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First, that was a really fun read. Great post!

On the wedges: my first question is, what do you use your wedges for? In my case, I could call my PW and GW my 10 and 11 iron. I almost never use them for anything other than full swings. For that reason, I use the PW and GW (or UW) that are part of my G700 set.

My SW and LW are the clubs that I demand versatility from, for hitting a variety of short game shots, so that's where I'm my bag I switch to speciality wedges.

So for my part, that's the question I'd present to you too guide your choice.

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29 minutes ago, GolfSpy MPR said:

First, that was a really fun read. Great post!

On the wedges: my first question is, what do you use your wedges for? In my case, I could call my PW and GW my 10 and 11 iron. I almost never use them for anything other than full swings. For that reason, I use the PW and GW (or UW) that are part of my G700 set.

My SW and LW are the clubs that I demand versatility from, for hitting a variety of short game shots, so that's where I'm my bag I switch to speciality wedges.

So for my part, that's the question I'd present to you too guide your choice.

Thanks.  It's been an interesting journey and fun sharing with the forum.  Regarding my wedges (or more like lack thereof), I typically use my PW at near full swing at ~80 yards and throttle as needed into about 40 yards.  From there in, unless I need to flight a trap, tree, shrubs, etc., I play a bump and run with my 8i.  As you know we've had plenty of threads and discussion around wedges - many bagging 3 or more.  It seems our lower handicappers tend to use multiple wedges.  Not sure I need/want all 4 options available, but think 2, maybe 3 would give me a solid combination to perhaps compliment (or replace) the bump and run.  Here's where I'm hoping some of our "Wedge Play SME's" can help.

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If it were me, I’d include the pw and the Aw. Then I’d get a sub70 sand and lob wedge, say a 54° and a 58°, with matching shafts (or whatever you feel is needed) and grips And then I’d spend more time learning how the 58° can be used instead of using a bump and run 8 iron.

but!

thats just how I would do it. I would rather take all the “bad bounce” variables out of the picture, and just pitch a 58° up tight.

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Nice read!  If you used your PE2 PW a lot, you will need the UW for similar shots.  I'm assuming that you are getting the G410's in graphite.  However, if you add specialty SW and/or LW, I recommend getting steel shafts.  You want some weight in those clubs, and the standard Ping graphite shafts are fairly light.  My preference is both SW and LW, but that's just me.  If you really only want a SW to replace your Dad's old SW, then I would opt for a 56º/58º, and spend some time considering which bounce to get that would allow the best shots out of your typical sand, as well as other around the green shots.  I use a 58º for most shots around the green, even in bunkers when they have minimal sand.  My SW is almost exclusively for bunker play when sand is aplenty.

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2 hours ago, Kenny B said:

I'm assuming that you are getting the G410's in graphite

No. We tested the graphite (PING CB), but actually ended up back with steel - changing from the PX 5.5 LZ to the AWT 2.0 in the +1 length.  These matched well with the PE2 swing weight which is D2.

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I agree with sluggo and Kenny. PW and UW. And  add a specialty SW, you can even add LW at a later date. I play 4 wedges for gaping purposes but only the PW matches my set. I have found over the years that having AW, SW & LW with separate bounces and or grinds than my irons allows me to play a variety of shots with each. 

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Love the post, it's a great description of your very patient search for new irons. Have you considered the Ping Glide wedges? 

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2 hours ago, Nunfa0 said:

Love the post, it's a great description of your very patient search for new irons. Have you considered the Ping Glide wedges? 

It sounds like I need to - they get lots of great kudo's.  In fact, I posed this same question to my fitter and he suggested adding one or more of these in lieu of the G410 wedges.  Not having been a wedge centric player all these years, this is new territory for me.

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My move from the "standard" wedges that came with my irons to the Glides was one of my better golf decisions. I've kept the PW for gapping but carry 3 Glides at all times. Though I will use my 50* & 54* for mostly full swing approach shots, they do indeed offer some versatility for other shots too and allow me to be creative when the need arises. The 58* or the 60* (depending on what mood I'm in to carry) is still one of the more used clubs in my bag. I love all of those wedges and once you learn to "trust" the bounce they really do (IMHO) out-perform the standard wide-sole wedge offerings of a standard set of PING irons. Try some different ones if you can. There are a lot of great wedges out there and I'm sure you'll find some you like that'll be better than what comes "standard".

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I just read this from Chris Nickels review on these irons.  Suggests they are basically the "Glide 2.0" wedges?

https://mygolfspy.com/2019-ping-g410-irons/

Progressing through the set, PING uses the same wedge technology and geometry on the G410 PW, UW, SW and LW as it does in the Glide 2.0 wedges, which were named MyGolfSpy’s Most Wanted wedge of 2018.

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Posted (edited)

Sounds like they would be perfect for you 😁. Now you just have to decide what lofts to get....

Edited by Nunfa0
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Lots of good suggestions. Answering the wedges vs. woods/hybrids question to get t o 14 clubs is always a matter of play style and gapping requirements. If you have a big yardage gap between your lowest fairway wood and your first iron, and need that yardage than opt for another fairway wood or a 3 hybrid. If you need more yardage and versatility options for near and around the green then an extra wedge is probably the way to go.

Once you decide, definitely keep the lofts consistent with your iron set. 2-3 degrees difference for a hybrid, and 4-5 degrees for the wedges. I use 3 wedges with 4 degrees between each. That gives me a 10 yard gap between each starting at 110 yards, plus an accurate yardage for 3/4 and 1/2 swings with each so I wind up with 9 accurate yardages to use for 110 and in. Once I'm inside the 1/2 swing 58 it becomes a matter of pitch and chip options depending on shot required so I like having the versatility of the 3 lofts.

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On 5/18/2019 at 5:58 PM, fixyurdivot said:

No. We tested the graphite (PING CB), but actually ended up back with steel - changing from the PX 5.5 LZ to the AWT 2.0 in the +1 length.  These matched well with the PE2 swing weight which is D2.

Not sure if it was mentioned by someone else or not, but the Glide 2.0 is a very nice option for you Sand and Lob, and the ES sole grind is meant to replicate the Eye-2 sole. Also, and I shouldn't be telling everyone this, since they are the wedges I'm looking to purchase, but they are on sale right now for $109 on Global Golf.

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My fitter is suggesting 4-PW, add the G410 UW, and a Glide 2.0 56 deg.  This provides the following lofts:

PW 44.5

UW 49.5

2.0 56.0

Thoughts?  Maybe go with a 2.0 in the 50 degree in lieu of the UW?  Going from 30+ years playing just a PW to having 3 in the bag - this will be fun 🙃.

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I would say based on the brief 😉 history you provided that going with the UW would be a good choice. More than likely you will be using it mainly for full shots only and if that is the case matching your set is a good option. 

You will love have 3 wedges to chose from vs. 1. 

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I gamed my late 90's Ping i3 Blades until very recently. Just last month I received my Ping i210's and man what a difference.

I've only played a round and a half but I continue to have great experiences. Ex. I hit a 6 iron on a 198 yard par 3; didn't have a great swing or strike, saying so out loud as soon as I made contact. I still ended up on the green with 35 feet for birdie. You'll love the new set.

I got the PW and UW with my set. Then the Glide 2.0 54* SW. I go up in the air chipping, but with the ability the new wedge groves provide a wide range of shots are available.

Sent using the MyGolfSpy mobile app

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OK, I've decided on the 4-UW and the Glide 2.0 56/SS grind.  One thing we tried during the fitting is moving from a +1/2 inch shaft length to a +1 inch length.  We tried this to see if it the added length helped move the strike zone more from toe (my tendency) towards center - and it did help a bit.  The added length felt OK swinging but I'm reading that adding length can be problematic. 

My static PING fitting, height and wrist to floor measurement, puts me solidly in the +1/2 length.  This is the shaft length I've had on my PE2's and been playing for 30 years.  Here is the data comparing the AWT 2.0 and PX shafts.  The top group being the +1 inch and the other AWT and PX in +1/2 inch.  Also shown at the bottom is the baseline data from my PE2 7i from the fitting last year.

My fitter is saying the +1 inch yields the best performance, but I think we're both a little on the fence not just staying with +1/2.  What are your thoughts looking at the numbers? 

image.png.11c959e3c20fa09c31fcd32636cfd2a8.png

image.png.92e46d5abd2acaa738149a5df848aaed.png

image.png.9a08fcff886819362d05c981d317657e.png

image.png.656f8289097e8b9de0ec298f61f0809e.png

image.png.dab1ba7f908bc0d2cf7d403cc09847b8.png

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I'd trust the fitter. 

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14 hours ago, GB13 said:

I'd trust the fitter. 

I will.  We're going to discuss again this morning before making the order.  Just thought I'd checked with the forum this final decision point - particularly since he seemed a little uncertain about it.  I can always choke down a wee bit.  I see pros doing this quite often.  

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