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What happened to my slice[emoji15]

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I went to a driving clinic at our club last night. I was the only one who showed up (they'll think twice about scheduling it July 3rd in the future). It wasn't my normal club instructor but rather his young assistant.

 

He: tell me about your drive.

Me: normal driver path is a fade and occasionally a nasty slice. Both paths always have side spin.

He: how about you irons

Me: generally pretty straight - my go to when the driver is broken

He: ok let's take a look

Me: a few slices later

He: ok let's adjust a couple of things - ball position and a slight change to your grip (to a stronger grip)

Me: a doz drives later holy cr*p most of these went straight and no side spin.

 

15 hours later I'm at the driving range (this morning) hitting my irons and had a revelation. As i was warming up with my irons I noticed that I use a stronger grip with them. No wonder they were consistently straighter than my driver.

 

It's amazing how small tweaks make such a difference in this game.

 

 

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Ironically I have the exact same issue with my driver. I will try the stronger grip next time at the range. Where did you move the ball position?

 

 

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Driver: Callaway XR 16 9*

3 Wood: Callaway XR 16 15*

Hybrid: Callaway XR 16 19*

Irons: Callaway Steelhead XR Pro 4 - AW

Wedges: Callaway PM Grind 56* and 64*

Iron/Wedge Shafts: KBS Stiff Black Chrome Tour

Grips: Super Stroke Cross Comfort - Midsize

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Ironically I have the exact same issue with my driver. I will try the stronger grip next time at the range. Where did you move the ball position?

 

 

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He moved it about 1/4 of the ball to the outside (toe) of the club. I had plenty of ball marks showing I was hitting the ball in the center of the face. So he positioned it just outside.

 

However, keep in mind that This is a fix for my golf swing and may not work for you.

 

 

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He moved it about 1/4 of the ball to the outside (toe) of the club. I had plenty of ball marks showing I was hitting the ball in the center of the face. So he positioned it just outside.

 

However, keep in mind that This is a fix for my golf swing and may not work for you.

 

 

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Ok thank you. A Golf Pro also suggested to me to position the driver where the ball is more toward the toe in order to fix my slice.

 

 

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Driver: Callaway XR 16 9*

3 Wood: Callaway XR 16 15*

Hybrid: Callaway XR 16 19*

Irons: Callaway Steelhead XR Pro 4 - AW

Wedges: Callaway PM Grind 56* and 64*

Iron/Wedge Shafts: KBS Stiff Black Chrome Tour

Grips: Super Stroke Cross Comfort - Midsize

Putter: Odyssey O-works Black 330M, 33" with SS 3.0 Slim

Ball: Callaway Supersoft

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Ok thank you. A Golf Pro also suggested to me to position the driver where the ball is more toward the toe in order to fix my slice.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's interesting - yesterday was the first time I heard that moving the ball closer to the toe might cure or at least reduce it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy


Left Hand orientation

:ping-small: G410 SFT driver 

:cobra-small: F Max 5 wood

:ping-small:  9 wood
:ping-small:  410  Hybrids 22*, 26*
:wilson-small: C300 4i-GP
:cleveland-small:  Wedges RTX 3.0: 52*, 56*
:ping-small: EYE 2 Wedge 60*

:odyssey-small: O Works putter
:918457628_PrecisionPro:NX9-HD

:CaddyTek: - 4 Wheel 
:footjoy-small: - too many shoes to list and so many to buy

:1590477705_SunMountain:

:SuperSpeed: Official Tester 2020   Beginning Driver Speed  - 78

 

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That's interesting - yesterday was the first time I heard that moving the ball closer to the toe might cure or at least reduce it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy

I know right! That seems opposite to me but maybe we are slicing because we are contact more toward the heel with an over the top swing?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Driver: Callaway XR 16 9*

3 Wood: Callaway XR 16 15*

Hybrid: Callaway XR 16 19*

Irons: Callaway Steelhead XR Pro 4 - AW

Wedges: Callaway PM Grind 56* and 64*

Iron/Wedge Shafts: KBS Stiff Black Chrome Tour

Grips: Super Stroke Cross Comfort - Midsize

Putter: Odyssey O-works Black 330M, 33" with SS 3.0 Slim

Ball: Callaway Supersoft

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I'm no instructor by any means but....

I've cured many a slice for guys just like yours was fixed. A slight grip and alignment change and away they go. No slice!!

It's probably the easiest thing to fix in golf I think.


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That's interesting - yesterday was the first time I heard that moving the ball closer to the toe might cure or at least reduce it.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy

With the "bulge and roll" of a driver which is essentially "Twist Face" a strike on the toe makes the ball draw whereas a strike on the heel makes it fade. Lining it up on the toe will put more draw spin on the ball.

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Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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He: ok let's adjust a couple of things - ball position and a slight change to your grip (to a stronger grip)

 

 

It's amazing how small tweaks make such a difference in this game.

 

Here is the way I learned it back when according to all the pictures, life was more monochromatic. Back in the day, we determined swing flaws based on ball flight. I apologize to all you lefties out there. You'll just have to swap right for left.

 

A slice, ball flight starts sorta right and goes way right, is cause by an outside to inside swing path with an open face.

 

A hook, ball flight is starts left and goes more left, is cause by an outside to inside swing path with a closed face.

 

A draw, the ball flight is starts straight and goes to the left, is an inside to outside swing path with a slightly closed face.

 

A fade, the ball flight is starts straight and trails off to the right, is an inside to outside swing path with a slightly open face.

 

You can move the ball forward or backwards in your stance to adjust the swing path, or open or close your stance.

 

Strength your grip (twist your hands farther to the right when you take your grip) and it will close the face. Weakening your grip (twist your hands farther to the left when you take your grip) it will open the face.

 

To adjust your swing path you can either move the ball in your stance. Moving the ball back and or out promotes more of an inside to outside swing. Moving it towards you and forward tend to make you swing more outside to in. 

 

I rarely slice, but if I did, I would move the ball back in my stance and strengthen my grip which is exactly what the instructor told you.  Also, hitting the ball about 1/4" outside the center of the face can create a little more ball speed.

 

I often hook. This happens because I tend to let the ball get too far back in my stance and have too strong of a grip. This is exacerbated by an occasional out to in swing that turns my normal draw ball flight into a massive hook. Last Saturday, I hit a 9 iron 60 yards right of the green. Now that is a hook.

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Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

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Here is the way I learned it back when according to all the pictures, life was more monochromatic. Back in the day, we determined swing flaws based on ball flight.

 

..........

 

To adjust your swing path you can either move the ball in your stance. Moving the ball back and or out promotes more of an inside to outside swing.

..........

Was going to suggest the same thing as the "fix" the instructor was relating to you.

 

And, yeah - it's really interesting how golf is a game of very minute, incremental adjustments!


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With the "bulge and roll" of a driver which is essentially "Twist Face" a strike on the toe makes the ball draw whereas a strike on the heel makes it fade. Lining it up on the toe will put more draw spin on the ball.

 

Yep, fixed my slice by moving the ball back in my stance and addressing the ball more towards the toe. Now if I slice, 99% of the time its because its a heel strike, I just look for the ballmark to confirm and keep on moving. 


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With the "bulge and roll" of a driver which is essentially "Twist Face" a strike on the toe makes the ball draw whereas a strike on the heel makes it fade. Lining it up on the toe will put more draw spin on the ball.

 

Twist Face is Taylormade's new catch phrase that is almost impossible to prove it is really works or not because you would have to hit two drivers exactly the same spot and swing. If we could do that then we wouldn't need Twist Face. But that does not mean the M2 or M4 or whichever one they are claiming has this "new" technology is crap. 

 

I have friends that play these and love them. But my friends that play the newer Pings also love them. I love my old SLDR. And my friend that just bought the newest Callaway for $400 well, he is gaming another friends older Ping G30 and trying to sell me his Epic. (Shaft doesn't fit his swing, but it fits mine, but I don't hit it $400 better than my SLDR, maybe $30) So to each his own.

 

Moving the ball in or out does tend to change the swing plane just a bit. I have been hooking my irons, tried moving the ball forward (hit behind the ball) tried more in to out swing (made my back sore) tried weakening the grip (club felt out of balance) then this morning I remembered this tread and a post that I made.

 

To adjust your swing path you can either move the ball in your stance. Moving the ball back and or out promotes more of an inside to outside swing. Moving it towards you and forward tend to make you swing more outside to in.

 

Moving the ball in creates a more upright swing (easier to fade) and moving it out creates a flatter swing plane (easier to draw).

 

My ball position was too far out. I was swinging in to out, I was closing the club face with my grip. But I was swinging too flat with my irons and the shorter the iron the flatter I was swinging, and thus my normal draw had turned into a hook, and the shorter the club the flatter it got, and the more I hooked. Since I rarely hit a wedge with a full swing, it wasn't hooking more, although still hooking, because I didn't hit it as hard. Thus the 60 yard hook with the 9 iron.

 

I moved the ball closer, and the same distance between my feet, and same grip I was comfortable with and BOOM! No more hook, beautiful ball flight and gained the distance back I had been losing.

 

This was not a major adjustment, but also posted here last night was this jewel.

 

And, yeah - it's really interesting how golf is a game of very minute, incremental adjustments!

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Driver:      :mizuno-small:  ST190G on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Fairway:   :mizuno-small:  ST190TS 15° on Fujikura ATMOS Black

Hybrids     :mizuno-small:  CLK 22 & 25 (set to 20° & 23°) on Fujikura SPEEDER

Irons:     :mizuno-small:  MP5 5-P on True Temper Dynamic Gold

Wedges: :mizuno-small: MP-T5 52*, 56* & 60* on True Temper Dynamic Gold Wedge

Putter:    :cameron-small: 2018 Select Newport 2

Balls:      :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Shoes:     :footjoy-small:

Range Finder: Precision Pro  NX7 Pro

All grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated

 

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Twist Face is Taylormade's new catch phrase that is almost impossible to prove it is really works or not because you would have to hit two drivers exactly the same spot and swing. If we could do that then we wouldn't need Twist Face. But that does not mean the M2 or M4 or whichever one they are claiming has this "new" technology is crap.

Sorry, I should have been clearer, I meant bulge and roll which is on all drivers is what Taylormade is marketing as Twist Face. I was in no way saying that Twist face is better.

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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