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Boblopez1

Adjusting irons loft for distance

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Hi gang,

I currently own a set of 2006 snake eyes 600C irons.  I haven't played in some time and was never really happy with my distance I'm 5'6 and 54yo,  Was thinking of buying the tailor made P790 but frankly I can afford them, would it make sense to adjust the loft on these irons by 2゚in order to give myself some more distance?  If so what I have to automatically adjust lie?  And would it make sense to add + .25 shaft lengh,

Thank you

Bob

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Boblopez1 said:

Hi gang,

I currently own a set of 2006 snake eyes 600C irons.  I haven't played in some time and was never really happy with my distance I'm 5'6 and 54yo,  Was thinking of buying the tailor made P790 but frankly I can afford them, would it make sense to adjust the loft on these irons by 2゚in order to give myself some more distance?  If so what I have to automatically adjust lie?  And would it make sense to add + .25 shaft lengh,

Thank you

Bob

IMO, make sure those Snakeyes can be bent. GolfWorks can assist, not all clubs can be bent and, they will break...

You can adjust but remember, when adding loft you're adding bounce. Your clubs could become digger soles not good....for me I don't like diggers

Have fun

Edited by 10shot

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Hi 10Shot,

 I'm hoping they can be bent because they are forged club heads and I'm looking to the decrease loft not add loft so I can get more distance for example I believe the 7 iron is 34゚ I'd like to tighten that up to 32゚. 

Thanks for the GolfWorks tip

Bob

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3 hours ago, Boblopez1 said:

Hi 10Shot,

 I'm hoping they can be bent because they are forged club heads and I'm looking to the decrease loft not add loft so I can get more distance for example I believe the 7 iron is 34゚ I'd like to tighten that up to 32゚. 

Thanks for the GolfWorks tip

 

I would personally advise against adjusting all the clubs stronger.  Doing this does change the bounce of the club and turf interaction.  Performance may also be compromised as the club may launch lower, spin less, and run out more.   This may seem desirable but you may not have consistent performance.   Adding shaft length is potentially a way to gain distance.  

Focus on proper gaping and knowing how far the clubs carry.   You could also look at the used market and do some fittings to see what type of head and shaft works best for you.  

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Rather than bending them just do what all the OEM's are doing these days.

Take a sharpie and cross out the 7.  Write an 8 on it.  Boom, now you are hitting 8i as far as you used to hit 7i.  Then add an extra wedge at the bottom of the bag.

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I don't want to be Capt Obvious,, but I'm a Capt anyways.... but being vertically challenged and 54 years old you may need to seriously look at newer equipment to help with your distance needs. Adjusting 2 degrees strong will kill the bounce of your irons. If you are a true sweeper that may be ok but you may not see that big distance gain you are hoping for.
With your height you obviously need to be fit properly. My advice is to get fit as cheaply as you can and find some newer distance irons on Ebay or BST that can fit you.
Chances are the clubs never fit you right from the get go.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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I agree that bending the clubs to achieve a stronger loft is not the way to go.  The reason clubs have stronger lofts today is they are designed to launch the ball higher.  If lofts weren't strengthened, they would launch too high for most players.  Since your Snake Eyes are almost 14 years old, they would launch lower with no spin as @cnosil said, and they would have poor turf interaction.

I'm assuming that the shafts are steel, since that was common in 2006.  Steel shafts tend to launch lower and give less distance unless your swing speed is fairly high.  Maybe they fit you 14 years ago, but they may not now.  Properly fit graphite shafts are lighter and launch higher than steel for slower swing speeds and will give more distance.  So you could get your irons reshafted, but you will still be losing distance and accuracy to the newer technology irons.  

Your clubs need to fit your swing.  A fitter will determine what combination of club head and shaft will work best for you.  You don't have to buy new... very nice sets of irons a couple of years old can be had for half the price of new and probably about the same price as getting your irons reshafted.

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Hi guys thank you for the responses especially the Sharpie comment I love it lol but actually my issue is that 14 years ago I had a pretty good game and those 600 c's are small and have a thin top line which I absolutely love I cannot deal with a big club head it doesn't work for me. Taking all of your advice I just decided to do nothing and go to the driving range and hit the s*** out of hundreds of balls and my swing is coming back so now I think all I need to do is re shaft and re grip and get a new driver and I think I'll be OK. I'm excited to play again, I kind of moved on from the game after a bad experience at a small town CC. I got into road and mountain biking but 2 years ago I was diagnosed with a blood cancer and I take a chemo drug that's sapped my strenght and staying home was driving me nuts, so I dusted off my clubs and have fallen in love with the game again, lol im obsessed.

 

Thanks guys,

Edited by Boblopez1
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On 10/10/2019 at 8:42 PM, hckymeyer said:

Rather than bending them just do what all the OEM's are doing these days.

Take a sharpie and cross out the 7.  Write an 8 on it.  Boom, now you are hitting 8i as far as you used to hit 7i.  Then add an extra wedge at the bottom of the bag.

Though tongue in cheek, this is the best answer. Play for a while longer, sounds like you are now, and see if you still enjoy golf before dropping $1400 on any irons. Then you can decide if you want to pay a manufacturer to stamp your new irons with one or two club lengths added so your 7 iron is really a 6 or 5 iron. 
 

You certainly don’t need to rush out and get fit either. Height is secondary, wrist to floor length is the key. You can manage just fine with standard length clubs to start. Even if you’re fitted your driver will be about 9” longer than your PW - being a 1/2” long isn’t crucial for now. Fitting is great, but amateurs have gotten carried away with the idea, and finding a good fitter isn’t easy (most free fittings are hit & miss at best). 

Edited by Middler
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... Nothing wrong with bending older irons 1* for better gaping and a hair more distance, but distance gains will be minimal. Keep in mind that even with lower lofts, modern distance irons launch much higher with considerably less spin. The stopping power on greens comes from angle of descent, not spin. In most conditions, this works well but on hard, fast tour level greens (or in deserts) it can be a problem.  

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Hi Gang,

Update I finally decided to go to a club fitter and what 'ya know I've been playing with the wrong equipment for the last 13 years lol turns out my buddy the "club maker" made me set of irons with a C7 swung weight and a 1/2 inch short and my 7iron is 35deg lol no wonder I could barely hit it 140yds with an iron swing speed of 82mph.

Now I'm looking at a set of Srixon Z-785 1deg flat with stiff nippon 105 stepped down shaft with +4 Grips at a D1 swing weight. My god they felt amazing, should have done this a long time ago.

 Thanks everyone

 

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On 10/10/2019 at 7:25 PM, Kenny B said:

I agree that bending the clubs to achieve a stronger loft is not the way to go.  The reason clubs have stronger lofts today is they are designed to launch the ball higher.  If lofts weren't strengthened, they would launch too high for most players.  Since your Snake Eyes are almost 14 years old, they would launch lower with no spin as @cnosil said, and they would have poor turf interaction.

I'm assuming that the shafts are steel, since that was common in 2006.  Steel shafts tend to launch lower and give less distance unless your swing speed is fairly high.  Maybe they fit you 14 years ago, but they may not now.  Properly fit graphite shafts are lighter and launch higher than steel for slower swing speeds and will give more distance.  So you could get your irons reshafted, but you will still be losing distance and accuracy to the newer technology irons.  

Your clubs need to fit your swing.  A fitter will determine what combination of club head and shaft will work best for you.  You don't have to buy new... very nice sets of irons a couple of years old can be had for half the price of new and probably about the same price as getting your irons reshafted.

Interesting,  1 to 2 dgrees bending in either direction is very very common. I do not think it changes bounce all that much. 

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Interesting,  1 to 2 dgrees bending in either direction is very very common. I do not think it changes bounce all that much. 

Yes, bending lifts is common, just not for the entire set as the original poster wanted to do for the purpose of more distance.

 

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Just now, cnosil said:


Yes, bending lifts is common, just not for the entire set as the original poster wanted to do for the purpose of more distance.

Bending the he club changes the bounce by the same amount that you bend the club. 1 degree weaker adds 1 degree of bounce.

Thank you, I was never clear on the relationship between loft and bounce.

 

It is interesting, I literally last night bent my entire set 4-w last night. Some 2 degrees stronger, some 1 degree. my goal is not really more distance but you gap my clubs better and spread out my set. It is a bit of an experiment, and we will see if it makes any practical difference. 

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It is interesting, I literally last night bent my entire set 4-w last night. Some 2 degrees stronger, some 1 degree. my goal is not really more distance but you gap my clubs better and spread out my set. It is a bit of an experiment, and we will see if it makes any practical difference. 

Why bend the entire set? Top and bottom establish the extremes and you fit the other clubs in between.

 

I did take out the part about bounce. I know it changes bounce but it may not be 1 for 1.

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1 minute ago, cnosil said:

Why bend the entire set? Top and bottom establish the extremes and you fit the other clubs in between.

 

I did take out the part about bounce. I know it changes bounce but it may not be 1 for 1.

Here is my reasoning, as stupid as it may be. I play an 18* cobra utility iron, then my irons are mizuno MP18 blades. I pulled the 3 iron out, bent the 4 iron and 5 iron 2* stronger, then the 6 through PW 1* stronger. Then I play a 49, 53, 58, and 64 degree wedges. It was really to pull a club out of the bag and add another, and in my mind the loft progression made sense. 

 

Again, it my be stupid and unfruitful and I may be bending them back. 

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Here is my reasoning, as stupid as it may be. I play an 18* cobra utility iron, then my irons are mizuno MP18 blades. I pulled the 3 iron out, bent the 4 iron and 5 iron 2* stronger, then the 6 through PW 1* stronger. Then I play a 49, 53, 58, and 64 degree wedges. It was really to pull a club out of the bag and add another, and in my mind the loft progression made sense. 
 
Again, it my be stupid and unfruitful and I may be bending them back. 

Hope it works for you. Preferred method it to evaluate carry distances and adjust to get consistent gapping. The loft change may or may not get you the right distances. Have to actually test.

Also, I looked it up and it is a 1:1 ratio of loft change to bounce change.
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4 minutes ago, cnosil said:


Hope it works for you. Preferred method it to evaluate carry distances and adjust to get consistent gapping. The loft change may or may not get you the right distances. Have to actually test.

Also, I looked it up and it is a 1:1 ratio of loft change to bounce change.

That is part of the fun of the game right? Experimenting and adjusting, If it does not work. Oh well, just bend them back no loss. 

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