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Fitting Questions?????


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Can a shaft that is too weak cause high right pushes?

 

Update: I found some awesome info about shafts to ponder on:

https://www.mygolfspy.com/mygolfspy-labs-wrong-shaft-flex/

Club fitter told me I needed regular flex shafts based on my swing speed. When I used regular flex shafts everything went low and right. With stiff shafts, I'm dead straight.

 

 

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Club fitter told me I needed regular flex shafts based on my swing speed. When I used regular flex shafts everything went low and right. With stiff shafts, I'm dead straight.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Thanks for the input!  I ordered an adapter to try a stiffer shaft so yea,,,   I'll be cooking with Crisco soon.

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Callaway  Epic Flash 10.5 Driver
Callaway MAVRIK  3 hybrid 18 Degree
Callaway Big Bertha 2019  4 hybrid 
Callaway  Max 5 - PW Irons
Cleveland CBX 2 50 & 54 Degree Wedge
Cleveland CBX Full-Face Wedge 58 degree
Odyssey
White Hot OG 7 S

 

 



 

 

 

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I'm pretty big on fitting. Especially irons. But is a driver fitting all it's cracked up to be? Especially nowadays with all the adjustability they have. (yes... I do think it can help) I've tried twice to get a fitting for a driver and both were a bust or at best a non-starter. I currently play a 2014 SLDR I received here on MGS as a tester-reviewer. It's off the shelf. The only thing I selected was a letter designation for shaft stiffness. I selected an S shaft. I recall I was luke warm on the club during my review but generally thought I had a decent club. A year thereafter I tried to purchase a custom fit and built Wishon driver. For whatever reason it was a complete bust and I returned it. Last year I attempted another driver... the Cobra Fly-z and Fly-z+. I couldn't get a good fit I felt at the time so I stuck with my SLDR.

Back to 2014 again... during that summer after I'd gotten the SLDR I went to see a pro-fitter and we worked on a LM with the driver and made a few minor tweaks but still kept the original shaft. Since then the SLDR has turned out to be the best most reliable and accurate driver I've ever owned.

 

This leads me to today. Or... this past Friday. A friend of mine bought a brand new Ping 10.5* G30. He had walked into a shop, looked over some drivers and walked out with the G30. No fitting. When we played he was wearing that thing out. Granted, he's a decent player with about a 5-6 hcp. Not bad. I noticed how he was flighting the ball well while retaining his normal shot shape. He said he'd gained some distance too. Good for him. The only thing I didn't like was the sound of the club. It sounded like he was hitting a tennis ball with each shot.

 

So... did he get lucky with his Ping? Did I get lucky with my SLDR? For me I do think I got lucky. Especially regarding the shaft. Is driver fitting over rated? I'm inclined to say it is.... a little bit. I'd still at least want to try a few different head and shaft combos (outdoors) for my next driver but I'm not all that sure a full Club Champion style fitting is necessary for me. What about you?

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My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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I tend to agree - I've been thru an on-course fitting and loved it. I also took away enough info to know what works for me.

 

Irons - I know my length/lie numbers, prefer the DG S300 shaft, and always play a MB head. Some heads feel better than others, and that's all I need to know.

 

Putter - same deal - I know my basic specs, and it all comes down to feel.

 

Driver - mine came from trial and error, but started with basic specs that I work well with. Also a feel judgement at the end of the day.

 

I'm just not a numbers guy - and maybe I'm missing something by not checking out everything the world currently has to offer.

 

But... put me on a LM and find a shaft that gets 4 yards more on average but it feels weird to me, you can keep your 4 yard shaft...

 

 

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The thing-difference between iron fitting and driver fitting is the bending and weighting of the heads to name two. I don't have the proper equipment to bend and adjust my irons. Never will. But with a driver I can adjust and weight them myself. Provided I can test several shafts and do all my adjusting, etc. outdoors to validate; I'm good to go I think. My eyes will pretty much tell me all I need to know. When I'm getting the same or better distance, same shot shape and height I think I'm fit. But the key is to do all this outdoors.

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My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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I'm pretty big on fitting. Especially irons. But is a driver fitting all it's cracked up to be? Especially nowadays with all the adjustability they have. (yes... I do think it can help) I've tried twice to get a fitting for a driver and both were a bust or at best a non-starter. I currently play a 2014 SLDR I received here on MGS as a tester-reviewer. It's off the shelf. The only thing I selected was a letter designation for shaft stiffness. I selected an S shaft. I recall I was luke warm on the club during my review but generally thought I had a decent club. A year thereafter I tried to purchase a custom fit and built Wishon driver. For whatever reason it was a complete bust and I returned it. Last year I attempted another driver... the Cobra Fly-z and Fly-z+. I couldn't get a good fit I felt at the time so I stuck with my SLDR.

Back to 2014 again... during that summer after I'd gotten the SLDR I went to see a pro-fitter and we worked on a LM with the driver and made a few minor tweaks but still kept the original shaft. Since then the SLDR has turned out to be the best most reliable and accurate driver I've ever owned.

 

This leads me to today. Or... this past Friday. A friend of mine bought a brand new Ping 10.5* G30. He had walked into a shop, looked over some drivers and walked out with the G30. No fitting. When we played he was wearing that thing out. Granted, he's a decent player with about a 5-6 hcp. Not bad. I noticed how he was flighting the ball well while retaining his normal shot shape. He said he'd gained some distance too. Good for him. The only thing I didn't like was the sound of the club. It sounded like he was hitting a tennis ball with each shot.

 

So... did he get lucky with his Ping? Did I get lucky with my SLDR? For me I do think I got lucky. Especially regarding the shaft. Is driver fitting over rated? I'm inclined to say it is.... a little bit. I'd still at least want to try a few different head and shaft combos (outdoors) for my next driver but I'm not all that sure a full Club Champion style fitting is necessary for me. What about you?

 

 

Changing shafts on my G30 made all the difference in world.  The G30 is a great head and  although the sound is a bit different if it helps you play better, screw the sound.

 

After my results with the shaft swap out and it working so well, I can see myself becoming a serious shaft HO... :D 

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Callaway  Epic Flash 10.5 Driver
Callaway MAVRIK  3 hybrid 18 Degree
Callaway Big Bertha 2019  4 hybrid 
Callaway  Max 5 - PW Irons
Cleveland CBX 2 50 & 54 Degree Wedge
Cleveland CBX Full-Face Wedge 58 degree
Odyssey
White Hot OG 7 S

 

 



 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Going to pick up my clubs I had fit for me on Friday.

 

Any suggestions or tips on what I should be looking out for to make sure they were constructed properly?

I got something to say then I'm gonna say it. 

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Going to pick up my clubs I had fit for me on Friday.

 

Any suggestions or tips on what I should be looking out for to make sure they were constructed properly?

Hit each one... make sure the heads don't come off.   :D   And enjoy them!!

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We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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Hit each one... make sure the heads don't come off.   :D   And enjoy them!!

 

Well... that sounds pretty simple!  I did tell them I'd like to hit each club.  

They are all "MOI" matched instead of matched by swingweight.

 

Too much detail to go into here but suffice to say that every club is supposed to feel exactly the same when you swing it ... and if you were to close your eyes you wouldn't know which club you're swinging.

 

in case you're interested.... http://www.spargogolf.com/pages/frequency-m-o-i-matching-clubs

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I got something to say then I'm gonna say it. 

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Let us know the results and if you see diferences

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Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15* set  to 16.5* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 816H1 19* set at 18* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  21*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
               :titelist-small: 915H 24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :callaway-small: 54-10S   :cleveland-small: 588  58-12
Putter:  :seemore-small: mFGP2

Backups:  :bobby-grace-1: 6330, :taylormade-small:TM-180, :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, Bellum Winmore 787

 

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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All I can add is....

When I got my fitted irons back in August 2014 I was also given nice printout of all the specs for each club individually. It was fairly detailed too.

Nice touch. I also recall my heads were each hand selected to spec and signed by Tom Wishon personally. The "hand-Select" was an option that I chose.

Not sure if your fitter offers this.

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My Sun Mountain bag currently includes:   TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 771CSI 5i - PW and TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges

                                                                               :755178188_TourEdge: EXS 10.5*, TWGTLogo2.png.06c802075f4d211691d88895b3f34b75.png 929-HS FW4 16.5* 

                                                                                :edel-golf-1: Willimette w/GolfPride Contour

 

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All I can add is....

When I got my fitted irons back in August 2014 I was also given nice printout of all the specs for each club individually. It was fairly detailed too.

Nice touch. I also recall my heads were each hand selected to spec and signed by Tom Wishon personally. The "hand-Select" was an option that I chose.

Not sure if your fitter offers this.

 

Thanks for the tip!  I'll ask about it.

I got something to say then I'm gonna say it. 

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  • 1 month later...

I have been reading the blog by our very own Tony Covey about "Center of Gravity and how it affects drivers. Here are a few lines that I found interesting from the blog that I will share here:

 

 

For golfers who consistently hit the ball high on the face, a higher CG driver may produce better results, while golfers who habitually strike the ball low on the face will likely benefit from lower CG clubs
 
Closure Rate or Dynamic Closure Rate is the rate at which the clubhead closes during the downswing. The more forward the CG the slower the closure rate. Clubs with slower closure rates are generally described as being more workable. Back CG designs with faster closure rates are more forgiving, and can help to mitigate a slice.
 
On a comparative basis:
Drivers with forward CG locations often feel heavier than those with rear CG placements
A forward CG location will cause the shaft to feel stiffer.
Because of the effect on closure rate, forward CG drivers may be harder to square, and some golfers will find it difficult to control the club during swing
 
One rule of thumb (and there's not universal agreement here) is that an ascending AoA is generally suited for mid-cg, descending fast – forward, descending slow – back.
 
Where you impact the ball on the face matters. If you're a consistent high face guy, regardless of AoA, higher CG may work better, where low CG generally works best with low face impact. This is true of toe and heel side as well. The best results come when the CG and impact point are aligned.
 
 
Ok  so now maybe I can be advised if a guy with a swing speed in the  88 - 92 ish  range, who hits the ball high on the face could possibly benefit from a driver with the center of gravity more forward?  This is interesting stuff however  I'm not one of those techy type folks who grasps these concepts right away.

Callaway  Epic Flash 10.5 Driver
Callaway MAVRIK  3 hybrid 18 Degree
Callaway Big Bertha 2019  4 hybrid 
Callaway  Max 5 - PW Irons
Cleveland CBX 2 50 & 54 Degree Wedge
Cleveland CBX Full-Face Wedge 58 degree
Odyssey
White Hot OG 7 S

 

 



 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi MmmmmmBuddy, my fitting question today is:

 

Can you pull a graphite shaft and then re-use it in a new head?

(Or does the graphite tip get weakened)

 

Thanks!!

WITB of an "aspiring"  😉 play-ah ...
..Callaway Epic Speed 4W and Epic Max 7W (both Project X Cypher)
..Callaway Big Bertha 4H and 5H (both Recoil ZTR)
..PXG 0211 6i-GW (Mitsubishi MMT) 
..Cleveland CBX-2 54 and CBX 60 (both Rotex graphite)
...Edel EAS 4.0 (stock shaft, zero offset hosel, round grip)
..all in a Datrek bag on an MGI Zip Navigator electric cart.

Forum Member tester for the ExPutt Putting Simulator (2020)

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Hi MmmmmmBuddy, my fitting question today is:

 

Can you pull a graphite shaft and then re-use it in a new head?

(Or does the graphite tip get weakened)

 

Thanks!!

It's fine to use if it is done right.  Bad if it's twisted.

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We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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  • 2 weeks later...

So don't twist the shaft when pulling? And is there a way to tell if one has been twisted (I buy used stuff alot)?

WITB: 

Adams 9064LS 9.5* (until I cracked the face)

Adams Super LS 17*

Adams XTD Ti 23*

Wilson Staff Ci7 4-PW

Adams wedges: 52/7 56/13 60/7

Wilson Staff Infinite Southside putter/Odyssey DualForce 660 putter

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  • 3 weeks later...

2 questions:

 

1. will the same strategy work if I use foot spray on the club? A lot of people recommend using athletes foot spray on the club face if you don't have impact tape and that you'll be able to clearly see where the ball impacts the face.

 

2. if you're at the range and marking up their balls with a pen won't they get a little perturbed ?

Sorry haven't been here in a while. Forgot about this post.

 

The purpose of the sharpie and line is not to see where impact is like with foot spray. The purpose of the line is to determine dynamic lie at impact in relation to the ball. Lie tape on the sole will lie to you off of a lie board. The line left on the face of the iron should be perfectly vertical when you hit the ball. If it's tilted toward the heel or the toe, that's letting you know if the clubs are too upright or too flat at impact (where it matters). The line is vertical on the ball, if the line on the face is also vertical, that means your impact is correct and the lie is correct because the club comes in perfectly on plane from heel to toe.

 

2. I've never had a range say anything. They're range balls. The marker comes right off anyway

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In The Bag
Driver: TaylorMade M2 (2017) w/ Project X T1100 HZRDUS Handcrafted 65x 
Strong 3 wood: Taylormade M1 15* w/ ProjectX T1100 HZRDUS handcrafted 75x
3 Hybrid: Adams PRO 18* w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4 Hybrid: Adams PRO 20* (bent to 21*) w/ KBS Tour Hybrid S flex tipped 1/2"
4-AW: TaylorMade P770 w/ Dynamic Gold Tour Issue Black Onyx S400

SW: 56* Scratch Tour Dept(CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
LW: 60* Scratch Tour Department (CC grooves) w/ Dynamic Gold Spinner
XW: 64* Cally XForged Vintage w/ DG X100 8 iron tiger stepped
Putter: Nike Method Prototype 006 at 34"

Have a ton of back-ups in all categories, but there are always 14 clubs in the bag that differ depending on the course and set-up. Bomb and gouge. Yes, I'm a club gigolo.

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  • 3 months later...

I'm a bit confused, got fitted by a local oem rep recently, they suggest I use Nippon modus 120 in x flex. I've always used dg s400 and more recently as I turn 40 have switched to kbs tour in stiff. My swing speed is a little over 90 with kbs a 7 iron and flying about 170 yards, with 7,100-7,200 rev spin, dec angle 49-50 and 105-110 ft max height. With the modus x, my swing speed is about the same maybe 91 instead of 90, flying 170 yards, 6,700-6,800 rev, dec angle 46-47 and 90-96 feet of height. Which would you fit me for and is the modus really a half flex softer than kbs tour? Thanks ahead of time, Peter.

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