Issue pulling shaft

[pozzit 790]

Im trying to test out shafts for the Maltby clubs I put together and can't seem to get the head off. I've been trying to get an Apex Pro head off, I used a butane torch for gradually it to 3 solid minutes of flame with rotating shaft every 10 second or so.

 

I also have tried a heat gun on it with 10 minutes of heat getting the head above 200F and it's still no movement at all. Anyone have any suggestions on different method or any chemicals to help release it.

 

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[pulledabill 2,625]

Are these Hogans?  They might have a pin in them. 

[pozzit 790]

No Callaway Apex Pro cf16.

[Calvo90 104]

Just heat those babies up. First heat the hosel around for 20 seconds and try twisting the shaft (only steel not graphite!). If unsuccesful, try another 10 seconds.  Epoxy will eventually release.

[pozzit 790]

Just heat those babies up. First heat the hosel around for 20 seconds and try twisting the shaft (only steel not graphite!). If unsuccesful, try another 10 seconds.  Epoxy will eventually release.

I have tried heating it off and on several minutes and didn't seam to break the epoxy. I don't have a great vice that doesn't really resist twist so its all what I can do to hold the grip and twist the head.
They are steel shafts FYI.

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[Kenny B 29,642]

First, I have only used a shaft extractor since most of my pulls have been with graphite.  On steel it should be fairly easy to pull.  I've used a heat gun and a propane micro torch.  I like the torch; it's much quicker, and I can put the heat where I want it better than a heat gun.

IMO heating off and on isn't going to work very well, especially when trying to remove by hand.  Once you remove the heat, the epoxy will start setting up again enough that pulling/twisting it off is difficult. Grabbing the head with glove, towels, whatever also cools the head.  At 200º you are close to the temp where it will break loose, but that will vary depending on what epoxy was used in the build.  

If you are doing this without a vise, get a second person to hold the grip end, heat the hosel continuously while the other person rotates the club; might take 45 sec to a min with a torch or 3-5 minutes with a heat gun depending on how hot the gun gets.  When you see a little smoke, grab the head, pull and twist.  Not for graphite though.  LOL

Personally, I would get a vise and invest in a cheap shaft puller from Golfworks.  It applies constant pressure to the hosel, so when the appropriate amount of heat is reached, the head pops straight off.

[awcarlisle01 29]

If you haven’t spent the money for a club puller you’re wasting your time. However I use a map gas torch aka yellow bottle from your local hardware store and it cuts the time in half or more. If I didn’t have a puller this is what I would use first. Fortunately I have both and no problems ever!!!

[pozzit 790]

First, I have only used a shaft extractor since most of my pulls have been with graphite.  On steel it should be fairly easy to pull.  I've used a heat gun and a propane micro torch.  I like the torch; it's much quicker, and I can put the heat where I want it better than a heat gun.
IMO heating off and on isn't going to work very well, especially when trying to remove by hand.  Once you remove the heat, the epoxy will start setting up again enough that pulling/twisting it off is difficult. Grabbing the head with glove, towels, whatever also cools the head.  At 200º you are close to the temp where it will break loose, but that will vary depending on what epoxy was used in the build.  
If you are doing this without a vise, get a second person to hold the grip end, heat the hosel continuously while the other person rotates the club; might take 45 sec to a min with a torch or 3-5 minutes with a heat gun depending on how hot the gun gets.  When you see a little smoke, grab the head, pull and twist.  Not for graphite though.  LOL
Personally, I would get a vise and invest in a cheap shaft puller from Golfworks.  It applies constant pressure to the hosel, so when the appropriate amount of heat is reached, the head pops straight off.

Well I tried getting them off tonight again and went with a new technique 5 minute of heat gun to bring the temperature up then 1 minute of butane torch. I got 1 of 3 heads off this way and the one that came off was one that I had assembled. I will try again tomorrow on the other 2 heads and if that doesn't work I'll pick up a propane torch and try not to burn the house down.

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[dlow206 9,723]

11 minutes ago, pozzit said:

Well I tried getting them off tonight again and went with a new technique 5 minute of heat gun to bring the temperature up then 1 minute of butane torch. I got 1 of 3 heads off this way and the one that came off was one that I had assembled. I will try again tomorrow on the other 2 heads and if that doesn't work I'll pick up a propane torch and try not to burn the house down.

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That's nuts that it took that much heat. Even though I have a shaft puller, for steel shafts i just hit up for 20 seconds and then just twist and pull the head off. It gets pretty hot after 20 seconds, I use welding gloves to protect myself when I twist the head, rather than using towels or something less heat resistant.

[Calvo90 104]

5 minutes is crazy long and you are probably risking damaging any non.steel parts in the head. Usually I need 20 seconds max with industrial fan and then I can twist the heads off by hand. No vice needed for steel shafts.

BTW - Did you notice any brass shims in the hosels? I suspect you might find some. They can make seriously snug fit of the shaft and the head and dam* near impossible to twist the head off. I remember reshafting Srixon Z U65 which I believe had 0.362 hosel size and was shafted with .355 shaft + brass shim. The epoxy quickly released the head (the crackling sound) but that shim was a pain in the ***.

[pulledabill 2,625]

I've done some with a heat gun and don't love it.  Micro torch for me.  You can get pretty aggressive with it by heating it on 3 sides.  Don't be afraid to get right up on it with steel shafts.  No vice or puller needed for steel.  I just put on a leather glove and they pull right off with no issues. 

[pozzit 790]

Well all I appreciate all the help. I tried one more time with butane and heat gun and didn't succeed so I bought a propane torch.

10 minutes later I had the 3 remaining heads off. 30 seconds and a little twist they came right off.

I was trying to be safe and not damage any heads with the heat gun, stepped up a touch with butane, but sometimes a sledgehammer is the right tool.

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[edteergolf 312]

Propane torch, heat it and twist it off.  Takes lots of heat to discolor the club.  It is a hunk of steel and people treat them like they are working with an egg.  

[cycleguy55 25]

On 3/31/2020 at 8:28 PM, pozzit said:

Well all I appreciate all the help. I tried one more time with butane and heat gun and didn't succeed so I bought a propane torch.

10 minutes later I had the 3 remaining heads off. 30 seconds and a little twist they came right off.

I was trying to be safe and not damage any heads with the heat gun, stepped up a touch with butane, but sometimes a sledgehammer is the right tool.

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Butane torches are generally listed as producing maximum temperatures of about 2400 deg F, while propane are listed at 3600 deg F.  Big difference, as you've discovered.

[Kor.A.Door 5,843]

For future reference for anyone removing heads buy some Mapp Gas. It’s the yellow bottle for your torch. It burns really hot, really fast. And works really well for steel shafts 8-10 seconds of heat to remove the head. Stubborn heads takes 20-30 seconds of heat. For graphite you 99% need a shaft puller. 

[awcarlisle01 29]

On 3/27/2020 at 6:29 PM, pozzit said:

 

Im trying to test out shafts for the Maltby clubs I put together and can't seem to get the head off. I've been trying to get an Apex Pro head off, I used a butane torch for gradually it to 3 solid minutes of flame with rotating shaft every 10 second or so.

 

I also have tried a heat gun on it with 10 minutes of heat getting the head above 200F and it's still no movement at all. Anyone have any suggestions on different method or any chemicals to help release it.

 

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app

 

 

 

I use MAP gas and it’s the yellow bottle at Home Depot. Pulls heads super fast.

[Kor.A.Door 5,843]

On 4/18/2020 at 9:55 AM, awcarlisle01 said:

I use MAP gas and it’s the yellow bottle at Home Depot. Pulls heads super fast.

Yep. That’s what I use. Burns really hot really fast.

[McaseyM 1,720]

I just pick up this shaft extractor off eBay for $28 shipped... used it today and worked awesome. This was a graphite shaft in a kids club I wanted to test before working on my friends high end shafts as I’ve overheated a few of my own.

it uses a strong compressed spring to push the head off once the epoxy is soft enough, per the maker it has ~102 pounds of fully compressed. took about 40 seconds.

cant beat the price

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Golf-Club-Shaft-Extractor-Puller-More-Powerful-Model/283805474994?hash=item42141fe0b2:g:nycAAOxyqUpQ6OO7

 

 

 

[release 179]

Make sure ALL the epoxied surface are heat up !

Often neglected spots are (1) bottom of the hosel bore (2) close to the top hosel opening .  Even if there is only a very small area not heated up properly, the epoxy will hold the shaft in place for pulling.

People usually have difficulty extracting shafts because one small area is not heated enough to break down the epoxy.  Of course, if used a non-shafting epoxy with higher break down temperature would be a huge issue.

[pozzit 790]

Make sure ALL the epoxied surface are heat up !
Often neglected spots are (1) bottom of the hosel bore (2) close to the top hosel opening .  Even if there is only a very small area not heated up properly, the epoxy will hold the shaft in place for pulling.
People usually have difficulty extracting shafts because one small area is not heated enough to break down the epoxy.  Of course, if used a non-shafting epoxy with higher break down temperature would be a huge issue.

I think this was part of the problem I had when I used the head gun I think I may have missed some spots or it was cooking too quickly as I was heating another area.

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