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Wedges that come with iron set or not?


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I'm curious about advantages/disadvantages to playing the wedges that come with your iron set.  I've never invested in a separate PW or GW, just always used the one included in my iron set.  I've noticed that Cleveland CBX (and possibly others I'm not aware of) are individual wedges targeted toward the guys that play cavity back irons. Am I missing out on an opportunity to save strokes or just stick with the forgiveness built into my cavity back iron set?

WITB

 

Driver: Ping G30 Driver 9* with TFC 419D

3 Wood: Ping G25

5 Wood: Callaway Big Bertha Ti (2005) 18*

Hybrid: Ping G25 20*

Irons: Callaway X Hot 4-SW with True Temper XP95 S300

Wedge: Callaway X Tour Chrome PM 60*

Putter: Seemore Si Black 32"

Ball: Titleist ProV1x

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I will use the PW only out of a set. They are designed to help you hit full shots. They aren't designed for half shots, “creative shots” etc where you need that sole and bounce for sliding through a bunker/rough etc. if you use your SW for everything then it's not an awful idea just to use your standard PW or GW.

 

 

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<p>Knoxville, TN 4 Hdcp Ping G30 9deg loft Ping G25 3 wood Nike Vapor rescue Ping I irons +1 upright Vokey Sm5 52, 56, 60 TM spider with 1.0 super stroke</p>

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Its all a comfort level. If you play well with them, why change. However I always struggled with the high loft wedges that came with the set and upgraded.  Looking that you have a 16 handicap you may benefit from it. If you're new to the game until you get your swing down it doesnt matter what clubs you use (to an extent)

Driver  :titelist-small: TS 2, Hzrdus Smoke Black Stiff 9.5* Setting, A2

Fairway Wood:   :ping-small: G30 Stiff Shaft

Hybrid:   :titelist-small: TS2 19* Hzrdus Smoke Black Stiff shaft

Irons:     :titelist-small: 718 AP1 (4-PW) AMT Red Stiff Shafts 

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX4 52* 56*

Putter:   :cameron-small: Scotty Cameron Golo 5

Right Handed 

Pittsburgh, PA

 

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I've done both. I've opted for a 50* wedge, and I've gone the “set” GW/AW. For me, I liked the set wedge when I had it, but I also like my current 50* that's not a match to the set. I don't get creative with my 50*, so I've never felt like I lost anything by sticking with the set wedge. Edel doesn't make a GW that matches my current set, so only one choice to go with.

 

My 50* is almost always used for full shots, so, I really think I'd be ok either way.

 

 

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Driver: :cobra-small: King F9 Speedback, Xphlexxx Busa 2 Liquid, XX stiff, 45”

Fwy: 

Hybrid: :callaway-small: X2 Hot Pro, 20*, :Fuji: Rombax 8D07HB TM27 X

Irons: :honma:TR20 Tour P 4/5, Tour V 6-10, Dynamic Gold X100

Wedges: Vega VW-06 50*/54*/58*, Dynamic Gold S400

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

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We've had several threads about blended sets so you may wish to review those. My handicap is a bit lower than yours but this isn't always about that.

 

A players club for one or two of your wedges might be a great idea because they are more versatile. You could go something like 45 from your set 50 (players) 55 (from your set) 60 players.

 

You'd want the 55 to be your primary sand, thick rough club in this scenario.

 

Its something nag to talk through with your teacher and then have a short game lesson once you get your wedges set.

 

 

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Ping G410 - turned down to11.25 degrees, neutral setting - Fujikura Motore X R flex

Ping G410 5-9 wood

Wilson D7 forged 6-GW -  Mamiya recoil 460 R flex

SCOR 52,60

EVNRoll ER 5

Titleist Pro VIx optic yellow with revkev stamped on them

Currently testing Edison wedges to replace SCORS that are wearing out. Also auditions for the 14th spot in the bag.  Current possibilities are a Ping 26 degree hybrid - duplicates the 9 wood or 5 iron but would be used almost exclusively for chipping or Tour Exotics 3 wood simply because you can carry 14 clubs and I might occasionally hit it in certain unusual wind conditions once every four or five rounds. 

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All good answers on here as usual. I can say this it is subjective like everything else in golf. You gotta do what fits your comfort level is what I always practice and preach (how's that Rev? LOL). 

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Driver --- Honma G1-X Stock R Flex----  3W Callaway Steelhead UST Pro Force Gold 65 stiff--- 2 iron 1980 Macgregor VIP Nike R flex-------- Irons 3 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex shafts--- SW Cleveland 588 Sensicore S-400-- Putter Rusty Santa Fe Bulls Eye Fluted shaft-- Bag Old School Hoofer I had in the stash--- Goes along with my raggety persona

 

 

 

 

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It seems that it is becoming necessary to go with a true PW outside of a set. As clubs have delofted modern PWs have gone 8-10 degrees stronger. The old ones were around 48 degrees. If your not purchasing extra wedges you could have some odd gaps.

 

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Take Dead Aim

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You could definitely go either way depending on what you are comfortable with.

One piece of advice I think is good is to ask yourself is how you typically use that club. If you typically only use your gap wedge on full shots it probably makes more sense to get one that goes with the set. If you like to use it in a variety of ways, then maybe a specialty wedge is more appropriate.

One thing to keep in mind is that as the lofts have shifted over the years (whether or not this is a good thing is a whole other topic for another thread). So a 9 iron of old is now called a PW. This is how we got the GW in the first place, to fill the gap left by the numbers shifting. I've typically used a set gap wedge but the CB-X wedges you mentioned have got me considering going with one of those for a gap wedge since they are actually cavity backs—I really like the concept of this particular model—I think it makes a whole ton of sense for those of us that like to play cavity backs and particularly GI irons.

 

 

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:cleveland-small: Launcher HB Driver 10.5* | :cleveland-small: Launcher HB 5W | :cleveland-small: Launcher HB 3H and 4H | :cleveland-small: Launcher CBX Irons 5-PW | :cleveland-small: CBX Wedges 50*, 54*, 58* | :cleveland-small: TFI 2135 Cero Putter | :srixon-small: Q Star Balls
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As I reviewed the specs on my irons, I definitely see the stronger lofts you mentioned in the PW and GW.  If I only have a 60* wedge in my bag for sand/rough shots, that leaves a 10 degree gap.

WITB

 

Driver: Ping G30 Driver 9* with TFC 419D

3 Wood: Ping G25

5 Wood: Callaway Big Bertha Ti (2005) 18*

Hybrid: Ping G25 20*

Irons: Callaway X Hot 4-SW with True Temper XP95 S300

Wedge: Callaway X Tour Chrome PM 60*

Putter: Seemore Si Black 32"

Ball: Titleist ProV1x

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I have a wedge question:

 

I have always used the PW that comes with the irons. I use it for a variety of shots from full swing to half swing to bump and run. I tend to be a divot taker more than a picker. What is the optimal sole grind for a club that gets used this way?

 

Also, how do you determine what sole grind best suits your swing and course conditions? There are so many different sole grinds to choose from.... it's very confusing. It would help if wedge manufacturers would give a simple run down on what each grind is for.

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I find these far more useful and versatile than wedges that are part of an iron set or simply having all be conventional wedges ... :rolleyes:

 

 

niblick.jpg  NIBLICK PW

niblick DWandSW.jpg  NIBLICKS (DW & SW)

niblickSW.jpg NIBLICK SW

CG16 60.jpg  CG-16 (LOW BOUNCE) LW

What's in Bobcat's Bag?  (Showing more than 14 clubs due to options)

 

Driver: :taylormade-small: 9.5* SLDR-C - 45.5" Miyazaki Kusala Black 61s, (1/2" tip)

Fairway: :taylormade-small: Tour issue 15* V-Steel 3W - Fujikura 757 Speeder Stiff

Fairway/Hybrid: :taylormade-small: 15* Rescue Fairway "3-Strong" - VP-90 Stiff 

Hybrids: :taylormade-small: #3 (19*) & #4 (22*) Rescue-Mid TP's - Vista Pro 90 Stiff 

Driving Irons: :taylormade-small: UDI #1 (16*) & #3 (20*) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff

Iron Set: :taylormade-small: SLDR Irons (5-8i only) - KBS C-Taper Lite 110 Stiff

Hybrid Wedges: :cleveland-small: 2011 Niblicks 42*PW, 49*DW, 56*SW - Stock

SW/LW: :cleveland-small: CG-16 Black Pearl 58* Low Bounce 8* - Stock Steel Shaft

Putter: :bettinardi-small: BBX-81 Blade - Stock Bettinardi Steel Shaft 

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Like PMookie I've done both. I usually carry 3 wedges not from my iron set but am actually going to order a AW to match my Srixon 765 irons. Those are full shot clubs to me so I'd rather have them match up. I think of 54 degree and up as my "short game" clubs so want those to be more specialized.

 

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:callaway-small: Rogue SZ 10.5 *NEW* Fujikura Pro Green 65 X

:callaway-small: Rogue 15 degree Evnflow Blue 6.5

Back in the Bag :srixon-small: Z765 4-G Nippon Modus 120 Stiff

:vokey-small: 54 and 60

 

:bobby-grace-1: Amazing Grace Ass Kicker

 

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I have a wedge question:

 

I have always used the PW that comes with the irons. I use it for a variety of shots from full swing to half swing to bump and run. I tend to be a divot taker more than a picker. What is the optimal sole grind for a club that gets used this way?

 

Also, how do you determine what sole grind best suits your swing and course conditions? There are so many different sole grinds to choose from.... it's very confusing. It would help if wedge manufacturers would give a simple run down on what each grind is for.

I believe it's low bounce. Good for soft ground and diggers.

 

Cleveland and their 3 dot system was the easiest way for me to remember

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One additional thing that I have read but not verified ....

 

The wedges that come with the set produce slightly lower spin than a specialized wedge.  So even if the lofts are the same the specialized wedge might not fly quite as far.  

Driver - Ping G410 Plus 10.5 - Ping Tour 65 Stiff

4 Wood - Callaway Rogue - Project X Evenflow blue 6.0

Hybrids - Titleist 818 H2 -  3(c-1) and 4(c-4) - Tensei CK Blue 70 stiff

Irons - Callaway Apex  CF 16 5-AW - True Temper XP 95 Steel Stiff

Wedges - Ping Glide 54 SS, 58 TS

Putter - Edel e1 Torque balanced

Indianapolis

5.5 Index

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... As a general rule, wedges that come with the set are more forgiving and produce a higher trajectory. Primarily the reason better players want a separate MB wedge as they flight their wedges lower. I tried using the gw that came with my Fly Z+ but it was harder to control the trajectory. Otoh if you mishit your wedges occasionally, especially on pitches, the lower sole weighting will help you more than a MB style wedge. It just depends on what you want from your wedge. 

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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The PW in my set is 45*, I have never considered not using it from the set, I also carry 3 MD3 wedges in 50,54,58, all are bent 1 degree strong to give 4* gaps.

You have ask is the extra money for a different PW worth it, what will you gain/lose by not using the one from the set, I can hit my PW 135 yards, and it's one of the better clubs that I have in e bag, will I gain much by switching, I don't think I will, but I haven't had he need to try either. Most sets that are purchased or usually 4-PW or 5-PW, or 6-PW and you can add a GW to any of those, I've never seen a set that allows the purchase without the PW.

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Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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... There are quite a few sets today that are sold as 4-gw/dw/aw which of course are the traditional 3-pw sets of the past, they just have a different letter/number on the sole. 

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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... There are quite a few sets today that are sold as 4-gw/dw/aw which of course are the traditional 3-pw sets of the past, they just have a different letter/number on the sole.

Exactly, so if you want a different PW than the set, it costs you the set PW, $100+, then and additional $100+ for the one outside the set, so it needs to be a huge difference IMO to justify the extra cost. Manufacturers won't sell the set without the PW.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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Exactly, so if you want a different PW than the set, it costs you the set PW, $100+, then and additional $100+ for the one outside the set, so it needs to be a huge difference IMO to justify the extra cost. Manufacturers won't sell the set without the PW.

 

 

... While they are not on the shelf, most OEMs will sell you any combination of irons you want as long as they are in their current line up. Go to  https://www.tgw.com/golf-irons  and click on any iron. Then click the Enter Custom Specs above the iron and you can order irons one at a time or in any combination. Most stores don't wanna let you know this because they would rather sell stock on hand, but just about every OEM will sell any combination of clubs you want to order. 

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max ... Diamana Limited 60R
Fairway:  Cobra SZ 14.5* ... Atmos Blue TS 7S
Utility:   Callaway Super Hybrid 17*   ... Diamana Limited 65R
               TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Limited 65R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
                 Mizuno T20 58* ... Nippon 950gh r-flex
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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