron-small:  X7M

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I am curious with this original topic as well since I am looking into making a single length iron set. So I have to bend and alter each head and change weight of each head to match. What would change about the shaft if I have a 3 irons shaft wanting to cut it and install in a 9 iron. I wouldn't be cutting the tip just the butt end.

 

 

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Driver- Mizuno jpx Ez 9.5(set to low) with Matrix Red tie limited edition masters green with multicompound red platinum 44.5" f3 wood- Adams tight lies 16* Mitsubishi rayon fubuki x flex3-9 irons- Mizuno T-zoid pro irons s300 w sensicores47*, 56* Mizuno s5 wedge white satinPutter- odyssey #9 pro with super stroke 3.0All other clubs have different coloured multi compounds

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Maybe if it's a single length iron set

 

What if it is?

 

 

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Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Driver- Mizuno jpx Ez 9.5(set to low) with Matrix Red tie limited edition masters green with multicompound red platinum 44.5" f3 wood- Adams tight lies 16* Mitsubishi rayon fubuki x flex3-9 irons- Mizuno T-zoid pro irons s300 w sensicores47*, 56* Mizuno s5 wedge white satinPutter- odyssey #9 pro with super stroke 3.0All other clubs have different coloured multi compounds

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Don't take my advice I have no idea lol

Driver- Taylormade M2 9.5 degree 2016 (Fujikara Pro60 S)

Fairway Wood- Taylormade Aeroburner TP (Oban Revenge 65 S)

Hybrid- Ping G 3 Hybrid (Alta 70 X)

Driving Iron- Taylormade Tour Preffered UDI 3 (KBS Tour V)

Irons- 4-PW Mizuno MP64 (Dynamic Gold S300) Standard length/3 degrees upright

Wedges- Titleist Vokey SM5 52 F12,56 F14

Putter- Titleist Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2.5 Silver Mist edition 

Ball- Prov1X 

 

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Don't take my advice I have no idea lol

Aha okay i was hoping for some there is so much info it's hard to figure out what to do

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Driver- Mizuno jpx Ez 9.5(set to low) with Matrix Red tie limited edition masters green with multicompound red platinum 44.5" f3 wood- Adams tight lies 16* Mitsubishi rayon fubuki x flex3-9 irons- Mizuno T-zoid pro irons s300 w sensicores47*, 56* Mizuno s5 wedge white satinPutter- odyssey #9 pro with super stroke 3.0All other clubs have different coloured multi compounds

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I wouldn't have it trimmed from the tip, only the butt. I'm doing none of the work because I have 0 technical ability with this haha nor the time/space for it. Good news is I trust the guy that i'd have do it if I wind up pulling the trigger on the project.

The stiffness comes from the butt end of the shaft(yes I know that sounds bad) , you will end up with a flex similar to a jr. club or that of one of those orange whip things, either way, if you don't mind ruining a 4 iron shaft it can be worth a shot because you just don't know sometimes.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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It's a 355 shaft going into a 355 head for the wedge.

 

 

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I'm confused now.  It sounded like your club heads were .370 and now you are saying that the wedge is .355.  Why would you be buying .355 shafts unless all of your clubs are .355?  You buy the .355 shafts specific for each club head, so why would you buy a .355 3-iron shaft unless you were going to use it for a 3-iron?  Buy only the shafts for the clubs you need.  If the wedge is .355, buy a .355 wedge shaft.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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I'm confused now. It sounded like your club heads were .370 and now you are saying that the wedge is .355. Why would you be buying .355 shafts unless all of your clubs are .355? You buy the .355 shafts specific for each club head, so why would you buy a .355 3-iron shaft unless you were going to use it for a 3-iron? Buy only the shafts for the clubs you need. If the wedge is .355, buy a .355 wedge shaft.

I see where it would be confusing. The shafts are .355 and are being sold 3-PW. My irons are .370. I do not carry a 3 iron so I would have an extra shaft. I carry an MD3 wedge and a Mizuno S5 wedge. I'm buying a single 7 iron shaft to demo before buying the whole set. I figured cutting the 7i shaft down to wedge length wasn't too bad so I'd have the extra 3i shaft that I'd try to put to use.

 

 

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:taylormade-small: R15 10.5 aldila Rogue Silver 60S
:callaway-logo-1: XR 16 3W
:mizuno-small: JPX 825 3H 19°
:taylormade-small: RSi1 irons 4-AW
:callaway-logo-1: MD3 54°
:mizuno-small:  S5 58°
:cameron-small:  X7M

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I'm confused too. Anyway, try it cause you never know, but I don't think it will work that good. It will likely feel like a whip since you will be cutting the stiffness out of the shaft when you trim the butt end.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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