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DIY Overspeed Training Sticks - Photos and Materials List

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I decided to make my own as I was never going to be able to justify the cost.

I ordered 3 Grafalloy Prolaunch Stiff shafts for under $10, shipping was free as I combined them with another purchase.  I had the grips already after a cheap bulk purchase. 

For the weights I used 304 1 inch stainless rod that my father in law had lying around. He's got about 30 feet of it left, so I might go into business.

The steel was rough cut with a drop saw, then drilled out (8.5mm bit) and machined down to final weight. We chamfered the hole and edges to smooth things up a bit.

IMG_0501.JPG.fa696ee8458356cef97652d9f21839b4.JPG

I purchased a radar locally, which is by far the most expensive part of my setup.

 

Having access to materials and a skilled machinist made this a relatively easy job.

IMG_0549.JPG.767133e9b40eb5b97aeceb88a941cbe0.JPG

IMG_0550.thumb.JPG.b67b0bba38a8109d709f23efb5deeec4.JPG

IMG_0553.JPG.69a248a679b0d30b4c8f407e3b7bb802.JPG

 

 

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Weights were then glued on with maximum strength epoxy.

Total cost, including radar was USD160.

 

Now I need to get swinging.

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So several of you built the speed trainer...What were your results of using? Before/After swing speeds?

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On 7/15/2019 at 9:56 PM, Peaksy68 said:

I decided to make my own as I was never going to be able to justify the cost.

I ordered 3 Grafalloy Prolaunch Stiff shafts for under $10, shipping was free as I combined them with another purchase.  I had the grips already after a cheap bulk purchase. 

For the weights I used 304 1 inch stainless rod that my father in law had lying around. He's got about 30 feet of it left, so I might go into business.

The steel was rough cut with a drop saw, then drilled out (8.5mm bit) and machined down to final weight. We chamfered the hole and edges to smooth things up a bit.

IMG_0501.JPG.fa696ee8458356cef97652d9f21839b4.JPG

I purchased a radar locally, which is by far the most expensive part of my setup.

 

Having access to materials and a skilled machinist made this a relatively easy job.

IMG_0549.JPG.767133e9b40eb5b97aeceb88a941cbe0.JPG

IMG_0550.thumb.JPG.b67b0bba38a8109d709f23efb5deeec4.JPG

IMG_0553.JPG.69a248a679b0d30b4c8f407e3b7bb802.JPG

 

 

IMG_0555.JPG.ad0b257039e35af066a26aeeee166195.JPG

Weights were then glued on with maximum strength epoxy.

Total cost, including radar was USD160.

 

Now I need to get swinging.

Wow that's quite the home project! Wish I had the skills, patience and tools to do that.

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Hi everyone,
With inspiration from several on here, here's my build of two sets of DIY Overspeed training sticks, matched as close to the specs for the SuperSpeed sticks as I could get.
I've included photos of the process and the price/materials list for my build. I ended up building a second set for my brother-in-law as the additional set was really only the additional cost of the shafts.
Diamond Tour Golf

(1) Water-Activated Grip Tape Strips, 13 Pack - $4.99
(1) 24hr 8oz Epoxy Kit - $13.49
(6) DTG Velvet 360 Grip - $1.49/each = $8.94
(6) Adams/Graffalloy SuperShaft - $4.99/each = $29.94
(1) 1/2" Wood Ferrules, 12 Pack - $3.49
Shipping and Handling - $9.99
DTG Total - $70.84

Home Depot

Colored Vinyl Electrical Tape - $4.98
(2) #8-32 2" Pan Head Stainless Steel Machine Screws, 4 Pack - $2.36
(1) #8 Stainless Steel Fender Washers, 8 Pack - $1.18
(1) 5/16" Zinc Fender Washers, 100 Pack - $14.28
(1) J-B Weld 1oz Twin Tube Cold Weld Epoxy - $4.97
(1) 14.5oz Black Plasti Dip - $6.98
6% Michigan Sales Tax - $2.09
Home Depot Total - $36.84
Overall Total for Two Sets - $107.68
1) I started with the grips. I found using dish soap helped immensely with the water activated grip tape.
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2) Instead of using different colored grips (which seemed to have different weights), I wanted to keep it simple with identical grips throughout the set. Instead, I chose to make the different weights with colored electrical tape. This step is purely optional. I used a wrap of blue painter's tape that I had on hand to space out the tape evenly from the grips.
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3) I found that #8 bolts fit almost perfectly inside of the end of the Adams shafts I ordered. I purchased #8 fender washers and JB-Welded the washers and bolts together to form the "stop" at the end of the shaft. This helps hold the 5/16" washers I used for weight in place.
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4) 5/16" washers make up the weights. In an ideal world, I'd rather have machined something from round stock, but without easy access to a lathe or mill this made the most sense. I, of course, failed to record the number of washers needed for ideal weights. However, my notes do say seven of the washers weighed between 79 and 80 grams. I carefully JB-Welded the washers to each other so they would be a single mass. This was tricky because I needed them to be pretty near perfect to fit over the end of the shaft.
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5) I have no picture, unfortunately, but I club epoxied the bolt/washer combination to the end of the shafts and allowed it to cure. I lightly abraded the interior of the shaft with some 100 grit sandpaper.
6) I also abraded the end of the shafts where the washers were to be epoxied with 100 grit sandpaper. I then club epoxied the washer weights into place and allowed them to cure hanging down (a jig made from scrap 2x4).
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7) I applied two coats of Plasti-Dip to the washer end. This made up for a few remaining grams of weight I needed and added a slightly more finished appearance.
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All in all, I managed to get within two grams of the SuperSpeed specs on all six sticks I made (2 of each weight). I am very happy with how they turned out. The only thing I might change is to forgo buying the separate club epoxy and use JB-Weld for everything. The PSI rating of the JB-Weld far exceeds the club shafting epoxy, and I see no reason why I'd ever need to remove the heads. 
My only concern in this design is the bolts inside of the shaft. I doubt the shafts are designed for their being a mass inside of the shaft pressing outward (when swinging) and I've read plenty about just epoxy inside of shaft tip weakening the shaft.
I just wanted to pass along the materials list and procedure I used in case anyone else was looking at doing the same. Hope this helps someone.
 
 

Just saw this, nice job


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy
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22 hours ago, Flog4 said:

So several of you built the speed trainer...What were your results of using? Before/After swing speeds?

I've been tracking over in the official thread, where they welcomed us non-participants and DIYers to post as well:

I have gotten (much) faster. Now, I've also been changing my swing over the past year since starting to take golf seriously, so I'm sure that is responsible for a lot of progress as well. But, since raw numbers are fun to post, I started last winter swinging a driver between 95-100 MPH. My goal by the end of next season is to see that number closer to 110-115 MPH. When swinging well this past summer, I was around 103-108 MPH.

I haven't been measured on a Trackman in a long time, I am hoping to go again in a few weeks. 

My ultimate goal is to exceed 170 MPH ball speed with the driver.

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54 year old guy with about a 90mph swingspeed. Used to be about 97mph. 5' tall doesn't offer much in the way of long arms for leverage. 

So I've got to get more speed. I removed the 20 year old driver head with a heat gun and took the shaft to HD. None of the threaded rods fit very well so I came back to this thread again. The ferrule remained on the shaft and it looks like there is an insert in the shaft. If I could have fit a threaded rod in the insert it would have only gone in maybe just over an inch. So does this.. what I am calling insert need to be removed via heat or cutting it out?

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10 hours ago, pauly99 said:

54 year old guy with about a 90mph swingspeed. Used to be about 97mph. 5' tall doesn't offer much in the way of long arms for leverage. 

So I've got to get more speed. I removed the 20 year old driver head with a heat gun and took the shaft to HD. None of the threaded rods fit very well so I came back to this thread again. The ferrule remained on the shaft and it looks like there is an insert in the shaft. If I could have fit a threaded rod in the insert it would have only gone in maybe just over an inch. So does this.. what I am calling insert need to be removed via heat or cutting it out?

do you have a picture to better explain? thx

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If I had found a threaded rod which fit in the end of this club, it would only have gone in about an inch. My thought was I need to remove this insert or extension?

Capture1.PNG

Capture2.PNG

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Ok. Drilled through the opening and I think I've gone through some gunked up glue/epoxy and can easily put the drill bit through a few inches. I now need to find the correct threaded rod.

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Ok. Drilled through the opening and I think I've gone through some gunked up glue/epoxy and can easily put the drill bit through a few inches. I now need to find the correct threaded rod.
Are you planning to do the washer route or solid weight?
If you are using washers just get a bolt with that diameter and use one with a big head to hold washers.
Good luck I have been using miss without any issue for the last 3-4 months and it's been flawless.

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app

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1 hour ago, pozzit said:

Are you planning to do the washer route or solid weight?
If you are using washers just get a bolt with that diameter and use one with a big head to hold washers.
Good luck I have been using miss without any issue for the last 3-4 months and it's been flawless.
 

I will be using washers. HD didn't have the threaded rod I needed so I'll check out Menards tomorrow. Picked up some Gorilla epoxy as well as Plasti Dip. Looking forward to getting this going. I'm assuming you used the bolt (screw head) instead of a wingnut and just epoxied everything in?


 

 

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Yep and epoxied the hell out of it. was a little worried about them flying off but have had no issues. I just used JB weld so gorilla epoxy should be perfect.

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19 hours ago, pozzit said:

Yep and epoxied the hell out of it. was a little worried about them flying off but have had no issues. I just used JB weld so gorilla epoxy should be perfect.

Slow but sure now. I have a new player as of mid last year with the Cobra F8 and that weighs in at 315 grams. My previous TaylorMade Burner Superfast came in at 296 grams. Wow. It felt like the Cobra F8 was heavier but I didn't realize by that much. Hmmmmm. Either way I hit it better so I'll be basing the medium weight on that club.

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This thread inspired me to make my own training stick.  Just purchased the first of the materials yesterday.  I'm going to try and incorporate some of my favorite ideas from this thread and can't wait to show you guys how it turns out.

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3 hours ago, skrupa15 said:

This thread inspired me to make my own training stick.  Just purchased the first of the materials yesterday.  I'm going to try and incorporate some of my favorite ideas from this thread and can't wait to show you guys how it turns out.

Good luck! I still use my set regularly and have had no issues with the weights so far. The grips, however, will need to be replaced at sometime in the near future. I will probably splurge for Star Sidewinders when I do that. 

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Finished. I can clean it up a bit but ugly still works. I epoxied the HE double hockey stick out of it but I think I'll still give it a swing for a while in the garage area as I don't want it to go through the neighbors windows. Now to measure a starting mph point with the Cobra F8 and starting point with the speed... what the heck are we calling this?

Thank you very much for the tips.  

 

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