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Playing the hole backwards...


azstu324

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I'm definitely going to be investing in some sort of data management program here shortly. The comments regarding tracking strokes gained/lost definitely ring true and figuring out exactly where I'm losing those strokes will be imperative. 

Currently I'm seeing my overall game like this (very generalized): Realistically, my average score over 15 rounds is 80. This can be a mix of playing from the tips or one up.. as previously mentioned, my playing dynamics will vary depending on who I'm playing with. I realize that all of the individual course difficulty/hdcp. stats can play into this but I'm just trying to paint a broad picture. On average, par for the various courses included is 72 (again very generalized). What this means is that I'm playing to roughly a 90% efficiency which includes both Execution and management. 

I realize that 90% sounds quite high but if we all consider 72 a perfect score, which in the overall picture of the game of golf and various skill levels the world over, it is. Not necessarily 72 but "Par". Quantifying the perfect score in a percentage of 100%, an average score of 80 (72/80) is 90% efficiency right? I realize it should be much more complex than that but I'm starting with this as to not overly complicate things. So ultimately I'm seeking to close that 10% window and you all are giving me some excellent ways to get there. 

Additionally I see this like weight loss, fitness, or any other goals that require effort to achieve. It's the last bit that will always be the most difficult and require a substantial amount of focus and discipline. Almost more-so than the previous 90%. 

   PXG 0311 Gen 5 9°/ Fujikura MotoreX F1 6X
:cobra-small:  F6 3 Wood 14* / Kuro Kage Silver 65X
:cobra-small: F8 6 wood 20* / Fujikura MotoreX F3 6S

:cobra-small: RADSpeed Hybrid 24*
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg TS1 4-GW / FCM Precision 6.5 Rifle
post-76102-0-38507100-1525284411_thumb.jpg  TSW Wedge - 56/12
:edel-golf-1:  EAS 1.0 / Grip master 2.0 

MAXFLI  Tour CG

 

 

 

 

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@Azstu - I was stunned by what l learned from the data - some things that i thought I was good at I wasn’t. This led to a different bag configuration and practice routine.

My consistency has improved immensely since making those changes.

Good luck!


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Taylor Made Stealth 2 10.5 Diamana S plus 60  Aldila  R flex   - 42.25 inches 

SMT 4 wood bassara R flex, four wood head, 3 wood shaft

Ping G410 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Srixon ZX5 MK II  5-GW - UST recoil Dart 65 R flex

India 52,56 (60 pending)  UST recoil 75's R flex  

Evon roll ER 5 32 inches

It's our offseason so auditioning candidates - looking for that right mix of low spin long, more spin around the greens - TBD   

 

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... I'll keep this simple. Your tee shot sets up the hole. The farther and straighter you can hit it the better. The driver is the most forgiving tee off club in the bag, so it makes sense to use it as often as you can.  I had a short 353 yd par 4 yesterday and a 2 iron off the tee gave me plenty of yardage to the widest part of the fairway and took water out of play. Without that water, I would have hit driver risking missing the narrowing fairway because a wedge is always better than an 8 iron.  

... Obviously water, bunkers and doglegs or fairways that run out can make driver the wrong choice, and there are those that struggle with their driver hitting slices and or hooks, so fairway wood, hybrid or even a long iron can be the better choice. Every under par round I have played was the result of hitting it straight and far off the tee. The mediocre rounds come from good and poor tee shots and all my high rounds come from hitting it poorly off the tee. I think the difference between low index and high index is just recovery from bad shots, especially bad tee shots. Hitting into the trees and punching out to 40 yds and getting up and down for par is the staple of  low index players. They hit many more bad shots than a high index player might think, they just recover. Higher index players make bad choices and then hit more bad shots compounding their tee error. Get it back in play as close to the green as is prudent. 

... But my advice to all golfers, even higher index players, is learn to hit partial shots. It is the backbone to scoring because the best laid plans can change with every tee shot. Hit it into the trees and have to punch out? Statistically you will score better punching it as far as possible with no danger involved. Not only will you score better with a 1/2 LW from 40 yds than you will with a full 110 yd shot, the chances of you hitting your "prefect" yardage punching out thru trees is pretty slim. 

... So don't over think it. Play the tee shot that gives you the shortest shot to the green as long as it is also a safe enough play. 

Driver:     :taylormade-small:    Qi10 10.5* ... Ventus Red Velocore 5R
Fairway:  :taylormade-small:    Qi10 5 wood ... Kai'li Blue 60R
Hybrids:  :ping-small:        430 Hybrid 22*... Diamana LTD 65r  
                  :taylormade-small:    DHy #4 ... Steelfiber 780Hy  
Irons:       :titleist-small:           '23 T200 5-Pw ... Steelfiber i95r
Wedges:  :titleist-small:           Vokey 50*/54*/58* ... Steelfiber i95r
Putter:     :cobra-small:    Sport-60 33" 
Ball:           Maxfli/:taylormade-small:  Maxfli Tour/TP5x

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3 hours ago, chisag said:

... I'll keep this simple. Your tee shot sets up the hole. The farther and straighter you can hit it the better. The driver is the most forgiving tee off club in the bag, so it makes sense to use it as often as you can.  I had a short 353 yd par 4 yesterday and a 2 iron off the tee gave me plenty of yardage to the widest part of the fairway and took water out of play. Without that water, I would have hit driver risking missing the narrowing fairway because a wedge is always better than an 8 iron.  

... Obviously water, bunkers and doglegs or fairways that run out can make driver the wrong choice, and there are those that struggle with their driver hitting slices and or hooks, so fairway wood, hybrid or even a long iron can be the better choice. Every under par round I have played was the result of hitting it straight and far off the tee. The mediocre rounds come from good and poor tee shots and all my high rounds come from hitting it poorly off the tee. I think the difference between low index and high index is just recovery from bad shots, especially bad tee shots. Hitting into the trees and punching out to 40 yds and getting up and down for par is the staple of  low index players. They hit many more bad shots than a high index player might think, they just recover. Higher index players make bad choices and then hit more bad shots compounding their tee error. Get it back in play as close to the green as is prudent. 

... But my advice to all golfers, even higher index players, is learn to hit partial shots. It is the backbone to scoring because the best laid plans can change with every tee shot. Hit it into the trees and have to punch out? Statistically you will score better punching it as far as possible with no danger involved. Not only will you score better with a 1/2 LW from 40 yds than you will with a full 110 yd shot, the chances of you hitting your "prefect" yardage punching out thru trees is pretty slim. 

... So don't over think it. Play the tee shot that gives you the shortest shot to the green as long as it is also a safe enough play. 

 

This really is the perfect answer to the OP's question!  

Bomb & Gauge It I Say!!  

WITB:  Do I like Titleist or what? 

 

Driver:     :titleist-small: TSR3 9* UST Mamiya Proto LIN-Q Blue 

Fairways   :titleist-small: TSi2 UST Mamiya LIN-Q Blue 13.5* 

Driving Iron:   :titleist-small: U500 17* :Fuji:  Blue Ventus HB Velocore 

Irons   :titleist-small: T350 4 & 5, T200 6 - PW UST Mamiya Recoil Dart F4 105g

Wedges    :vokey-small: SM9 48*, SM9 52*, SM8 56* Modus Tour Wedge 

Putter    :cameron-small: Newport 2 w/ Garsen Ultimate grip 

Ball    :titleist-small:  *ProV1 Left Dot

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