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Hooking New Callaway Apex Pro Irons


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Hi everyone, I just joined, and I appreciate the forum.  Cool, just what I was looking for. 

 

I am trying to understand why I am hooking my new Apex Pro Irons.  

 

My previous irons, Taylor Made, I couldn't draw to save my life, payed them straight or with a slight fade.  I was fitted with the Callaway irons and they looked pretty good on the monitor, good feel, 4,000 rpm, pretty straight.

 

The issue I am 6'6" and I play 2 degrees upright, 1.5 inches longer, and jumbo grips.  So what I test isn't exactly what I get.  The shaft is True Temper XP 95, S300.

 

I received the production clubs, and now if I hit a 3/4 shot it goes straight; if I hit a stock stock it draws left of the flag even if I am aligned correctly, and if I hit a full shot, the ball draws well left of the flag.

 

I am a 4 handicap player and generally a very good iron player.  I can't tell if the irons have a draw bias, or if the shaft is wrong.  

 

Any suggestions on what to try, or any experience with Apex Pro irons?  Thanks much,  Rob

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Rob first of all welcome to MGS!  I'm sure some of our members are familiar with the Callaway Apex and can give their view on the new shot shape you are seeing.  

Ping G430 Max Driver 10.5 Degree
Titleist TSR1 4, 5, & 6 Hybrids 
Titleist T350 Irons 7 - W48 
Cleveland
CBX ZipCore  52 56 & 60 Degree Wedges

LAB Mezz Max Broomstick Putter / TPT Shaft  (Platinum @ 45/78)

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

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Welcome aboard!

What's in the bag:
Driver - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
3 Wood (13.5*) - :titleist-small: 980F 
4 Wood (18*) - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
3 Hybrid (19*) - :taylormade-small: RBZ
4i - PW - :wilson_staff_small: D7 Forged - Recoil 760 ( S )
52* - :cleveland-small: CBX
58* - :cleveland-small: CBX Full Face 2
Putter - :ping-small: Craz-e
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Ball -  :titleist-small: AVX
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I Halas the same trouble with those shafts, I switched to a much heavier shaft and I haven't had so much trouble. I am 6'4”, and also play 2* up, and I play 1” long. I never could tell if the ball was going to go straight or hook. When it hooked, it really hooked. It may be the same for you.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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  • 1 month later...

Sounds like you could benefit from a heavier shaft, another thought is take your clubs in and have them checked. I know vendors are pretty good at sending out equipment at the spec that they were ordered but sometimes they are off. On several occasions I've ordered clubs for customers and they will come back in saying they don't feel the same as what they hit in the fitting. I put their clubs in the loft lie machine and they were as far off as 2*!!! that's a huge difference.  Something to think about anyways.

Srixon Z785 8.5* Ventus 7X/Tensei Orange Pro TX70 

Callaway GBB Epic SZ 14* 42.5" Fuji Speeder Pro Tour Spec X 75

Wilson Staff Blades 3-PW TT DG120 X100

Cleveland RTX-RC 50/54/58 

Evnroll  ER2

Srixon  Z star XV

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Hi everyone, I just joined, and I appreciate the forum.  Cool, just what I was looking for. 

 

I am trying to understand why I am hooking my new Apex Pro Irons.  

 

My previous irons, Taylor Made, I couldn't draw to save my life, payed them straight or with a slight fade.  I was fitted with the Callaway irons and they looked pretty good on the monitor, good feel, 4,000 rpm, pretty straight.

 

The issue I am 6'6" and I play 2 degrees upright, 1.5 inches longer, and jumbo grips.  So what I test isn't exactly what I get.  The shaft is True Temper XP 95, S300.

 

I received the production clubs, and now if I hit a 3/4 shot it goes straight; if I hit a stock stock it draws left of the flag even if I am aligned correctly, and if I hit a full shot, the ball draws well left of the flag.

 

I am a 4 handicap player and generally a very good iron player.  I can't tell if the irons have a draw bias, or if the shaft is wrong.  

 

Any suggestions on what to try, or any experience with Apex Pro irons?  Thanks much,  Rob

First, Welcome to MGS. Second, What Taylormade irons did you have previously and what were the length, lie and shaft specs of those?

 

Side question, what iron were you spinning 4,000rpms in your fitting???

*:taylormade-small: Staff Professional*

Driver:  :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (7.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Black 6X Tipped 1" 

3 Wood: :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (14.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Blue 7x Tipped 1"

Driving Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 UDI 2 iron - HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5

4 Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (5-7) :taylormade-small: P7MC - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (8-P) :taylormade-small: P7MB - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Wedges: :taylormade-small: MG3 Black 50.09 / 55.11 - KBS TOUR FLT 130 X

60* Wedge: :taylormade-small: High Toe Raw - KBS Tour 130 X

Putter: 5WoCG8Y.jpg Custom Black ER2 or Custom Black :taylormade-small: Del Monte

Bag:  :taylormade-small: FlexTech Stand Bag

Glove:  :taylormade-small: Tour Preferred Glove

Ball: :taylormade-small: TP5X #11

RangeFinder: :918457628_PrecisionPro: R1 Smart Rangefinder

Instagram: @dpattgolf

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hey, i have the same problem and i cant figure it out.

i play with the apex pro 16 and project x 6.0 (120gram) shaft and i am struggeling to play one straight or fade one. i played the x-forged 13 with the project x psi (112gram) shaft last year and worked on to get a fade swing and was very happy with it, then i get these apex pro and it seem almost impossible to play a fade... and then i pick up my mackdaddy 50 degree and the fade is there?

 

have you or anyone else solved this enigma i would be happy to know :)

 

thank you

 

andreas

 

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Welcome! As Theedpatt said, we need a bit more detail as to your current taylormade make up to make an educated guess as to why your hooking the apex pros. Current shaft and TM model would be helpful as well.

 

MDGolfHacker

TSssWhat's In This Lefty's Bag?

Driver: :titleist-small: TSR2 11° Project X HZRDUS Black 4G 60g 5.5 Flex

Fairway Woods: :cobra-small: F8 3W Project X Even Flow Blue 75g shaft

Fairway Woods: 

Hybrid: :titelist-small: TSR2  18° Graphite Design Tour AD DI-85 Shaft

Irons: :titelist-small: 2021 T200's 4-GW AMT RED shafts Regular Flex

Wedge: :cleveland-small: Tour Satin RTX 4 Wedges in 52° and 56° 2 Dot

Putter: :nevercompromise-small: Gray Matter TDP 2.2 32.75"

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It could be a bunch of things:

1. Your swing with these vs your TM

2. The shaft weight difference

3. Shaft length difference

4. Swing weight difference

5. If your TM were more upright than these, or lie angle difference

6. Closing the face at address/impact due to loft/lie/length/swing

Etc etc etc

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Driver: Ping G430 Max 9*, Ping Tour 70X

Fairway: Ping G425 15*, Ping Tour 70X

Hybrid: Ping G425 22*, Ping Tour 80X

Irons:  Ping i230 4-GW, TT DG X100

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50D/54V/58D:Nippon:Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

Ball: Titleist 2023 AVX

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Hey, thank you all for a warm welcome.

Im sorry i Wasnt clear in My last post.. i used to play callaway x-forged 2013 (some cavity back)

This is the thing and ive narrowed it down a bit:

1. It isnt lie angle. I play with 1 degree flat on both the apex and x-forged. ( even if i play more upright clubs it doesnt matter, can still produce a fade) have tried My friends clubs just to make a point

2. It isnt flex thing. Ive played with either regular Stiff or extra Stiff and have no problem shaping My shots

3. My swingweight is D0 on both xforged and apex , d2 as a standard works as well :)

4. The weight: It could be the weight, but the other way around of what ive been taught. U see, My x forged was with the lighter project x pxi 6.0 shaft, witch weight is 112gram instead of the project x rifle (120 gram) and it should be the other way around, that i overturn the blade of the lighter shaft no?

 

The thing is that ive worked on My fade the whole last season and got it to work Damn well and then i bye new irons and suddenly it went away, then i switched back instantly to the x-forged and voilà! There it was.. mysterious! But the apex is buttersoft so i want to play them but i cant.. Crasy

All i know it is not the common stuff where talking about but i cant seem to solve.. anyway Thanks for the insights

 

 

 

Skickat från min iPhone med MyGolfSpy

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Hmmm this is interesting. Do you have access to a lie and loft machine? If you do maybe there is some difference between the clubs you are missing.

 

Heck maybe it's something as simple as the top line looks different enough that you are closing the club face at address.

 

You could also try hitting some balls with contact tape or Dr. Scolls spray and see if you are striking the ball in different areas.

 

If you figure anything out please let us know, this is very interesting to say the least.

 

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Assuming they both measure with the exact same lie angle, length and the grips are installed straight I would guess its the shaft. I'm not 100% sure but I believe the tip section of the 112gram PXi is actually stiffer than that on the 120gram Rifle shaft even though its 8 grams lighter.

*:taylormade-small: Staff Professional*

Driver:  :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (7.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Black 6X Tipped 1" 

3 Wood: :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (14.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Blue 7x Tipped 1"

Driving Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 UDI 2 iron - HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5

4 Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (5-7) :taylormade-small: P7MC - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (8-P) :taylormade-small: P7MB - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Wedges: :taylormade-small: MG3 Black 50.09 / 55.11 - KBS TOUR FLT 130 X

60* Wedge: :taylormade-small: High Toe Raw - KBS Tour 130 X

Putter: 5WoCG8Y.jpg Custom Black ER2 or Custom Black :taylormade-small: Del Monte

Bag:  :taylormade-small: FlexTech Stand Bag

Glove:  :taylormade-small: Tour Preferred Glove

Ball: :taylormade-small: TP5X #11

RangeFinder: :918457628_PrecisionPro: R1 Smart Rangefinder

Instagram: @dpattgolf

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So this is what i did:

To check 2 things at once i put a line on every ball to see both lie angle and strike on the face and it all looked fine to me... but it might be the stiffer tipsection on the pxi, gona check it out.. thank you

 

 

Skickat från min iPhone med MyGolfSpy

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And to add to this.. it is not that i cant fade the apex pro, it is just that i have to exaggerate the movement so much to produce it... then when i hit my wedges i slice and duoble miss the target and it becomes so apparent that it has nothing to do with my "normal" controle of face to path but something else, but what?

anyways ,.. thinking of just getting a new set of iron instead of trying to fix this,.i mean the season is about start :))

 

thanx

andreas

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Hi Rob,

 

Your ball flight has nothing to do with the brand stamped on your clubhead.  It comes down to physics.  Basically, your clubs are not matched.  The overall mass and MOI of your clubs determines how the clubs behave when swung.  If you tend to create too much of a draw with a particular club, it means that the club is too heavy relative to its MOI.  Similarly, a club that is too light relative to its MOI will induce a fade.  The only way to get this right throughout the set of clubs is to have them matched by the BioMatch method of matching golf clubs.  The method is available on www.rational-golf.com. Even better, let me know your location and I will see if there is an agent in your area. ([email protected])  I have attached some information on BioMatch.

Article Binder.pdf

Best Regards

 

Gisle Solhaug

Chief Executive Manager

 

[email protected]

5519 46th Court W,

Bradenton, Florida 34210

www.rational-golf.com

 

 

 

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Hi Rob,

 

Your ball flight has nothing to do with the brand stamped on your clubhead. It comes down to physics. Basically, your clubs are not matched. The overall mass and MOI of your clubs determines how the clubs behave when swung. If you tend to create too much of a draw with a particular club, it means that the club is too heavy relative to its MOI. Similarly, a club that is too light relative to its MOI will induce a fade. The only way to get this right throughout the set of clubs is to have them matched by the BioMatch method of matching golf clubs. The method is available on www.rational-golf.com. Even better, let me know your location and I will see if there is an agent in your area. ([email protected]) I have attached some information on BioMatch.

So you're guaranteeing you can take any club, counterweight it and make it perfect? Counterweighting doesn't work that way. Adding to the total weight and adjusting the balance point doesn't make a club perfect. It makes it perform differently for different reasons.

 

Asking for a friend of course...

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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Hi Rob,

 

Your ball flight has nothing to do with the brand stamped on your clubhead. It comes down to physics. Basically, your clubs are not matched. The overall mass and MOI of your clubs determines how the clubs behave when swung. If you tend to create too much of a draw with a particular club, it means that the club is too heavy relative to its MOI. Similarly, a club that is too light relative to its MOI will induce a fade. The only way to get this right throughout the set of clubs is to have them matched by the BioMatch method of matching golf clubs. The method is available on www.rational-golf.com. Even better, let me know your location and I will see if there is an agent in your area. ([email protected]) I have attached some information on BioMatch.

Get your snake oil crap out of here
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BS Meter is high with this one

*:taylormade-small: Staff Professional*

Driver:  :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (7.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Black 6X Tipped 1" 

3 Wood: :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus+ (14.25*) - Fujikura Ventus Blue 7x Tipped 1"

Driving Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 UDI 2 iron - HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 100 6.5

4 Iron: :taylormade-small: P790 - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (5-7) :taylormade-small: P7MC - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Irons (8-P) :taylormade-small: P7MB - KBS C-Taper 130 X

Wedges: :taylormade-small: MG3 Black 50.09 / 55.11 - KBS TOUR FLT 130 X

60* Wedge: :taylormade-small: High Toe Raw - KBS Tour 130 X

Putter: 5WoCG8Y.jpg Custom Black ER2 or Custom Black :taylormade-small: Del Monte

Bag:  :taylormade-small: FlexTech Stand Bag

Glove:  :taylormade-small: Tour Preferred Glove

Ball: :taylormade-small: TP5X #11

RangeFinder: :918457628_PrecisionPro: R1 Smart Rangefinder

Instagram: @dpattgolf

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"If you tend to create too much of a draw with a particular club, it means that the club is too heavy relative to its MOI"

 

Ummm. I'm pretty sure a draw means that the face was closed to the path at impact.

 

Or, you know, like too heavy or something

:callaway-small: Rogue SZ 10.5 *NEW* Fujikura Pro Green 65 X

:callaway-small: Rogue 15 degree Evnflow Blue 6.5

Back in the Bag :srixon-small: Z765 4-G Nippon Modus 120 Stiff

:vokey-small: 54 and 60

 

:bobby-grace-1: Amazing Grace Ass Kicker

 

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He disappeared just like he has elsewhere when his method and lack of clubmaking knowledge is questioned. Not surprising.

In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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so mr gisle, im sorry but you have clearly not really read what has beeing said here,.. but yeah the consisting weithing of the club is important but not that drasticly.

anyways,.. i think it is mostly the shafts in this case, i have mostly played the dynamic gold in my career but also pxi shaft so thoose is what im used to ( or what im adapted to) but it can be the clubhead as well as i watched this  fitting video, please have a look, it was a bit interesting that he draws more with some of the clubs ( not offset, i think offset is mostly a "headthing", not so drastic differencies)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dukester, I am sure that at 1.5 inches over standard the fitter/ builder was trying to maintain some sort of normal swingweight by using a lighter shaft. However most ultra light shafts are not designed for the better player. It is a pretty good bet the shaft is off, I would suggest trying something in the 105/110 range. A kbs tour 105 or something like it in another brand. when putting on what I assume (yes I know what that does When I do that) is a larger grip (Bigger guy, bigger grip) the Sw is not that bad and may just help. When doing one shaft if it works then viola you are on your way and if not then you are out only ONE shaft.

 

Ermablixt.The shaft in the forged13 model is made for the aggressive swinger even at lighter weights usually translates into a much more stiff shaft than advertised. Low spin, low trajectory low weight can make for a club that could easily fade for an aggressive swing. where the regular PX may actually play closer to the advertised flex and be much less than that of the PXI series. The added weight is essentially only in the shaft in a swing that is geared to produce a fade could influence shutting the club. Trade out one of the shaft and try it. Or have a club guy look at it and do a blue print of both and just see where the differences lie.

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg Graphite Design XC 6S GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - Makefield VS LH

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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Hi everyone, I just joined, and I appreciate the forum.  Cool, just what I was looking for. 

 

I am trying to understand why I am hooking my new Apex Pro Irons.  

 

My previous irons, Taylor Made, I couldn't draw to save my life, payed them straight or with a slight fade.  I was fitted with the Callaway irons and they looked pretty good on the monitor, good feel, 4,000 rpm, pretty straight.

 

The issue I am 6'6" and I play 2 degrees upright, 1.5 inches longer, and jumbo grips.  So what I test isn't exactly what I get.  The shaft is True Temper XP 95, S300.

 

I received the production clubs, and now if I hit a 3/4 shot it goes straight; if I hit a stock stock it draws left of the flag even if I am aligned correctly, and if I hit a full shot, the ball draws well left of the flag.

 

I am a 4 handicap player and generally a very good iron player.  I can't tell if the irons have a draw bias, or if the shaft is wrong.  

 

Any suggestions on what to try, or any experience with Apex Pro irons?  Thanks much,  Rob

must have sorted it himself as no sign of him in over 3 months..........You're welcome! ;) ;) :)

Driver     Awaiting NEW Driver (after 10 yrs)  
4 Wood   Callaway Big Bertha Steelhead plus 4+  :callaway-small: Callaway shaft in 'Firm' flex

Hybrid     Titleist 910H 19*    :titelist-small:   Diamana ahina 'flower' shaft in 'S'

Irons         Mizuno MP18SC 4-PW   :mizuno-small:  N.S Pro Modus3 Tour 105 in 'S'

Wedges    Callaway Mack Daddy forged in black 50* and 54*  :callaway-small:   KBS Tour in 'R'

Putter        'YES' Tracy 11 C groove 34.5"

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Dukester, I am sure that at 1.5 inches over standard the fitter/ builder was trying to maintain some sort of normal swingweight by using a lighter shaft. However most ultra light shafts are not designed for the better player. It is a pretty good bet the shaft is off, I would suggest trying something in the 105/110 range. A kbs tour 105 or something like it in another brand. when putting on what I assume (yes I know what that does When I do that) is a larger grip (Bigger guy, bigger grip) the Sw is not that bad and may just help. When doing one shaft if it works then viola you are on your way and if not then you are out only ONE shaft.

 

Ermablixt.The shaft in the forged13 model is made for the aggressive swinger even at lighter weights usually translates into a much more stiff shaft than advertised. Low spin, low trajectory low weight can make for a club that could easily fade for an aggressive swing. where the regular PX may actually play closer to the advertised flex and be much less than that of the PXI series. The added weight is essentially only in the shaft in a swing that is geared to produce a fade could influence shutting the club. Trade out one of the shaft and try it. Or have a club guy look at it and do a blue print of both and just see where the differences lie.

Hey thank you:)

I bought a new set of apex MB with the pxi 6.0 shaft and pew,.. everything is back to normal,.. the fade is back, and have no problem of shaping the ball the way i want to,.. but just for fun i ordered a single iron of the apex pro 16 with the pxi shaft just to try out and see if it was just a shaft thing:)

I appriciate the Insight, thank you

Andreas

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

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