I am looking to unload a set of Ping iE1, blue dot, CFS Stiff, standard lofts & 6i measures at 37.75". These have been used the last two years and are in very good used condition with no issues other than general face wear and bag clatter - no scratches or gouges on the faces or soles. I put on new Ping 5L Cord grips (+1/32", hard to find) this summer and they feel great. I'm getting rid of these after a fitting showed that I need a stiffer & lower launching shaft and that allowed me to justify buying new toys rather than having them re-shafted! $300 $250 SOLD
I played a lot of golf as a kid- my dad was a big golfer and I actually got to play Valhalla a lot as I was a caddy there in high school. I was probably as good as I am now when I was 12 and couldnt hit the ball a full 70% as far as I do now.
I started playing every week this summer and a couple of first rounds that exceeded my expectations got me hooked again. My set consisted of some iron set by the brand "PRIMA" and the OG great big bertha titanium woods
I definitely needed some new irons- they were budget forged cavity irons with graphite shafts from maybe the year 1998- they were like $200 new at the golf shop back when Ping's were like $800
So i hit some clubs- my buddy sold me a set of callaway steelhead xr pro irons for cheap- and I hit them pretty good the few times on the course I used them. Off the tee I hit the 3 iron nearly 15 yards longer with ease (even with 1/2" shorter length steel shaft)
Now I'm struggling with them out of the rough and off the fairway (and off the tee really). I'm sure my swing needs help. But I was killing my buddys taylormade RAC OS irons from like 2003. They have graphite shafts and aer super light compared to the steelhead pro's- they also have a ton of offset next to steelheads- but I hit them really really well. Like I was hitting them so far and high I thought I needed something with a more pro center of gravity
I think I'm dealing with the adjsutment of weight and offset. The steelheads are heavier and have a LOT less offset than irons I'm used to. My normal bad shot is a slice. If I try to use my arms too much or try to ease up on the ball. I've fixed my slice off the tee with driver and can put it out at about 270 pretty consistently with a fade- still cant draw without closing the club face at address- oh yeh- i'm 33 and not in terrible shape or flexibility.
But I am still slicing the steelheads or hooking them when I try to compensate.
I feel like the wide soles of the steelheads are harder to take a divot with and in getting throught he rough. I dont want blade thin soles. But am I correct in feeling like the wide sole makes hitting out of the rough more difficult? I get severely limited distance out of the rough most of the time Then sometime I absolutely crush these irons 15 yards over the green. I'm sure my ball striking isnt great but I was way more consistent with the crappy irons, but I was feeling like my handicap would be at least a 11-14 HC pretty quick once I started rolling some putts and chips a bit better. I was hitting a lot of greens in regulation right when I started playing again (if you dont count the mulligans off the tee until I fixed my driver swing)
Does anyone have advice for switching from offset to non offset irons? And I'm wondering if I should just use irons with some offset or try to overcome it- and I may be struggling with the weight. The steelheads feel super heavy even though they only have xp95 shafts.
offset seems like a slippery slope- like do all my clubs need to be offset? I dont need offset in my driver apparently? though itd probably be nice to not worry about slicing it OB every once in a while.
Sorry for the terribly long post and intro. I dont have the money to get custom fit- or take a bunch of lessons. But i do have some money to buy and sell clubs on ebay or demo them at shops until I find something that works a bit better.
Thanks a bunch!
My Original Jones Black Bag holds:
Driver: Titleist 910 D3 8.5Â° 70g Aldila RIP Stiff
3 Wood: Titleist 917 F3 15Â° 75g Aldila Rogue MAX Stiff
Hybrid: Titleist 818 H1 19Â° 70g Mitsubishi TENSEI Stiff
3 â€“ PW: Miura Forged Retro Blades NS Pro 1050 X-Stiff
Gap: Cleveland RTX-3 V-MG 52Â°/10 TT Dynamic Gold X-100
Sand: Cleveland RTX-3 V-LG 56Â°/8 TT Dynamic Gold X-100
Lob: Cleveland RTX-3 V-LG 60Â°/6 TT Dynamic Gold X-100
Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2
Ball: Titleist Pro V1
â€‹Time for a new Driver, hit 10 balls today with the TS3 and it is hot!
â€‹Irons to follow, debating a progressive set
By Kansas King
I am looking at buying a set of 2009 Callaway X-Forged or Razr X Forged. I played the 2007 X-Forged but since they were non-conforming, I switched to the Bridgestone J38 Dual Pocket Cavity (great clubs). I have the itch to go back to the Callaway forgings due to their weight (D2) (Bridgestone are a D1). Plus, I really like the look and feel of them.
The 2009 X-Forged has grooves that are spaced "normal" but the Razr X Forged has the tightly spaced conforming grooves. Are the tighter grooves good or bad? (I've heard they don't change much) Additionally, does anyone know if the 2009 X-Forged (Version 2 on USGA Conforming Database) from Callaway have conforming grooves. The USGA database says additional testing required (ATR).
If you have any input on how tighter grooves play it would be appreciated. I remember the conversations about it back in the day but I can't seem to find anything about it now.
I'm a 5 handicap FYI.
By GolfSpy Dave
Dave's Putter Profile: The Miura KM-009
"This classic toe-weighted design proves it is possible to match looks with performance."
-Hoyt McGarity, President of Miura Golf.
Miura Makes Great Irons (and Putters!)
Since I've actually never owned a set of Miura irons (sadness), I'm actually going with a bit of faith on the first part of that title above. However, I've never met a person who has bemoaned anything about Miura irons. OK, so maybe I've heard some grumblings about price, which is why I don't own a set of them, but I have never heard anyone talk trash about the irons themselves.
I do have first hand experience with Miura putters though, and to a putter, the build quality has been exceptional. Putters for Miura Golf are not just haphazardly produced to fill that fourteenth spot in the bag. They are a legit Miura product, and they live up to the Miura name. For reference, you can read my takes on the KM-007 and the KM-008 putters by clicking those links.
Today, we are going to take a closer look at the newest Miura Golf putter model, the KM-009.
"Although putters aren't our core focus, the Miura family has never attached their name to any product that did not live up to their extremely high standards."
-Hoyt McGarity, President of Miura Golf.
The KM-009 is not a Cameron 009
Let's get the potential elephant out of the way first. Some of you leading the putter-obsessed lifestyle are well aware that Scotty Cameron makes a 009 model as well. The Miura KM-009 is in no way intended to mirror that putter at all. In this case, KM-009 just happens to be the next number in the putter naming sequence. You saw the KM-007 and KM-008 numbers above, right?
Though both the Cameron 009 and the Miura KM-009 are heel-toe-weighted blades, when you look at the putters, you'll quickly see that their common ancestor was a while back on the putter tree of life. These are cousins, not twins.
With that out of the way, let's explore the looks and play of the KM-009.
The KM-009 is a classic in the looks category. I love the lines of this putter at address. Though the topline is rolled, it still has that overall rectangular profile that I like to see behind the ball.
The one thing that stands out is the thickness of the topline. Here is a shot next to my Vault Anser 2 so you can see just how much thicker the top of the KM-009 is in comparison.
This thicker topline is one of those putter visual elements that some of you will like, and some of you will not like. I had one friend tell me that the thicker top makes it appear closed to him. I don't get that, but the point is that these little visual tweaks will affect each of us a little differently.
The white chrome finish is a bright one in full sun, but not to the point of needing to only look at it indirectly like a high polished stainless finish would require. You are not going to get Twilight-vampire sparkle with the sun overhead, but this finish is a bright one for sure.
In terms of precision, the milling on this putter is pretty darn spectacular. I know that zero Miura fans are shocked at this, but even so, the tightness of the milling really stands out. I love that they have mixed in a bit of flair on the bottom with the giant logo. Most of the putter is subtle; then the bottom gives you BAM. Love that design element. The milled lines on the back corners are a cool aesthetic touch as well.
The KM-009 gave me a bit of a surprise on the course. I anticipated the feel being a bit heavy for my tastes, and it was a bit heavy feeling during the swing. No fault to Muira there, of course. My preferred head weight is around 345g, and the KM-009 weighs in at 360g. The extra weight does make it very stable during the swing, but I just like it a bit lighter. Again, you may go the exact opposite of me on this, preferring the feel of a heavier head.
One aspect of play that sent me back to the spec sheet was the firmness of impact. In a blind taste test, I probably would have said that the KM-009 was made of stainless steel. It's not. The KM-009 is made of mild (carbon) steel, but it feels firmer at impact than what I usually associate with carbon steel. It's carbon though. I did the magnet test to be sure...
The firmness culprit is likely that thick front section. There is a bunch of mass behind the ball at impact, this likely imparting that thicker/firmer feeling at impact. It's a thunker, not a clicker. The firmness is coming from mass, and not metal. Those of you who have rolled the thick-fronted Kronos Touch would know what to expect from the KM-009.
Once you get used to the impact feel, you'll see that the overall feedback is excellent. You can definitely pick up the differences when the ball hits various parts of the face. Just play some dead-off-the-toe putts on those short downhillers, and you will feel how the KM-009 lets you know where the ball hit the face.
All in all, the performance and play of the KM-009 is old school. It relies on shape and metal to roll the ball as opposed to modern materials and fancy groove technologies. It is probably not a putter that will make you immediately better on the greens once you roll it. This is more of a long-term relationship putter. You spend time with it, roll balls with it, discover its nuances, and with the investment in discovery, you will likely find that you have developed an effective putting relationship with this finely-crafted flatstick.
And the price...
Here is where things get crazy. The price on the KM-009 is only $400! Wild stuff there, right? Now before you frugal crusaders attack your keyboards, think about the fact that most premium putters in the market today are above $300, with the new 2018 Scotty Cameron Select line also costing $400. Like it or not, that's what these putters run these days.
I actually thought that the KM-009 would cost more. Miura irons are expensive after all, and the KM-008 was priced at $450...
The thing is, I have a feeling that this putter will be exactly what some golfers are looking for in a market that has not satisfied their needs. Some putterheads are not happy that the last few lines of Camerons have had the face insert, as opposed to being fully milled. The KM-009 is forged mild steel, through and through. Nothing but milled metal here.
Milled putter purists should welcome this one with open arms.
Miura Golf is known for making some of the finest forged irons in golf. Why would their putters be any different? Hopefully you have a Miura dealer near you so you can check out the Miura KM-009 first hand. If you've never rolled one of their putters before, you are in for a treat.
Latest from the Blog
Happy Birthday Today!