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Shafts


Markelly82

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I wanted to get peoples thoughts on shafts.  I feel like a lot of what people look at are the clubs and not the shafts in the clubs.  When Demoing clubs, do you automatically go with the shaft you normally play, or do you get input from the reps?  

 

I feel like more golfers should put more time and energy into their shafts (said tongue and cheek).  But seriously, I was using the wrong shafts for 4 years and didn't really think much about what shaft was in the club.  When I was asked which shaft I just said, "I don't know, stock."  I finally went to a Titleist ball fitting and the fitter said my back spin numbers were way to high.  He asked what type of shaft I had and I replied I don't know Stiff.  It started getting me thinking more about how important the shafts are. 

 

I used a friends club that had a KBS C-taper X-stiff shaft in it and my jaw dropped with much my ball penetrated through the air.   

 

There are so many shaft options out there, but they're just as important as the clubs being used.  

 

Are you using the right shafts?  

Driver:  :ping-small:   G410 LST, 10.5 *. Even Flow 70G  X-Stiff .5 extended, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

FW Wood:  Titleist  3, 15*, DIamana 70G Stiff ; 5 extended, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

Hybrid:  :taylormade-small:Sim Max 19* Ventus Stiff Shaft, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

:taylormade-small: Sim Max 22* Ventus Stiff Shaft, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

Irons:  :taylormade-small: PSI 5-PW C-Taper 130 X-stiff  

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX-3, 52-56-60*                  

Putter:  :edel-golf-1:  34 Inch E-1 with Pixel insert.  

Golf Ball:     :taylormade-small: TP5

 

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I have been fitted for each set of irons I've had in the last number of years, and each time I've done this, the shafts end-up different. For instance, when fitted for Callaway Apex, the fitter found the best numbers and dispersion with Dynamic Gold S400. When I played Edel irons, I moved to KBS C-Taper Lite, and now I have Project X LZ in my Mizuno irons. With each head, different shafts have been needed to get the desired results. Some folks just "plug-and-play", but I always try to go with which shaft the fitter ends-up finding is best for that specific set of irons. 

Driver: Ping G430 Max 9*, Ping Tour 70X

Fairway: Ping G425 15*, Ping Tour 70X

Hybrid: Ping G425 22*, Ping Tour 80X

Irons:  Ping i230 4-GW, TT DG X100

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50D/54V/58D:Nippon:Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

Ball: Titleist 2023 AVX

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I would say I'm not. I needed new irons really bad and it's not in the budget at all with a single income and 4 kids to support. My buddy hooked me up with his old set. I hit them very well, they are so much better and my ball flight is lower than my old set but I think I could get it down a little more with the right shaft. After getting fit for a dri er in 2012 I swore I would never buy again without being fit but it isn't always an option for folks like me. Lol

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

2020 TESTER Ben Hogan UiHi 18* Utility Iron

Driver:     - Anser - 8.5* - Fujikara Red Blur 005 XStiff - Standard L/L

3W:     - SQ Sumo - Mitsubishi Rayon Diamana Stiff - Standard L/L

Hybrid 3:     - Machspeed - UST Mamiya AXIVCore XStiff -Standard L/L

Irons:      - Idea Black CB3  4-GW - KBS Tour Stiff+ - Standard L/L

Wedges:    - Vokey 52*, 54*, 60* - True Temper Wedge - Standard L/L

Putter:     - Versa Blade - 35in

Ball:      NXT Tour

Bag:  - Ultra Light Cart Bag  

Loc: USA/MD

Handicap: 13

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If I am doing self demo I start with what I've used or know works and then compare others.

 

If getting fit the conversation takes place with fitter with what I use, what I'm trying to accomplish and what I like to naneca few things and then let them find a starting point and thru ball flight, numbers, my feedback let them make tweaks

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I was fit and now have the shaft that was determined to work best for me. I have found that it has improved ball flight, consistency, and distance in my irons.

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

Backups:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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I wanted to get peoples thoughts on shafts.  I feel like a lot of what people look at are the clubs and not the shafts in the clubs.  When Demoing clubs, do you automatically go with the shaft you normally play, or do you get input from the reps?  

 

I feel like more golfers should put more time and energy into their shafts (said tongue and cheek).  But seriously, I was using the wrong shafts for 4 years and didn't really think much about what shaft was in the club.  When I was asked which shaft I just said, "I don't know, stock."  I finally went to a Titleist ball fitting and the fitter said my back spin numbers were way to high.  He asked what type of shaft I had and I replied I don't know Stiff.  It started getting me thinking more about how important the shafts are. 

 

I used a friends club that had a KBS C-taper X-stiff shaft in it and my jaw dropped with much my ball penetrated through the air.   

 

There are so many shaft options out there, but they're just as important as the clubs being used.  

 

Are you using the right shafts?  

 

This is why I like Mizuno's shaft optimizer- I think it does a good job of showing you three options to start with- of course only shaft options mizuno carries. Trialing them out with a fitter may further clean up the choice. At this point in time I could probably use any iron head I want to, but the shaft is my dilemma!

My Mixed-Bag:

 

Driver:      :callaway-small: Mavrik Sub zero, ventus black 7x

Fairway:     Still looking!

Irons:         :mizuno-small:MP-18 MB 4-PW

Wedges:     Miura K Grinds

Putter:       Evnroll 1.2 blade

Ball:        :srixon-small: Z star XV

 

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I was fit and now have the shaft that was determined to work best for me. I have found that it has improved ball flight, consistency, and distance in my irons.

Have you tried the shaft in other heads. I have a shaft or two that I was fit for that don't perform as well in some heads as other shafts.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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It may have been in an MGS video recently about shafts. It was something along the lines "If it can impact ball flight and spin, yes it's important". That certainly applies here.

 

That said, shafts are relegated to the "I don't want to keep up with all the different offerings, I'll let the fitter, or rep, steer me in the right direction" category. Mostly this is for my own sanity. With all the different offerings out there I'm happier if I bury my head in the sand and don't look at gear until I'm looking to replace or add something.

 

I have only gone to one fitting where I've put this into practice. I did ask to start with the shafts I was using at the time for a base line. After that, no input from me and tried anything the rep handed me.

:cobra-small: Cobra King F7+, VA drago 65 X, 9.5*

:cobra-small: Cobra F7 3/4 wood - hzrd red 15.5*

:mizuno-small: MP-63 4-PW 

:cleveland-small: Cleveland 588 Tour Wedge (56*)

OnCore Elixr all day every day

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I've had 3 irons fittings in my life.

1st one gave me some DG lite

2nd one was KBS Tour

Current one PX 5.5

 

For woods I just let the fitter pick for me. I want to tinker and buy from the bay, I'll go for shafts with similar characteristics to what I'm gaming now.

 

I guess I'll just let the pros do their jobs.

:cobra-small: SpeedZone 9* w/ Aldila Rogue Silver 60 S
:callaway-small: X2 Hot 3 Deep 14.5* w/ Aldila Tour Green 75 S
:taylormade-small: JetSpeed 5W 19* w/ Matrix Velox T 69 S OR :adams-small: Super LS 3H 19* w/ Kuro Kage Black 80 S
:mizuno-small: JPX919 Forged 4-PW w/ Modus3 105 S
:titelist-small: Vokey SM7 50/08F, 54/14F & 58/08M w/ Modus3 115 Wedge
:EVNROLL: ER1 34" w/ SuperStroke Fatso 2.0
MfleKCg.jpg Pro / 9dZCgaF.jpgH2NO Lite Cart Bag / :Clicgear: 3.0 / :918457628_PrecisionPro: NX7 Pro LRF

My reviews: MLA Putter // Titleist SM7 // PING i500 // PuttOUT

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I think you will find that there are lots of guys here who were fit for their shafts.

 

Like you I found the Titleist ball fitting extremely helpful. Other than a debacle due to the Mizuno shaft optimizer (sorry fire in the hole I'm not with you on it) I've been in the same shaft type for ten years in my irons - light graphite around 60 grams. I won a set of Wilson C200's in a MGS contest several years back - the graphite offering was a little heavier than what was in my fit C100's.

 

The Titleist guy pointed out that the way the C200's was getting its additional distance was higher launch and less spin - I have a shallow swing that needs more loft and a shaft that produces more spin.

 

So I found a set of G30's with a light aerotech shaft in it - way more spin, way more carry, so more loft, more carry and overall distance, quicker stop.

 

Shaft and clubhead matter - both.

 

My wedge shafts and driver shaft are also fit. I will confess that I wasn't fit for 3w, 4 hybrid and 5 hybrid. 3 wood is the worst club in my bag.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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Seems like I'm always fit into a x100 dynamic gold. I've hit all the others but too much spin and higher than my liking ball flights on the px and kbs tour weight and flex I've tried. I'm close to a tour player in therms of strength and swing speed. I don't always hit it in the center but I can smack it. So usually I need a heavy shaft for dispersion and a stiff flex with a high kick point to knock he spin off and keep the ball flight where I want it.

 

Woods it's a completely different story. I believe all top brands have shafts that fit me. They again need to be heavier and stiffer with high kick points to keep spin down and the ball flight down.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Ben S
Hailing from N Aurora IL

WITB:
Putter: Mizuno by Bettinardi BC1 w/SuperStroke MidSlim 2.0 Flamed finish (1 Degree)
Driver: Ping G – Mitsubishi Diamana Blue 73 X (10.5 Degree)
3 Wood : Callaway Epic Flash – Mitsubishi Tensei AV Blue 75 S (15.5 Degree)
3 Hybrid: Tour Edge CBX 119 – Project X EvenFlow Black 85 S (18 Degree)
3 Hybrid: Ping G – Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro Blue HY 86 S (19 Degree)
4 – GW: Ping i210 - Oban CT-115 X (22.5 - 50 Degrees)
SW: Titleist SM7 S Grind - Tour Chrome - Stock S200 (54 Degree)
LW: Titleist SM7 D Grind - Tour Chrome - Stock S200 (58 Degree)
All Grips:  Winn Dri-Tec Midsize - Gray/Blue w/ 2 extra wraps low hand
Customizing:
Lime Green/Hot Pink Custom Paintfill - all clubs
White ferrules with Blue Stripes from Cell-Parts.net
Irons fitted & built by True Spec Golf
Custom Headcovers from Sunfish Golf
PING White DLX Cart Bag

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Have you tried the shaft in other heads. I have a shaft or two that I was fit for that don't perform as well in some heads as other shafts.

 

 

I was fit at club champion into the shaft so I did try other 6 iron heads into the shafts.  When I was selected for the Wilson C300 Forged testing I elected to put the shaft into those clubs;  it was KBS Tour shafts so they were a stock offering.   I tested the OEM provided C300 Forged as part of the most wanted testing (had the KBS Tour 105 shafts) and I hit mine significantly better.  

 

When they don't work as well in other heads,  it is probably the head dynamics and not the shaft.  If you want a particular head,  I would test shafts in that particular head to see how well they match up. 

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   :taylormade-small:TM-180

Testing:   SPGC_logo.jpg

Backups:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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To answer the root question...YES

 

 

I was "self-fitted" when I originally began building my club set and the data I had at the time was for low-to-moderate swing speeds that called for mid-flex shafts. As I've evolved, my swing speed has increased and true fitting has shown that I need stiff-flex...and that's only the start, but bottom line...

 

 

:ph34r:  B)  :ph34r: 

In my       :ping-small: DLX Cart Bag:
Driver
:    :ping-small: G410 SFT, set to 9.5*, Mitsubishi Tensei CK Orange 60, stiff (MGS Official 2019 Tester)
3W:          :ping-small: G-Series SF TEC, set to 16*, Aldila Tour Blue ATX, 65g, stiff
5W:          :ping-small: G400 SFT, set to 19*, Aldila Tour Blue ATX, 65g, stiff
7W:         :ping-small: G410 SFT, set to 22*. Alta CB 65 Red, stiff

Irons:       :ping-small: GMax, Green Dot, 5-PW, Project X Graphite Blue 6.0, 80-90g , stiff
Wedges: :ping-small: Glide 2.0 Stealth, 50* SS, 54* ES & 60*/8 Forged MGS Special from the Wedge Wizard, Green Dot, Alta CB graphite, 84g, stiff
Putter:     :ping-small: Vault 2.0 B60 Copper, 33", black dot w/GP SNSR grip (PING Sigma 2 Fetch under "see-trials")
Ball:       :Snell: MTB BLACK (MGS Official 2018 Tester for the :Snell: MTB RED)
Shoes:     :footjoy-small:  Classics Tour w/Black Widow Softspikes

Disabled Marine Veteran. Semper Fi!

#No apologies, just Play Your Best
#Powertotheplayers

 

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I was fit at club champion into the shaft so I did try other 6 iron heads into the shafts. When I was selected for the Wilson C300 Forged testing I elected to put the shaft into those clubs; it was KBS Tour shafts so they were a stock offering. I tested the OEM provided C300 Forged as part of the most wanted testing (had the KBS Tour 105 shafts) and I hit mine significantly better.

 

When they don't work as well in other heads, it is probably the head dynamics and not the shaft. If you want a particular head, I would test shafts in that particular head to see how well they match up.

Cool. I agree it's more the head than shaft. I had kbs $ taper in my titleist 718, tried them in p790 and they were fine, swapped to Nippon modus3 120 and the feel bad flight was a noticeable difference

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I was fitted at club champion and it was shaft first and then head. It was against my belief. I knew the shaft was important however I always believed that the combo of head and shaft together made the difference. The fitter there told me that for about 95% of players the shaft will be transferable to any head.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy

:taylormade-small:     Stealth 2+ 9 (Diamana PD 60 S 45") 

image.png.dee92ef6cebb2ac4a3883744fc248f12.png     Stealth 2+ 15 (Diamana PD 70 S 43")

:ping-small:          G425 19 (Raijin 2.0 85x)

:ping-small:          G425 22 (Raijin 2.0 85x)

:srixon-small:            ZX7 5-9 (KBS C Taper S)

:titleist-small:            Vokey SM9 45 10 F (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 49 08 F (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 55 08 M (KBS 610)

 :titleist-small:           Vokey SM9 59 04 T (KBS 610)

:taylormade-small:     Spider GT Splitback 34"

 :titleist-small:           ProV1 #23

Twitter             @THEZIPR23

 

"One thing Golf has taught me, is that my muscles have no memory."

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Most male golfers play a shaft far to stiff for their swing dynamics. Additionally there really is no industry standard for R,S,XS, 5.0,5.5, 6.0, etc...... This is why getting fitted for the avid golfer makes so much since. Keep in mind while the dynamics of your fitted shaft will not change the dynamics of your swing will change over time. Each person is different but as you age you'll probably need a softer shaft (that sounds horrible) unless you want to roll the ball down the fairway.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Miura MB 502 Irons

ping G400 Driver

Cobra F7 3 wood

Mizuno putter

Mizuno Wedges. 

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I didn't get fitted into my Aerotech Steelfiber's they were just included in a great deal in my new irons.

I just got lucky they're a great fit. My goal was less shock on the elbow...

Turns out that combined with the head, they're a fantastic combo, and much more satisfying than the kbs tours in my mp64's To hit, and performance-wise.

 

Driver shaft I did get fitted- and it just keeps getting better

 

:titleist-small: TSr2 on tensi blue stiff

:cobra-small: Speedzone 3-wood on Tensi blue S

:callaway-logo-1: Epic Max 5 and 7 woods on HZRDUS  Reg flex

:callaway-logo-1: Paradym 9 wood on HZRDUS reg flex

:taylormade-small: P770 / P790 combo set on Ventus R-6 shafts 6-AW

:mizuno-small:  T22 Denim Copper 54°, 58° on Kinetic X Trajectory 

:EVNROLL: ER3 or,

:edel-golf-1: E.A.S. #4   (“Fang” or “Adele”)
 

:titelist-small: ProV1x, or, Maxfli Tour X

:callaway-small: .Org 14 cart bag

Adidas Tour 360 , or Sketcher shoes

 

 

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I appreciate the responses.  I enjoy thought provoking conversations.  I know it's hard to get numbers surrounding the shafts used without getting fitted by a pro.  If you have your own GC2 or Flightscope tools, you have the capabilities, but that's highly unlikely.  

 

I know for the majority of lower handicap golfers on the forum, you've already been looking at your numbers.  The question was geared more toward lower handicaps or those that are looking for more consistent flight and distances, but haven't considered the shafts to be the culprit. 

 

I fully admit, I need to be fitted for my 3 wood shaft.  At times, I can hook the crap out of the thing.  I figured the shaft may be one of the causes.  I don't have a bad hook with any of my other clubs.  Ultimately, I wish the cost for getting fitted wasn't so price.  I really wish the cost surrounding clubs wasn't so costly.       

Driver:  :ping-small:   G410 LST, 10.5 *. Even Flow 70G  X-Stiff .5 extended, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

FW Wood:  Titleist  3, 15*, DIamana 70G Stiff ; 5 extended, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

Hybrid:  :taylormade-small:Sim Max 19* Ventus Stiff Shaft, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

:taylormade-small: Sim Max 22* Ventus Stiff Shaft, Golf Pride MCC Align Grip

Irons:  :taylormade-small: PSI 5-PW C-Taper 130 X-stiff  

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: RTX-3, 52-56-60*                  

Putter:  :edel-golf-1:  34 Inch E-1 with Pixel insert.  

Golf Ball:     :taylormade-small: TP5

 

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I appreciate the responses.  I enjoy thought provoking conversations.  I know it's hard to get numbers surrounding the shafts used without getting fitted by a pro.  If you have your own GC2 or Flightscope tools, you have the capabilities, but that's highly unlikely.  

 

I know for the majority of lower handicap golfers on the forum, you've already been looking at your numbers.  The question was geared more toward lower handicaps or those that are looking for more consistent flight and distances, but haven't considered the shafts to be the culprit. 

 

I fully admit, I need to be fitted for my 3 wood shaft.  At times, I can hook the crap out of the thing.  I figured the shaft may be one of the causes.  I don't have a bad hook with any of my other clubs.  Ultimately, I wish the cost for getting fitted wasn't so price.  I really wish the cost surrounding clubs wasn't so costly.       

 

A shaft, regardless of how good it is, can't save your ball flight from a bad swing. However, a bad shaft can ruin a good swing. 

 

I just changed out my 3 wood shaft from an Aldila Tour Green (something that I thought was great for my swing) and into a Hzrdus Black. The pulls are gone and the fades are minimal. Very rarely is a club head to blame for bad shots. You might have a club head that spins too much, has too much/not enough offset, improper weighting, etc but the shaft can really do some damage to your game if you are out there throwing in shafts and hoping one works. 

 

My last driver fitting was a real eye-opener. The fitter wouldn't recommend a shaft until it performed well in multiple heads. Before he told me the Oban Kyoshi Black was the top pick, I hit it in my gamer, the G400 LST and the Rogue Sub Zero. There were slight differences in spin and carry yardage, but the dispersion among the three heads were nearly identical. 

 

How you swing will determine which shafts will work out best for you. How hard you swing, load the shaft and desired ball flight will determine where you should be looking. DG is a fine shaft but I load the shaft quite a bit and found out that the KBS C-Taper S+ is a better shaft for my swing. I played DG X100s for over a decade and it wasn't until this past spring that I started playing the KBS after a fitting. Now, my ball flight is a good bit higher, but the spin is down and my dispersion has really narrowed = more GIRs = more confidence in swing. Yes, the C-Taper is a stiffer/harsher feeling shaft, but the LM numbers tell me it's the one. 

 

If I had the funds (and a wife that didn't care if I spent our home renovation budget on more golf stuff) I'd go with the Oban steel CT iron shafts. Those are some ridiculously good shafts.

Cobra Connect 5 Competitor - Team Chad

  • :cobra-small: King Radspeed 10.5* w/ Hzrdus RDX Blue 60 6.5 tipped 1/2" - Peacoat/Red
  • :cobra-small: King Radspeed Big Tour 3 Wood w/ Hzrdus RDX Blue 70 6.5 Tipped 1/2"
  • :cobra-small: King Radspeed Tour 5 Wood w/ Motore X F1 70 X Flex 
  • :cobra-small: King Utility 4 21* w/ Tensei Pro White 100 X Flex
  • :cobra-small: King Tour MIM Copper Irons 5-G w/ AMT White X100 Onyx
  • :cobra-small: King MIM Black Wedges 55* & 60* w/ AMT White X100 Onyx
  • :taylormade-small: Spider SR
  • :titelist-small: Pro V1x Left Dash
  • Lefty
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IMO shaft fitting is just as important as club fitting. Try finding someone who builds clubs and frequency matches your shafts. I say this because you can't trust that what the label on the shaft says is accurate. One OEM's stiff is another's regular and so on so forth. A good club fitter will take the time to put you in a club, and shaft, that fits your swing.

 

I also recommend an outdoor fitting. I hate hitting balls in a bay, for some reason I never hit the ball very well, and hitting outside helps you make sure the ball is coming out at the launch angle you want. Simulators have a tough time replicating "real world" ball flights. 

 

Just my opinion of course. 

Driver - Callaway Rogue Sub Zero 9.5* - set down 1* neutral - with Paderson Kinetixx Ballistic Tip TP shaft in extra stiff flex

 

Hybrid - Titleist 818 H1 19* - with Mitsubishi Tensei White shaft in stiff flex

 

Irons - Mizuno MP-18 MMC Fli-Hi 4 iron - Nippon N.S. Pro Modus Tour 120 Stiff

           Mizuno MP-18 MMC 5-PW - Nippon N.S. Pro Modus Tour 120 Stiff

 

Wedges - Titleist Vokey SM6 50*, 54*, 58*

 

Putter - Bettinardi BB1 and Scotty Cameron Futura X

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I know I'm a terrible person to answer this because the only shafts that I've ever been fitted to were for my irons... and I got fitted into the S400's, which are not what I ended up with. If I had the money, I would definitely get a full bag fitting because I know how important it is. Right now though, putting money into actually playing golf is more important than putting money into my equipment.

Bag Makeup:

Grips: Pure Pro Midsize

Driver: Ping G25 - Ping TFC-800d Stiff

Fairway: Taylormade V-Steel 15* - Aldila VooDoo SVS6

Hybrid: Taylormade Rescue TP 20* - Aldila Rip 85 X

Iron Set: Ping S56 Red Dot (4-PW) - TrueTemper S300 Standard Length

Wedges: 52.08 Mizuno MP-R12, 56.13 and 60.10 Callaway PM Grind - KBS Tour V

Putter: 33" Ping Anser Milled 5 - Golf Pride Tour SNSR 104 Pistol

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Interesting thread here. I've played the DG S300's in two different sets of irons. And the S200's in some wedges, and KBS Tour and Tour V's in some wedges.

 

The KBS' are both high launch for me, moon balls. Hard to flight them, it can be done but my clubs design and the shaft combo just want to go high, and I hate it. I lose a ton of distance with the KBS tours.

 

The S300's were a low mid flight for me, and from what I remember I could actually feel the clubhead. The KBS' have no feel for me.

 

Same goes for the S200's, in the cobra wedges I had I couldn't tell where the club was, or have any feel it was like swinging a piece of oak.

 

The XW-1 wedges I'm testing have the DG Spinner, so you'll have to wait till that thread goes live to hear my thoughts on those. Spoiler.... ah never mind you guys can wait.

 

But I am planning on giving the Mizuno Shaft Optimizer a go to see what it says the next time I'm in civilization.

 

I may order a DG Tour issue 6 iron shaft and have it put in my 8 iron to see what kind of flight and dispersion I get. Should soften it up enough for some feel yet keep the lower ball flight. What would I have to lose? Maybe I'll just order a new 6 iron with a 2x soft stepped x100 to make it easier.

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I know I'm a terrible person to answer this because the only shafts that I've ever been fitted to were for my irons... and I got fitted into the S400's, which are not what I ended up with. If I had the money, I would definitely get a full bag fitting because I know how important it is. Right now though, putting money into actually playing golf is more important than putting money into my equipment.

...And you are a 1.7 handicap without being fitted. Interesting. I can't possibly be the only guy here wondering just how important getting fit really is..... even though I would like to do it.

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...And you are a 1.7 handicap without being fitted. Interesting. I can't possibly be the only guy here wondering just how important getting fit really is..... even though I would like to do it.

Well, my iron shafts are super close to what would fit me best, so I still feel very comfortable with them (especially with the scoring clubs). But with them being a little soft, my timing on my long irons can get off occasionally. And on my woods, my shafts just promote a little higher launch and spin than I would prefer, so I might be losing a couple yards, but it's easily playable on courses that are less than 6500 yds. I know I'm playing equipment that is at least close to what I would fit into, so I make it work. Everyone can benefit from proper fitting golf clubs, but it's really important for people who have no idea what their numbers are/ should be throughout the bag.

Bag Makeup:

Grips: Pure Pro Midsize

Driver: Ping G25 - Ping TFC-800d Stiff

Fairway: Taylormade V-Steel 15* - Aldila VooDoo SVS6

Hybrid: Taylormade Rescue TP 20* - Aldila Rip 85 X

Iron Set: Ping S56 Red Dot (4-PW) - TrueTemper S300 Standard Length

Wedges: 52.08 Mizuno MP-R12, 56.13 and 60.10 Callaway PM Grind - KBS Tour V

Putter: 33" Ping Anser Milled 5 - Golf Pride Tour SNSR 104 Pistol

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With irons I've typically stuck with the KBS Tour after I was fit for it about 8 years ago. I was recently fit into the C-Taper but just prefer the feel of the Tour. I will probably do a more comprehensive fitting when my current set wears out to see if I can improve my numbers at all.

 

Woods are a different story. I used to always buy used woods because it was all I had the budget for so I'd end up self fitting with very limited options. More than a few times my self fitting didn't go so well on course so I've been doing whatever the fitter tells me on driver shafts for a while.

 

My only issue with shaft fittings so far has been fitters hesitancy to have me try anything other than a stock option. I'll happily pay the upcharge if a more premium shaft option will give me better results. Maybe the stock offering really is better for me in some cases, but let me at least hit the thing to find out.

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I agree very much with the importance of shafts which is why buying used clubs isn't a bargain for me. 

 

Setup makes them as expensive as new clubs ordered to my specs. 

 

And I'm not even a particularly good player.

 

I just have to quiet down the equipment concerns in my head before I can even play at my own level.  You've probably ascertained that from reading my posts.

 

If I buy new or used numbered irons, for example,  then the wedges or driving iron that I use with them must be shafted and gripped to match.  Our pro loved that quirk in my head. A little extra workshop income for him.

 

It's probably stupid, but then no one (with the possible exception of my maternal grandmother) has ever accused me of being smart. And she had good things to say about everybody she ever met--even more so after you praised her pasta sauce which you definitely would.

 

   One really big problem has been clubs with oddball shafts.

 

Shaft-over-hosel models were popular in the 70s, but those club heads are pretty useless now.  Same with Wilson's "fat shaft" later on.

 

The one that bugs me the most, however, was the .400 tip Fenwick shafts on the Top Fflite Intimidator 400 fairway woods. 

 

Spalding was for decades a major player in golf equipment, and one of their very last great designs, the Intimidator 400 fairway wood, suffered from that shaft choice. 

 

Lee Trevino himself was highly involved with the design of that club head.  I've got two of them, a 21º 5-wood and a 25º 7-wood, and either of them will launch the ball from virtually any lie. 

 

That sounds like hyperbole, but I'm serious.  I just can't make them match a stronger metalwood in my set because of those stupid shafts from a fishing pole company. 

 

If I were still playing golf, or if I get to play again, then the UST Recoil 95 would probably take over from the Aldila NV Pro 105 as my iron, wedge, and driving iron shaft.  Only because Aldila discontinued that really great iron shaft.

 

A substitute for the Penley Graphite Light wood shaft, on the other hand, has yet to be discovered from this decrepit linkster. 

 

 

 

 

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I am new to golf and went to a free fitting at the local club and was told that with my current swing speed to start with a senior flex (I am 52) but be prepared to change as I improve

New golf addict, high handicap but improving weekly. Play 2 times a week and go to the range 2 times a week. Average round is down to 108. Used taylormade irons, Dunlap driver, cheap Ray cook putter. Starting to realize that equipment and balls are starting to make a difference.

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I forgot to add, my new (to me, but lightly used) irons were not fit to me, but were expensively fit to their previous owner.

I'm not a shaft guy, and have never been “fit”for shafts, other than the guys at whatever golf store Telling me I need “stiff” shafts.

My driver was fit though by mapping about 10 shots with about 6 different shafts.

And it's been a beast since birth but I digress...

 

As I said my irons weren't fit to me, but, they're a great fit, purely by luck.

They are the Aerotech Steelfiber i110cw's

 

Now what's interesting about these irons is that they are a full matching set.

When I say full, I mean 4,5,6,7,8,9,PW, W, 54°,58°

That's 10 irons with all the same matching shaft, and they're all gapped accordingly too.

 

So it just happens by the grace of God that they're perfect for me , and I get a lot of comments from my friends about the ball flight looking so “majestic” and blah blah blah....

 

But no irons in my past have ever flown so well nor been so effortless to swing and hit.

So yes I was very Lucky to acquire these clubs with these shafts.

 

But it's clearly obvious that the shafts are a HUGE part of these magical stix. My hdcp has dropped significantly since I got these, as well as getting my fitted driver.

 

Final analysis :

 

Shafts are the engine that drives the car. If you're super serious about getting your scores down, and have some serious bank (because I'm guessing my irons cost the original buyer quite the pretty penny), then I would wade into the fitting pool.

 

And while you're at it, do the same rundown on iron heads. Because there is another rabbit hole to go down!

 

Gitter done!

 

:titleist-small: TSr2 on tensi blue stiff

:cobra-small: Speedzone 3-wood on Tensi blue S

:callaway-logo-1: Epic Max 5 and 7 woods on HZRDUS  Reg flex

:callaway-logo-1: Paradym 9 wood on HZRDUS reg flex

:taylormade-small: P770 / P790 combo set on Ventus R-6 shafts 6-AW

:mizuno-small:  T22 Denim Copper 54°, 58° on Kinetic X Trajectory 

:EVNROLL: ER3 or,

:edel-golf-1: E.A.S. #4   (“Fang” or “Adele”)
 

:titelist-small: ProV1x, or, Maxfli Tour X

:callaway-small: .Org 14 cart bag

Adidas Tour 360 , or Sketcher shoes

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been 'fitted' for driver shafts several times over the last number of years. It wasn't until last year that I got an iron shaft fitting from a high quality fitter. What a difference it made. I went from DGS300s for almost all of my golfing career to the KBS Tour V 110 Stiffs. Ball flight now hits the windows I want and I can feel the club head better than ever.

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I too just recently completed an iron fitting (LM data shared in my Former Ping Eye 2 Players thread). My PE2's have the factory Ping ZZ-lite regular flex shafts and the ones I was fitted with are the Project X 5.5.  He is also recommending changing to standard vs. the +1/2 length. I also had a less detailed fitting at a Ping demo in Yuma, and he likewise recommended that shaft on the G400 irons.  I forgot to ask them how the Project X 5.5 compares to the factory ZZ-lite - anyone know? 

 

Found info on descriptions, and that X100, Z-Z65, and DG are similar, but not direct comparison to PX.

 

http://community.pinggolf.com/community/index.cfm?page=knowledge_display&knowledge_id=431

:ping-small: G410 Plus, 9 Degree Driver 

:ping-small: G400 SFT, 16 Degree 3w

:ping-small: G400 SFT, 19 Degree 5w

:srixon-small:  ZX5 Irons 4-AW 

:ping-small: Glide 2.0 56 Degree SW   (removed from double secret probation 😍)

:EVNROLL: ER5v Putter  (Evnroll ER5v Official Review)

:odyssey-small: AI-One Milled Seven T CH (Currently Under Product Test)

 

 

 

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