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Har in the Hat

Wedges and matching to your iron set

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 I don't know why I didn't make this a priority before but my irons are +3/4" in length and 2 degrees upright with stiff shafts. I'm really shaking my head at why I haven't fitted my wedges. 

The question I want to ask is that I am looking at getting new wedges and would like to know how you guys make them fit into your existing set and flow from the iron's PW . Would you match the shaft length, lie and flex?

Would you need to match the flex as the wedges are played at a slower swing speed or just go with the wedge flex?

as anyone just matched the specs so they match the irons without a fitting and got good results?

The reason I am pondering all this is because of the testing I did with the i500 clubs and because of that testing, it got me thinking more about the clubs themselves instead of solely focusing on the golf itself.

thanks guys

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All of my wedges from Pw-60 are the same length. Just how I’ve played them. Mainly because I like to take full shots with them but I also don’t have to bend over as much on the chips around the greens

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My wedges are also all the same length and same shaft flex as my irons with the exception of my 60 which is still steel shafted and a bit heavier than the others (its the club that I rarely hit full.)

Wedges are hugely important - for me they are more important than irons and behind only driver and putter for scoring - I would argue that this is more than likely the case for the majority of golfers.  You should go to a fitter or do some experimenting to determine what sort of wedge set up works best for you.  Tons of variables that might impact your decision making including the course conditions that you normally play in.  Prior to switching to a V soled wedge which is very versatile, I had alternate wedges that would sub into my set when conditions changed or if I was playing a different course that required different types of shots (Being able to play year round is a blessing but courses are radically different in Florida from summer to winter/early Spring - you can see them transitioning right now - our rough is finally dormant and once cut won't be the issue it is in the summer months, the fairways are speeding up so that there is some roll but greens are getting firmer by the week - different shots are requires when greens are missed.)

At any rate, good question and good luck. 

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Only changes I make to my wedges is to keep them same lie or 1* flatter than I have my irons. Shaft weight and flex usually match my irons or go a tad heavier. I gap them off my pw usually for my gw and sw. I don’t fully swing a lw do that is either 58 or 60 depending on what I feel like gaming in that spot

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I’ve been giving my wedges a lot of thought lately. I bought my Hogan Ft. Worth irons and matching TK15 wedges and put the same KBS C-Taper Lite shafts in all of them. Because the TK15 wedges are just a continuation of the Ft. Worth irons in head shape, I figured I’d build the wedges as similar as the irons.

I play my wedges in .25” increments and distances on full swings are 47*- 125yds, 51*- 110yds, 55*- 95yds, 59*- 80yds, and 63*- 65yds. Now with a head design that was very similar to the irons and the same shafts, full swings were easy with these wedges. Where things started to fall apart were around the green. The C-Taper Lites play stiffer than I like for around the greens.

I also don’t like having so many options. I like the 4* gaps in the irons, but in the wedges I probably had been happier if I’d gone 47*-53*-59*.


I’m building another set of irons, this time with regular flex shafts with a more active tip section, and plan on going with just two wedges after the PW with that set. Just want to simplify a bit, and I’ve been having some wrist and elbow pain increasing lately, so I’m hoping so softer shafts will help remedy that as well.







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I play my wedges with the same shafts and the same flex. I like the consistency across the bag. I do play my wedges 1° flatter than my irons to get a better fit around the greens. With a full swing, you create more shaft deflection which makes the lie angle at impact flatter, so you need to play your irons more upright to adjust for the shaft deflection. Around the green, however, you don't generate the same speeds, so you don't have as much shaft deflection to account for. Therefore, I play my wedges a little flatter. 

Edited by GB13
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In general, wedges should have flatter lies than irons.  You are going to load and unload the shaft with wedges less than you do with irons, so there will be less natural shaft deflection.  

Continuing in the same vein, most guys on tour play half a flex less in their SW and LW because they are using those wedges for partial shots more often than not.

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Aside from my PW which seems to be about 0.25" longer - all my other wedges (52*,56*,60*) are all the same length. I have the same shafts in all my irons Aerotech SF i80. Couldn't tell you about lie angles as I don't know where my spec/build sheet is at this time. But that doesn't matter as when I decide to get new wedges I'll get them from my fitter. He has the specs and knows how to build them.

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22 hours ago, GB13 said:

 

I'm not sure why the sbove won't clear.

But thank you all for answering.

Lots of great feedback

And I'll say it again... To take the time to respond to my query...you guys are the best

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My wedges are a mixed bag and each of the four of them have a different purpose in mind for what I use them for. The 54 and 50 degree are purely for full shots from 100-115 yards respectively so those two are the same type. My PW I use from 125-130, but also for chips around the green. My PW is completely different from all of my other irons as I need one that not only flies good on full shots, but one where I am confident around the greens with it. My 58 is unique in that I use it for a lot of different yardage from about 90 yards and in and from the sand. I swap out my 58 wedge more often than any other club and will get a new one when I lose confidence on those 60 yard half shots that are so crucial to scoring for my game. If I stop having confidence with that 60 yard shot I start looking to replace the 58. It’s a club that is hard for me to keep in my bag for very long. But my current Cleveland RTX mid bounce 58 has been really good to me for almost a year now, so we’ll see how long it lasts.

I’ve honestly never looked at the length in conparison for my wedges. I am thinking of the purpose of each wedge versus whatever length it is. As long as it works for it’s purpose, the length doesn’t matter to me.


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thanks guys for the responses.

I'll definitely look at getting fit and take my pw to get a comparison as I start. 

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My wedges are also all the same length and same shaft flex as my irons with the exception of my 60 which is still steel shafted and a bit heavier than the others (its the club that I rarely hit full.)
Wedges are hugely important - for me they are more important than irons and behind only driver and putter for scoring - I would argue that this is more than likely the case for the majority of golfers.  You should go to a fitter or do some experimenting to determine what sort of wedge set up works best for you.  Tons of variables that might impact your decision making including the course conditions that you normally play in.  Prior to switching to a V soled wedge which is very versatile, I had alternate wedges that would sub into my set when conditions changed or if I was playing a different course that required different types of shots (Being able to play year round is a blessing but courses are radically different in Florida from summer to winter/early Spring - you can see them transitioning right now - our rough is finally dormant and once cut won't be the issue it is in the summer months, the fairways are speeding up so that there is some roll but greens are getting firmer by the week - different shots are requires when greens are missed.)
At any rate, good question and good luck. 

Also different types of grass as well


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On 11/24/2018 at 10:06 AM, deejaid said:

I’ve been giving my wedges a lot of thought lately. I bought my Hogan Ft. Worth irons and matching TK15 wedges and put the same KBS C-Taper Lite shafts in all of them. Because the TK15 wedges are just a continuation of the Ft. Worth irons in head shape, I figured I’d build the wedges as similar as the irons.

I play my wedges in .25” increments
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Deejaid, why the .25" increments?. Is it because that gives you the distances you want or another reason?

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On 11/24/2018 at 10:07 AM, Mr_Theoo said:

I also soft stepped my wedge shafts.

What do you mean by this? And why?

On 11/24/2018 at 10:15 AM, GB13 said:

I play my wedges with the same shafts and the same flex. I like the consistency across the bag. I do play my wedges 1° flatter than my irons to get a better fit around ....

I was going to ask does this not affect the full swing but Jlukes reply I think answers this question

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18 minutes ago, Har in the Hat said:

What do you mean by this? And why?

I was going to ask does this not affect the full swing but Jlukes reply I think answers this question

With wedges, even with full swings, you generate less speed which causes less shaft deflection. Therefore the the lie needs to be flatter anyway so it doesn't affect the full swing much. 

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Deejaid, why the .25" increments?. Is it because that gives you the distances you want or another reason?



I did that just as a continuation of the design philosophy of the TK15 wedges. Terry Koehler advocates the different shape of the TK wedges is to allow for better ball flight on full swings, so, my thinking was that I should keep the 1/2” increments between wedges, just like my irons. With that many wedges though, I realized my 59* and 63* wedges would be getting pretty short if I went with the 1/2” increments so I decided on 1/4” increments.

As I said, in theory, it’s sounds smart to have as many lofts as possible in your wedges, but for me it just felt overwhelming. I had too many choices.

I’ve also tried playing my wedges all the same length before as well, didn’t like that at all.

Now I’m back to having my sand wedge (old Hogan Sand Iron, I believe it’s 57*) as my highest lofted wedge and I’m more confident in making multiple swings with one club, instead of one swing with multiple clubs.


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1 hour ago, Har in the Hat said:

What do you mean by this? And why?

In my wedges I have X flex c-tapers but instead of the wedge shaft I used the 8i shaft. Basically it makes it a spinner shaft. 

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Generally with me no match. Most of the time I only carry 2 wedges. They will vary in flex and sometimes length. I experiment with wedges a lot. If I get one to feel and hit like I want it to then the shaft flex and length is un important to me. I do a lot of wedge tuning. Generally though I play a stiffer but softer tipped shaft in my wedges. Which gives me a good combo. Brands mostly I am fond of 588s and old 252 Vokeys--- Right now I am experimenting with a Callaway PM grind that I reground by hand filing the sole and reweighting. I am not really fond of KBS wedge shafts but in this head it seems to work fine. I did the regrind to mimic the neutral sole grind of a Macgregor wedge I have. Most of my wedges I have the lie at 65*

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8 hours ago, Mr_Theoo said:

In my wedges I have X flex c-tapers but instead of the wedge shaft I used the 8i shaft. Basically it makes it a spinner shaft. 

Yep that is called "Tiger Stepping" Tiger made that famous. That thing will really kick and spin especially with a DG shaft. Basically that is a soft step x 2 or double soft stepping. I have not tried that trick YET with a KBS but you got the experimental train rolling I will try it soon

Edited by BIG STU
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