Callaway great big bertha HOOK MONSTER

[walker.1771 1]

I recently bought an unused great big bertha driver largely for the shaft in it (ust elements gold) but found it hooks like crazy. I have always been a draw-er of the driver but not to this degree. Anyone else have this problem with this driver and how to remedy it 

Driver - great big bertha (elements gold 7f5)

3wood - rogue (hzrdus yellow 75)

2hybrid - vapor flex (kuro kage 85)

Irons - i210s (dg 120)

Wedges - Sm4 52/58/64 (stock shaft)

Putter - Scottsdale Tr (flat cat grip)

[RG123 2]

some sort of weight change causing you to close the face more? or visually setting up with the face closed causing you to strike it with the face more closed to path than usual.

 

[ChiefMikeOfficer 640]

The standard configuration on GBB is draw bias -- I don't know if the face is actually closed, but the starting point of the weight is already in a draw position. Assuming you've already moved the weight all the way to fade bias (which is actually somewhat neutral), I can think of a few "cheaper" options, but obviously can't guarantee they'll fit your swing (they all change club weight or lie, which might help in one way but hurt in another): 

• Lead tape toward the toe of the driver. Try maybe 10g. ($10 or less for a roll)
• Heavier slide weight, pushed all the way to fade. I've seen up to 12g, but don't know what the stock weight is, so this might not be relevant (~$25)
• Try swapping out the adapter for the "Tour Flat" model to flatten lie angle by ~0.75*, which naturally pushes the ball a little right. Of course, if you are fitted into standard or upright clubs, don't flatten... (~$40-50 plus installation)

If you're confident the shaft is right for you and it's the head causing more draw/hook, you could also find a "somewhat inexpensive" way to swap out the head. I've done this a couple times in the past now that most Callaway drivers all share an adapter and I use a custom shaft: check used club websites (Callaway Golf Pre-Owned, 2ndSwing, Global Golf, etc.), find the heads/conditions that work for you (ignoring shaft at first), then of those, pick the shaft that you think is most desirable to others. When it shows up, swap out the shafts and sell the old head / new shaft combo (keeping your Elements shaft). Based on age, you might be able to get a decent 816DD and recover most or all of the money by selling the GBB -- the 816 requires a stronger swing, but I don't think it will draw as much. That's probably also true of clubs like the XR16 Pro or Sub Zero. If you go this route, I'd recommend against the Fusion - I think you'll see draw/hook with that one as well. 

 

 

[walker.1771 1]

2 hours ago, ChiefMikeOfficer said:

The standard configuration on GBB is draw bias -- I don't know if the face is actually closed, but the starting point of the weight is already in a draw position. Assuming you've already moved the weight all the way to fade bias (which is actually somewhat neutral), I can think of a few "cheaper" options, but obviously can't guarantee they'll fit your swing (they all change club weight or lie, which might help in one way but hurt in another): 

• Lead tape toward the toe of the driver. Try maybe 10g. ($10 or less for a roll)
• Heavier slide weight, pushed all the way to fade. I've seen up to 12g, but don't know what the stock weight is, so this might not be relevant (~$25)
• Try swapping out the adapter for the "Tour Flat" model to flatten lie angle by ~0.75*, which naturally pushes the ball a little right. Of course, if you are fitted into standard or upright clubs, don't flatten... (~$40-50 plus installation)

If you're confident the shaft is right for you and it's the head causing more draw/hook, you could also find a "somewhat inexpensive" way to swap out the head. I've done this a couple times in the past now that most Callaway drivers all share an adapter and I use a custom shaft: check used club websites (Callaway Golf Pre-Owned, 2ndSwing, Global Golf, etc.), find the heads/conditions that work for you (ignoring shaft at first), then of those, pick the shaft that you think is most desirable to others. When it shows up, swap out the shafts and sell the old head / new shaft combo (keeping your Elements shaft). Based on age, you might be able to get a decent 816DD and recover most or all of the money by selling the GBB -- the 816 requires a stronger swing, but I don't think it will draw as much. That's probably also true of clubs like the XR16 Pro or Sub Zero. If you go this route, I'd recommend against the Fusion - I think you'll see draw/hook with that one as well. 

 

 

Thanks definitely will try

[russtopherb 9,380]

Never had hooking problems with that driver. The adjustable weight really does work on that model (and other Callaways also), slide that over to fade and make sure the loft isn't set to one of the D positions. 

[Sluggo42 7,635]

Or... just open the face and regrip and rip. Do that at the range until you figure it out. Then grip it there from now on. You could even go so fare as putting a piece of painters tape on the club right below the grip and make a mark at the point that’s straight up when you find it, then put a new grip, or adjust the current one.

its usually the Indian,  not the arrow...

[AH1980MN 940]

Try finding a left handed adapter- the upright setting should flatten it (it's reversed)- not sure what this does for loft settings.

[blackngold_blood 6,738]

Try finding a left handed adapter- the upright setting should flatten it (it's reversed)- not sure what this does for loft settings.

I do not believe this is case with this adapter. The upright setting should be be upright. The loft setting should be the only thing reversed.


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

[AH1980MN 940]

Ok I stand corrected- thanks for the heads up!