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Face angle at address?


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While addressing the ball do you set your clubface open, square, or closed and why?

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While addressing the ball do you set your clubface open, square, or closed and why?

OG I set mine square because I'm more likely to have it square on impact.

 

 

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While addressing the ball do you set your clubface open, square, or closed and why?

I assume you're just talking about standard full/straight shots?

 

Square to my target line. I want it square at impact so why not start there at address and eliminate variables.

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I always try and sit it square, but I've been told a few times that it's actually open. Almost bought one of those magnets that stick on your face and show where you're aimed up.

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Square then with a slight forward press I close the face a little it helps keep my huge left to rights out of my game. Plus I hit the ball too high so it gives me a normal height ball flight.

 

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I always try and sit it square, but I've been told a few times that it's actually open. Almost bought one of those magnets that stick on your face and show where you're aimed up.

 

That's a problem I have all too often.  I think my clubface is square to my target line and it's actually open.  My wife will sometimes reply  with "why is your clubface aimed so far to the right?"  When I square the face up it looks closed.    I think the reason I set up open is I'm trying to combat the pull hooks that creep in.  

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I assume you're just talking about standard full/straight shots?

 

Square to my target line. I want it square at impact so why not start there at address and eliminate variables.

 

Well let's say if you are trying to pick a spot to work the ball back to your target, is your face still aimed down the line or at the spot you picked out?  How about your shoulders, hips, and feet?  Are they consistent with your clubface?

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Well let's say if you are trying to pick a spot to work the ball back to your target, is your face still aimed down the line or at the spot you picked out? How about your shoulders, hips, and feet? Are they consistent with your clubface?

If you're trying to hit a straight shot then yes, everything is aligned. I'll tweak my stance and alignment based on the shot I'm trying to hit. But everything starts from the stock setup
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If I pick a tree say twenty yards to the right of the green and plan on drawing it back this is what I've been doing. My shoulders hips and feet are set towards the green and my clubface is aimed at the tree.  I end up double crossing myself or block pushing the shot. 

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Face is aimed on my start line so it's square to intermediate target.

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If I pick a tree say twenty yards to the right of the green and plan on drawing it back this is what I've been doing. My shoulders hips and feet are set towards the green and my clubface is aimed at the tree. I end up double crossing myself or block pushing the shot.

If you're going by the book, that's not how you'd set up for a draw. You'd want to set up with your body closed to your target (the pin) and your face square to your target line.

 

With your current setup you're setting yourself up for a push fade unless you come to over the top and really close the face - and that's where you get your pull hook

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If you're going by the book, that's not how you'd set up for a draw. You'd want to set up with your body closed to your target (the pin) and your face square to your target line.

 

With your current setup you're setting yourself up for a push fade unless you come to over the top and really close the face - and that's where you get your pull hook

 

 

It's funny you mention this because on my last shot of the day Saturday I set up closed with a square face and absolutely nuked my iron with a slight draw to the middle of the green.  I'll head out tomorrow pre round and work on getting back to this.   Thanks Joe!

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If you're going by the book, that's not how you'd set up for a draw. You'd want to set up with your body closed to your target (the pin) and your face square to your target line.

 

With your current setup you're setting yourself up for a push fade unless you come to over the top and really close the face - and that's where you get your pull hook

This. My natural shot is a draw. I aim the clubface at a target to the right of my actual target, but left of my path.

 

If my ball were sitting in the middle of a clock face and my target was the 12, my face would point to 12:15 and my swing path would be 6:30 to 12:30.

 

Dont ask me to hit a fade. I know the physics of it, but good luck executing it.

 

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MGS broke it down pretty well.

 

https://mygolfspy.com/ball-flight-laws-mygolfspy/

 

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What's in the bag:
Driver - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
3 Wood (13.5*) - :titleist-small: 980F 
4 Wood (18*) - :cobra-small: F8 - Aldila NV Blue 60 ( S )
3 Hybrid (19*) - :taylormade-small: RBZ
4i - PW - :wilson_staff_small: D7 Forged - Recoil 760 ( S )
52* - :cleveland-small: CBX
58* - :cleveland-small: CBX Full Face 2
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Slightly open

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MGS broke it down pretty well.

 

https://mygolfspy.com/ball-flight-laws-mygolfspy/

 

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Great read! 

 

Part of the above link speaks of the clubface:  "This has the biggest influence on starting direction of the ball (often around 70-80%). In fact, a clubface direction which is offline can easily override the swing path of the player. For example, a player may swing the club 3 degrees in-to-out (to the right) and have a clubface which points 3 degrees left – meaning the ball starts to left and moves further to the left."

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With every club except driver I setup square.

 

With driver I set up with the face open.  My rational is that when I'm swinging well I will hit a slight draw.  But I already pull the ball and set up facing right.  I open the face in the hopes the ball will start a little right and draw back to the middle instead of the pull hook.

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With every club except driver I setup square.

 

With driver I set up with the face open.  My rational is that when I'm swinging well I will hit a slight draw.  But I already pull the ball and set up facing right.  I open the face in the hopes the ball will start a little right and draw back to the middle instead of the pull hook.

 

 

I do the same thing with the driver.  I have to be careful not to flip my hands trying to save the shot when aiming right.  If I do that the ducks start quacking. 

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Titleist T350 Irons 7 - W48 
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I generally setup trying to get the face square and then point club down target line. However, my body is generally a little closed so I hit a draw or straight shot. I never setup planning for straight.

 

While I understand the new ball flight laws, I generally have more success if I apply them like the old school way.....clubface at target and body on start line.

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MGS broke it down pretty well.

 

https://mygolfspy.com/ball-flight-laws-mygolfspy/

 

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Thanks for the link - it's something I knew intuitively but the article explained it  in simple terms. 

Left Hand orientation

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When I teach kids the ball flight laws, I like to use two different colored alignment rods, one to represent the club face and one to represent the swing path. That helps them pick it up fairly quickly.

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58* - :cleveland-small: CBX Full Face 2
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OG, do you grip the club while the face is open, of do you grip the club square and then manipulate your wrists to open the face?

 

Joe, sorry it took so long to answer however I played today and my results were not bad.  Ok to answer your question, normally I grip the club square and then manipulate my wrists. 

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Titleist T350 Irons 7 - W48 
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CBX ZipCore  52 56 & 60 Degree Wedges

LAB Mezz Max Broomstick Putter / TPT Shaft  (Platinum @ 45/78)

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

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Joe, sorry it took so long to answer however I played today and my results were not bad. Ok to answer your question, normally I grip the club square and then manipulate my wrists.

That's a huge issue there Bill! Because if you rotate your hands to open the face they're naturally going to want to shut through impact. If you want to try addressing the ball with a slightly open face then open the face and THEN grip the club.
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That's a huge issue there Bill! Because if you rotate your hands to open the face they're naturally going to want to shut through impact. If you want to try addressing the ball with a slightly open face then open the face and THEN grip the club.

 

 

You're right bro....   I'm a gripper and a flipper...  I do need to open the face and then hang on like Steve Stricker.     I would love his simple back and through swing. 

Ping G430 Max Driver 10.5 Degree
Titleist TSR1 4, 5, & 6 Hybrids 
Titleist T350 Irons 7 - W48 
Cleveland
CBX ZipCore  52 56 & 60 Degree Wedges

LAB Mezz Max Broomstick Putter / TPT Shaft  (Platinum @ 45/78)

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

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This is some good stuff. I appreciate the comments. For years I thought my club face was square, but it was pointed out that I'm a little closed. Forward press mostly eliminates it, but I've been so incident with my irons the last couple years, I need to read more stuff like this to look out for.

 

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I set the driver open because my miss is a hook. Most everything else I set up square unless I'm hitting a flop or bunker shot.

 

 

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Square to the target.

 

 

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That's a problem I have all too often. I think my clubface is square to my target line and it's actually open. My wife will sometimes reply with "why is your clubface aimed so far to the right?" When I square the face up it looks closed. I think the reason I set up open is I'm trying to combat the pull hooks that creep in.

I have the opposite problem. I think it's square and it's closed. I'm always trying to be square.

 

 

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