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Refinished Iron Heads


mj21
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Refinished Iron Heads - Bluing Miznuno Irons

 

I had an old set of MP30 irons that were looking a little tough so I though I would try to refinish them.

 

The first step was to remove the original finish. After some research online and a couple of phone calls I decided to let a pro do this. It was well worth it (only cost $30). It can be done yourself and there is alot of information online about stripping chrome from both the automotive and firearm crowds.

 

After the chrome was stripped I sandblasted the heads to give them a consistent finish and take out some of the nicks and scratches. I then taped off the faces and "polished" the rest of the head with a "scotchbrite" â„¢ pad. This was not a high gloss finish, more of a satin finish. I am sure more polishing could be done with steel wool.

 

I then applied a "bluing" (4oz bottle purchased at local gun shop) solution to the heads. I wiped it evenly around each head for about 1 minute then rinsed them off.

 

The final step was the paintfill (thanks to previous posts for the tips).

 

One suprise that I have had is the headweights. In trying to precalc my swingweight I weighed the heads and they are quite light. My 9 iron head is only 260g. I am not sure if the original plating would have made up this difference as I didn't weight them prior to stripping. I am planning on using new DGS300 shafts in them with 47g grips so I guess I will have to do some tip weighting prior to reassembling them to get my swingweights back to around D2. Any tips here would be appreciated. Is tungsten powder the way to go?

 

Can't wait for the snow to go!!!!

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Looks like you did a good job. Only thing is they are turned the wrong way for me to hit

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Nice work

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Nice work

 

 

I'm going to say "ditto". Very pretty!

 

As far as weighting goes, tungsten would work. You use less when compared to lead powder. If my calculations are correct (and I'm not sure, but this is why I don't work for NASA) it looks like you'll end up with a SW of C1 (C1!). I'm going with the 40" model TTDG, the one that's going for $14 at Golfsmith.

 

Anyway, that's 11 swing weight points that need to be recouped. 3g in the head equals 1 swingweight point. So to get to D2 you'd need 33g to make up the difference! That's not very feasible... if it's all powder and it's put in the hosel, that's enough to shift the head's CG location enough to effect playability. It'll also soften the shaft's flex quite a bit. High density lead tape (or those rubber/tungsten stickers that GolfWorks sells... I really like those) could be used in conjunction with the powder, but from a personal standpoint, I wouldn't want a bunch of tape messing up such a good refinish job.

 

~9g in the shaft can effect one SW point, but since TTDG's are already some of the heaviest shafts available, this doesn't seem to be a feasible way to go. I'm also still assuming I'm using the correct shaft, so really this could go either way.

 

It takes about a 5g difference in weight in the grip to effect one SW point. Unfortunately, I can't think of any method short of not using a grip that won't have an eventual effect on your clubhead's center of gravity location. If you use a grip like the Winn Lite, you could raise the SW py 4-5 points, but that'll only get you to C5 or C6, with 6 more SW points (18g) more needed.

 

I very well could be missing something, but I've been wracking my brain for a bit now trying to think of something else and can't seem to do it. If I think of something, I'll add another post.

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I'm going to say "ditto". Very pretty!

 

As far as weighting goes, tungsten would work. You use less when compared to lead powder. If my calculations are correct (and I'm not sure, but this is why I don't work for NASA) it looks like you'll end up with a SW of C1 (C1!). I'm going with the 40" model TTDG, the one that's going for $14 at Golfsmith.

 

Anyway, that's 11 swing weight points that need to be recouped. 3g in the head equals 1 swingweight point. So to get to D2 you'd need 33g to make up the difference! That's not very feasible... if it's all powder and it's put in the hosel, that's enough to shift the head's CG location enough to effect playability. It'll also soften the shaft's flex quite a bit. High density lead tape (or those rubber/tungsten stickers that GolfWorks sells... I really like those) could be used in conjunction with the powder, but from a personal standpoint, I wouldn't want a bunch of tape messing up such a good refinish job.

 

~9g in the shaft can effect one SW point, but since TTDG's are already some of the heaviest shafts available, this doesn't seem to be a feasible way to go. I'm also still assuming I'm using the correct shaft, so really this could go either way.

 

It takes about a 5g difference in weight in the grip to effect one SW point. Unfortunately, I can't think of any method short of not using a grip that won't have an eventual effect on your clubhead's center of gravity location. If you use a grip like the Winn Lite, you could raise the SW py 4-5 points, but that'll only get you to C5 or C6, with 6 more SW points (18g) more needed.

 

I very well could be missing something, but I've been wracking my brain for a bit now trying to think of something else and can't seem to do it. If I think of something, I'll add another post.

 

Thanks for the insight. I was looking at some club specs online and it looks like my heads are about 25g lighter than most. Do you think that the original plating would have been that heavy or would these possibly be some sort of special head. Note: I got them off a used rack a number of years ago, therefore I have no idea what the history of them was. They had a stepless shafts in them that were standard lengths and have a total weight of 170g with a v-55 cord grip and a tip weight in them (no idea what weight though). I don't even know what the original swingweight was but I just ordered a scale so I hope to check it in a couple of days.

 

They were just taking up space in a spare bag in my basement and this was supposed to be a fun winter project to get me started on club building. It might be a bigger deal than I anticipated. The x-forged that I currently use are D2 so I wanted to get these the same. Maybe it isn't in the cards though and they will just be a better looking set taking up space in a spare bag in the basement.

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  • 7 months later...

I love the black finish! Looks mad sick

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  • 5 years later...

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