MWGolf23 Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Just curious to scope the web and see prices on driver shafts. Might want to change my driver shaft up a bit. When I really go after one, I feel like I lose the stability and get poor strikes most often. I'm tired of swinging slower and safer, ready to take the next step and poke some out there like I know I can Any suggestions? Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using MyGolfSpy mobile app M1 2017 10.5° (Project X HZRDUS T1100 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) M2 2017 3W 15° (Project X HZRDUS Black 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) King Tec 21° dialed to 20° (Mitsubishi MMT 80x) Pro 223 PW-6, 225 5-4 (Project X LZ 6.5 125g, Golf Pride CP2) Vokey SM6 52° F-grind, 56° M-grind, 60° L-Grind TP Black Copper Juno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB13 Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Well, I would first figure out what shafts you are targeting. Then you can shop around for price. Like all things, there is no one place with the cheapest prices. Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigtazzGolf Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Golfworks is place I go for shafts. But like GB said. Need to figure out what works first. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Grip n Rip it Chicks dig the LONG ball In my staff bag King F7+ Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro White 60 - Graphite Tour X-Stiff CBX 13.5 3 Wood Atomic Irons 4-AW (reviewing) CG16 Satin 52* 588 RTX 2.0 56* and 60* Sentio Sierra 101-M Putter Proud tester of the Tommy Armour ATOMIC Irons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GolfSpy MPR Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Another useful option, depending what you're looking for, is Diamond Tour. In addition to generic shafts, they tend to carry a lot of overstocks from previous model years that, if you know what you want, can be a real bargain. TS3 9.5°, Tensei Blue CBX T3 15°, Project X HZRDUS Black Epic Super Hybrid 18°, Aerotech Steel Fiber FC HYB S C722 21°, Ventus Blue 8S CBX Iron-Wood 25°, Project X HZRDUS Black 6.0 639 CB, Aldila NV 95 Graphite, 6–PW CBX 48° T22 54° and 60° EAS 4.0, Garsen G-Pro grip TP5x and Tour Response Full WITB with pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWGolf23 Posted September 29, 2018 Author Share Posted September 29, 2018 Thanks guys. Yeah, I don't intend to buy blind. Want to look, educate, and make a decision down the road. I probably research way too much, but I like to be careful and not waste money. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using MyGolfSpy mobile app M1 2017 10.5° (Project X HZRDUS T1100 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) M2 2017 3W 15° (Project X HZRDUS Black 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) King Tec 21° dialed to 20° (Mitsubishi MMT 80x) Pro 223 PW-6, 225 5-4 (Project X LZ 6.5 125g, Golf Pride CP2) Vokey SM6 52° F-grind, 56° M-grind, 60° L-Grind TP Black Copper Juno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBobby_PR Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I prefer the people's clubs. Will is great to deal with Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4 Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120 Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60 Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1 Ball: Titleist Prov1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djahubes Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I'm swapping out my driver shaft now. I like eBay for relatively inexpensive options. Lots of pulled shafts out there. I Have an Aldila 2kxv Green NV 65 X flex sitting in the garage. Like it but it's a bit too tight for the way I'm swinging. Ordered an xcaliber pro stiff to see how it works out. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kor.A.Door Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Golfworks, Diamond Tour Golf, I think Rock bottom golf has shafts, 2nd swing may have as well. Value golf. Sometimes it's cheaper to find a club on eBay that has the shaft in it that you are looking for. Honestly the easiest way is to just search for the shaft you want and see who may have it. Lefties are always in their Right Mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iopfer Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I have bought a few online and Dallas Golf is my go to. Sent from my Pixel using MyGolfSpy mobile app Driver: F9, Project X Evenflow White T1100, 6.0 3 wood: F9, Fujikura Atmos blue, 3 hybrid: F7 19.5 degree stiff flex Irons: 4-pw JPX 919 KBS C-Taper Lite shafts Wedges: King Black 50, 54, 60 degree KBS Hi-Rev 2.0 Putters: Odyssey O-Works 1w 34" w/ Superstroke counterbalanced Pistol GT 2.0 grip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteddyGolf Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I agree with iopfer. I contacted Dallas Golf because they have over 300,000 transactions on EBay. I told them what I was looking for and they returned with four options at different price points. I then researched their recommendations. Low and behold they were spot on. Super fast shipping. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Miura MB 502 Irons ping G400 Driver Cobra F7 3 wood Mizuno putter Mizuno Wedges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forefiji Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Always best to get fitted but the DFSI fitting data from Hirekogolf (formerly Dynacraft) will help. https://www.hirekogolf.com/dynamic-shaft-fitting-addendum Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaidJacket Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I don't understand how guys can guess themselves into the "right" shaft. (1st Admission: I've tried it. No success.) I suppose if I had a large selection of shafts at my disposal I might conceivably be able to get out on the course and start hitting (game) balls and swapping shafts and changing head settings until I was able to "dial-in" a shaft and ball flight pattern and distance I'm seeking If I were to want to change the shaft in my driver today to; for example, gain some additional yardage or change my ball-flight in some way what shaft would I look for? What weight would I need? Stiffness*, torque, bend profile, tip characteristics, length, etc. etc. I have no idea. I'd probably be wasting my time and money. But...I suppose it's entirely possible that I might Luck myself into something too. Who knows? But first I'd have to start buying shafts and weeding them out. I'm interested to learn from forum members how to go about selecting the "right" shaft for your game and your desired outcome. In other words... Self Fitting. To use MWGolf23's example: he wants a new shaft so he can start "going after one" stop swinging slower and "poke" one" out there. So in other words he wants to start ripping it. Sounds good to me. But what shaft is designed for his swing, his particular head club, and... is made for Ripping it? *(2nd Admission: I've said many times in the forum that shafts bore me technically speaking. I don't study shaft technology nor do I care too and have no means at home to evaluate my swing characteristics or shaft profiles/characteristics. It's all guess work IMO without at least some basic LM data to give me a baseline to narrow the field a bit. And, even then I think I might have to go through a number of shafts - outdoors with a game ball to see with my eyes what's working or not.) My Sun Mountain bag currently includes: 771CSI 5i - PW and PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges EXS 10.5*, 929-HS FW4 16.5* Willimette w/GolfPride Contour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickyBobby_PR Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 I don't understand how guys can guess themselves into the "right" shaft. (1st Admission: I've tried it. No success.) I suppose if I had a large selection of shafts at my disposal I might conceivably be able to get out on the course and start hitting (game) balls and swapping shafts and changing head settings until I was able to "dial-in" a shaft and ball flight pattern and distance I'm seeking If I were to want to change the shaft in my driver today to; for example, gain some additional yardage or change my ball-flight in some way what shaft would I look for? What weight would I need? Stiffness*, torque, bend profile, tip characteristics, length, etc. etc. I have no idea. I'd probably be wasting my time and money. But...I suppose it's entirely possible that I might Luck myself into something too. Who knows? But first I'd have to start buying shafts and weeding them out. I'm interested to learn from forum members how to go about selecting the "right" shaft for your game and your desired outcome. In other words... Self Fitting. To use MWGolf23's example: he wants a new shaft so he can start "going after one" stop swinging slower and "poke" one" out there. So in other words he wants to start ripping it. Sounds good to me. But what shaft is designed for his swing, his particular head club, and... is made for Ripping it? *(2nd Admission: I've said many times in the forum that shafts bore me technically speaking. I don't study shaft technology nor do I care too and have no means at home to evaluate my swing characteristics or shaft profiles/characteristics. It's all guess work IMO without at least some basic LM data to give me a baseline to narrow the field a bit. And, even then I think I might have to go through a number of shafts - outdoors with a game ball to see with my eyes what's working or not.) Some like to tinker either with trying the newest on the market regardless of design or if it will work for them based on the holy grail of low spin and high launch or others feeedback even if that person has a totally different swing than theirs. Others tinker because it's fun and testing/trying new stuff makes golf exciting, others tinker because they like a certain head and are trying to optimize their flight and since most fitting carts don't have aftermarket shafts they need to research and buy looking fit the best option. Lastly many have been through fittings and know what they like and/or works for their swing so when a new shaft comes out that matches that profile they tinker with it. Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4 Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120 Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60 Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1 Ball: Titleist Prov1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hckymeyer Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 If you've been fit a bunch of times in the past you start to get a pretty good idea on the profile, weight, flex etc that works with your swing. Without getting fit you might have a decent idea if a certain type of shaft will be in the ball park or not. As for best place to buy that's kind of a hard question. There might be the best place to buy that gets you exactly what you want, brand new with zero chance of a counterfeit shaft, but it's gonna be more expensive. (i.e. purchasing from your fitter, golfworks.com, dallas golf, diamond tour etc) Then there's the best place to buy to spend the least amount of money, but you may run in to counterfeit's, unknown tipping, questionable pulling technique's etc (i.e. ebay) The sweet spot between those two for me is buying from the classified section on here or golfwrx. You can still run in to issues but in general the communities are self policing and don't tolerate shady sellers. After you get fit and narrow down what shaft you want it may be easier to recommend a specific place to get the best deal. Driver: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black 3w: '16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82 5w: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow Hybrid: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black Irons: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Wedges: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Putter: Red 7s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMookie Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Dallas Golf has great prices, and are reputable. I went by their store the other day when I was in Dallas. Good folks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Driver: Ping G430 Max 9*, Ping Tour 70X Fairway: Ping G425 15*, Ping Tour 70X Hybrid: Ping G425 22*, Ping Tour 80X Irons: Ping i230 4-GW, TT DG X100 Wedges: SMS 50D/54V/58DModus 130 stiff, +1” Putter: EAS 1.0 Ball: Titleist 2023 AVX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chisag Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 If you've been fit a bunch of times in the past you start to get a pretty good idea on the profile, weight, flex etc that works with your swing. Without getting fit you might have a decent idea if a certain type of shaft will be in the ball park or not. Then there's the best place to buy to spend the least amount of money, but you may run in to counterfeit's, unknown tipping, questionable pulling technique's etc (i.e. ebay) After you get fit and narrow down what shaft you want it may be easier to recommend a specific place to get the best deal. ... Good stuff GS Meyer. I have had a love affair with shafts for a long time now. I just find them fascinating both in performance and structure. Even without being fit, which I have several times, it is pretty easy to find the "the profile, weight, flex etc that works with your swing." Then you have a baseline for what works best for your swing. For instance as boring as it sounds, I do best with a mid weight, mid flex, mid trajectory shaft. A little softer profile and I spin the ball too much as well as hit it too high. A little stiffer in overall profile and I don't feel like I load and unload the shaft which makes me swing too hard to get my desired feel and results. ... But being a hopeless shaft romantic, I still try new ones all the time. My favorite shaft is my Rogue Black 110 Tour shaft. Mid everything but I wanted to see how a little stiffer tip might work with increasing the loft on my F8 and I picked up a Rogue Silver Tour 125. Sure enough it was just too stout for me and I sold it for what I paid. I have been hitting the Even Flow Blue very well and have it in my F8+ and F8 fairways woods. I know the Even Flow Black is smoother feeling than the Rogue Silver so I just picked one up off Ebay for $99, which is where I buy most of my shafts. I buy them new, not used and am always looking for a bargain and usually find one. Occasionally I find a new driver/fw wood with a shaft I really want to try at a bargain and buy that, then pull the shaft and replace it with another I own and re-sell the new driver. By and large I come out a little behind monetarily but get to try everything I want for not too much $. Win win in my book. Driver: Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R Fairway: Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R Hybrids: 430 Hybrid 22*... Diamana LTD 65r DHy #4 ... Steelfiber 780Hy Irons: '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r Wedges: Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r Putter: Sport-60 33" Ball: Maxfli/ Maxfli Tour/TP5x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyNiblick Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 At the very peak of my physical abilities and my golf game, and I was reasonably strong, I still refused to play with stiff shafts. For one thing, I couldn't feel the clubhead during the arc of my swing with stiff shafts. For another, I was fully devoted to flat trajectory Top Flites because I could club myself with them better than with any other ball. For my swing, their distance consistency was remarkable. Original Top Flites liked kickier, high launching shafts or every shot might look like a 1-iron shot. Now it's so much more complicated! But it started getting more complicated when my game was going downhill, so I didn't worry about it. Aldila NV Pro 105s, R flex, worked from driving iron to lob wedge with any irons. The green was soothing to my eyes and they didn't sting. With "woods," the stock shaft, as long as it was an R or soft R, would be good enough for me. I was starting to suck as i decomposed, and the original Top Flite was long gone anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chisag Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 ... Not so easy even back then NN. When wood graphite shafts came out in drivers I could not hit the HM-40 or ProLite 35 any higher than a goose riding the current of a cool fall lake. And I felt like Wylie Coyote holding a sledgehammer just after swinging at the Roadrunner but hitting a Mack truck instead. So even back in the old days an R was not an R. The release of the EI-70 was a godsend and when Graphite Design starts offering aftermarket shafts like the YS6 and YS7's many players found shafts that complimented their swing. I still fondly remember the Hot Tour set up of going up a flex from an S to an X with the 905R and only inserting it 1.5", not full bore and that created a more active tip which was perfect for my Freddie Couples like swing, or at least what I pictured in my head was a FC like swing. ... But you are right, shafts have come a looooooong way since then. I played golf with John Oldenburg of Aldila at that time and he designed the original NV. I picked his brain for 4+ hours of golf and the clubhouse after the round. Really a great guy and he will forget more about shafts than I will ever learn. But he knew golfers needed a stiffer tip without the harsh rebar like feel as driver heads got larger producing high ball flight and more spin and came up with the Micro Laminate Technology design. As you know, the NV is still a viable option in todays heads. But today you can do just about anything with shaft like the HZRDUS line up using the same materials and moving the flex point and stiffness around in the same shaft creating completely different profiles in the Black, Yellow and Red. It takes at least something more than a GED equivalent to understand todays shafts. Driver: Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R Fairway: Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R Hybrids: 430 Hybrid 22*... Diamana LTD 65r DHy #4 ... Steelfiber 780Hy Irons: '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r Wedges: Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r Putter: Sport-60 33" Ball: Maxfli/ Maxfli Tour/TP5x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyNiblick Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 You know what wood shafts seemed to work for me back in the day, chisag? Remember those old, plain black Penley shafts with the yellow circles? I had one taken out of a brand new 16º Adams Tight Lies that was too upright for me and had it put into one of my PTs. I think that it replaced a lower end stock Fujikura but it was a while ago. I ended up putting them in all of my PTs----13, 17, 20, and 23º. Technically, I think that they may have actually been a downgrade, but they worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chisag Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 ... Penley made some excellent shafts! My favorite shaft from back in the day was the Innovative Technology UFO 2.2. Another favorite was the UST Inertial Transfer shaft called the I.T. and Couples played it for quite a few years and Mark Brooks won on tour using one. Ahead if it's time it was designed to be played at a D0 swing weight and was heavily counter balanced with a titanium weave in the butt end and at 99gms did not feel anywhere near that weight. Too strong for me now but I still have a new one in the basement along with several others that were never released or offered in a limited run. As I said I am a hopeless shaft romantic and just can't let them go quite yet. Driver: Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R Fairway: Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R Hybrids: 430 Hybrid 22*... Diamana LTD 65r DHy #4 ... Steelfiber 780Hy Irons: '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r Wedges: Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r Putter: Sport-60 33" Ball: Maxfli/ Maxfli Tour/TP5x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golfspy_CG2 Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 I have bought a few online and Dallas Golf is my go to. Sent from my Pixel using MyGolfSpy mobile app Another big endorsement for Peoples for me. Will I'd a stand up guy who just happens to do great work. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy G430 Max 10K TSiR1 15.0 Aldlia Ascent 60g TSR2 18.0 PX Aldila Ascent 6og TSi1 20 Aldila Ascent Shafts R T350 5-GW SteelFiber I80 SM10 48F/54M and58K S159 48S/52S/56W/60B Select 5.5 Flowback 35" ProV1 Play number 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWGolf23 Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 Awesome, thank you, everybody. I've been digging and doing my research, and analyzing my own swing. I read a lot of information and experiences from many sources and have learned that I am struggling with my driver shaft with consistency (trying to find the right tempo and clubhead speed optimal to my current driver shaft, which is harder than getting a shaft to match your natural swing) because my natural tendency is to have an aggressive tempo and that also cranks up the speed. So the three main factors I think that I need to experiment with is a stiffer shaft to an x, and/or bump my weight up to 70g, and/or stiffer tip section and I think that would get me closer to where I need without access to GCQuad and also understand my ball striking on the face and further optimizing from there. Can certainly use some foot spray to see a strike to help a little bit. I definitely will buy a shaft to start the tinkering process. Fascinated by these intricacies! M1 2017 10.5° (Project X HZRDUS T1100 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) M2 2017 3W 15° (Project X HZRDUS Black 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) King Tec 21° dialed to 20° (Mitsubishi MMT 80x) Pro 223 PW-6, 225 5-4 (Project X LZ 6.5 125g, Golf Pride CP2) Vokey SM6 52° F-grind, 56° M-grind, 60° L-Grind TP Black Copper Juno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWGolf23 Posted November 25, 2018 Author Share Posted November 25, 2018 I don't understand how guys can guess themselves into the "right" shaft. (1st Admission: I've tried it. No success.) I suppose if I had a large selection of shafts at my disposal I might conceivably be able to get out on the course and start hitting (game) balls and swapping shafts and changing head settings until I was able to "dial-in" a shaft and ball flight pattern and distance I'm seekingIf I were to want to change the shaft in my driver today to; for example, gain some additional yardage or change my ball-flight in some way what shaft would I look for? What weight would I need? Stiffness*, torque, bend profile, tip characteristics, length, etc. etc. I have no idea. I'd probably be wasting my time and money. But...I suppose it's entirely possible that I might Luck myself into something too. Who knows? But first I'd have to start buying shafts and weeding them out. I'm interested to learn from forum members how to go about selecting the "right" shaft for your game and your desired outcome. In other words... Self Fitting. To use MWGolf23's example: he wants a new shaft so he can start "going after one" stop swinging slower and "poke" one" out there. So in other words he wants to start ripping it. Sounds good to me. But what shaft is designed for his swing, his particular head club, and... is made for Ripping it? *(2nd Admission: I've said many times in the forum that shafts bore me technically speaking. I don't study shaft technology nor do I care too and have no means at home to evaluate my swing characteristics or shaft profiles/characteristics. It's all guess work IMO without at least some basic LM data to give me a baseline to narrow the field a bit. And, even then I think I might have to go through a number of shafts - outdoors with a game ball to see with my eyes what's working or not.)I've been fit a few times and know the characteristics of what worked best for me. I went to the Wilson Cortex driver demo and was best fit in the Project X HZRDUS Black 75 6.5 X-Stiff. Everything the fitter said and everything I knew about the shaft characteristics made sense to me. It was a validation for me as I've always had better consistency with a heavier shaft and when I go after it (my natural faster tempo and about 110-113 SS), I have an aggressive tempo. My previous shaft, Aldila NV 65 Stiff was too whippy for my tempo so I struggled finding the right speed and tempo best for the shaft as opposed to the best shaft for my swing. This shaft is now very stiff throughout and I have much better control of the club face. Free demo/mini shaft fit. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using MyGolfSpy mobile app M1 2017 10.5° (Project X HZRDUS T1100 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) M2 2017 3W 15° (Project X HZRDUS Black 6.5 75g, Golf Pride CP2) King Tec 21° dialed to 20° (Mitsubishi MMT 80x) Pro 223 PW-6, 225 5-4 (Project X LZ 6.5 125g, Golf Pride CP2) Vokey SM6 52° F-grind, 56° M-grind, 60° L-Grind TP Black Copper Juno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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