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Is Club Champion worth it?


Mr. 82
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2 hours ago, TENBUCK said:

I agree with you to a point. When you say "the vast majority of fitters especially the good ones", how do we as customers know that our fitter is good? @Golfspy_CG2 say that his fitter has 30 years of experience, which is fantastic that he has a relationship with a fitter that good, I didn't. You can take probably 10 fitters some good, some meh, and some that are tops and you'll probably get several different answers about being measured. I for one would like to know what my "specs" are when I got fitted. I read a quote from a master fitter who said"The shaft matching a golfer's swing I'd say is 80 percent of the fitting process, with length, loft, lie and grip making up the other 20 percent." 

It’s like finding a good instructor. Some research and more than likely an “interview” to find their philosophy. As technology has changed with the use of launch monitors fittings have changed as have fitters. Not saying younger fitters aren’t good because o know some that trust to fit me and some older ones I will never use again. Some use the monitor and nothing but and aren’t paying attention to the golfers swing to see how they swing and how that affects the ball flight. I’ve had fitting from ping HQ in back to back years. The two guys in year one were good. They weren’t focused on the monitor other than to confirm what we saw in ball flight and used my feedback to make adjustments. The guys that came the following year were terrible and I watched them fit 1 person before me and two after. They were solely focused on what the monitor was telling them and had no concept of ball flight or contact on the face and how it was affecting the ball. They didn’t even attempt to try different shafts to see if it could change anything on the results.

The last time I’ve seen anyone do a measurement of any sort was 5+ years ago and it was using the ping chart. The ping fitters don’t even use that method anymore. It’s probably been as long since I saw anyone with a lie board. The ones I’ve seen use it do it to show the client the change a lie angle has. 
 

 

 

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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2 hours ago, TENBUCK said:

I forgot to add, when you have a fitter telling you how important to have your clubs spined, you agree, and then you find out that the club you're getting has no spine because of its construction, you kind of doubt their whole process and what they should have or not have done.

Again, this is probably not representative of the whole CC, but it was my experience and that's the only thing I have to go by when someone say CC.

 

1 hour ago, TR1PTIK said:

Depends on whether or not the fitter is recommending spine alignment or SST PURE shaft alignment. SST PUREing isn't quite the same as spine alignment. While both methods attempt to achieve the same thing, the processes are markedly different. Since CC advertises SST PURE technology, I'm going to assume that's what they all go with.

Interesting discussion and I know this thread really isn't the right place but what the heck threads go off the rails all the time 🙂  

Puring, floing, spine align from what I know are basically the same thing.   Puring is a process done by SST that involves expensive machines to find the spine.   Lots of people will tell you it is great while others will say it isn't necessary,  especially shaft manufacturers.  Actually had this discussion with Harry and a couple of others at MGS headquarters.  They had had their shafts flo'd and said that there is a noticeable difference.    Said I wanted to try it out and compare flo'd versus non flo'd shafts.  Hopefully it will be one of the upcoming lab tests. 

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Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15* set  to 16.5* w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 816H1 19* set at 18* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  21*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
               :titelist-small: 915H 24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :callaway-small: 54-10S   :cleveland-small: 588  58-12
Putter:  :seemore-small: mFGP2

Backups:  :bobby-grace-1: 6330, :taylormade-small:TM-180, :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, Bellum Winmore 787

 

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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1 hour ago, cnosil said:

 

Interesting discussion and I know this thread really isn't the right place but what the heck threads go off the rails all the time 🙂  

Puring, floing, spine align from what I know are basically the same thing.   Puring is a process done by SST that involves expensive machines to find the spine.   Lots of people will tell you it is great while others will say it isn't necessary,  especially shaft manufacturers.  Actually had this discussion with Harry and a couple of others at MGS headquarters.  They had had their shafts flo'd and said that there is a noticeable difference.    Said I wanted to try it out and compare flo'd versus non flo'd shafts.  Hopefully it will be one of the upcoming lab tests. 

I think that would make for an interesting test. When I Googled SST Pure vs. Spine Align, a test did pop-up in the results, but the testers used an About Golf simulator. I’m not sure how accurate those simulators are, but I’d expect something like the GC Quad to be better.

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Driver: Mizuno ST190 9.5* Aldila RIP Alpha 60 S
Fairway Wood: Mizuno ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S
Hyrbrid: Mizuno CLK 19* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB
Irons: Bridgestone J40 CB (4-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100
Wedges: Bridgestone Tour B XW-1 50*, 54*, & 58* Nippon Modus 3 105
Putter: Cleveland Huntington Beach SOFT Premier 4 34"
Ball: Snell MTB-X
Bag: 2017 Titleist Players 5 Stand Bag

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I am happy with my recent driver fitting.  It's REALLY expensive though.  You WILL have buyers remorse.  That said, my accuracy and distance greatly improved with the shaft that was recommended.  And for a while I won't have a wandering eye as I hit every driver head out there.  So overall, OK.

To save cash, I suggest you just do the fitting and purchase the head or shafts elsewhere and install yourself.  I don't believe that Champion builds to tighter specs than the OEM. And if they did, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't notice.

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:ping-small: G410 Plus driver, G410 3 wood
:callaway-small:XR 4, 5 hybrids
:titelist-small: 716 AP1 6-GW irons
:edel-golf-1: DRV 54, 58 wedges
:odyssey-small: Two-Ball Ten Tour Lined

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As a regular customer of theirs, I’m always confused by the perception that Club Champion is “crazy expensive”. Their prices are the same as every other retailer in the business on equipment. Prices on new model year equipment don’t really change from one retailer to another. The only thing you pay more for is their services, which are 100% your decision. I feel like the fittings are reasonable considering you get all the latest equipment and technology. Then you can do what you please with that information. The other thing I never hear people mention is the extras that come with your purchase. They stand behind their work so you can go back anytime for adjustments. If you think your swing has changed in a few months, you go back and test it out and they’ll make the needed adjustments. If you spend $1000 over a years time then you get discounts and extra time in the hitting bays. I’m cheap and always looking to save a buck but I can see the value in what they’re doing.

Where people get lost is just how much equipment costs. If you’re not lookin to spend a few grand on an iron set or a thousand dollars on a driver. Then you need to stick with shafts offered by the manufacturer. That needs to be decided during the interview before your fitting though, before you fall in love with a high dollar aftermarket shaft.


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I've had a full bag fitting and I can say that I walked away a little bit more confident in the equipment that I had after I was finished.  The only club that I had better numbers with was the driver and where we spent the most time.  So you can take that two ways.  One being that it wasn't worth the money to do the fitting as it didn't give me any better clubs except driver.  Or the other being that I was confident that I had the best combo after hitting several others.  For me, it was a mix of both.

I'd advise to keep some cards close to chest and go in telling the guy that you are open to all equipment changes so they try to push the best equipment.  I felt like I steered my fitter a bit and most of that was my own fault.  I didn't get much out of the putter or wedge fittings for example and really wanted to try more.  The other advice is to schedule a full bag fitting over two different days.  This will give you more time and not rush you or the fitter on any club categories.  As many have said, wait until you are in peak form as well for best results.

35 minutes ago, LeftyRM7 said:

If you’re not lookin to spend a few grand on an iron set or a thousand dollars on a driver. Then you need to stick with shafts offered by the manufacturer

My issue is that club champion charges the full MSRP of the stock shaft and tacks on more with the upgraded shaft than what you could get elsewhere.  Most times it's an upcharge yes, but far less than what Club Champion charges.  If you're talking about irons, then it gets to be crazy.  

Another point at least for me, is that I'm lucky enough to have a local custom golf shop that has a trackman and really knows there stuff.  I purchased my irons from them a year prior to my Club Champion visit and the irons still outperformed any head/shaft combo in my fitting experience so I trust they do a nice job for me.  Not sure if others have tried this route, but many times a local pro shop with a nice launch monitor CAN be a good option and provide similar results.  Lastly, the shop gets far better deals than anywhere else so I have a lot of savings there.  Example I got my custom Mizuno irons 4 - PW in 2018 (when new) for $850 compared to $1099 in all retail prices.

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Driver:  image.png.3c6db1120d888f669e07d4a8f890b3f1.pngMavrik Sub Zero 9* (Set to 10) Ventus Blue 6X

2 Hybrid: :titelist-small: TSI3 Hybrid Tensei Blue 80 X

4 Iron - Srixon ZX 23* Recoil F5                                                     Testing: :titelist-small: T200 4 Iron Graphite Design Tour AD IZ X Hybrid Shaft

Irons 5-PW: :mizuno-small: MP 18 SC Dynamic Gold AMT X                   Testing: :titelist-small: T100-S 5 - GW KBS Tour 130 X

Gap/Sand Wedge:  :titelist-small: Vokey SM6 49*  SM8 54* 

Lob Wedge:  image.png.3c6db1120d888f669e07d4a8f890b3f1.pngJaws 5 Wedge 58* DG Tour Issue Stiff

Putter:   :scotty-small: Phantom 5.5 34"      Pro Platinum Newport 2 35"      Taylormade Tour Black Spider 34"

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Interesting discussion and I know this thread really isn't the right place but what the heck threads go off the rails all the time [emoji846]  
Puring, floing, spine align from what I know are basically the same thing.   Puring is a process done by SST that involves expensive machines to find the spine.   Lots of people will tell you it is great while others will say it isn't necessary,  especially shaft manufacturers.  Actually had this discussion with Harry and a couple of others at MGS headquarters.  They had had their shafts flo'd and said that there is a noticeable difference.    Said I wanted to try it out and compare flo'd versus non flo'd shafts.  Hopefully it will be one of the upcoming lab tests. 

That would be cool if they do it completely blind, with no results on the screen above to see.


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Driver: :cobra-small: King F9 Speedback/:callaway-small:Epic Max LS, Xphlexxx Busa 2 Liquid, XX stiff, 45”

Fwy:  :callaway-small: Epic Speed 4w, MMT 80X

Hybrid: :callaway-small: X2 Hot Pro, 20*, Graphite Design Tour AD-DI 105X

Irons: :honma:TR20 Tour P 4-10, :Nippon: Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50D/54V/58D:Nippon:Modus 130 stiff, +1”

Putter:  :edel-golf-1: EAS 1.0

All but putter have Lamkin ST+2 Hybrid Calibrate midsize built to oversize +1

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8 hours ago, LeftyRM7 said:

As a regular customer of theirs, I’m always confused by the perception that Club Champion is “crazy expensive”. Their prices are the same as every other retailer in the business on equipment. Prices on new model year equipment don’t really change from one retailer to another. The only thing you pay more for is their services, which are 100% your decision. I feel like the fittings are reasonable considering you get all the latest equipment and technology. Then you can do what you please with that information. The other thing I never hear people mention is the extras that come with your purchase. They stand behind their work so you can go back anytime for adjustments. If you think your swing has changed in a few months, you go back and test it out and they’ll make the needed adjustments. If you spend $1000 over a years time then you get discounts and extra time in the hitting bays. I’m cheap and always looking to save a buck but I can see the value in what they’re doing.

Where people get lost is just how much equipment costs. If you’re not lookin to spend a few grand on an iron set or a thousand dollars on a driver. Then you need to stick with shafts offered by the manufacturer. That needs to be decided during the interview before your fitting though, before you fall in love with a high dollar aftermarket shaft.


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Fair enough.  The only thing is that if you pay full price for a driver with stock shaft and then you pay full price for the suggested shaft, they should at least also give you the stock shaft you paid for in addition to the custom one.  You could recoup a couple of bucks.  --- Like I said, expensive, but I dont regret it. 

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:ping-small: G410 Plus driver, G410 3 wood
:callaway-small:XR 4, 5 hybrids
:titelist-small: 716 AP1 6-GW irons
:edel-golf-1: DRV 54, 58 wedges
:odyssey-small: Two-Ball Ten Tour Lined

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Fair enough.  The only thing is that if you pay full price for a driver with stock shaft and then you pay full price for the suggested shaft, they should at least also give you the stock shaft you paid for in addition to the custom one.  You could recoup a couple of bucks.  --- Like I said, expensive, but I dont regret it. 

I don’t believe that has anything to do with Club Champion, that’s just the way the golf industry does it. I’ve never seen any dealer selling heads only for a discount. If you were to order a driver from anywhere with an aftermarket shaft not offered then you would be paying full price for both. Actually when I got fit for my driver and I was deciding between 2 shafts, one offered by OEM and one not, my fitter suggested ordering the club with the OEM shaft and the other shaft separately if I wanted the upcharged shaft. Same price but I could sell the OEM to make back some of the money like you said.

I get where you are coming from, it’s obviously a flaw in the way the industry does it but it goes to show how little the OEMs value the mass produced “stock shafts” that the clubs come with. Makes you think...


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14 hours ago, Dr Strangelove said:

Fair enough.  The only thing is that if you pay full price for a driver with stock shaft and then you pay full price for the suggested shaft, they should at least also give you the stock shaft you paid for in addition to the custom one.  You could recoup a couple of bucks.  --- Like I said, expensive, but I dont regret it. 

 

12 hours ago, LeftyRM7 said:


I don’t believe that has anything to do with Club Champion, that’s just the way the golf industry does it. I’ve never seen any dealer selling heads only for a discount. If you were to order a driver from anywhere with an aftermarket shaft not offered then you would be paying full price for both. Actually when I got fit for my driver and I was deciding between 2 shafts, one offered by OEM and one not, my fitter suggested ordering the club with the OEM shaft and the other shaft separately if I wanted the upcharged shaft. Same price but I could sell the OEM to make back some of the money like you said.

I get where you are coming from, it’s obviously a flaw in the way the industry does it but it goes to show how little the OEMs value the mass produced “stock shafts” that the clubs come with. Makes you think...


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You got it. Go to any golf store website or the manufacturer themselves who offer sales online like TM. Choose a driver and customize it with the upgrade shafts they offer. You will pay the same price for the driver as with the no upcharge shaft plus the cost of the upgrade shaft. The good thing about the price of getting the upgrade shaft with the purchase is you save about $100 compared to if you bought it separately.

now if you get an upgrade shaft that the brand doesn’t offer then you have to buy the driver with the free shaft and but the aftermarket shaft from an authorized dealer at full price.

Club champion has to pay the price of the club with shaft. That cost goes to the customer along with the shaft they get fit to.

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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11 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

 

You got it. Go to any golf store website or the manufacturer themselves who offer sales online like TM. Choose a driver and customize it with the upgrade shafts they offer. You will pay the same price for the driver as with the no upcharge shaft plus the cost of the upgrade shaft. The good thing about the price of getting the upgrade shaft with the purchase is you save about $100 compared to if you bought it separately.

now if you get an upgrade shaft that the brand doesn’t offer then you have to buy the driver with the free shaft and but the aftermarket shaft from an authorized dealer at full price.

Club champion has to pay the price of the club with shaft. That cost goes to the customer along with the shaft they get fit to.

Right. If I'm following you, I (they) had to buy the club with the original shaft.  And then I (they) had to buy another shaft.  Except I didn't also get the original shaft.  Irks me. But still satisfied overall.

:ping-small: G410 Plus driver, G410 3 wood
:callaway-small:XR 4, 5 hybrids
:titelist-small: 716 AP1 6-GW irons
:edel-golf-1: DRV 54, 58 wedges
:odyssey-small: Two-Ball Ten Tour Lined

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That's been my experience too. I bought a set of Mizuno irons from them last year, got fit into a shaft that Mizuno offers as part of their catalog, and decided to PURE the shafts. They offered me two purchase options: (1) order it assembled from Mizuno and have them pull/PURE/reassemble, or (2) order the shafts through Club Champion separate from the heads, which made the PUREing process cheaper. Option 2 was significantly more expensive - I don't remember exact numbers, but it was in the $200-$400 range for 7 irons. They tried to sell me on option 2, saying something about their shafts outperforming the ones from Mizuno - I made sure to ask if they were actually the same shaft and not a lower quality OEM label, and they confirmed they are the same, so I'm not sure where the outperformance comes from. 

I also had them replace my driving iron shaft with a new custom shaft (previously matched my irons, went graphite), and they either kept or trashed my old shaft. 

For woods, my strategy is to buy shafts only from Club Champion, and buy heads off the rack or direct from the manufacturer. As long as I stick with the same brand and they don't change the adapter, I just buy the full club, swap shafts, and sell the old head with the new shaft (did this with my Epic when I upgraded to the Flash - the buyer was happy to have a new OEM EvenFlow with the old Epic head) - even if switching brands, a clubmaker will swap the adapters for around $20-30. 

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Driver: :callaway-small: Epic Flash Sub Zero, 9* (adjusted to 10*), Accra TZ6 75 (American Flag), M5 Flex

Fairway: :taylormade-small: SIM, 15*, Accra FX 2.0 300F, M5 Flex

Driving Iron: :srixon-small: U85 2 iron, Fujikura Pro 2.0 8 HB, S Flex

Irons: :mizuno-small: 4-6:JPX-919 Forged, 7-PW: JPX-919 Tour. All with Nippon Pro Modus 120 S Flex

Wedges: :mizuno-small:T-20 Blue Ion 50.07, 56.10 w/DG Tour Issue S400 (60.06 currently on the bench in favor of :Miura: K-Grind 2.0 60* w/Accra SPI Tour)

Putter: Depends on the day. Bounce between :EVNROLL: ER5B 35" with Gravity Pistol Grip and :mizuno-small: M Craft Type II Blue Ion

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8 hours ago, Dr Strangelove said:

Right. If I'm following you, I (they) had to buy the club with the original shaft.  And then I (they) had to buy another shaft.  Except I didn't also get the original shaft.  Irks me. But still satisfied overall.

Yes but it would be the same if you order any brand from a store with an upgrade shaft.

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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55 minutes ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

Yes but it would be the same if you order any brand from a store with an upgrade shaft.

Thanks. I feel a LITTLE better then.  Just a little.

:ping-small: G410 Plus driver, G410 3 wood
:callaway-small:XR 4, 5 hybrids
:titelist-small: 716 AP1 6-GW irons
:edel-golf-1: DRV 54, 58 wedges
:odyssey-small: Two-Ball Ten Tour Lined

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45 minutes ago, Dr Strangelove said:

Thanks. I feel a LITTLE better then.  Just a little.

I’m with you. It would be nice to be able to order the head at a lower price when ordering upgrade shaft. Custom club builders allow that and it’s usually close in price to ordering from the brand, with the advantage being larger shaft selection which is what CC offers and your chances of desired swing weight go up with custom builders, although from what I’ve seen around the web TM has done a good job this year getting that right. Titleist and Ping have been pretty good as well.

 

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Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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4 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

Yes but it would be the same if you order any brand from a store with an upgrade shaft.

3 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

I’m with you. It would be nice to be able to order the head at a lower price when ordering upgrade shaft. Custom club builders allow that and it’s usually close in price to ordering from the brand, with the advantage being larger shaft selection which is what CC offers and your chances of desired swing weight go up with custom builders, although from what I’ve seen around the web TM has done a good job this year getting that right. Titleist and Ping have been pretty good as well.

 

@RickyBobby_PR it's not exactly the same, notably for clubs/shafts with adapters that you can just pop in and out. Some stores and ordering methods are roughly the same, but there are quite a few other factors mixed in -- for example, discounts/contracts that the OEM and/or shop has with the shaft manufacturer could change the pricing and strategy. The buying strategy is a big factor too, as there are (at least) three potential ordering methods with other shops: (1) If the shop orders directly from the OEM with the upgraded shaft (which you can do online as well), then you might or might not be paying full MSRP for the shaft upgrade; (2) if the shop orders the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer, then you will most likely buy the club with the stock shaft and buy the upgraded shaft separately, so you'd end up with two shafts (unless you just opt not to go home with the stock shaft, or the shop chooses not to do it this way); (3) if the shop orders components separately (the CC model), you pay full MSRP for each component.

I think that's @Dr Strangelove's point here - Club Champion will direct you toward getting the head and upgraded shaft for full MSRP of both, and you only walk away with one shaft when you could walk away with two shafts for roughly the same price. The best strategy is going to vary across people and situations, but for me, as long as I'm using a driver with interchangeable shafts, I'd rather take the "two shaft" option if I can get it for a very similar price - I always keep an extra shaft on hand to help with resale and/or trade-in when I get a new driver head (I'm sure this extends beyond me, but I definitely would not include my Accra in a resale or retailer trade, and instead plan to keep it for my next head).

Examples of where the pricing could be different: Poking through the Mavrik shaft upgrade options, here are two comparisons. DISCLAIMER: I don't have quotes from Club Champion on these shafts, but every shaft I've bought from them was full MSRP, so I'm going into this with that as an assumption: 

  • Aldila shafts may come at a discount. If you upgrade from their stock Rogue White 130MSI to the Rogue Silver 130MSI, ordering direct from Callaway will be a $300 addition. The Silver MSRP is $450 and it's selling for $425 from two of the online retailers I trust, so buying both the head and shaft from CC would be a $125-$150 premium over a direct OEM order for the same config. This discount may be explained by the fact that the stock is the same brand, so they might cut Callaway a deal on upgrades.
    • As I mentioned in a post above, CC could order the Aldila config directly from Callaway for that same price. They do this with the $0 upgrade shafts, but I'm not sure how they'd handle a $300 upgrade option, and in my experience, they will still push you to buy the shaft direct from them rather than from Callaway.   
  • Oban: Callaway appears to have no discount, so their direct price will be the same as CC for the single-head-single-shaft setup. If buying Oban, buying the full "stock" club separately and the shaft through CC lets you walk away with two shafts for the same price. 

Being 100% fair on the price difference, PUREing and the adapter are also factors. If buying the full club directly from CC, I don't know if they include an adapter or if that's one of their add-ons; buying the shaft only, you'll definitely pay ~$35 for a new adapter through CC, unless you let them take the adapter from your other shaft. For PUREing, buying the full club or the shaft from CC likely includes PURE in the retail price, while it's ~$65 for them to pull/PURE/reassemble (so in the Aldila case, you're looking at a $365 shaft cost for the Callaway-direct upgrade).

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Driver: :callaway-small: Epic Flash Sub Zero, 9* (adjusted to 10*), Accra TZ6 75 (American Flag), M5 Flex

Fairway: :taylormade-small: SIM, 15*, Accra FX 2.0 300F, M5 Flex

Driving Iron: :srixon-small: U85 2 iron, Fujikura Pro 2.0 8 HB, S Flex

Irons: :mizuno-small: 4-6:JPX-919 Forged, 7-PW: JPX-919 Tour. All with Nippon Pro Modus 120 S Flex

Wedges: :mizuno-small:T-20 Blue Ion 50.07, 56.10 w/DG Tour Issue S400 (60.06 currently on the bench in favor of :Miura: K-Grind 2.0 60* w/Accra SPI Tour)

Putter: Depends on the day. Bounce between :EVNROLL: ER5B 35" with Gravity Pistol Grip and :mizuno-small: M Craft Type II Blue Ion

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18 minutes ago, ChiefMikeOfficer said:

@RickyBobby_PR it's not exactly the same, notably for clubs/shafts with adapters that you can just pop in and out. Some stores and ordering methods are roughly the same, but there are quite a few other factors mixed in -- for example, discounts/contracts that the OEM and/or shop has with the shaft manufacturer could change the pricing and strategy. The buying strategy is a big factor too, as there are (at least) three potential ordering methods with other shops: (1) If the shop orders directly from the OEM with the upgraded shaft (which you can do online as well), then you might or might not be paying full MSRP for the shaft upgrade; (2) if the shop orders the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer, then you will most likely buy the club with the stock shaft and buy the upgraded shaft separately, so you'd end up with two shafts (unless you just opt not to go home with the stock shaft, or the shop chooses not to do it this way); (3) if the shop orders components separately (the CC model), you pay full MSRP for each component.

I’ve never paid msrp for any club. Most places don’t sell for msrp either they sell at the MAP or somewhere between. I have order multiple clubs directly from the brands...I tend to do this with taylormade as they offer 15% military discount which is better than what I get from my fitter. I have ordered thru my fitter and his accounts with the brands and I have orders from a custom club builder. 
 

From the brand directly you get the shaft you order and pay the retail price of the club plus the upgrade plus the cost of a grip is it’s not standard. Example would be the sim max at $499 with ventus velocore. You pay the $499 pus the $250 upgrade for the shaft and only get the ventus shaft. 

Going thru an account you could pay for the head plus stock shaft plus the cost of the upgrade shaft, still going to pay full price for all of them. Unless wanting a shaft to use for trade in at a later date this way isn’t something that makes sense to me

Thru a custom builder the head will be less than the retail price of a driver but you pay full retail for the upgrade shaft. Ventus will run $350 this way and the head about $350-400. Still comes out to about the same price as ordering they the brand. 

 

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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2 hours ago, RickyBobby_PR said:

 

Thru a custom builder the head will be less than the retail price of a driver but you pay full retail for the upgrade shaft. Ventus will run $350 this way and the head about $350-400. Still comes out to about the same price as ordering they the brand. 

 

I think this is where we're saying different things --  this example is similar to my Aldila example. I agree with you in general, but this chain is about Club Champion. Club Champion doesn't charge $350-400 for the head, they charge $499 plus $350 for the Ventus. They might offer you the $499+$250 option direct from TM then tack on retro-PUREing for $65, or they might not for that kind of shaft upgrade. 

Maybe I'm wrong here when it comes to woods -- like I said, I've only bought wood shafts (not heads) from them, but this is the exact pricing scheme that they had for my irons, and others in this thread are reporting similar things. For my 7 iron set, the "Club Champion option" (buy shafts directly from CC) was significantly more expensive than buying the assembled irons from the manufacturer and retro-PUREing w/new grips (I don't remember the exact price difference because I threw the quote out almost immediately, but I'm pretty sure it was more than $30 per club -- there was certainly no "head-only" price reduction if buying shafts through CC). 

Edited by ChiefMikeOfficer
Clarify price difference

Driver: :callaway-small: Epic Flash Sub Zero, 9* (adjusted to 10*), Accra TZ6 75 (American Flag), M5 Flex

Fairway: :taylormade-small: SIM, 15*, Accra FX 2.0 300F, M5 Flex

Driving Iron: :srixon-small: U85 2 iron, Fujikura Pro 2.0 8 HB, S Flex

Irons: :mizuno-small: 4-6:JPX-919 Forged, 7-PW: JPX-919 Tour. All with Nippon Pro Modus 120 S Flex

Wedges: :mizuno-small:T-20 Blue Ion 50.07, 56.10 w/DG Tour Issue S400 (60.06 currently on the bench in favor of :Miura: K-Grind 2.0 60* w/Accra SPI Tour)

Putter: Depends on the day. Bounce between :EVNROLL: ER5B 35" with Gravity Pistol Grip and :mizuno-small: M Craft Type II Blue Ion

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It's not just the (stock) shaft you're paying for twice, you're also paying twice for a grip and adapter (Callaway OptiFit) in my CC experience. Sorry that's another BS part of the golf industry and all the endorsement, advertising and other expenses consumers pay for.

 

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2 hours ago, ChiefMikeOfficer said:

@RickyBobby_PR it's not exactly the same, notably for clubs/shafts with adapters that you can just pop in and out. Some stores and ordering methods are roughly the same, but there are quite a few other factors mixed in -- for example, discounts/contracts that the OEM and/or shop has with the shaft manufacturer could change the pricing and strategy. The buying strategy is a big factor too, as there are (at least) three potential ordering methods with other shops: (1) If the shop orders directly from the OEM with the upgraded shaft (which you can do online as well), then you might or might not be paying full MSRP for the shaft upgrade; (2) if the shop orders the shaft directly from the shaft manufacturer, then you will most likely buy the club with the stock shaft and buy the upgraded shaft separately, so you'd end up with two shafts (unless you just opt not to go home with the stock shaft, or the shop chooses not to do it this way); (3) if the shop orders components separately (the CC model), you pay full MSRP for each component.

I think that's @Dr Strangelove's point here - Club Champion will direct you toward getting the head and upgraded shaft for full MSRP of both, and you only walk away with one shaft when you could walk away with two shafts for roughly the same price. The best strategy is going to vary across people and situations, but for me, as long as I'm using a driver with interchangeable shafts, I'd rather take the "two shaft" option if I can get it for a very similar price - I always keep an extra shaft on hand to help with resale and/or trade-in when I get a new driver head (I'm sure this extends beyond me, but I definitely would not include my Accra in a resale or retailer trade, and instead plan to keep it for my next head).

Examples of where the pricing could be different: Poking through the Mavrik shaft upgrade options, here are two comparisons. DISCLAIMER: I don't have quotes from Club Champion on these shafts, but every shaft I've bought from them was full MSRP, so I'm going into this with that as an assumption: 

  • Aldila shafts may come at a discount. If you upgrade from their stock Rogue White 130MSI to the Rogue Silver 130MSI, ordering direct from Callaway will be a $300 addition. The Silver MSRP is $450 and it's selling for $425 from two of the online retailers I trust, so buying both the head and shaft from CC would be a $125-$150 premium over a direct OEM order for the same config. This discount may be explained by the fact that the stock is the same brand, so they might cut Callaway a deal on upgrades.
    • As I mentioned in a post above, CC could order the Aldila config directly from Callaway for that same price. They do this with the $0 upgrade shafts, but I'm not sure how they'd handle a $300 upgrade option, and in my experience, they will still push you to buy the shaft direct from them rather than from Callaway.   
  • Oban: Callaway appears to have no discount, so their direct price will be the same as CC for the single-head-single-shaft setup. If buying Oban, buying the full "stock" club separately and the shaft through CC lets you walk away with two shafts for the same price. 

Being 100% fair on the price difference, PUREing and the adapter are also factors. If buying the full club directly from CC, I don't know if they include an adapter or if that's one of their add-ons; buying the shaft only, you'll definitely pay ~$35 for a new adapter through CC, unless you let them take the adapter from your other shaft. For PUREing, buying the full club or the shaft from CC likely includes PURE in the retail price, while it's ~$65 for them to pull/PURE/reassemble (so in the Aldila case, you're looking at a $365 shaft cost for the Callaway-direct upgrade).

Exactly, Chief Mike Officer.

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:titelist-small: 716 AP1 6-GW irons
:edel-golf-1: DRV 54, 58 wedges
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