revkev Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I enjoyed this blog entry and learned a valuable lesson from it. Four years ago I was involved in a MGS SCOR wedge test. It was about dispersion so I had to measure all of my approaches inside of 120 yards (my yardage with the PW replacement) My proximity to the pin was much closer to touring pro than the 0-5 distances in the ACROS database. 19.7 in the 60-80 range and 30.3 in the 100-120. Actually this makes sense - I was a 0-5 handicap who averaged 230 with driver. That’s 15-20 yards below average for that handicap bracket so I needed to make it up somehow. My problem was that I didn’t hit the ball long enough to leave a lot of shots in the 60-80 yard range. :) Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60 Aldila R flex - 42.25 inches SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft Ping G410 7, 9 wood Alta 65 R flex Srixon ZX5 MK II 5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex India 52,56 (60 pending) UST recoil 75's R flex Evon roll ER 5 32 inches It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnosil Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 It was an interesting read and I am sure some people will disagree with the information in the blog post; just look at the blog comments. It comes down to practice and if you don’t practice the partial wedge game laying up to a farther distance may be better. A player needs to understand the strategy to the game in order to make informed decisions on what to do. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: TS3 15* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe Backup Putters: Milled Collection RSX 2, mFGP2, Futura 5W, TM-180 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveP043 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Conventional wisdom dies slowly, and this is an example. Without actively working on partial wedges, I've still chosen to get as close as reasonably possible to the green, for the last year or two. I do believe I'm averaging closer to the pin, although I don't keep the statistics. Obviously there are caveats to the general guidelines. Don't take on significant additional risk in trying to get 30 yards closer, don't try to squeeze that shot into a skinny part of the fairway when its much wider a few yards further from the green. If the green and pin position absolutely require you to hit a shot with a lot of spin, lay back to full swing distance. I think what many people forget are the number of times they hit that full wedge fat, or thin, or wide of the flag. Because they feel "comfortable" with the full swing yardage, they remember the good shots. Because they feel "uncomfortable" with the partial shots, they remember the bad ones. Most of us don't want to be proven wrong, so there's a natural tendency to remember only the shots that conform to our current opinion. I think that the flagstick question is another where we'll eventually learn that leaving it in is the best play, in general, but many people will refuse to even consider the data. Irons Titleist T200, AMT Red stiff Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X T22 54 and 58 wedges 7-wood 5-wood B60 G5i putter Right handed Reston, Virginia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony@CIC Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I found the blog interesting and confirming at least what is representative of my game. Comparing my fairway to Chipping - I'm far better at the latter. Now I just need remember that when I'm going for the green. Left Hand orientation SIM 2 D Max with Fujikura Air Speeder Shaft Cobra Radspeed 3W/RIptide Shaft 410 Hybrids 22*, 26* Cobra Speed Zone 6-GP/Recoil ESX 460 F3 Shafts SM7 54* Wedge Glide 3.0 60* Wedge O Works putter V3 NX9-HD - 4 Wheel EZGO TXT 48v cart - too many shoes to list and so many to buy And BAG Boy Golf Balls: Vice Pro Plus 2020 Official Tester Beginning Driver Speed - 78 2019 Official Tester 410 Driver 2018 Official Tester C300 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB13 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I usually try to leave myself an 80 yards shot on layups because that is a full 58°. I'd say my average proximity on 80 yard shots is around 23 feet which is above the average for my bracket, but I lose those shots by hitting so few fairways. My next full swing wedge is a 115 yard shot, and while that may sound like a big gap, it has made me really good at controlling distance on partial swings. I have it down to that my 100 yard shot is a 3/4 GW and I can throttle up or down from there. Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveP043 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 1 hour ago, GB13 said: I usually try to leave myself an 80 yards shot on layups because that is a full 58°. I'd say my average proximity on 80 yard shots is around 23 feet which is above the average for my bracket, but I lose those shots by hitting so few fairways. My next full swing wedge is a 115 yard shot, and while that may sound like a big gap, it has made me really good at controlling distance on partial swings. I have it down to that my 100 yard shot is a 3/4 GW and I can throttle up or down from there. You should try that 3/4 swing with your shortest wedge. You'll do better from 60 than you do from 80 using the same logic as you use with the GW. Then learn a 1/2 swing feel, you'll do better still from 40. Irons Titleist T200, AMT Red stiff Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X T22 54 and 58 wedges 7-wood 5-wood B60 G5i putter Right handed Reston, Virginia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB13 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 3 minutes ago, DaveP043 said: You should try that 3/4 swing with your shortest wedge. You'll do better from 60 than you do from 80 using the same logic as you use with the GW. Then learn a 1/2 swing feel, you'll do better still from 40. That is definitely in the works for the off-season along with straightening the driver up. It could really help my short game if I can get better at the 40-60 yard shots. Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny B Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I read the blog article, and I also thought those distances from the pin were further than I achieve on average. There aren't many holes where there are hazards in the 60-80 yard range, so on long holes I try to get as close as possible. Several par 4's are just not reachable in 2 shots mostly depending on the wind. So, I get a lot of practice on partial shots. I do it all on feel; I don't even need the yardage at my home course. I've tried practicing with numbers from the green and the clock swing for partial shots, but I didn't have any better results than the feel shots with my 58º SCOR... my goto wedge for anything inside 80 yards. “We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GB13 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I am wondering, does the advantage gained by being closer to the pin, make up for the extra risk of getting it closer? Let's say I am on a Par 5 that is 500 yards, and I hit a not so great drive and am 300 yards out, my options are, take a 4 iron, and have 110 yards, or take a 3W and have 70 yards. We know that IF I hit both shots perfectly, I should be able to get 7 feet closer with the 3W. However, the chances of me doing something idiotic with a 3W are much higher than with a 4 iron. With a 3W, there is a distinct possibility that I have 110 yards out of the rough from behind a tree. If we factor in those type of shots, is the difference in layup distance 7 feet from the pin? Or can it be advantageous to lay up farther back? Wilson Staff C300 9.0* Fujikura Pro 58 stiff Callaway Rogue 3W Mitsubishi Diamana D+ LTD 80 stiff Mizuno MP-18 MMC FLI-HI 2 iron UST Mamiya Recoil 95 stiff Ping I200's 4-W Aerotech Steelfiber I110 CW stiff Ping Glide 52* and 58* stiff Bettinardi Studio Stock #38 Armlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnosil Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I am wondering, does the advantage gained by being closer to the pin, make up for the extra risk of getting it closer? Let's say I am on a Par 5 that is 500 yards, and I hit a not so great drive and am 300 yards out, my options are, take a 4 iron, and have 110 yards, or take a 3W and have 70 yards. We know that IF I hit both shots perfectly, I should be able to get 7 feet closer with the 3W. However, the chances of me doing something idiotic with a 3W are much higher than with a 4 iron. With a 3W, there is a distinct possibility that I have 110 yards out of the rough from behind a tree. If we factor in those type of shots, is the difference in layup distance 7 feet from the pin? Or can it be advantageous to lay up farther back? I think you should always assess the chance you can execute the necessary shot. If you can only pull off that 3 wood shot 20% of the time you may not want to try. If the landing area is open and matches up with your typical shot area take more club. I don’t think the article is saying to always hit it as far as possible, you still have to manage turn way around the course. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: TS3 15* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe Backup Putters: Milled Collection RSX 2, mFGP2, Futura 5W, TM-180 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveP043 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 18 minutes ago, cnosil said: I think you should always assess the chance you can execute the necessary shot. If you can only pull off that 3 wood shot 20% of the time you may not want to try. If the landing area is open and matches up with your typical shot area take more club. I don’t think the article is saying to always hit it as far as possible, you still have to manage turn way around the course. I agree completely, you want to get as close as possible without taking on significant additional risk. This is where it really helps to have data on your personal pattern with each club. Just remember its not an either/or proposition. You won't always hit your 4-iron solid and straight, you won't always hit your 3-wood crooked. And when you DO hit a bad shot with your 4-iron, you might be 140 yards out and behind a tree, instead of 110 out with your mishit 3-wood. So the question becomes, does the advantage of being 30 yards closer most of the time override the risk of being behind a tree an additional 10% of the time. If that's the right number, I'd say the risk is worth it, hit 3-wood. Or maybe that risk of being in trouble is 40% higher, depending on the player, so the additional risk isn't justified. There's a good book available that discusses this issue in detail, called Lowest Score Wins. Be aware, the book was written by the owner of a different golf website, and I don't advertise other websites when I'm here. Nevertheless, the book can be very valuable in understanding club and shot selection strategies. Irons Titleist T200, AMT Red stiff Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X T22 54 and 58 wedges 7-wood 5-wood B60 G5i putter Right handed Reston, Virginia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cnosil Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I agree completely, you want to get as close as possible without taking on significant additional risk. This is where it really helps to have data on your personal pattern with each club. Just remember its not an either/or proposition. You won't always hit your 4-iron solid and straight, you won't always hit your 3-wood crooked. And when you DO hit a bad shot with your 4-iron, you might be 140 yards out and behind a tree, instead of 110 out with your mishit 3-wood. So the question becomes, does the advantage of being 30 yards closer most of the time override the risk of being behind a tree an additional 10% of the time. If that's the right number, I'd say the risk is worth it, hit 3-wood. Or maybe that risk of being in trouble is 40% higher, depending on the player, so the additional risk isn't justified. There's a good book available that discusses this issue in detail, called Lowest Score Wins. Be aware, the book was written by the owner of a different golf website, and I don't advertise other websites when I'm here. Nevertheless, the book can be very valuable in understanding club and shot selection strategies.While I haven’t read that book I have read about it and it does reinforce the principle. Mark Brodie’s book and Scott Fawcett’s DECADE program are also good references for how to decide when to be aggressive. There are a couple of videos on Scott’s YouTube site that illustrate how to make decisions based on your typical dispersion and miss. Both LSW and DECADE talk about where to aim based on your shot patterns. Driver: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven Fairway: TS3 15* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke Hybrids: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype 915H 24* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype Irons: TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite Wedge: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite Putter: Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe Backup Putters: Milled Collection RSX 2, mFGP2, Futura 5W, TM-180 Member: MGS Hitsquad since 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoverRick Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I have always been partial to partial shots. (Hehe) I practice the 1/4-1/2-3/4 wedge regularly. This year because it injury, until last week, 3/4 was my full pain-free swing. This has benefited my game because instead of hitting a 7 iron into a green, I make a 3/4 5 Iron swing. My GIR’s are way up as is my proximity to the hole especially on the par 5’s and 3’s. I have expanded that practice even to my long irons, and I attribute my decent play with fellow MGSpy’s in Houston last month to this. Unfortunately, I have been making 3/4 swings with the driver also and the par 4’s have kicked my butt. So the key thing I have proven to myself is that all the irons are not about distance but distance control and direction. Just because you are “8 Iron” distance doesn’t mean you have to hit an 8 Iron. Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy G430LST 10.5° on T P T POWER 18 Hi Driver G430MAX 3w on T P T POWER 18 Hi Fairway G425 3H on T P T POWER 18 Hi Hybrid G425 4H on TGH 80S i525 5-U on TGI 90S SM8 54 & 60 on Wedge DF2.1 on White ProV1 Precision Pro NX7 Pro All Iron grips are BestGrips Micro-Perforated Mid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixyurdivot Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I don't play to a preferred layup distance. If there is a hazard or I'm out a distance that's sporty to make the green, I just get as close as possible. There are a couple of holes at a course we play in Yuma that, depending on how well the drive is hit, leaves me in this predicament. To be honest, I feel just as confident pin hunting with my 7i as I do with my PW. My distance control is pretty good and my iron shots tend to drop like sacks of sand and hold close to impact. In addition to bunker shots, trying the "throttled" swing on my wedge, as a number of you have suggested in this and other threads, is on my winter game improvement list. G410 Plus, 9 Degree Driver G400 SFT, 16 Degree 3w G400 SFT, 19 Degree 5w ZX5 Irons 4-AW Glide 2.0 56 Degree SW (removed from double secret probation ) ER5v Putter (Evnroll ER5v Official Review) AI-One Milled Seven T CH (Currently Under Product Test) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMookie Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I’ve been doing a lot better when I use my 58* from 80 and inside. I’ve really gotten used to the yardage/swing, and it’s my “go-to” club. I can see how this data would be accurate!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Driver: Ping G430 Max 9*, Ping Tour 70X Fairway: Ping G425 15*, Ping Tour 70X Hybrid: Ping G425 22*, Ping Tour 80X Irons: Ping i230 4-GW, TT DG X100 Wedges: SMS 50D/54V/58DModus 130 stiff, +1” Putter: EAS 1.0 Ball: Titleist 2023 AVX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knightsofnii Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Morgan Hoffmann did a demo at one of my local courses. When discussing his short game strategy, he showed us how he knows exact yardages and how he can take 5yds off by choking down 1", or 10 by 2". Anyway, with that in mind, I discovered that a swing from 9oclock with my 50degree, choked half way down the grip, flew 70-72 yards every time, with enough height to stop at 75. So, 75 became my magic number. 50yds: same swing choked so my bottom hand is at the bottom of the grip. I play everything inside 100 with that 50deg, except for bunkers, short sided chips, flops, specialty shots. Call me old skool but it's what I'm comfortable doing. If I'm at 100 and not feeling good with fuller shots I'll choke down and take a little off the PW. Outside of that, it looks like I should look into Arccos and maybe figure out how to work the other wedges into my game. RADspeed 10.5, Evenflow Riptide CB 6.0s Bio Cell 3/4w, PXV 6.0s; AMP 3h 19deg Aldila RIP R. Bio Cell 4h 22.5deg PXV R. 2021/22 T200 5-7, T100 8-P (bent 1deg strong), LZ 5.5 CBX-2 50/11 ATV 56/16deg Impact No.3 Align putter Caddie for tracking. Pro V1X balls Previous forum tests: 2019: Golf Pride Tour Velvet Plus 4 grips, Lynx Black Cat 5-PW. 2020: LX5 Watch. 2021: Impact #3 Align putter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny B Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 I am not that good of a ball striker to vary shot distance by choking down on a club. I have a hard enough time making good contact with my hands in the same position all the time. When I choke down, I will most likely hit the ball thin. I'm much better at changing the amount of backswing. “We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toehold57 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Let's say I am on a Par 5 that is 500 yards, and I hit a not so great drive and am 300 yards out, my options are, take a 4 iron, and have 110 yards, or take a 3W and have 70 yards. Or hit a pair of 7 irons? Let’s face it, I duffed my drive and now have a tendency to want to muscle my second shot in order to make up that lost yardage. For me(!) that doesn’t work out so well. Duffed shot number 2 coming up.Hitting a pair of 7’s takes that pressure off. Hitting a 7 is easy, hitting it twice in a row is even easier. I’m mentally prepared for that third shot.Now if I could just convince myself to follow this advice instead of trying a hero shot Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knightsofnii Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I am often splitting up my shots. But for me, I've made a rule to do so when yardage is over 175, which would be hybrid or wood zone. So, PW then GW, or a long iron then likely some touchy pitch/chip/bunker shot. Sometimes I'll hit the 5i or hyb if there is less trouble and wider fairway, knowing that if I hit it really bad it will end up somewhere in the layup zone anyway. RADspeed 10.5, Evenflow Riptide CB 6.0s Bio Cell 3/4w, PXV 6.0s; AMP 3h 19deg Aldila RIP R. Bio Cell 4h 22.5deg PXV R. 2021/22 T200 5-7, T100 8-P (bent 1deg strong), LZ 5.5 CBX-2 50/11 ATV 56/16deg Impact No.3 Align putter Caddie for tracking. Pro V1X balls Previous forum tests: 2019: Golf Pride Tour Velvet Plus 4 grips, Lynx Black Cat 5-PW. 2020: LX5 Watch. 2021: Impact #3 Align putter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveP043 Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 8 hours ago, toehold57 said: Or hit a pair of 7 irons? Let’s face it, I duffed my drive and now have a tendency to want to muscle my second shot in order to make up that lost yardage. For me(!) that doesn’t work out so well. Duffed shot number 2 coming up. Hitting a pair of 7’s takes that pressure off. Hitting a 7 is easy, hitting it twice in a row is even easier. I’m mentally prepared for that third shot. Obviously, wanting to "muscle" a shot is a potential problem, that's one thing to try to work through. But don't you also get the urge to muscle your 7-iron? And if you duff your 7-iron, won't you be further away than if you duff a hybrid or 3-wood? Why not take the longer club, and convince yourself to make a normal good swing. If you hit it bad, you still might have a 7-iron to the green. If you hit it good, you have a wedge, and that's a LOT easier than a 7-iron. Its honestly NOT that easy to hit two solid straight 7-irons in a row, and if you mishit the first one, you'll be looking at long iron or more to get to the green.. Irons Titleist T200, AMT Red stiff Rogue SubZero, GD YS-Six X T22 54 and 58 wedges 7-wood 5-wood B60 G5i putter Right handed Reston, Virginia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxEntropy Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I like my chances much more with a touchy "feel" shot, especially if I can get to within 50 yards, than intentionally leaving a full swing unless there is a hazard that dictates the play. I don't really have a "recipe" for the distance, rather a combination of reduced backswing and choking down on the club - it's all feel for me. Generally it works out OK, but I would love to have the time to go hit a 1000 balls with partial swings to really dial in the distances of a variety of shots. Driver: Epic Speed 9* (set -1) MMT 70X 3W: Tour B JGR Recoil 760ES 3H, 4H: Tour B JGR 19*, 23* Recoil 780ES 4-AW: Tour B JGR HF2 Modus3 Tour 105 SW: RTX Zipcore Black Satin 54* LW: TAIII Black 58* Putter: Scottsdale TR Senita Bag: BigMax Dri Active Lite Ball: TP5x or AVX (yellow) Pushcart: BigMax iQ+ Testing Complete, Final Review Posted: Sub70 TAIII Forged Wedges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revkev Posted November 7, 2018 Author Share Posted November 7, 2018 I want to go back to Dave's comment that conventional wisdom dies slowly. I would add that it never wants to be confused by statistics that contradict it either. Lots of great comments here - just get as close as possible while using common sense and a realistic understanding of your capabilities and you'll be fine. It's sounds simple and it's often very difficult. BTW I managed to get one approach shot from inside of 80 yards yesterday and that was my birdie - hit it to about 8 feet. I made a stupid play from the left rough on the par 5 7th - I thought that I could draw it enough to get it inside of the traps on the right side of the fairway - almost - should have hit more or less club to take the traps out of play (probably less because more could have brought all sorts of other issues in.) I should have shot the first trap and hit 8 iron over the trees that I decided to go around with the 5 hybrid. Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60 Aldila R flex - 42.25 inches SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft Ping G410 7, 9 wood Alta 65 R flex Srixon ZX5 MK II 5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex India 52,56 (60 pending) UST recoil 75's R flex Evon roll ER 5 32 inches It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsacraig Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 I have the Arccos system and as much as we put faith in their information, I have found that the sensors don't register all the time (I know where to place the phone) and I have to manually enter shots after every round. The club that doesn't register frequently is the putter therefore data on proximity would not be accurate. If I'm in the minority then my comments are irrelevant but if there is a significant number of us that experience the same problem then....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kardboard.kid Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 On 11/6/2018 at 5:50 PM, Kenny B said: I am not that good of a ball striker to vary shot distance by choking down on a club. I have a hard enough time making good contact with my hands in the same position all the time. When I choke down, I will most likely hit the ball thin. I'm much better at changing the amount of backswing. I find I choke down when in an uphill lie, or heavy rough. I do like to know averages, as I also know my club averages. great read. F7+ w/Fujikura Pro XLR8 Graphite Shaft 3-I MPF H-Series3B2M graphite Shaft w/Winn Dri-Tac grip mid STi Irons 5-SW KURO KAGE 70IR Flex-R Lamkin Grips King F6 Hybrid Matrix Red Tie HQ4 Graphite Shaft Forged FGT 60* wedge KURO KAGE 70R SS cross Comfort grip O-Putter 1W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EthanSterlingPrice Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 I’m a short game player always have been, but I go for par 5s as long as there isn’t a penalty left of the target. My layup distance can vary based on what the hole gives me though. I’ve laid up to 160 before because that was the only spot available that gave me a full club approach. I propose finding a few different distances you can dial in to keep from getting locked into only one option. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Right Handed 4.5 handicap Driver: Nike Vapor Flex with Mitsubishi Rayon Fubuki ZT60x5ct S-flex shaft and stock grip. 3-Metal: Nike VRS 15 degree with Mitsubishi Rayon tour issue Diamana S73x5ct X-flex shaft and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grip. Irons: Ben Hogan PTx 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46 degrees standard length and lie with KBS Tour-V stiff shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips. Wedges: Ben Hogan TK15 54, 58 degrees with KBS Tour-V X-flex shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips. Putter: Nike Method Converge B1|01 with Superstroke Flatso 2.0 grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommc23 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 I always go for it unless I absolutely can't. When I lay up it will be 140 and in mainly because that puts a wedge or easy 9 in my hand.Sent from my SM-G950U using MyGolfSpy mobile app Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyNiblick Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 This is a super interesting thread to me. Rev is so confident with the accuracy of his driver that he rarely defers to an alternative club on tight driving holes. I hit driver, if I was bagging one, maybe four or five times a round--max. And if a strong-lofted fairway wood was serving as my driver already, I'd still go to driving iron if I didn't see wide open spaces. But as skittish as I was looking at skinny landing areas, that's how bold I was hitting into greens. I went for greens. And two things reinforced that inclination. First was the lob wedge. The lob wedge took the fear out of short siding myself. Forget about full swings from closer in. Less skillful players struggle with that. But for little shots around the greens, the very low bounce, high loft lob wedge was a miracle invention. Second was joining my club. Rev speaks, quite reasonably, about vain players under-clubbing themselves. At my club, in a largely disparate way, long is usually more trouble than short. The architect loved to frame greens with trees and bushes in the background. Being optimistic about your length causes less pain than over-clubbing. Thus, the layup was often accomplished by going for it and falling short. And you have the lob wedge if you do fall short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyNiblick Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 delete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toehold57 Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 >> But don't you also get the urge to muscle your 7-iron?Fair question, and that urge is always there. Who doesn’t want to pull off the hero shot? But if I’m 300 out and I’m smart enough to settle for a pair of sevens, I will tend to realize I can’t get there. All I can do is move the ball forward. >> And if you duff your 7-iron, won't you be further away than if you duff a hybrid or 3-wood? Why not take the longer club, and convince yourself to make a normal good swing. If you hit it bad, you still might have a 7-iron to the green. If you hit it good, you have a wedge, and that's a LOT easier than a 7-iron. Its honestly NOT that easy to hit two solid straight 7-irons in a row, and if you mishit the first one, you'll be looking at long iron or more to get to the green.I guess it depends on the person. For me, I have a tendency to pull hook the longer clubs (hence the ‘muscle’ comment). Hitting a pair of seven irons is a lot easier and a place where I tend to be pretty confident.Play to your strengths!Sent from my iPad using MyGolfSpy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaidJacket Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 I haven't read the blog article. But playing probably 80% of my rounds on my home course I know it like the back of my hand. Which means knowing where my layups should be for a good approach. And most days that's where I am when laying up. I look at laying up in several different ways that don't always mean on a par 5 for example. But I'll start with par 5's which for me always entails a layup shot. Always. My home course is par 70 with only two par 5's. On the longest of the two; my layup results in my having a 7i or 8i approach most of the time. On the other one I layup to about 90-100 yards leaving me with a 52*-56* wedge most days. I also layup so to speak on a couple of par 4's. What that means is not hitting a driver and instead using my 4w for example. But by doing so on certain days and conditions I'll still be hitting my approach with anything from an 8i to PW. Some of my decisions on these par 4's might be due to how I'm hitting the ball that particular day or if I'm trying to play safe and preserve a good round or save a match or something. Ok I did just go and take a quick look at the article. If I had data - measurements of my approach shots and proximity to the pin I'd probably fall right into the Hcp. category for 0-5 players. Although I do think I'm inside that mark by some measure. Why do I think that? Because our greens are very small as compared to more modern course designs where the greens are huge. I also think by playing on small greens it helps tighten my overall dispersion. 41'-49' (13-16 Yards) could put you off the green many times at my course I think. Anywhoo.... that's my 2 cents. My Sun Mountain bag currently includes: 771CSI 5i - PW and PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges EXS 10.5*, 929-HS FW4 16.5* Willimette w/GolfPride Contour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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