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I have played with many different people and almost everyone I talked to wanted the opposite of what they had. All of the faders want draws and all of the drawers wanted fades. All of the high hitters wanted a low flight and all the low hitters want high flights. Do golfers always want what they don't have? I find it a strange mentality to have. If you play something that works, why do you want something that may not work better?

So, what do you play and is it what you wished you played?

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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I think it's a perception thing for some. The concept of draw goes further so faders want the distance. Those with draw want to fade for better control and consistency as a fadexis usually a lot easy to control or has more playable misses. Many thibknthey hitvto high but haven't really seen on how high a tour player hits it and the low hitter knows they can get more distance with some added height

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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The only shot I wish I had that I don't is putting. It's getting there but, if you put the practice in and are serious about golf, learning to move the ball on all directions is a must.

 

I wasn't the greatest junior player. Not the greatest adult player either, but I made it a goal to be able to hit shots on command.

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Read the Bible, Genesis 3, people always s covet what's not theirs. :)

 

I draw the ball, I'm happy drawing the ball, working the ball both ways is over rated I've seen very few people who can successfully do it on the golf course, on demand - and now of course we will see post after post about guys who can hit shots through all nine windows all the time .... But I haven't played with you, I've played in some fairly big tournaments and seen lots of good players and no one that I know chose to work the ball both ways - they picked a shot shape and stuck with it because it's easier to perfect one with a couple of variations (up, down) than be mediocre at five.

 

Of course there are times when I wish I hit fades, like after a period where I haven't played well. That's normal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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My natural shot for years was a fade, but once I started finally getting my weight shifting properly it morphed into a tiny draw without much effort. I don't mind that, but the draw can quickly turn into a massive hook, vs. my fade which never really turned into a banana slice after my first few years of golfing. However, I usually don't know what I'm going to hit until I hit the range before I tee off :D

 

The pro I took lessons with was a firm believer in using the shape you hit the most if you're a weekend duffer, with the least amount of effort. He feeling was that trying to force a different shot shape on the regular, aside from a certain shot you may need out on the course once or twice a round, would mess up your body's idea on what it needed to do to hit the ball towards your target. 

In my  :wilson_staff_small:  carry bag:
:mizuno-small: ST-X 10.5* Kai'li Blue R Flex
:mizuno-small: ST-Z 15* Kai/li Blue R Flex
:mizuno-small: ST-Z 4h Linq Blue R Flex
:cleveland-small: Launcher 5h
:cleveland-small: Launcher CBX 6i-PW
:cleveland-small: CBX 54* & 58*
:cleveland-small: Huntington Beach #10
:bridgestone-small: e12 Contact
CURRENTLY TESTING - Mizuno Long Game

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"The grass is always greener" sums up peoples thoughts I feel.

 

The supermodel that hates some part of her looks.....The rich guy that wants a bigger house/boat/car....the golfer that wants..err..uhm..everything :)

Driver     Awaiting NEW Driver (after 10 yrs)  
4 Wood   Callaway Big Bertha Steelhead plus 4+  :callaway-small: Callaway shaft in 'Firm' flex

Hybrid     Titleist 910H 19*    :titelist-small:   Diamana ahina 'flower' shaft in 'S'

Irons         Mizuno MP18SC 4-PW   :mizuno-small:  N.S Pro Modus3 Tour 105 in 'S'

Wedges    Callaway Mack Daddy forged in black 50* and 54*  :callaway-small:   KBS Tour in 'R'

Putter        'YES' Tracy 11 C groove 34.5"

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Heck I normally hit a fade and I aim to hit that normally, but yesterday I was hitting a draw almost all day. I can force myself to hit a fade when I'm on a draw day but I cannot force myself to hit a draw unless I change a few things up, which sometimes feels weird. I use to want to hit a draw instead of my fade but I learned to enjoy what I naturally hit.

 

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I have played with many different people and almost everyone I talked to wanted the opposite of what they had. All of the faders want draws and all of the drawers wanted fades. All of the high hitters wanted a low flight and all the low hitters want high flights. Do golfers always want what they don't have? I find it a strange mentality to have. If you play something that works, why do you want something that may not work better?

So, what do you play and is it what you wished you played?

It's like a woman's hair. Straight/curly, long/short, red/black/brown/blonde... They always want something other than what they have.

 

 

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Driver: TM M1 9.5*

4W: Wishon bent FLAT

Irons: Mizuno MP20MB

Wedges: 50/55/60 Mizuno

Putter: Evnroll ER2

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I don't think they'd prefer a fade or draw I think it's wanting to be able to work both. That's atleast the dream. Hit the shot I need on call

 

This is me. I normally play a draw.  And I love to play that shot.  But I would pay just about any amount of money to be able to hit a fade as well. I can every now and then, but it's usually completely accidental or it cuts way too much or not nearly enough.  If I ever play a course that demands a fade on most of the holes, I'll be completely screwed.

In my bag:

 

Callaway Epic Subzero with Aldila Rogue Max 75 Stiff shaft

Callaway Rogue Subzero with Project X Evenflow 6.0 75g stiff shaft

Callaway Rogue 3 Hybrid with Aldila Synergy 60 HYB stiff shaft

Callaway Apex irons (4-PW) with True Temper XP 95 stiff shafts

Callaway MD3 wedges (50/54/58)

SeeMore Original FGP

Bridgestone Tour B RX

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My normal shot is a fade (well ok maybe a slice). We have a long par 5 dogleg right. The fairway slopes to the left so for a lefty it accentuates the fade or slice and at the very least could add an extra 40 yds. or worse case water ball. Yeah I wish I had a draw in my bag of tricks just for that hole. 

Left Hand orientation

:taylormade-small:SIM 2 D Max with Fujikura Air Speeder Shaft 

Cobra  Radspeed 3W/RIptide Shaft
:ping-small:  410  Hybrids 22*, 26*

Cobra Speed Zone 6-GP/Recoil ESX 460 F3 Shafts 

:titelist-small: SM7 54* Wedge

:ping-small: Glide 3.0  60* Wedge

:odyssey-small: O Works putter

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EZGO TXT 48v cart
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Golf Balls: Vice Pro Plus 

2020 Official Teste:SuperSpeed: Beginning Driver Speed  - 78

2019 Official Tester :ping-small:  410 Driver

2018 Official Tester :wilson-small: C300

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Yeah, I am with you guys. Play what works for you. I generally play a straight ball but I don't know until I tee off on the first. Most days it is a straight but sometimes it is a draw or cut. I will then adjust my aim if the draw or cut comes. I envy the people that can work it both ways on demand.

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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I have every shot possible, I just don't know when they will show up!

:taylormade-small:     Stealth 2+ 9 (Diamana PD 60 S 45") 

image.png.dee92ef6cebb2ac4a3883744fc248f12.png     Stealth 2+ 15 (Diamana PD 70 S 43")

:ping-small:          G425 19 (Raijin 2.0 85x)

:ping-small:          G425 22 (Raijin 2.0 85x)

:srixon-small:            ZX7 5-9 (KBS C Taper S)

:titleist-small:            Vokey SM9 45 10 F (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 49 08 F (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 55 08 M (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 59 04 T (KBS 610)

:taylormade-small:     Spider GT Splitback 34"

 :titleist-small:           ProV1 #23

Twitter             @THEZIPR23

 

"One thing Golf has taught me, is that my muscles have no memory."

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I used to have a power fade (pronounced "slice"). One year over the winter something must've happened and I was hitting baby draws. Last season I self taught myself how to work a fade. It usually works. Sometimes I over cook it a bit, but that's why no one pays to watch me golf.

 

Personally I prefer my stock shot of a "high" draw. In my head I hit a pretty high ball, but I know compared to scratch or better golfers I'm on the low side.

 

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Back at GB13 it is better to work the ball one way or the other than to hit a straight ball.  It actually makes your target area wider.  Follow me -

 

If I aim down the middle of a fairway that is 40 yards wide and try to hit a straight ball I only have a 20 yard margin of error - I could go left or right - I don't know which way (unless I'm missing the same way 80 percent of time and then I would have to adjust my aim)

 

However, take the same 40 yard fairway and aim inside the right rough line 10 yards - if it doesn't draw no big deal and if it does I have a 30 yard margin or error - I even have 10 yards to the right to allow for the push draw (a common occurrence for someone who regularly plays a draw). 

 

The only tour play that I can recall who successfully hit a straight ball was Calvin Pete - everyone else had a little bend to his shot or in some cases a lot of bend (back in the balata days.)  Guys like Hale Irwin or Fuzzy Zoeller or Bruce (God rest his soul) Lietzke really curved the ball a lot.  Ironically Trevino didn't unless he was trying to - it was just this little baby fade but it always faded - low little cut.  Nicklaus too, for all the talk about his fade it just barely peeled off to the right - high, very high, ridiculously high for that day - little fade.

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Back at GB13 it is better to work the ball one way or the other than to hit a straight ball. It actually makes your target area wider. Follow me -

 

If I aim down the middle of a fairway that is 40 yards wide and try to hit a straight ball I only have a 20 yard margin of error - I could go left or right - I don't know which way (unless I'm missing the same way 80 percent of time and then I would have to adjust my aim)

 

However, take the same 40 yard fairway and aim inside the right rough line 10 yards - if it doesn't draw no big deal and if it does I have a 30 yard margin or error - I even have 10 yards to the right to allow for the push draw (a common occurrence for someone who regularly plays a draw).

 

The only tour play that I can recall who successfully hit a straight ball was Calvin Pete - everyone else had a little bend to his shot or in some cases a lot of bend (back in the balata days.) Guys like Hale Irwin or Fuzzy Zoeller or Bruce (God rest his soul) Lietzke really curved the ball a lot. Ironically Trevino didn't unless he was trying to - it was just this little baby fade but it always faded - low little cut. Nicklaus too, for all the talk about his fade it just barely peeled off to the right - high, very high, ridiculously high for that day - little fade.

Thanks for the logic. My tee shots generally have very low side spin. Maybe 10 feet of curve one way or another. When I miss fairways, side spin is never the issue. I struggle to start the ball on the intended line. My miss is either a pull or a push. I tried to hit a consistent fade earlier this year and still had the same miss. I pulled most things left and didn't get any cut spin. The problem was, I aimed 10 yards off the left and tried to peel it back. I then pulled it 15 yards and ended up in the rough. I would then aim down the middle and pull it 25 yards and still end up in the rough. When hitting at greens, I aim at my target and will most likely pull it or push it. If I pull it 3 yards, it fades 3 yards. If I push it 3 yards, it draws 3 yards. I like what I do with the irons but would like a shape with the driver. I think I will try to have the 10 foot curve go to the right for the next few rounds. I think my problem before was I didn't pick a small enough target and I went for too large of a cut. The logic convinced me. I probably lose 6 of the 9 shots I need to be scratch of the tee.

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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Read the Bible, Genesis 3, people always s covet what's not theirs. :)

 

I draw the ball, I'm happy drawing the ball, working the ball both ways is over rated I've seen very few people who can successfully do it on the golf course, on demand - and now of course we will see post after post about guys who can hit shots through all nine windows all the time .... But I haven't played with you, I've played in some fairly big tournaments and seen lots of good players and no one that I know chose to work the ball both ways - they picked a shot shape and stuck with it because it's easier to perfect one with a couple of variations (up, down) than be mediocre at five.

 

Of course there are times when I wish I hit fades, like after a period where I haven't played well. That's normal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Amen Brother!

My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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I play a draw with pretty much everything except my wedges. I also hit the ball pretty high across the board. Both are what I like to play.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Driver: Ping G430 Max 9*, Ping Tour 70X

Fairway: Ping G425 15*, Ping Tour 70X

Hybrid: Ping G425 22*, Ping Tour 80X

Irons:  Ping i230 4-GW, TT DG X100

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50D/54V/58D:Nippon:Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

Ball: Titleist 2023 AVX

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I have been playing 40 years and have never had a lesson. Just my Dad showing me the basics and me hitting countless golf balls over the years. Up until earlier this year I could count on a left to right fade/slice that I really had no clue how I was doing it. I just swung the club and it happened.

 

Recently there was an article in Golf Digest by Kevin Kistner about how to hit a draw in five minutes. Basically it was adjusting your grip to strong and boom, all of a sudden I am drawing the ball on demand. However, the catch is that I started hooking the ball when I didn't want to.

 

Now I will tell you that using the draw has dropped my handicap from an 8 to a 4 almost overnight because my fade cost me about 20-30 yards off the tee, versus the distance I get with the ability to draw the ball.

 

Honestly, changing to a draw has improved my game tremendously, mostly by adding distance to my shots. Whether I can find the sweet spot in controlling the shot shape is what I am currently working on with my fairway metal and hybrid.

 

I honestly don't care if I ever hit another fade ever again because it was a distance killer for me. The ability to hit a draw or hit it straight when I need to has dramatically increased my confidence in my ball striking. And as I said before, my handicap has gone down to it's lowest ever, which ultimately tells me that I should keep doing this.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

  • :ping-small: G400 Driver
  • :callaway-small: XR 4 Fairway 16.5°
  • :mizuno-small: Fli-Hi Utility Iron - 21°
  • :ping-small: G Series 5-9 irons
  • :titelist-small: :vokey-small: SM7 46°, 50°, 54° & 58°
  • :taylormade-small: Ghost Spider S putter
  • :918457628_PrecisionPro:Nexus Laser Rangefinder
  • Garmin Approach S20 GPS
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I have been playing 40 years and have never had a lesson. Just my Dad showing me the basics and me hitting countless golf balls over the years. Up until earlier this year I could count on a left to right fade/slice that I really had no clue how I was doing it. I just swung the club and it happened.

 

Recently there was an article in Golf Digest by Kevin Kistner about how to hit a draw in five minutes. Basically it was adjusting your grip to strong and boom, all of a sudden I am drawing the ball on demand. However, the catch is that I started hooking the ball when I didn't want to.

 

Now I will tell you that using the draw has dropped my handicap from an 8 to a 4 almost overnight because my fade cost me about 20-30 yards off the tee, versus the distance I get with the ability to draw the ball.

 

Honestly, changing to a draw has improved my game tremendously, mostly by adding distance to my shots. Whether I can find the sweet spot in controlling the shot shape is what I am currently working on with my fairway metal and hybrid.

 

I honestly don't care if I ever hit another fade ever again because it was a distance killer for me. The ability to hit a draw or hit it straight when I need to has dramatically increased my confidence in my ball striking. And as I said before, my handicap has gone down to it's lowest ever, which ultimately tells me that I should keep doing this.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

How much were you fading it? I know a fade takes distance off but 20-30 yards sounds like a lot. I will hit a small fade on occasion but they go within 10 yards of my small draw. With irons there is almost no difference. I like the extra control of the baby cut over the baby draw. The draw gets a little wild for me.

Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff

Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff

Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff

Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff

Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff

Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock

 

 

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I have been playing 40 years and have never had a lesson. Just my Dad showing me the basics and me hitting countless golf balls over the years. Up until earlier this year I could count on a left to right fade/slice that I really had no clue how I was doing it. I just swung the club and it happened.

 

Recently there was an article in Golf Digest by Kevin Kistner about how to hit a draw in five minutes. Basically it was adjusting your grip to strong and boom, all of a sudden I am drawing the ball on demand. However, the catch is that I started hooking the ball when I didn't want to.

 

Now I will tell you that using the draw has dropped my handicap from an 8 to a 4 almost overnight because my fade cost me about 20-30 yards off the tee, versus the distance I get with the ability to draw the ball.

 

Honestly, changing to a draw has improved my game tremendously, mostly by adding distance to my shots. Whether I can find the sweet spot in controlling the shot shape is what I am currently working on with my fairway metal and hybrid.

 

I honestly don't care if I ever hit another fade ever again because it was a distance killer for me. The ability to hit a draw or hit it straight when I need to has dramatically increased my confidence in my ball striking. And as I said before, my handicap has gone down to it's lowest ever, which ultimately tells me that I should keep doing this.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Losing that much distance I would call that more a slice and less of a fade and based on your ability to hit a draw or straight it sounds like the clubface is getting square more often and contact/compression is improved

 

Good thing about a draw is the added run from the spin but it's also less controllable as you noted the hook. The miss with the draw is usually a lot bigger than a true fade.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I normally hit a draw because I normally set up to hit a draw. I changed swings so my choices were draw or nasty hook. This was part of the reason I changed back. Now I can hit draws and fades but normally go with the draw except when the hole calls for a fade.

 

 

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:ping-small:G425 3H on     T P T    POWER 18 Hi Hybrid 

:taylormade-small:P790 Black 4-A 
on :kbs: TGI 80S
 

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I'm a medium flight draw player always have been, but I can put an ok fade on the ball when I have to. I'm happy with my shape and flight honestly.

 

 

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Right Handed

4.5 handicap

Driver: Nike Vapor Flex with Mitsubishi Rayon Fubuki ZT60x5ct S-flex shaft and stock grip.

3-Metal: Nike VRS 15 degree with Mitsubishi Rayon tour issue Diamana S73x5ct X-flex shaft and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grip.

Irons: Ben Hogan PTx 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46 degrees standard length and lie with KBS Tour-V stiff shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips.

Wedges: Ben Hogan TK15 54, 58 degrees with KBS Tour-V X-flex shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips.

Putter: Nike Method Converge B1|01 with Superstroke Flatso 2.0 grip.

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Reminds me of a famous comedy due in the UK (Morecambe and wise) sketch, and I paraphrase...

 

"I hit all the right shots, not necessarily in the right order" :)

Driver     Awaiting NEW Driver (after 10 yrs)  
4 Wood   Callaway Big Bertha Steelhead plus 4+  :callaway-small: Callaway shaft in 'Firm' flex

Hybrid     Titleist 910H 19*    :titelist-small:   Diamana ahina 'flower' shaft in 'S'

Irons         Mizuno MP18SC 4-PW   :mizuno-small:  N.S Pro Modus3 Tour 105 in 'S'

Wedges    Callaway Mack Daddy forged in black 50* and 54*  :callaway-small:   KBS Tour in 'R'

Putter        'YES' Tracy 11 C groove 34.5"

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How much were you fading it? I know a fade takes distance off but 20-30 yards sounds like a lot. I will hit a small fade on occasion but they go within 10 yards of my small draw. With irons there is almost no difference. I like the extra control of the baby cut over the baby draw. The draw gets a little wild for me.

 

 

Losing that much distance I would call that more a slice and less of a fade and based on your ability to hit a draw or straight it sounds like the clubface is getting square more often and contact/compression is improved

 

Good thing about a draw is the added run from the spin but it's also less controllable as you noted the hook. The miss with the draw is usually a lot bigger than a true fade.

Banana ball/slice.  Call it what you will.  It was a dramatic left to right cut, often starting over the edge of the left side of the fairway, and often ending in the right rough.  The good days were when it was a legitimate fade and the ball ended up in the middle of the fairway.  The bad days were when it went the full 90° turn from left to right.

 

I changed several things which added the distance.  Brought the right hand over the top of the grip, which is what Kevin Kistner suggested for me, and then when I actually pulled off the draw I discovered that I was standing too close to the ball.  I took a step back, and WHAM, the ball was easily going right to left, and therein came the hook when I over did it.

 

I'm currently tinkering with both how close I stand to the ball, and making my backswing more flat, instead of straight up and down.  Swinging more like a baseball swing makes it easy to produce a draw or hook.  Swinging straight up and down, which is what I was doing before and standing closer to the ball produces as much fade or slice as you want to produce as well.  It's finding the sweet spot between all of that to hit it mostly straight is my goal at this point.  I don't really care much whether I can turn it either way, but would prefer the straight shot.

 

The other thing this has helped me do is to be able to play dogleg left holes without fear and trying to force a left to right shot shape to some how find the fairway on a hole like that.  Knowing how to produce a draw has made me very confident on those type of holes.

 

Ultimately all of this has improved my scores, and dropped my handicap.  I can't say I have it figured out to where if you put me on the range and told me to fade it and I could do it, or draw it, and I could do that either, but I've got enough feel for how both happens to pull either off 7 out of 10 times.  Obviously I'll still have the misshit and double-cross that occurs when you are trying to do one thing and you end up doing the opposite.  I had that happen on one par 4 last Sunday and I ended up in the trees on the left, when I was trying to cut the ball, and I walked off that green with a nasty little triple bogey.  But when you consider I shot 79, and if you take triple off of that hole I'm down to +4 for the round, I'll take that almost every time.

 

It's all still very new to me, and trying to retrain a 40 year old swing takes some time.  And all of this without a lesson from anyone standing behind me; just Kevin Kistner from a magazine.

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Banana ball/slice. Call it what you will. It was a dramatic left to right cut, often starting over the edge of the left side of the fairway, and often ending in the right rough. The good days were when it was a legitimate fade and the ball ended up in the middle of the fairway. The bad days were when it went the full 90° turn from left to right.

 

I changed several things which added the distance. Brought the right hand over the top of the grip, which is what Kevin Kistner suggested for me, and then when I actually pulled off the draw I discovered that I was standing too close to the ball. I took a step back, and WHAM, the ball was easily going right to left, and therein came the hook when I over did it.

 

I'm currently tinkering with both how close I stand to the ball, and making my backswing more flat, instead of straight up and down. Swinging more like a baseball swing makes it easy to produce a draw or hook. Swinging straight up and down, which is what I was doing before and standing closer to the ball produces as much fade or slice as you want to produce as well. It's finding the sweet spot between all of that to hit it mostly straight is my goal at this point. I don't really care much whether I can turn it either way, but would prefer the straight shot.

 

The other thing this has helped me do is to be able to play dogleg left holes without fear and trying to force a left to right shot shape to some how find the fairway on a hole like that. Knowing how to produce a draw has made me very confident on those type of holes.

 

Ultimately all of this has improved my scores, and dropped my handicap. I can't say I have it figured out to where if you put me on the range and told me to fade it and I could do it, or draw it, and I could do that either, but I've got enough feel for how both happens to pull either off 7 out of 10 times. Obviously I'll still have the misshit and double-cross that occurs when you are trying to do one thing and you end up doing the opposite. I had that happen on one par 4 last Sunday and I ended up in the trees on the left, when I was trying to cut the ball, and I walked off that green with a nasty little triple bogey. But when you consider I shot 79, and if you take triple off of that hole I'm down to +4 for the round, I'll take that almost every time.

 

It's all still very new to me, and trying to retrain a 40 year old swing takes some time. And all of this without a lesson from anyone standing behind me; just Kevin Kistner from a magazine.

Happy for you and that you found a fix that's helped give you some distance back into the game and got the handicap down. Enjoy the new found gains and the journey to get better

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

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Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I can do both, Some days it starts as a draw then later in the round it begins to fade (fatigue probably) I don't purposely try to make The ball do either or, I just go with what I have that day, if I am in trouble where I have to do one of the other then I give it a try, but generally speaking I just play for what the ball is doing. If I am swinging well I will have a draw.

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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