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My brother gave me his set of AP1s.  I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip.

 

I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls.  Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt?   Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt?

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My brother gave me his set of AP1s. I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip.

 

I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls. Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt? Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt?

I believe you only want to trim at the butt, otherwise the shaft won't fit in the hosel. You can always add extra wraps at the butt if you need to cut a lot off. That way, the grip will be the right size. Let me know if this helps!

 

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... Taper tips are built to a specific length. IE: 36.5" wedge and 39" 4 iron and you butt trim only. Parallel shafts are all the same length and you trim the tip and then the butt. Putting a 4 iron TT shaft in a PW means you are playing a very weak shaft almost 1.5 full flexes softer in your wedge.

... I would find a set of pullouts to install as the parallel shafts won't fit in the AP2's anyway. Personally I prefer the feel of TT shafts as opposed to parallel as I could never get them to feel the same. DGS300's parallel's trimmed according to True Temper just felt stouter than corresponding DGS300 Taper tips. 

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Chisag is absolutely right. You have a good option and a poor one. Poor option is ream out the hosel to accept a parallel tip shaft, which is not something I would recommend. Good option is find a set of TT shafts to install. Don't cost much in steel so worth a shot

 

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Thanks guys.  I'm debating between Nippon 950GH and Recoil 780ES in stiff. It will come down to price, so the Nippon's but I'm curious if anyone has paired these shafts with Titleist. 

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Thanks guys.  I'm debating between Nippon 950GH and Recoil 780ES in stiff. It will come down to price, so the Nippon's but I'm curious if anyone has paired these shafts with Titleist. 

 

... The Nippons launched very high for me in a set of AP2's. Nice shaft if you are a low ball hitter or need some help getting the ball in the air. I play Recoil 95/110's but have never hit the 780ES. 

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My brother gave me his set of AP1s. I would like to switch out the shafts, which are .355 tip.

 

I am looking to get a set of shaft pulls. Is it true that you only trim tapered shafts at the butt - meaning that you can take a tapered tip previously in a 4 iron and put it into a Gap Wedge by just trimming from the butt? Or do you need to trim from the tip and the butt?

You don't want to take a .355 tip 4 iron and putt it in the GW, it will be like a flimsy whip, since butt trimming that will remove all the stiffness. For .355 tip shafts you buy them for the specific iron. If you are looking for pulls them look for the set makeup that you have, 4-PW, 5-GW, 5-Pw, those configurations, otherwise you won't have the correct shafts for your set. Good luck finding what you are looking for.

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Thanks for all your help.  I wound up installing a new Nippon 950GH in the 8 iron.  I really liked the combo in an AP1. What a fantastic shaft.  

 

I couldn't leave well enough alone, however.  I found some REALLY cheap Ping AWT 2.0 shaft pulls, which are also made by Nippon.  I figured what the heck, I'll try those out at less than $5 a pop before swinging over $25 each for the 950GH.  It will look funny however.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,

 

I know this isn't ideal, but I'll ask anyway.

 

My supplier is running out of XP95 S300 taper shafts and only has #3 and PW shafts left.

 

Is it acceptable to use a #3 TT and tip trim so that it can be installed in say a #7 iron so that the shaft steps are consistent, then butt trim to length? I understand the balance point and shaft weight will be different than a TT #7 iron shaft.

 

I could then purchase his last 2 #3 XP95 S300 shafts and store in case I break a shaft in the set.

 

Cheerz :) :D ;)

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Hi,

 

I know this isn't ideal, but I'll ask anyway.

 

My supplier is running out of XP95 S300 taper shafts and only has #3 and PW shafts left.

 

Is it acceptable to use a #3 TT and tip trim so that it can be installed in say a #7 iron so that the shaft steps are consistent, then butt trim to length? I understand the balance point and shaft weight will be different than a TT #7 iron shaft.

 

I could then purchase his last 2 #3 XP95 S300 shafts and store in case I break a shaft in the set.

 

Cheerz :) :D ;)

 

In short - no you can't.

Like has been said before, each taper tip shaft is discrete to each head - meaning the 3 iron shaft is designed to go in a 3 iron. If you put that shaft into a 7 iron, you are effectively soft-stepping the shaft 4 times, so the flex will play 4 times weaker and you will end up with something softer than regular. Not only that, but once you trim the butt down to 7 iron length you will probably have the grip overlapping the last step on the shaft - not ideal. 

Buy the right shaft for the right head - it's that simple.

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Hi,

 

Thanks for your prompt reply.

 

But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight.

 

I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right.

 

I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter.

 

For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so.

 

As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement.

 

Cheerz :) :D ;)

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Hi,

 

Thanks for your prompt reply.

 

But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight.

 

I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right.

 

I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter.

 

For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so.

 

As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement.

 

Cheerz :) :D ;)

 

Therein lies the problem. If you tip trim a taper shaft like you would a normal parallel shaft, then you have another problem - weight. 

The taper shaft is a constant weight shaft - meaning reardless of trimmed butt length, the overall weight should remain the same through the set. If however you trim the tip off, you have created a lower weight shaft or what is known as descending weight for parallel sets. That affects the final build in terms of weight, flex and frequency by definition.

Regardless of the fact that you can't tell a difference, there is - and it won't be anything like a correct # shaft for the correct # head. Not even close.

Yeah, you can bodge it in to fit like you said, but that's all it ever will be - a bodge.

The folks at TT make particular shafts for a particular reason - otherwise they would save a pile of money and just make one for every club builder to manipulate into some semblance of the correct flex, weight and frequency for the end user.

Seesh.

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  • 7 months later...

Just wondering how the shaft bend profile would compare between a set of taper tip .355 iron shafts vs their .370 parallel tip counterparts.  Same original shaft weight.  Specifically building a single length set to 37”.  So you would have to butt trim only the TT shafts, but trim 3” ( or so) off the parallel tips.  Would those bend profiles look the same and play the same?  

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3 hours ago, TSHGolf said:

Just wondering how the shaft bend profile would compare between a set of taper tip .355 iron shafts vs their .370 parallel tip counterparts.  Same original shaft weight.  Specifically building a single length set to 37”.  So you would have to butt trim only the TT shafts, but trim 3” ( or so) off the parallel tips.  Would those bend profiles look the same and play the same?  

My educated guess would be that no, they will not play exactly the same. Similar, maybe. You'd have to test. 

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  • 7 months later...
Hi,
 
Thanks for your prompt reply.
 
But if you tip trim accordingly so that the steps match the shafts in the set, won't the #3 iron match the set except for shaft weight.
 
I'm an club maker in Australia and have done the above to my own #6 iron using a TT #3 shaft when I snapped the original shaft and notice no difference in feel or flex and hit distance taking into consideration the #5 and #7 shaft is about right.
 
I've extracted the original #6 snapped shaft, aligned 1st lower step, marked original tip location, then tip trimmed the #3 shaft and made a couple 1/4" Dremel cuts on the tip so that the bottom of the shaft conforms to the taper. If I line up all shafts in order, the steps match, distance from ferrule to lower step reduces as clubs get shorter.
 
For the butt end, grip installs without issue as butt is trimmed to length maybe a 1/2" or so.
 
As I said above, not ideal but as shafts are replaced, it's harder to track down a replacement.
 
Cheerz default_smile.png default_biggrin.png default_wink.png
KenMar,

Modifying shafts as you described here is fine as long as the golfer can't tell the difference, and I will admit that many ams will not. However, the club will pay subtly different and may cause it to perform slightly off from the remainder of the set. It's always best to use the shafts the way they are designed to be used. I would suggest you find a comparable brand and model ASAP so you aren't stuck doing this in the future.

BT

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  • 2 months later...

I am looking to reshaft my T300s (4-gap) with Steelfiber 90FC .  The raw shafts come sized 1" longer that the specs on the T300s - ie 7 iron titleist club spec @ 37" and the 7i Aerotech shaft spec @ 38."   My current set was not trimmed and true to the Titleist"(37" - 7i)spec.  I play most of my clubs as "standard" length.

Will butt trimming 1" on each iron effect the swing weight? or the 90CF intended shaftness/performance?

Am I better off trimming or using Aerotech shafts untouched?

 

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21 hours ago, Dokes said:

I am looking to reshaft my T300s (4-gap) with Steelfiber 90FC .  The raw shafts come sized 1" longer that the specs on the T300s - ie 7 iron titleist club spec @ 37" and the 7i Aerotech shaft spec @ 38."   My current set was not trimmed and true to the Titleist"(37" - 7i)spec.  I play most of my clubs as "standard" length.

Will butt trimming 1" on each iron effect the swing weight? or the 90CF intended shaftness/performance?

Am I better off trimming or using Aerotech shafts untouched?

 

Couple of things to consider here:

1) I have not owned Titleist clubs, but quick Googling says that they use .355 taper tips for all of their hosel designs. The SteelFiber fc90s look like they are parallel tip shafts, which won't work in taper tip hosels. Unless you're referring to the fc90cw constant weight taper tips.

2) The 37 inch length of the Titleist 7-iron is the finished playing length. Due to the bottom bore to ground measurement in the iron design (BBGM), the actual length of the shaft will be less than 37 inches. The shafts would have been trimmed to 37 inch final playing length.

It would be assumed that you would trim the finished shafts to the desired playing length regardless of "raw" length. For parallel shafts, the tips are trimmed to match the iron in which the shaft will play, and then butt-trimmed to length. For taper tip shafts, the tips do not require trimming and the shafts are instead only butt-trimmed to length.

I would recommend getting hooked up with a qualified local club fitter who would be able to help you through this process.

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