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BenjaminButtonz

Can Stamping Wedges “damage/alter” a clubs specs?

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I’ve always been curious to know how easily you can bend a club out of spec when stamping letters on them. I understand if the club is sitting with not much support across the face, of course you could bend a hosel with a 4lb steel mallet in your hand. I’ve always used double sided tape across the face, then stuck the club face to a block of steel or my workbench before stamping. This ensures the club doesn’t slip or wiggle when hit, and helps against having to re-stamp a letter. I do not have significant experience in this by any means, and have only practiced on my older wedges until I feel confident enough to “pimp” my Gamers. I’ve seen plenty of tour trucks using a custom molded block of steel that allows the club to sit perfectly Inside, with added magnets in the block to hold the club in place as well. I’ve searched high and low for one of these, and am confident the only way I’m scoring one is if one falls off a tour truck.

 

Curious to hear any tips/tricks you spies use when stamping your own wedges? If anything I’ve found out you really have to commit to that hammer-swing without any hesitation that you may make a mistake. I’ve “babied” a few swings in fear of going to hard and bending a wedge which resulted in by the cleanest stamp in the end. I also don’t have the tools or equipment to check my wedge after to ensure the loft & lie were maintained during the process and unharmed.

 

Someone please tell me I’m over-thinking all of this and that the wedges can take much more abuse than I give them credit for.

 

Thanks for any help and insight!

 

Cheers,

Ben

 

 

 

 

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I haven’t stamped a wedge but you are probably overthinking.

If you anchor the club as you say you improve the stamp quality. Unless you are stamping on the hosel you probably won’t have an issue. Remember that you swing these clubs at about 80 MPH and slam them into the ground. You can bend them just taking a normal swing and I don’t think you are concerned about that.

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I’ve always used a work bench some clamps and a towel. Like the first post mentioned as long as you support the club properly there shouldn’t be much if any risk of change or damage.


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Right Handed

4.5 handicap

Driver: Nike Vapor Flex with Mitsubishi Rayon Fubuki ZT60x5ct S-flex shaft and stock grip.

3-Metal: Nike VRS 15 degree with Mitsubishi Rayon tour issue Diamana S73x5ct X-flex shaft and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grip.

Irons: Ben Hogan PTx 22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42, 46 degrees standard length and lie with KBS Tour-V stiff shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips.

Wedges: Ben Hogan TK15 54, 58 degrees with KBS Tour-V X-flex shafts and GolfPride MCC midsize Black/White grips.

Putter: Nike Method Converge B1|01 with Superstroke Flatso 2.0 grip.

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Unless you are clamping it by the shaft or hosel and striking the back of the face there is zero danger of bending a club out of spec.

You're over thinking it.

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You have all confirmed my thoughts. I’m pumped to finally get to work on the Gamers. Thanks everyone for the tips and help beating this mind-block.


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You have all confirmed my thoughts. I’m pumped to finally get to work on the Gamers. Thanks everyone for the tips and help beating this mind-block.


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

Will update and post pictures when finished with the project in another post. Winter is prime time for these idle hands tackle projects as such. Also regrouped my entire set last week and the itch has only gotten worse since.


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From what I have been reading no. The only thing g I saw was make sure you stamp the thickest part of the club. It can stamp through the face. 


Driver: Titleist Titanium 983K, 10.5, Aldial Green 85-X

FW: Nike Covert VRS 2.0, 15, Kuro Kage 70G

Hybrid: Adams A4 3H, 18,  Rayon Javlnfx h80

Iron: JPX 900 Forged 4-5 JPX 900 Tour 6-PW, Project X 5.5

Wedges:SM7 50 F Grind, 54 S Grind, 60 D Grind

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot 9, Superstroke Flatso 1.0 grip

Ball: Titleist Prov1x

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1 hour ago, martymar112 said:

From what I have been reading no. The only thing g I saw was make sure you stamp the thickest part of the club. It can stamp through the face. 

Not sure where you read that but I have two wedges that have multiple stamps across the top of the wedge and no stamps came thru the face and pretty much every stamp is done on the top half of the wedge


Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

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4 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

Not sure where you read that but I have two wedges that have multiple stamps across the top of the wedge and no stamps came thru the face and pretty much every stamp is done on the top half of the wedge

I watched a youtube video with Aaron Dill and he talked about making sure you try to stamp it on the thickest part. go to 2:10

 

 

 

 

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Driver: Titleist Titanium 983K, 10.5, Aldial Green 85-X

FW: Nike Covert VRS 2.0, 15, Kuro Kage 70G

Hybrid: Adams A4 3H, 18,  Rayon Javlnfx h80

Iron: JPX 900 Forged 4-5 JPX 900 Tour 6-PW, Project X 5.5

Wedges:SM7 50 F Grind, 54 S Grind, 60 D Grind

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot 9, Superstroke Flatso 1.0 grip

Ball: Titleist Prov1x

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14 minutes ago, martymar112 said:

I watched a youtube video with Aaron Dill and he talked about making sure you try to stamp it on the thickest part. go to 2:10

 

 

 

 

 

68859C57-E032-4B69-8CA9-F176BAB1D53D.jpeg

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Driver: Titleist 917D3 9.5 with Graphite Design MAD Pro 65g S

Wood: Titleist 917F2 with UST Mamiya Helium 5F4

Hybrid: Titleist 816H1 21 with Atmos Blue 85 S

Irons: Titleist 718 AP3 4i, 718 CB 5-6, MB 7-9 with KBS $ Taper 125

Wedges: Vokey SM7 46/50/54/60 with DG s200

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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