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Fitting Questions?????

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Have you tried talking to a fitter, to maybe get you in a driver shaft that will match your swing better, I talked to a titelist fitter, and he thought I would be better served with a heavier shaft, with low torque, based on my swing speed, and move from the top. It may not be your swing at all, considering that you hit your other clubs straight, it doesn't seem that your swing would be the issue. Just something I was thinking about as I read the thread.

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As a fitter, I prefer to use face tape and a marker to determine lie angle. It provides a more realistic and more accurate test compared to a traditional lie board. High speed photography has shown that lie boards can give incorrect data.

 

Also, I am very cautious when it comes to choosing a lie angle based solely upon the ball flight direction. Achieving proper turf interaction almost always produces better, more consistent results in the long term.

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Good question. At my facility, we fit outside on a driving range. I have used several methods, but the most reliable seems to be a combo of lie tape and flight. If I give my guy a club that he is marking on the heel, but the flight is spot on, then we go with it. I could care less if the mark is in the center of the club, if the shots are 30 yards offline. Isn't that the reason we fit??

I love that fact that you fit at an outdoor practice range. Seeing the ball flight is crucial whenever making adjustments to your equipment. I think that this is the most important thing that goes overlooked when club fitting. especially by the box stores. 

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My wrist to floor is 35", so in theory I should add a 1/4". The guy fitting me said that little is kind of pointless and they should just bend my irons up 1 degree. Should I go back and have them add the 1/4" or is it really just a waste or time? 

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Actually the WTF is in relation to height, how tall are you. Also a quarter inch is half a degree, not a full degree. 1/2" equals a full degree

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Actually the WTF is in relation to height, how tall are you. Also a quarter inch is half a degree, not a full degree. 1/2" equals a full degree

 

 I'm about 6'2", WTF was 35", got the lie from hitting balls with face tape and a marker. This was just at the local Edwin Watts store. 

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if we are using the Ping fitting system (They are really the only company that utilizes WTF), then the results are slightly skewed. The RSi2's that you are hitting are slightly more upright that Ping I25 irons (.5°) Using the static measurements, I would only bend your RSi's .5° up, and extend them .5".. 

 

The truth is in the results. If you are missing the sweet spot more on the toe, or thin, I would most certainly extend them. If you are happy with the contact, and your set up and posture, don't mess with them.

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if we are using the Ping fitting system (They are really the only company that utilizes WTF), then the results are slightly skewed. The RSi2's that you are hitting are slightly more upright that Ping I25 irons (.5°) Using the static measurements, I would only bend your RSi's .5° up, and extend them .5".. 

 

The truth is in the results. If you are missing the sweet spot more on the toe, or thin, I would most certainly extend them. If you are happy with the contact, and your set up and posture, don't mess with them.

 

I miss right more often than not with my irons, so I'd just started aiming left half of the green and hitting middle to right half.  I figured my lie had to play a part in that. I'm not sure I have a consistent spot I miss on the face. I think I hit my irons fairly solid, I haven't been thin in awhile. I can think of a few off the toe last round but they must have just been barely off as the shots still ended up pretty good.  The marker and tape showed I was hitting the "line" on the ball at an angle. I'm going to the range tomorrow after work so I guess we'll see how they do. 

 

I appreciate your input, fitting is kind of a fickle beast. I bought the irons from them so they'll do it but they don't seem to want or know how to put much time and effort into it as I'd like. Or maybe it is that easy. Who knows.

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I'm about 6'2", WTF was 35", got the lie from hitting balls with face tape and a marker. This was just at the local Edwin Watts store.

Standard length is correct for 6'2" with a 35" wtf. Id go 1/2 degree up and hit some balls and see what the ball flight looks like while checking lie with the sole tape and checking where you're hitting the ball at in the face with face tape

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Standard length is correct for 6'2" with a 35" wtf. Id go 1/2 degree up and hit some balls and see what the ball flight looks like while checking lie with the sole tape and checking where you're hitting the ball at in the face with face tape

 

Awesome, I'll try that out tomorrow. I'll be annoyed if I have to keep going back to have them change things that they should have figured out in the first place. Seems like everything was rushed, but I guess I can expect that from a "free" (even though I bought nice clubs) fitting. 

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Do yourself a favor in case they don't have face tape available. Take either a whiteboard marker or a sharpie. Instead of typing it all out, from here I'll copy and paste Tom Wishon's words on how to do the test.

 

"The ink line on the back of the ball technique for dynamic lie fitting is simple and logical. A heavy ink line is drawn on the ball with a Sharpie pen. The ball is placed on the ground with the line vertical and facing the clubhead. After impact, a faint image of the ink line is transferred to the clubface. If the line is perfectly vertical on the clubface, the lie of the club is correct for the golfer. If the ink line tilts in an angle up toward the toe side of the face, the lie of the club that was hit is too upright so the correct lie has to be flatter than the lie of the club being hit. Vice versa — if the ink line angles up toward the heel side of the face, the correct lie has to be more upright than the lie of the test club."

 

Do this step AFTER the sole tape has been done (and the club adjusted). This simplifies the fitting and need to keep going back and forth.

 

I prefer to do every club. I also own a loft/lie machine and can do that. Some stores don't or won't do every club (they should but usually don't). Just make sure once adjusting your test club that the clubs are adjusted from the test club (if they do the hit one club fitting). Once you have that first one right, check the spec from the stock specs. Then adjust lie angles based on stock lie angles (meaning the actual specs from the manufacturer not take every club and bend it x amount from where it sits currently). Lots of stores will say 1 degree upright and will bend every club a degree up from where it's at currently instead of saying "the stated lie is 63 degrees and we went 1 degree up so it's now 64 degrees. That means the next club's stated lie that's supposed to be 63.5 should be 64.5 degrees." There are tolerance built in. Make sure they bend them based off of stated specs and not their current position.

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Oh and in case someone needed one or has never seen one, here's a wrist to floor chart (the one I actually use myself except mine is handwritten in my notes).

 

4EA29FA9-EBE4-44E0-B6BD-9680085D55F6_zps

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 Great chart. Quick question though. Do you measure with shoes on or off since you play with shoes on?

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Shoes on

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy mobile app

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Great chart. Quick question though. Do you measure with shoes on or off since you play with shoes on?

Shoes on

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy mobile app

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Can a shaft that is too weak cause high right pushes? 

 

Update:   I found some awesome info about shafts to ponder on:

https://www.mygolfspy.com/mygolfspy-labs-wrong-shaft-flex/

 

Sure it can. To be honest, ANY shaft that is INCORRECT in terms of length, weight, flex, bend point, etc will cause any sort of erratic or bad shot in any direction. Combine this with ill fitting equipment in terms of loft, lie and weight distribution and you have a potential recipe for disaster.

That is why the only real way to tell if you have the correct shaft and/or equipment is to get fitted. 

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Sure it can. To be honest, ANY shaft that is INCORRECT in terms of length, weight, flex, bend point, etc will cause any sort of erratic or bad shot in any direction. Combine this with ill fitting equipment in terms of loft, lie and weight distribution and you have a potential recipe for disaster.

That is why the only real way to tell if you have the correct shaft and/or equipment is to get fitted. 

 

Man we are so fortunate to have you on our forum!   I always enjoy your comments and appreciate it when you share wisdom.

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Do yourself a favor in case they don't have face tape available. Take either a whiteboard marker or a sharpie. Instead of typing it all out, from here I'll copy and paste Tom Wishon's words on how to do the test.

 

"The ink line on the back of the ball technique for dynamic lie fitting is simple and logical. A heavy ink line is drawn on the ball with a Sharpie pen. The ball is placed on the ground with the line vertical and facing the clubhead. After impact, a faint image of the ink line is transferred to the clubface. If the line is perfectly vertical on the clubface, the lie of the club is correct for the golfer. If the ink line tilts in an angle up toward the toe side of the face, the lie of the club that was hit is too upright so the correct lie has to be flatter than the lie of the club being hit. Vice versa — if the ink line angles up toward the heel side of the face, the correct lie has to be more upright than the lie of the test club."

 

Do this step AFTER the sole tape has been done (and the club adjusted). This simplifies the fitting and need to keep going back and forth.

 

I prefer to do every club. I also own a loft/lie machine and can do that. Some stores don't or won't do every club (they should but usually don't). Just make sure once adjusting your test club that the clubs are adjusted from the test club (if they do the hit one club fitting). Once you have that first one right, check the spec from the stock specs. Then adjust lie angles based on stock lie angles (meaning the actual specs from the manufacturer not take every club and bend it x amount from where it sits currently). Lots of stores will say 1 degree upright and will bend every club a degree up from where it's at currently instead of saying "the stated lie is 63 degrees and we went 1 degree up so it's now 64 degrees. That means the next club's stated lie that's supposed to be 63.5 should be 64.5 degrees." There are tolerance built in. Make sure they bend them based off of stated specs and not their current position.

 

2 questions:

 

1. will the same strategy work if I use foot spray on the club?  A lot of people recommend using athletes foot spray on the club face if you don't have impact tape and that you'll be able to clearly see where the ball impacts the face.

 

2. if you're at the range and marking up their balls with a pen won't they get a little perturbed ?

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#1 yes it'll work. #2 I would doubt it. If like some courses range is near a hole/fairway & they collect stray balls which gets used for range balls.

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