Shaft removal

[Arlarson 17]

So I have been building clubs for a while now and sometimes enjoy it more than actually playing the game. (Don't tell my wife that.) But there is one part that is still giving me troubles. Every time I try to pull a graphite shaft out of a club I end up breaking the tip off and have to drill the hosel out. I don't have a shaft puller which I know is the best way to fix the problem but am looking for some other suggestions on how to do this without buying a shaft puller.

I have tried using a heat gun and torch with the same results. Anybody have any advice?

 

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[dbdors 83]

You really have to have a shaft puller with graphite.  You can build your own if budget is tight.  I did this one: https://www.tutelman.com/golf/measure/shaftPuller.php

[Kenny B 25,157]

Shaft puller is a must for graphite; it has to come straight off, no twisting.

[MattF 10,490]

What they said, if you don't use one you'll forever be breaking shafts.

[McGolf 289]

not being a smart a$$ - don't. if you don't have a puller you risk damaging the shaft as you already know, right tool for the right job.

There are inexpensive pullers that are not the brightest shiniest tool out there but work. A small invest could save you big $$$$ in new replacements.

screw type pullers. maybe even a used one in the Mitchell stable might do the trick. If not look up GW

[halliedog 33]

If pulling from iron heads, I'd definitely agree with buying or building a puller, or just pay a local shop to do the job.

If trying to pull a Driver/FW adapter, I've had pretty good success with this method:

1.   Securely clamp shaft horizontally.
2.   Remove club head from adapter, and then replace the screw from bottom of club head back into adapter, but not fully tightened.
3.   Attach a small vise-grip to the screw.
4.   Use a micro-torch to QUICKLY get the adapter heated to the point where the epoxy bond breaks.
5.   Pull adapter off using the vise-grips in as straight of a motion, in the same line as the shaft, with as little twisting as possible.  

Two things that are important to this method having any chance of consistent success - 1. By not tightening the adapter screw all the way, and attaching your vise-grips/pliers to it, you can get away with some "MINOR" twisting as the screw will take the brunt of the twisting, not the adapter/shaft.  Still very important to go in straight line with shaft to avoid bending.  2. I use a torch only, never a heat gun for graphite.  You want to concentrate the heat only where needed and get the epoxy to break down as fast as possible so the heat doesn't dissipate into the shaft causing the resins to soften/break down.

I'm not recommending this on a super expensive shaft, but has always worked for me in a pinch on a shaft I just want to move from one adapter to another in a hurry and not too concerned about damage.  Use at your own risk!