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Callaway great big bertha HOOK MONSTER


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I recently bought an unused great big bertha driver largely for the shaft in it (ust elements gold) but found it hooks like crazy. I have always been a draw-er of the driver but not to this degree. Anyone else have this problem with this driver and how to remedy it 

Driver - great big bertha (elements gold 7f5)

3wood - rogue (hzrdus yellow 75)

2hybrid - vapor flex (kuro kage 85)

Irons - i210s (dg 120)

Wedges - Sm4 52/58/64 (stock shaft)

Putter - Scottsdale Tr (flat cat grip)

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The standard configuration on GBB is draw bias -- I don't know if the face is actually closed, but the starting point of the weight is already in a draw position. Assuming you've already moved the weight all the way to fade bias (which is actually somewhat neutral), I can think of a few "cheaper" options, but obviously can't guarantee they'll fit your swing (they all change club weight or lie, which might help in one way but hurt in another): 

  • Lead tape toward the toe of the driver. Try maybe 10g. ($10 or less for a roll)
  • Heavier slide weight, pushed all the way to fade. I've seen up to 12g, but don't know what the stock weight is, so this might not be relevant (~$25)
  • Try swapping out the adapter for the "Tour Flat" model to flatten lie angle by ~0.75*, which naturally pushes the ball a little right. Of course, if you are fitted into standard or upright clubs, don't flatten... (~$40-50 plus installation)

If you're confident the shaft is right for you and it's the head causing more draw/hook, you could also find a "somewhat inexpensive" way to swap out the head. I've done this a couple times in the past now that most Callaway drivers all share an adapter and I use a custom shaft: check used club websites (Callaway Golf Pre-Owned, 2ndSwing, Global Golf, etc.), find the heads/conditions that work for you (ignoring shaft at first), then of those, pick the shaft that you think is most desirable to others. When it shows up, swap out the shafts and sell the old head / new shaft combo (keeping your Elements shaft). Based on age, you might be able to get a decent 816DD and recover most or all of the money by selling the GBB -- the 816 requires a stronger swing, but I don't think it will draw as much. That's probably also true of clubs like the XR16 Pro or Sub Zero. If you go this route, I'd recommend against the Fusion - I think you'll see draw/hook with that one as well. 

 

 

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Driver: :taylormade-small: Stealth Plus 8* (adjusted to 8.75*), Mitsubishi Diamana ZF 70 X Flex

Fairway: :taylormade-small: SIM, 15* (adjusted to 15.75*), Shaft is a 50/50 split between Accra FX 2.0 300F M5 Flex and Paderson Kinetixx Ballistic TP 85 X Flex

Irons:  :titleist-small: T200 "Utility Build" 3 and 4 irons with Graphite Design Tour AD-IZ 95 X Flex, :titleist-small: T100S 5-PW with Nippon Pro Modus 120 X Flex (2021 MGS Test). These things are monsters. 

Wedges: :mizuno-small:T-20 Blue Ion 50.07, :Miura: K-Grind 2.0 Black 56* and Chrome 60* w/Accra SPI Tour

Putter: Total headcase, so it depends on the day. Rotate between :EVNROLL: ER11V ("Murdered Out" Black edition),  :mizuno-small: M Craft Type II Blue Ion and a Toulon Madison 

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2 hours ago, ChiefMikeOfficer said:

The standard configuration on GBB is draw bias -- I don't know if the face is actually closed, but the starting point of the weight is already in a draw position. Assuming you've already moved the weight all the way to fade bias (which is actually somewhat neutral), I can think of a few "cheaper" options, but obviously can't guarantee they'll fit your swing (they all change club weight or lie, which might help in one way but hurt in another): 

  • Lead tape toward the toe of the driver. Try maybe 10g. ($10 or less for a roll)
  • Heavier slide weight, pushed all the way to fade. I've seen up to 12g, but don't know what the stock weight is, so this might not be relevant (~$25)
  • Try swapping out the adapter for the "Tour Flat" model to flatten lie angle by ~0.75*, which naturally pushes the ball a little right. Of course, if you are fitted into standard or upright clubs, don't flatten... (~$40-50 plus installation)

If you're confident the shaft is right for you and it's the head causing more draw/hook, you could also find a "somewhat inexpensive" way to swap out the head. I've done this a couple times in the past now that most Callaway drivers all share an adapter and I use a custom shaft: check used club websites (Callaway Golf Pre-Owned, 2ndSwing, Global Golf, etc.), find the heads/conditions that work for you (ignoring shaft at first), then of those, pick the shaft that you think is most desirable to others. When it shows up, swap out the shafts and sell the old head / new shaft combo (keeping your Elements shaft). Based on age, you might be able to get a decent 816DD and recover most or all of the money by selling the GBB -- the 816 requires a stronger swing, but I don't think it will draw as much. That's probably also true of clubs like the XR16 Pro or Sub Zero. If you go this route, I'd recommend against the Fusion - I think you'll see draw/hook with that one as well. 

 

 

Thanks definitely will try

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Never had hooking problems with that driver. The adjustable weight really does work on that model (and other Callaways also), slide that over to fade and make sure the loft isn't set to one of the D positions. 

In my  :wilson_staff_small:  carry bag:
:callaway-small: Mavrik Max 10.5* R Flex Evenflow RipTide
:cleveland-small: Hy-Wood
:cleveland-small: Launcher 5h
:wilson_staff_small: D7 6i-GW
:cleveland-small: CBX 54* & 58*
:cleveland-small: Huntington Beach #10
:bridgestone-small: e12 Contact
 

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Or... just open the face and regrip and rip. Do that at the range until you figure it out. Then grip it there from now on. You could even go so fare as putting a piece of painters tape on the club right below the grip and make a mark at the point that’s straight up when you find it, then put a new grip, or adjust the current one.

its usually the Indian,  not the arrow...

:callaway-small: MavriK Sub Zero 9* on EvenFlow RipTide 6.0 50g

:cobra-small: Speedzone 3-wood on Tensi blue S

:cobra-small: F8 5/6 wood on Aldila NxT GEN MLT R

:taylormade-small: P770 / P790 combo set on Ventus R-6 shafts 5-AW

:Hogan: Combo iron set -8,9,per Icon 5,6,7 PtxPro 4-UiHi on Recoil 780 ES f4 Stiff shafts (second best clubs ever)

:benhogan-small: Equalizer 50°, 54°, 60° wedges on Recoil 780 f4

:edel-golf-1: E.A.S. #4   (“Fang” or “Adele”)
 

:titelist-small: ProV1x

:callaway-small: .Org 14 cart bag

Adidas Tour 360 shoes

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Try finding a left handed adapter- the upright setting should flatten it (it's reversed)- not sure what this does for loft settings.

WITB: 

Adams 9064LS 9.5* (until I cracked the face)

Adams Super LS 17*

Adams XTD Ti 23*

Wilson Staff Ci7 4-PW

Adams wedges: 52/7 56/13 60/7

Wilson Staff Infinite Southside putter/Odyssey DualForce 660 putter

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Try finding a left handed adapter- the upright setting should flatten it (it's reversed)- not sure what this does for loft settings.

I do not believe this is case with this adapter. The upright setting should be be upright. The loft setting should be the only thing reversed.


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

 

 

 

What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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Ok I stand corrected- thanks for the heads up!

WITB: 

Adams 9064LS 9.5* (until I cracked the face)

Adams Super LS 17*

Adams XTD Ti 23*

Wilson Staff Ci7 4-PW

Adams wedges: 52/7 56/13 60/7

Wilson Staff Infinite Southside putter/Odyssey DualForce 660 putter

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