Jump to content

Shaft removal


Recommended Posts

So I have been building clubs for a while now and sometimes enjoy it more than actually playing the game. (Don't tell my wife that.) But there is one part that is still giving me troubles. Every time I try to pull a graphite shaft out of a club I end up breaking the tip off and have to drill the hosel out. I don't have a shaft puller which I know is the best way to fix the problem but am looking for some other suggestions on how to do this without buying a shaft puller.

I have tried using a heat gun and torch with the same results. Anybody have any advice?


Sent from my LGUS992 using MyGolfSpy mobile app

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You really have to have a shaft puller with graphite.  You can build your own if budget is tight.  I did this one: https://www.tutelman.com/golf/measure/shaftPuller.php

  • Like 1

Woods:  :callaway-small: Mavrik Sub Zero 9*, Ventus Blue 6S / :taylormade-small: M5, 15* & 19*, both Diamana Thump 75S
Hybrid: :ping-small: G425 4H (22*), 5H (26*), Ventus Blue 7S  

Irons: :taylormade-small:M6, 5-GW, Accra 80i S
Wedges: :cleveland-small: CBX 2, 55*, 60*, Accra 80i S
Putter: :EVNROLL: ER1.2, 355g, KBS CT Tour, 33", :edel-golf-1: Slim Round grip
Ball: Maxfli Tour
Bag/Cart: '20 :nike-small:Air Hybrid 2 / :Clicgear: 4.0
Accessories: :Arccos:360 / :skycaddie: SX 400 / Nikon Coolshot Pro Stabilized

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shaft puller is a must for graphite; it has to come straight off, no twisting.

  • Like 1

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What they said, if you don't use one you'll forever be breaking shafts.

In the bag:
Driver: :titelist-small: TSi2 Project X HZRDUS Smoke Black RDX 6.0
Fairway: :Sub70: 939X 15° Project X Even Flow Blue 6.0

Hybrid: :Sub70: 949X Pro 2 Hybrid Project X Even Flow Riptide 6.0
Hybrid: :Sub70: 939X 3 Hybrid Project X Even Flow Riptide 6.0
Irons: :wilson_staff_small: D7 Forged 4-GW Project X Catalyst 80 6.0
Wedge: :cleveland-small: Smartsole S
Putter :Sub70: Sycamore 005 Wide Blade
:Ogio: Alpha Convoy 514
Balls::Snell: MTB-X or Black

Cart: :CaddyTek: CaddyLite ONE Ver. 8

God Bless America🇺🇸, God save the Queen🇬🇧, God defend New Zealand🇳🇿 and thank Christ for Australia🇦🇺!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

not being a smart a$$ - don't. if you don't have a puller you risk damaging the shaft as you already know, right tool for the right job.

There are inexpensive pullers that are not the brightest shiniest tool out there but work. A small invest could save you big $$$$ in new replacements.

screw type pullers. maybe even a used one in the Mitchell stable might do the trick. If not look up GW

  • Like 1

Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

If pulling from iron heads, I'd definitely agree with buying or building a puller, or just pay a local shop to do the job.

If trying to pull a Driver/FW adapter, I've had pretty good success with this method:

  1.   Securely clamp shaft horizontally.
  2.   Remove club head from adapter, and then replace the screw from bottom of club head back into adapter, but not fully tightened.
  3.   Attach a small vise-grip to the screw.
  4.   Use a micro-torch to QUICKLY get the adapter heated to the point where the epoxy bond breaks.
  5.   Pull adapter off using the vise-grips in as straight of a motion, in the same line as the shaft, with as little twisting as possible.  

Two things that are important to this method having any chance of consistent success - 1. By not tightening the adapter screw all the way, and attaching your vise-grips/pliers to it, you can get away with some "MINOR" twisting as the screw will take the brunt of the twisting, not the adapter/shaft.  Still very important to go in straight line with shaft to avoid bending.  2. I use a torch only, never a heat gun for graphite.  You want to concentrate the heat only where needed and get the epoxy to break down as fast as possible so the heat doesn't dissipate into the shaft causing the resins to soften/break down.

I'm not recommending this on a super expensive shaft, but has always worked for me in a pinch on a shaft I just want to move from one adapter to another in a hurry and not too concerned about damage.  Use at your own risk! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...