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Anyone out there shorten the driver length to gain more control and tighter dispersion? (or maybe even gained a few yards?) Just seems like when I set up my grip about an inch down the shaft I can give it a free swing rip and results are more consistent. My driver length is std at 45.5. Longest driver I ever owned.

Driver - Titleist TSi3 9.0  (Ventus Blue 6S)

3 wood - TaylorMade SIM2 MAX  15 (Ventus Blue 6S)

5 wood - TaylorMade SIM2 MAX 18 (Ventus Blue 6S)

Irons - Titleist T100s 4-PW (DG X100)

Wedges - Titleist Vokey SM9 50F (DG X100), 54D (DG S400) & 58M (DG S400)

Putter - Titleist Scotty Cameron - Phantom X 11.5

Ball - Titleist Pro V1

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Anyone out there shorten the driver length to gain more control and tighter dispersion? (or maybe even gained a few yards?) Just seems like when I set up my grip about an inch down the shaft I can give it a free swing rip and results are more consistent. My driver length is std at 45.5. Longest driver I ever owned.

Do a search; other threads on this topic

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/36560-driver-length/?tab=comments#comment-597741

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/25772-whos-using-a-shorter-driver-shaft-length/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-553418
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Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
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Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
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Average driver length on the PGA tour is under 45 inches.  So yes, shortening driver length can definitely provide some benefits.  Just remeber that as you shorten the driver, the swingweight will become lighter, so you may need to compensate by adding headweight depending on how the shorter club feels to you

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I always end up regretting shortening my driver. I don't know what it is, I hit the driver fine when choking up, and then I cut it down and it's not the same.

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Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
Wedges:ping-small: Glide 4.0 54 and 58
Putter:  :ping-small: PLD Custom Kushin 4

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I'm not the tallest person at around 5' 6", but I've never gamed a driver over 44". I tried 45" in a Geek driver several years ago, but couldn't hit it worth a lick. So I cut it back to 44" and went back to hitting it pretty well. I've debated on trying it again this spring with a newer driver and adding some weight to the sole since you can easily adjust head weights with weight kits available for some drivers. But for now, I play a 44" driver, and have for years.

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42 minutes ago, therod said:

I'm not the tallest person at around 5' 6", but I've never gamed a driver over 44". I tried 45" in a Geek driver several years ago, but couldn't hit it worth a lick. So I cut it back to 44" and went back to hitting it pretty well. I've debated on trying it again this spring with a newer driver and adding some weight to the sole since you can easily adjust head weights with weight kits available for some drivers. But for now, I play a 44" driver, and have for years.

I’m 5’5” and tried to play a driver cut down to 44” and it didn’t work as well as choking down on a longer driver. 

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Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
Wedges:ping-small: Glide 4.0 54 and 58
Putter:  :ping-small: PLD Custom Kushin 4

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Yes, I just bought a Taylormade M6 with a 45.75" Atmos shaft.After several rounds and some work on the range. I replaced the Atmos with an old 45" Aldila NVS. Since doing so my driving has been more consistent and I've gained a few yards due to better contact. 

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This topic is one that is discussed quite often and the best advice remains the same, it's trial and error to find what works for you.  Some players will benefit from a shorter driver while others won't.  Some players will lose distance, while others find more.  I believe that each swing has a sweet spot length and that's why it's important to try things out.  I've got two drivers that I'll rotate round to round.  One is a 44.5" M3 with a Tour Green 85 TX and the other is a 45.25" M5 with a Synergy Black.  The M5 combo is a bit longer, but the M3 combo is a bit straighter.  The difference between the two is so little though, it's really a wash...for me.

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  • TaylorMade M6 15.9* - PX HZRDUS Green 80 6.5
  • Titleist 816 H2 20* - MCA Diamana S+ 90 X 
  • Srixon Z565 3i - PX 6.5
  • Srixon Z745 4-P - PX LZ 7.0
  • Vokey SM8 52F / 58K - DG TI S400
  • Scotty Cameron X7 Phantom 34”
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I forgot to add that I didn't change the head weight on my M6 when I put in the new shorter shaft. I know making it 3/4" shorter changed the swing weight from D3, but it didn't feel different to me. I know one can buy heavier head weights. Maybe I should do so. I've been told I would need to add 10 more grams to the 3.5 weight that comes in the head. That seems like a lot to me. Is that correct?

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51 minutes ago, Hoganman1 said:

I forgot to add that I didn't change the head weight on my M6 when I put in the new shorter shaft. I know making it 3/4" shorter changed the swing weight from D3, but it didn't feel different to me. I know one can buy heavier head weights. Maybe I should do so. I've been told I would need to add 10 more grams to the 3.5 weight that comes in the head. That seems like a lot to me. Is that correct?

Typically you lose 3 swing weight points per half inch.  May not be exact, but it's in the ball park.  To add one swing weight back, you need to add 2 gr of weight to the head.  Best thing I always recommend is lead tape.  Play around til you find what you like.  At that point, you can either buy a heavier weight or take it to someone who can hot melt the weight for you, or just leave the lead tape in place.  Some people are more sensitive to these changes than others.

ETA:  YMMV since you didn't cut the original shaft and simply replaced it with another one that was shorter.  Depending on shaft weights, balance point, etc...this could all make your swing weight different.  If the new shaft is heavier, it can make the SW reduction not as severe.

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  • TaylorMade SIM2 9.7* - Graphite Design Tour AD-HD 7 TX
  • TaylorMade M6 15.9* - PX HZRDUS Green 80 6.5
  • Titleist 816 H2 20* - MCA Diamana S+ 90 X 
  • Srixon Z565 3i - PX 6.5
  • Srixon Z745 4-P - PX LZ 7.0
  • Vokey SM8 52F / 58K - DG TI S400
  • Scotty Cameron X7 Phantom 34”
  • Titleist -Pro V1X
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20 hours ago, Smellis745 said:

 

ETA:  YMMV since you didn't cut the original shaft and simply replaced it with another one that was shorter.  Depending on shaft weights, balance point, etc...this could all make your swing weight different.  If the new shaft is heavier, it can make the SW reduction not as severe.

This is a good point. My guess is the NVS is heavier. Also, it has a 350 tip. Most shafts now are 335. Anyway unless I have problems in the future I'm not going to worry about it. What's the old saying "if it ain't broke; don't fix it".

Drive for Show; Putt for Dough

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On ‎2‎/‎24‎/‎2020 at 5:04 PM, dlow206 said:

I always end up regretting shortening my driver. I don't know what it is, I hit the driver fine when choking up, and then I cut it down and it's not the same.

We've pretty much beaten this topic to death but this is a question that doesn't often come up.  I knew this anyway but had it confirmed while listening to the fitting room the other day.  Drivers are built for the stock shaft that they come with - that length as well - granted they are a one size fits all proposition but that shaft/head combo will fit a number of people quite well.  You mess with a club's integrity when you do something like cutting down the shaft after purchase.  Most OEM's will make adjustments so that swing weight and lie angle are proper if you are fit for a shorter shaft prior to purchase so you should just get fit up front if this is something that you want to consider.

A shorter shaft will work great for some, perhaps even many, it will stink for others, it could even depend upon the type of driver so that a player might do well with a shorter shaft in one driver but a longer shaft in another.  Move away from what arrives from the factory without the help of a professional and you've introduced a variable.  I wouldn't do it - I've already ruined a really good driver trying a number of years back. 

Good luck

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Taylor Made Stealth 10.5  Aldila Ascent Red R flex

Ping G410 5, 7, 9 wood  Alta 65 R flex

Wilson D7 forged 5-GW -  Mamiya recoil 460 R flex

SCOR 52, 56  

Ping Glide 3.0  Ping Eye 2 grind 58.8

L.A.B. Mezz.1 32.5"

Titleist Pro VIx optic yellow with revkev stamped on them

 

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On 2/24/2020 at 5:04 PM, dlow206 said:

I always end up regretting shortening my driver. I don't know what it is, I hit the driver fine when choking up, and then I cut it down and it's not the same.

Mine, which is still quite new,  came standard at 43.75" with a 275cc head. 

When I ordered it with a slightly heavier shaft that matches my fairways,  I requested 43.5"

I hate the huge drivers, but that's just me. They seem to work fine for most players.

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On 2/26/2020 at 11:02 AM, Hoganman1 said:
On 2/25/2020 at 2:24 PM, Smellis745 said:

 

ETA:  YMMV since you didn't cut the original shaft and simply replaced it with another one that was shorter.  Depending on shaft weights, balance point, etc...this could all make your swing weight different.  If the new shaft is heavier, it can make the SW reduction not as severe.

 

Well, I just learned that my NVS shaft weighs 56 grams and the Atmos that came with the club weighs 53 grams. So my guess is the swing weight only dropped a couple of points if any. Just in case I run into problems later, I bought an 8 gram M6 head weight I can use to compensate. Like I said before the club is performing well. I sometimes get way too anal about this kind of stuff. I just need to practice and play rather than tinker.

Edited by Hoganman1

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I've played about seven different drivers over the past decade (most of which were older Titleist models). All came in at various lengths and I've never had an issue with it. Most recently I went from a Nike Vapor Pro driver with a stock length of 45.5" to a Ping G25 with a stock length of 45.75", and now to a Mizuno ST190 with a stock length of 45". The Nike was the first driver I ever used that could consistently find fairway, but I gave up some distance (ball speeds off the face weren't ideal). I picked up about 10 yards with the Ping while maintaining my ability to find fairway, and preliminary results with the Mizuno suggest another 10 yard gain (minimum) while remaining fairly accurate. The biggest reason I see for the changes in distance all boil down to head design and have very little to do with shaft length. I still find the center of the face at a similar rate and also maintain the same miss - low heel. 

Driver: :mizuno-small: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S
Fairway Wood: :mizuno-small: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S
Hybrid: :mizuno-small: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB
Irons: :bridgestone-small: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100
Wedges: :bridgestone-small: Tour B XW-1 54* & 58* Nippon Modus 3 105
Putter: :odyssey-small: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34"
Bag: :titleist-small: Players 5 Stand Bag
Ball: Maxfli Tour

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/24/2020 at 10:58 AM, jlukes said:

Average driver length on the PGA tour is under 45 inches.  So yes, shortening driver length can definitely provide some benefits.  Just remeber that as you shorten the driver, the swingweight will become lighter, so you may need to compensate by adding headweight depending on how the shorter club feels to you

This!

About 3 years ago I went to a 43.5 driver and added lead tape to get my SW back. I'm actually hitting it longer on average because of better contact.

The only downside is trying out a new driver... they're all standard length shafts at the big stores so I never feel quite comfortable.

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On 2/24/2020 at 3:04 PM, dlow206 said:

I always end up regretting shortening my driver. I don't know what it is, I hit the driver fine when choking up, and then I cut it down and it's not the same.

 

The overall swingweight of a club is affected.  Cutting even 1/2" off will lower the swingweight a couple of points and affect the overall feel of the wood.  It is best to just choke down 1/2 inch and leave the length alone if you have a decent driver.

Driver:  TaylorMade 300 Mini 11.5° (10.2°), Fujikura Ventus Blue 5S Velocore

3W:  TaylorMade M4 15°, Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7S

Hybrid:  TaylorMade Sim2 2 Iron Hybrid 17°, Mitsubishi Tensai AV Raw Blue 80 stiff

Irons:  Ben Hogan Icon blades 4-PW, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

GW / LW:  Scratch Golf 1018 forged 50°/ 58° DS, Nippon Modus3 Tour 120 stiff

SW:  Callaway MD5 Jaws 54°, TT DG Tour Issue S200 115g wedge shaft

Putter: Byron Morgan DH89 GSS custom, Salty MidPlus cork grip

Grips: BestGrips Augusta Microperf leather slip on

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Been reading /watching videos on this subject, ended up tossing 3w shaft in (Cobra F7s) driver with 3w loft sleeve.......not looking good for testing as we still have over a foot of snow on the ground here. No idea if sims are still open.......spring cant come soon enough!!

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Well I finally was able to get my driver weighed. I bought an 8 gram weight from GolfWorks and replaced the stock weight in my M6. The swing weight is D3.8 with the 45" NVS shaft. I've only been able to play twice since I made the change, but I think it's going to work just fine. Once the weather gets warmer and drier, I fully expect to gain maybe ten yards off the tee.

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