Popular Post JudgeSmails Posted October 19, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted October 19, 2019 Building my Indoor Putting Green It’s getting colder in Indiana, and I really wanted a way to practice my putting this offseason. I have REALLY struggled this year, primarily on those 4-6 foot putts I SHOULD be making. It’s caused tons of 3 putts and par saves that could have been. Frustrating part is the rest of my game has been pretty solid, so I wanted to do something about it. But enough about my game, you’re here for my step by step instructions on the build. I know these get talked about a lot, and everyone always wants to know how to do it themselves. Well here you GO! If you have some pretty basic tools lying around and are at least a little handy, you can do this no sweat. Let’s get started with the instructions and I’ll summarize my time and costs at the end. I’m also going to provide links to the exact items I purchased to build this green. First, let’s talk about my finished product. It is an 8’ x 4’ raised green.. It has real, regulation sized holes/cups on each end (so you get that satisfying drop and sound, not just a little ½” step down). The surface is a remnant from Big Moss Golf. I can also add some break to the putts by adjusting the levelers (we will get to that). Everything besides the putting surface itself, can be purchased from Amazon and Lowes (or Home Depot, Menards, etc…) Materials: 8’x4’ ½” Particle Board Underlayment Qty 6 8’ 2x4’s Hole Cups Heavy Duty Furniture Levelers Putting Surface/Carpet Wood/Decking Screws 2.5” and 1” Light Duty Spray Adhesive Tools: Drill Drill Bits Miter Saw (something to cut the 2x4’s) Hole Saw 4 ⅛” Rubber Mallet Sand Paper STEP 1: Build the Frame The nice thing about the dimensions I chose, is that it really limits the amount of cutting you have to do (that was on purpose). You will lay out 2 of the 8’ 2x4’s and these will be the long sides (no cutting needed). Then, you are going to cut 5 45” sections out of the remaining 2x4’s. One thing to remember if you haven’t done much wood working, what they CALL a board is often different than what the actual measurements are. A 2x4 is kind of a generic term. They are actually more like 1.5”x3.5”. So if you do the math, that’s how you come up with the cross beems being cut to 45”, which will give you a total width of 48” or 4ft. Please note, please do you own measurements on this first, and if you are not sure, leave them a touch (⅛”) long, you can always cut more off. It really doesn’t need to be PRECISELY 48” wide, if you are off by ⅛” or whatever, it won’t really matter. It is important, that all your cross beams be the exact same length though. Mine came out really close, are the corners all 100% perfectly square, no, but as long as you are close, it’s not that big of a deal. Once you have them all cut, lay all the 2x4’s out on a nice flat surface how they will go. Start by connecting both ends. I used 2.5” wood/deck screws, 2 in each end (drill small pilot holes to make the screws go in easier). It is important that the top surface be completely flush with each other. You can sit something thin under one or the other, to level them up while you are screwing them together. The bottom side does not need to be flush to each other, but make sure the top side is. After you get the ends done, move to the middle and repeat that process, one exactly in the middle, then split each end in the middle again. Once that was done, I sat the particle board on top and walked on it, I noticed a few spots were a little ‘bouncy’, so I decided to put some more braces running through the middle. I can’t tell you the lengths on these, just measure each one and cut them individually. Attach the same way, 2 screws on each end. You should stagger them like my picture, so that you can get the screws in the end. Since I’m a right handed golfer, I staggered them to the side I would be standing on. Make sure none of the cross beams will interfere with where the holes will be. Again, make sure the top side is completely flush, the bottom side doesn’t really matter. Step2: Attach the Particle Board Underlayment This part is pretty simple. Just lay the 8x4 Underlayment on top of your frame. Shift it around til it as square with the frame as you can get it, and attach with some 1” wood screws. I went around the outside and threw 1 in the middle. This holds it in place just fine. Make sure you countersink the screws below the surface, so you don’t have any bumps on the putting surface. Step3: Cut the Holes This and installing the cups are probably the trickiest part of the build. You will need to buy a 4 ⅛” hole saw, it’s kind of pricey and this is probably the only time you’ll ever use it, but it’s necessary. Lay the putting carpet out on the underlayment (make sure it is completely flat, with no bumps). Get it positioned exactly how you want it. Since the holes were pre-cut in my putting surface, this helped quite a bit. Once you have it laid out, you can take the hole saw, carefully set in the hole, and just give it a couple quick turns to get the arbor hole started and some scoring of the actual hole. Now remove the carpet so you don’t damage it and cut the holes. This hole saw cut through the underlayment pretty quickly and it was nice and clean. Lay the carpet back on the surface and make sure the holes line up nicely. The holes are slightly smaller than the cups we are putting in, I will explain that in step 4. Step4: Install the Cups I was trying to think of the best way to secure the cups, without having to drill holes in them. So I decided to attach them just using pressure. This is why we cut a hole that is slightly smaller than the cups we are installing. This part is a little tedious, you are going to sand the inside of the holes, just to the point that the cups will just start to allow you to force them in the holes you cut. You are going to kind of do this by feel, and it will take some time. It’s very important to not remove too much, otherwise the cups will not stay in place and just fall through. You can use a power sander of some sort if you like, but be careful not to sand too much away. I used a coarse piece of sandpaper and did it by hand. Going around the hole with good old man-power. Check frequently to see how you’re doing, as soon as the cup can start being pushed in a little bit with some force, stop sanding. Now take a piece of scrap 2/4, place it on top of the cup, and start tapping it down with a rubber mallet. Tap until flush w/ the hole you cut (the video below should help visualize this process) Step5: Install the Furniture Levelers Why furniture levelers? 2 reasons. The porch I am putting my green on, is not perfectly level, so when I had a putting mat before, I could never have a perfectly straight putt. This allows me to make the surface exactly level, side to side and back to front. ALSO, these levelers are easily adjustable with an allen wrench, so I can add break to my practice putting anytime I want. These are very easy to install. I placed the 4 levelers, about 10” from each end, on the sides. They have a lip underneath, just put them in place and shoot the 4 provided screws in. Easy Peasy. (If you make your green longer than 8ft, you might want to get 2 sets of these, so you can put another 2 in the middle, it may start to bow when you stand on it if you don’t...at my length of 8ft, it did not). Once installed, you can lay a level on top and adjust the feet, til the surface is nice and level. Step6: Install a lip Not necessary, but you’ll probably want a lip, at least behind the holes, so the balls don’t roll off. This you can kind of use your imagination, a piece of molding, small thin piece of wood, I used something I already had laying around. It’s a piece of pvc that is used for window molding. As you can see, it has a lip on each end, so I cut it in ½ and tapped the lip in between the frame and underlayment. You don’t have to do it that way, you can just tack a strip of whatever you like to the edge w/ some small nails. No wrong way to do this, as long as it’s not interfering with the holes. Step7: Install the putting surface This should be pretty easy, you already did it once before cutting the holes. Clean the underlayment off good before doing it, get all the dust and dirt off. Then lay the carpet down, get it good and lined up with the holes and edges. You may have some little bumps from the carpet being rolled up, I recommend letting it sit a couple days to completely flatten out (you can put some weight on it too, start in the middle and move outwards, leave whatever you are using on for a couple hours). Once you have it laying perfectly flat, you can apply some spray adhesive. I used something that is pretty light duty, in case I ever need to take the carpet up and reposition it, I could. The carpet will actually stay in place by itself, it has a rubber backing and doesn’t shift when you walk on it, even without adhesive. But you will want to be able to vacuum it from time to time and you don’t want the vacuum to pull it up. Starting at one end, fold the carpet over in half. Spray a light coat of the adhesive on the underlayment, and then lay the carpet back down. Then repeat the process on the other end. Then I just patted around the edges and holes with my hands. I let it dry about 30 min, then ran the vacuum over the surface and it stayed in place perfectly. CONGRATULATIONS!! YOUR INDOOR PUTTING GREEN IS COMPLETE!!!! Total Build Time: about 3 hours or so, I did it in the evenings over a couple nights, didn’t keep the exact time. Total Cost: (I already owned all the tools needed except the hole saw and had screws on hand as well) A Couple of Notes Build it where you want to use it if you can. It will be heavy and awkward to move You can adjust this build to whatever size you want to make it. The only tricky part may be making sure the underlayment is perfectly flush if you have to use more than 1 piece. My build was pretty easy, because I just made it the size you buy the piece in. So it’s one, solid, continuous piece of wood This is not a commercial for Big Moss, you can use whatever putting surface you want. But I do recommend them highly. Simply go on their contact page and submit a question about buying a remnant. You will most likely be contacted back that day, by the owner Tony. He is a great dude and great to work with. Prices are going to vary from what I bought depending on what he has on hand and what you want Have them cut the holes for you in the putting carpet. This will save you a lot of trouble and it will no doubt be cleaner than you or I can do it. He did it for a VERY small fee. Well worth it and you can tell him exactly where you want the holes. I bought a tarp to cover mine while i’m not using it. The last putting carpet I had, my cats used as a wrestling mat and a place to puke up hairballs With these dimensions, I can comfortably practice up to a 6ft putt and add break to it if I want. If I think of anything else, I will add to this thread. I am more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Happy Putting! Links to the products I used Hole Saw - Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-4-1-8-in-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Hole-Saw/1000680193 Furniture Levelers - Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4BUE1P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cups - Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WHDGBN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2x4’s Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/2-x-4-x-8-ft-Whitewood-Stud-Common-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Actual/1000074211 Underlayment- Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/1-2X48X96-PARTICLEBOARD-UNDERLAYMENT/3010167 Big Moss https://www.bigmoss.com/crm.asp?action=contactus Adhesive - Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-General-Performance-Spray-Adhesive-13-5-fl-oz-Bonding-Clear-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1000403657 BLW15, yungkory, McGolf and 21 others 21 3 Quote Driver: TR20 10.5* Hybrids: Epic SuperHybrid 3 18* Epic 4h 23* Irons: JPX900 Hot Metal 5-GW Wedges: CBX2 52* 56* 60* Putter: EV8 Ball: Tour BXS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlH Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Very nice! JudgeSmails 1 Quote Driver: Rogue ST Max (10.5* set at -1 and neutral) -- Mitsubishi Tensai Blue 55g R shaft Fairway: Rogue ST Max 3 wood (16.5*) and Heaven Wood (20*)-- Tensai Blue 55g R shaft Hybrids: Rogue ST Max 5H (23*)--Tensai Blue 55g R shaft Irons: Apex CF19 6-9, PW, AW -- KBS Tour Graphite TGI 70 shafts R +1/2 inch 3* upright Wedges: Edison 53* and 57* KBS PGI 80 Graphite +1/2 inch 2* upright Putter: L.A.B. DF 2.1 -- BGT Stability shaft Ball: Maxfli TourX...Golf Bag: Pioneer...Shoes: Hyperflex... Glove: Red Rooster Feather My Photography can be seen at Smugmug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaidJacket Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 I got to hand it to you. That's a really nice job and awesome - detailed - photographed thread you published. I don't think I've seen anything like in all my time here. Congratulations on your new green! JudgeSmails 1 Quote My Sun Mountain bag currently includes: 771CSI 5i - PW and PFC Micro Tour-c 52°, 56°, 60 wedges EXS 10.5*, 929-HS FW4 16.5* Willimette w/GolfPride Contour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JudgeSmails Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 1 hour ago, PlaidJacket said: I got to hand it to you. That's a really nice job and awesome - detailed - photographed thread you published. I don't think I've seen anything like in all my time here. Congratulations on your new green! thank you sir! Quote Driver: TR20 10.5* Hybrids: Epic SuperHybrid 3 18* Epic 4h 23* Irons: JPX900 Hot Metal 5-GW Wedges: CBX2 52* 56* 60* Putter: EV8 Ball: Tour BXS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattF Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Nice build and great instructions! JudgeSmails 1 Quote In the bag: Driver: TSR2 Project X HZRDUS Black 5.5 Fairway: Apex UW 19° & 21° Project X HZRDUS Smoke RDX Black 5.5 Irons: JPX 923 HMP 5-PW UST Mamiya Recoil 95 F4 Wedges: T-22 Denim Copper 48°, 52° & 56° UST Mamiya Recoil 95 F4 Putter Sycamore 005 Wide Blade Bag: Alpha Convoy 514 Balls: Chrome Soft X Cart: CaddyLite ONE Ver. 8 God Bless America, God save the King, God defend New Zealand and thank Christ for Australia! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Jarrett Posted April 17, 2020 Share Posted April 17, 2020 I really like this. I have the perfect spot for it, too! I suspect there will be a fall/winter project for me in my future. JudgeSmails and STUDque 2 Quote TaylorMade R15 460cc w/ Fujikura Speeder 661 Evolution Tour Spec R TaylorMade R11 5 Wood w/ Fujikura Motore Speeder VC 6.0 S Mizuno JPX 850 Forged 4-GW w/ True Temper XP 105 S300 Titleist Vokey SM5 54* F Grind Titleist Vokey SM5 58* M Grind SeeMore Original FGP w/ SuperStroke 1.0 Flatso Tennessee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhammer Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 Well done!! JudgeSmails 1 Quote Driver: Speed Zone 9* HZRDUS Smoke Yellow Shaft 3 Wood: King Speedzone 13.5* HZRDUS Smoke Black Shaft 2 & 3 Hybrids: Speedzone Recoil 480 ESX Shaft Irons: Speedzone 5-GW Recoil 460 ESX Shafts Wedges: PM Grind 54* & 58* Putter: Dual Force Rossi II Ball: Whatever I find in the woods HCP:18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guests Guest Delete Posted April 19, 2020 Guests Share Posted April 19, 2020 (edited) Delete Edited June 29, 2020 by Delete Delete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLW15 Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Well done! How has it held up under use? Did getting rid of those "bouncy" spots make the whole surface remain solid when walking/standing on it? JudgeSmails 1 Quote *Equipment Free Agent* Rogue 10.5° - Aldila Synergy 50 Stiff Rogue 17° 4 wood - Aldila Synergy 60 Stiff G25 20° Hybrid - TFC 189 R-Flex JPX 900 Hot Metal 5-PW - KBS Tour C-Taper Lite Steel RTX-4 50°, 54°, 58° - 9° Bounce - Dynamic Gold S400 TP Z Milled 56° SW - 12° Bounce - KBS Wedge Flex TP Black Copper Collection Ardmore 3 - Super Stroke Pistol GT Tour 1.0 Putter Grip - Jumbo TOUR SOFT or Pro V1X GARMIN - APPROACH S60 GPS WATCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
higherplane Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Great instructions, need to do something as no green practice golf continues JudgeSmails 1 Quote Driver - 2023 Callaway Paradym 9.0, 3 Wood -2022 Rogue ST Max, 3 Hybrid Mavrik, 2017 X-forged 4-PW, Wedges Callaway 50-56-60, Putter Odyssey Toulon Chicago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martymar112 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Great idea and great post. Going to have to add that to my man cave!! JudgeSmails 1 Quote Driver: Titleist Titanium 983K, 10.5, Aldial Green 85-X FW: Nike Covert VRS 2.0, 15, Kuro Kage 70G Hybrid: Adams A4 3H, 18, Rayon Javlnfx h80 Iron: JPX 900 Forged 4-5 JPX 900 Tour 6-PW, Project X 5.5 Wedges:SM7 50 F Grind, 54 S Grind, 60 D Grind Putter: Odyssey White Hot 9, Superstroke Flatso 1.0 grip Ball: Titleist Prov1x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JudgeSmails Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 On 4/20/2020 at 10:02 AM, BLW15 said: Well done! How has it held up under use? Did getting rid of those "bouncy" spots make the whole surface remain solid when walking/standing on it? has held up perfectly fine.....it's very solid to walk/putt on...no issues at all BLW15 1 Quote Driver: TR20 10.5* Hybrids: Epic SuperHybrid 3 18* Epic 4h 23* Irons: JPX900 Hot Metal 5-GW Wedges: CBX2 52* 56* 60* Putter: EV8 Ball: Tour BXS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaffleHouseTour Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Great idea on the furniture levelers. Where I roll out my putting mat is not level - may not follow everything, but I see something similar in the future... JudgeSmails 1 Quote Walking ahead of my BagBoy QuadXL w Alphard eWheels Driver: Callaway Mavrik SubZero 9* Neutral w stock Evenflow Riptide R flex shaft 3W Titelist TS2 15* Draw w Tensei Blue R flex 3H, 4H Cobra One Length F9 Speedback hybrids (1”short) w Fujikura Atmos R flex shaft 5I-GW Cobra Forged TEC Black One Length (1”short, 2* flat) KBS 90 R flex shafts 56, 60 Cobra King MIM One Length Black (1” short) KBS HiRev2.0 125 S flex shafts ER7 or Scotty Futura X - 35” OnCore Elixr (lemon or lime) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLW15 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 On 5/12/2020 at 8:33 AM, JudgeSmails said: has held up perfectly fine.....it's very solid to walk/putt on...no issues at all That's great, well done on a good solid build! JudgeSmails 1 Quote *Equipment Free Agent* Rogue 10.5° - Aldila Synergy 50 Stiff Rogue 17° 4 wood - Aldila Synergy 60 Stiff G25 20° Hybrid - TFC 189 R-Flex JPX 900 Hot Metal 5-PW - KBS Tour C-Taper Lite Steel RTX-4 50°, 54°, 58° - 9° Bounce - Dynamic Gold S400 TP Z Milled 56° SW - 12° Bounce - KBS Wedge Flex TP Black Copper Collection Ardmore 3 - Super Stroke Pistol GT Tour 1.0 Putter Grip - Jumbo TOUR SOFT or Pro V1X GARMIN - APPROACH S60 GPS WATCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSGolf Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 (edited) I just wanted to to say a big thank you for posting these detailed instructions! I made one for my man cave in the basement last fall and followed your directions. It is awesome and love the adjustability. It did wonders for the 6 footers this season. I also recommend calling up Big Moss putting greens for the surface. https://bigmoss.com/ Edited July 28, 2021 by LSGolf Tom the Golf Nut, Shapotomous, fixyurdivot and 2 others 3 2 Quote Driver - Rogue ST Max LS 9* - Fujikura Speeder NX 60 3 Wood - Rogue ST Max LS 15* - Tensei AV Raw Blue Utility Wood - Apex UW 19* - Project X HZRDUS Black RDX Smoke 3 Iron - X-Forged UT 21* - Project X HZRDUS Smoke Black 5 Iron-AW Rogue Pro - Project X Rifle Tour Flighted Steel Wedges - 52*, 60* JAWS RAW Putter - 2-Ball Eleven Tour Lined Current Ball - Chrome Soft X lowerscoresgolf.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixyurdivot Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 Nice guys, those are really great looking! Quote G410 Plus, 9 Degree Driver G400 SFT, 16 Degree 3w G400 SFT, 19 Degree 5w ZX5 Irons 4-AW Glide 2.0 56 Degree SW (removed from double secret probation ) ER5v Putter (Evnroll ER5v Official Review) AI-One Milled Seven T CH (Currently Under Product Test) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shapotomous Posted July 29, 2021 Share Posted July 29, 2021 Beautiful job everyone! I had to laugh at the lumber prices listed way back when before supply shortages!! You can probably triple that now...especially for the 4x8 sheet goods and 2x4's!! Quote Modern Bag: G410 LST 10.5*, Hzrdus Smoke RDX 6.5 Flex; 915F 3w, Diamana S+ 70 S flex; Snake Eyes 18* 2h, 23* 4h & 27* 5h; JPX 900 Forged 6 - PW, PX LZ 6.0; Edison 2.0 49*, 53*, 57* KBS Tour 120 S; Heppler Fetch; Ball - MTB-X; Bag - Jones MyGolfSpy Edition! Shot Scope H4, MG600 Rangefinder Classic Bag: Driver - Persimmon; 3w - Speed Slot; 5w - Tour Block; 3 - pw - Dynapower; sw - Ram Tom Watson; putter - bullseye standard or flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Achilles2K Posted May 7, 2022 Share Posted May 7, 2022 This is a great instructional video. Thanks for sharing. I love the idea of the furniture levellers. I can adapt you dimension to fit the mat I have. We have huge increase in lumber prices in the UK too! When I get round to this I will make it deeper/taller and make it a one-way with a ball-return. Quote Nige "A bad attitude is worse than a bad swing" Driver: Ping i25 9.5 dialled down to 9.0 Wood: Slazenger 3 wood Hybrid: Ping i25 17* Irons: Ping i25 4-SW stiff shaft Green dot (factory adjusted - I only live an hour away) Wedge: Cougar Tour Touch I 50* Wedge: Cleveland RTX 588 58* Putter: Wilson Staff Infinite THE "L" Balls: Srixon Distance (based on personal testing - work best for my game) Other: Shot Scope - can't live without the data! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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