Explain this to me...

[StogiesnotBogeys]

For the longest time, I went through just about every type of cast wedge on the market. I mean, my irons are Rogues, driver is G 400… So naturally I love forgiveness.

 

I came across a sweet deal on some Callaway V forged wedges so I pulled the trigger. $75 for all three in great shape. And now, almost without fail, I am putting enormous amounts of spin on the ball and I'm even checking them and rolling them backwards when I need to. Why do forged wedges works so much better for me than everything else which always seemed to roll out too much?

 

I mean I work on my swing as much as anyone, but these feel and play completely different.

 

 

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[revkev]

Are you using the same ball?

 

 

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[StogiesnotBogeys]

Are you using the same ball?

 

 

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Yeah, it's crazy. Srixon Z-Star

 

 

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[EthanSterlingPrice]

Without issuing a questionnaire, in-depth swing analysis and possibly some probing my conclusion would be you've found the illusive model that matches you, I've been there and it's a great place to be. I don't know that there's much to explain in the forged vs. cast bit other than what most people probably already know but forged is my preference over cast wherever possible. Glad you found a good match

 

 

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[texasgolfdude]

What wedges were you playing before?

[russtopherb]

How old were your last wedges? What were their grooves live?

[null]

Maybe shaft weight or swing weight is influencing your technique a bit and you are getting more spin.

Cast vs forged has nothing to do with spin.  Heck, probably over 80% of wedges played on tour are cast (Vokey, Cleveland RTX, TaylorMade MG, standard Callaway MDs, Ping Glide 2.0, etc)

[revkev]

Maybe shaft weight or swing weight is influencing your technique a bit and you are getting more spin.

Cast vs forged has nothing to do with spin. Heck, probably over 80% of wedges played on tour are cast (Vokey, Cleveland RTX, TaylorMade MG, standard Callaway MDs, Ping Glide 2.0, etc)[/quote

 

Heck I've found that even worn grooves or not don't seem to matter for me. Seriously - I have a forged wedge that has been hit a lot, has a nice wear spot in the face and I spin it just fine for my purposes.

 

I'm thinking are colleague Ethan has nailed it - you've struck gold, be thankful and work on putting that spin to good effect!

 

 

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[BIG STU]

IMHO it is a combo of what Ethan and Jlukes said. You also did not mention the difference if any on the shafts. But I would not over think it any because from what I read you have found wedges that work for you. Rev also nailed it cast versus forged does not have anything at all to do with the grooves or stopping a ball. For me it makes a difference in feel but I admit I have an uncanny sense of feel. Rev also nailed it on the grooves I absolutely have no problem stopping my 20 year old 588s and those have never regrooved. You can ask MGSer John Smalls on that he has played golf with me. On the modern Conforming wedges I can't stop my Mizuno T-10 Quad cut any better or worse than my 588. I also have a Hopkins 58 which is a cast wedge again no stopping issues but I can feel the difference in it being cast but that is me and I have always had a uncanny sense of feel whether it is golf ,mechanicing or driving race cars

[NiftyNiblick]

I confess that I could never "feel" the difference between cast stainless vs. forged carbon steel,  but enough people say that the difference exists that I have to believe it.  My hands had been a bit abused anyway, so feel is minimal.

 

Actually, stainless often felt softer to me, but only because the stinging from poor contact was defused more by the style of clubhead cast in stainless. The metal had nothing to do with it.

 

In blade wedges, there would be no difference.

 

I find it hard to believe, though, that Stu doesn't have a tool to gouge out those old wedge grooves!

[BIG STU]

Oh I have the tools to do it with just have never messed with those wedges with the natural rust etc they stop just fine. Those 2 588s have a little pedigree as in they were hand made and seem a little harder than an average one

[chemclub]

On the subject of grooves... I thought this post was interesting.

 

https://www.andrewricegolf.com/andrew-rice-golf/2014/5/to-go-milled-or-not-milled

 

I have never noticed a loss of spin with my older wedges. 

[SteddyGolf]

While you might not notice or feel a loss of spin the launch monitor tells a different story. There are several different studies and videos that support this claim.

 

If you look at wedge testing as a whole for new wedges there can be a good deal of difference in spin rates (not always) from one to the other. As others have said you may have simply found the elusive weight, grind, shape, groove, and shaft flex combination that fits your swing perfectly.

 

 

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[StogiesnotBogeys]

What wedges were you playing before?

Vokeys, MD3, Edel, you name it I've tried it.

 

 

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[StogiesnotBogeys]

Thanks for the great conversation, all. Yeah on these I'm just using the stock Callaway wedge shafts.

 

 

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[BIG STU]

On the subject of grooves... I thought this post was interesting.

 

https://www.andrewricegolf.com/andrew-rice-golf/2014/5/to-go-milled-or-not-milled

 

I have never noticed a loss of spin with my older wedges. 

Me either but I can tell you why in my case. My swing and set up is basically a anti hook swing. I actually cut across the ball by design from outside in. I have my left side open and my clubface at impact is about 2* open. That produces a lot of spin. Drivers long irons and fairways if I need a little distance or straighter I close my left side some and shut the club face some. But most of the time I play my baby cut. One of the reasons I went back to my Homna driver from the 915. Those 915s will kill you on sidespin. I do not like the draw too much or closing up because I fear the hook as bad as most fear the shanks.