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Martin Kusk

Test og lie angle / lenght of club

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Hi guys.

I did a sharpie test today, to check out if my lie is correct. I am playing a set +0,5” and 1 * upright.

Results were pretty consistant. The line was perfectly vertical every time, however the line was generally slightly towards the toe of the club.

Any ideas of how to interpret this?

 

Thanks

 

 

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Towards the toe means upright and would need to go flatter.  What was your ball flight?

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Yup, first question is how is your ball flight and what is your miss?  If you find yourself pulling/hooking things a lot you could go flatter.  If you are generally happy with your ball flight then I wouldn't adjust anything just based on a sharpie line test.

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The line was vertical. Which means that the lie is correct. If you go flatter your line will no longer be vertical. If I am reading this correctly you are saying that the line is vertical, but it is out toward the toe, which I would take as the ball is not striking the middle of the face. That seems to be setup not lie angle. 

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7 minutes ago, Kor.A.Door said:

The line was vertical. Which means that the lie is correct. If you go flatter your line will no longer be vertical. If I am reading this correctly you are saying that the line is vertical, but it is out toward the toe, which I would take as the ball is not striking the middle of the face. That seems to be setup not lie angle. 

That's how I took it too. 

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7 hours ago, Kor.A.Door said:

The line was vertical. Which means that the lie is correct. If you go flatter your line will no longer be vertical. If I am reading this correctly you are saying that the line is vertical, but it is out toward the toe, which I would take as the ball is not striking the middle of the face. That seems to be setup not lie angle. 

Correct. You may want to check shaft length too, which is slightly too long (assuming your set up is perfect lol) which accounts for towards the toe hits.

As always, check your metrics first. By that I mean actual measurements. It's all very well saying that they are "1 degree upright and +0.5" long" - but from what? They were originally 18" long with a 30 degree lie angle?. In other words, have a reference measurement to start from (this will be the OEM spec or 'blueprint' measurement). From that you can extrapolate real data, rather than any of this 1up x long guff. In fitting we only use one specific term for length and lie - and that is the correct length and lie. The deviation up or down is irrelevant.

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Not sure I'm picking up what some are putting down here.

OEM specs are just that Your starting point. Good engineers spent good capital making those clubs. They are made to spec, you start there.

So, if you go up 1* from spec or down 1* those are YOUR Specs from OEM. 

You can't say it's your correct specs. It's your specs from OEM You just can't bend a Titleist iron 8* up. So if that's your correct specs you need a different starting point i.e. New iron design.

I'll sum it up, up or down is relevant from OEM. If someone comes to me asking me to bend an iron 8* up from OEM I wont do it. UP and Down are used from the OEM spec. You can't just say I need an iron 63* @ 31* Ill say what head, then I'll tell you if it can be done from the OEM spec.

You are using the correct terms UP n DOWN. 

Too DOWN (flat) goes right

Too UP goes left

10shot

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18 minutes ago, 10shot said:

Not sure I'm picking up what some are putting down here.

OEM specs are just that Your starting point. Good engineers spent good capital making those clubs. They are made to spec, you start there.

So, if you go up 1* from spec or down 1* those are YOUR Specs from OEM. 

You can't say it's your correct specs. It's your specs from OEM You just can't bend a Titleist iron 8* up. So if that's your correct specs you need a different starting point i.e. New iron design.

I'll sum it up, up or down is relevant from OEM. If someone comes to me asking me to bend an iron 8* up from OEM I wont do it. UP and Down are used from the OEM spec. You can't just say I need an iron 63* @ 31* Ill say what head, then I'll tell you if it can be done from the OEM spec.

You are using the correct terms UP n DOWN. 

Too DOWN (flat) goes right

Too UP goes left

10shot

Are you saying 63* isn’t really 63* for everyone? If I know I need 63* it doesn’t matter if it’s 1* or 3* from what the oem built it’s 63*. 

 

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5 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

Are you saying 63* isn’t really 63* for everyone? If I know I need 63* it doesn’t matter if it’s 1* or 3* from what the oem built it’s 63*. 

 

Hello, it may be 63*, however, if the OEM spec is 58* I won't bend it 5*. My only point, OEM is the starting point you go up or down xx degrees from there.Too many angle changes/ bounce with that big of bend. 

 If a club bender is willing to bend your club more than 3* I wouldn't do business there. IMO you need a different club design. Long face equals flatter lie, due to shaft bend, longer / shorter shaft to change angle etc.

Same goes for swing weight anything over 10 gram is starting to change other Dynamics of the club. Better to lengthen or shorten the shaft, lighter grip etc. Then just plain old lead weight in the hossle or tape. I'm not talking about vari weight OEM systems, plain old lead, tungsten.

 

Sry if my writing seems caustic it ain't meant to be.

Enjoy your game.

10 shot

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1 hour ago, 10shot said:

Hello, it may be 63*, however, if the OEM spec is 58* I won't bend it 5*. My only point, OEM is the starting point you go up or down xx degrees from there.Too many angle changes/ bounce with that big of bend. 

 If a club bender is willing to bend your club more than 3* I wouldn't do business there. IMO you need a different club design. Long face equals flatter lie, due to shaft bend, longer / shorter shaft to change angle etc.

Same goes for swing weight anything over 10 gram is starting to change other Dynamics of the club. Better to lengthen or shorten the shaft, lighter grip etc. Then just plain old lead weight in the hossle or tape. I'm not talking about vari weight OEM systems, plain old lead, tungsten.

 

Sry if my writing seems caustic it ain't meant to be.

Enjoy your game.

10 shot

Depending on the material 4* is about max and yes I agree that 5 or more would be crazy. The good thing is that most manufacturers are within about 2* of each other.  

 

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