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Im trying to test out shafts for the Maltby clubs I put together and can't seem to get the head off. I've been trying to get an Apex Pro head off, I used a butane torch for gradually it to 3 solid minutes of flame with rotating shaft every 10 second or so.

 

I also have tried a heat gun on it with 10 minutes of heat getting the head above 200F and it's still no movement at all. Anyone have any suggestions on different method or any chemicals to help release it.

 

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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Are these Hogans?  They might have a pin in them. 

DRIVER: Cobra F9 10.5  Tensei AV Blue 65g

3W- Callway XR PRO 16 stiff

5W- Alpha- Mitsubishi Diamana  Redboard w/band

Irons- Mizuno JPX 919 Tours with S KBS Tour shafts

Hyrbid- TM 4h mid-rescue

Vokey- Vokey SM5 51 degrees,  SM7 Wedges 54 and 58 1/2 half 3 degrees upright

Putter- Taylor Made Rossa Monza Mini Spider

Ball-ProV1 and AVX

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No Callaway Apex Pro cf16.

Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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Just heat those babies up. First heat the hosel around for 20 seconds and try twisting the shaft (only steel not graphite!). If unsuccesful, try another 10 seconds.  Epoxy will eventually release.

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:taylormade-small: Stealth Plus 10,5°, Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS, 60S

:taylormade-small: The Original One Mini Driver, 13,5°,  Fujikura Ventus Red 70S

:ping-small: G425 MAX 5 wood, 7 wood, Tensei AV Orange 75R

:srixon-small: Z U65 4, Z565 5-6, Z765 7-8 , Z965 9-PW, Project X 5.5,

:ping-small: Glide 4.0, 52°, Z-115, 58°, Z-115

:EVNROLL: ER5, 34'', Gravity Grip

 

 

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Just heat those babies up. First heat the hosel around for 20 seconds and try twisting the shaft (only steel not graphite!). If unsuccesful, try another 10 seconds.  Epoxy will eventually release.
I have tried heating it off and on several minutes and didn't seam to break the epoxy. I don't have a great vice that doesn't really resist twist so its all what I can do to hold the grip and twist the head.
They are steel shafts FYI.

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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First, I have only used a shaft extractor since most of my pulls have been with graphite.  On steel it should be fairly easy to pull.  I've used a heat gun and a propane micro torch.  I like the torch; it's much quicker, and I can put the heat where I want it better than a heat gun.

IMO heating off and on isn't going to work very well, especially when trying to remove by hand.  Once you remove the heat, the epoxy will start setting up again enough that pulling/twisting it off is difficult. Grabbing the head with glove, towels, whatever also cools the head.  At 200º you are close to the temp where it will break loose, but that will vary depending on what epoxy was used in the build.  

If you are doing this without a vise, get a second person to hold the grip end, heat the hosel continuously while the other person rotates the club; might take 45 sec to a min with a torch or 3-5 minutes with a heat gun depending on how hot the gun gets.  When you see a little smoke, grab the head, pull and twist.  Not for graphite though.  LOL

Personally, I would get a vise and invest in a cheap shaft puller from Golfworks.  It applies constant pressure to the hosel, so when the appropriate amount of heat is reached, the head pops straight off.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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If you haven’t spent the money for a club puller you’re wasting your time. However I use a map gas torch aka yellow bottle from your local hardware store and it cuts the time in half or more. If I didn’t have a puller this is what I would use first. Fortunately I have both and no problems ever!!!

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First, I have only used a shaft extractor since most of my pulls have been with graphite.  On steel it should be fairly easy to pull.  I've used a heat gun and a propane micro torch.  I like the torch; it's much quicker, and I can put the heat where I want it better than a heat gun.
IMO heating off and on isn't going to work very well, especially when trying to remove by hand.  Once you remove the heat, the epoxy will start setting up again enough that pulling/twisting it off is difficult. Grabbing the head with glove, towels, whatever also cools the head.  At 200º you are close to the temp where it will break loose, but that will vary depending on what epoxy was used in the build.  
If you are doing this without a vise, get a second person to hold the grip end, heat the hosel continuously while the other person rotates the club; might take 45 sec to a min with a torch or 3-5 minutes with a heat gun depending on how hot the gun gets.  When you see a little smoke, grab the head, pull and twist.  Not for graphite though.  LOL
Personally, I would get a vise and invest in a cheap shaft puller from Golfworks.  It applies constant pressure to the hosel, so when the appropriate amount of heat is reached, the head pops straight off.
Well I tried getting them off tonight again and went with a new technique 5 minute of heat gun to bring the temperature up then 1 minute of butane torch. I got 1 of 3 heads off this way and the one that came off was one that I had assembled. I will try again tomorrow on the other 2 heads and if that doesn't work I'll pick up a propane torch and try not to burn the house down.

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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11 minutes ago, pozzit said:

Well I tried getting them off tonight again and went with a new technique 5 minute of heat gun to bring the temperature up then 1 minute of butane torch. I got 1 of 3 heads off this way and the one that came off was one that I had assembled. I will try again tomorrow on the other 2 heads and if that doesn't work I'll pick up a propane torch and try not to burn the house down.

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app
 

That's nuts that it took that much heat. Even though I have a shaft puller, for steel shafts i just hit up for 20 seconds and then just twist and pull the head off. It gets pretty hot after 20 seconds, I use welding gloves to protect myself when I twist the head, rather than using towels or something less heat resistant.

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5 minutes is crazy long and you are probably risking damaging any non.steel parts in the head. Usually I need 20 seconds max with industrial fan and then I can twist the heads off by hand. No vice needed for steel shafts.

BTW - Did you notice any brass shims in the hosels? I suspect you might find some. They can make seriously snug fit of the shaft and the head and dam* near impossible to twist the head off. I remember reshafting Srixon Z U65 which I believe had 0.362 hosel size and was shafted with .355 shaft + brass shim. The epoxy quickly released the head (the crackling sound) but that shim was a pain in the ***.

:ping-small:  G425 MAX, 10,5°, Fujikura Ventus Blue 60S

:taylormade-small: Stealth Plus 10,5°, Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS, 60S

:taylormade-small: The Original One Mini Driver, 13,5°,  Fujikura Ventus Red 70S

:ping-small: G425 MAX 5 wood, 7 wood, Tensei AV Orange 75R

:srixon-small: Z U65 4, Z565 5-6, Z765 7-8 , Z965 9-PW, Project X 5.5,

:ping-small: Glide 4.0, 52°, Z-115, 58°, Z-115

:EVNROLL: ER5, 34'', Gravity Grip

 

 

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I've done some with a heat gun and don't love it.  Micro torch for me.  You can get pretty aggressive with it by heating it on 3 sides.  Don't be afraid to get right up on it with steel shafts.  No vice or puller needed for steel.  I just put on a leather glove and they pull right off with no issues. 

DRIVER: Cobra F9 10.5  Tensei AV Blue 65g

3W- Callway XR PRO 16 stiff

5W- Alpha- Mitsubishi Diamana  Redboard w/band

Irons- Mizuno JPX 919 Tours with S KBS Tour shafts

Hyrbid- TM 4h mid-rescue

Vokey- Vokey SM5 51 degrees,  SM7 Wedges 54 and 58 1/2 half 3 degrees upright

Putter- Taylor Made Rossa Monza Mini Spider

Ball-ProV1 and AVX

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Well all I appreciate all the help. I tried one more time with butane and heat gun and didn't succeed so I bought a propane torch.

10 minutes later I had the 3 remaining heads off. 30 seconds and a little twist they came right off.

I was trying to be safe and not damage any heads with the heat gun, stepped up a touch with butane, but sometimes a sledgehammer is the right tool.

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app

Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/31/2020 at 8:28 PM, pozzit said:

Well all I appreciate all the help. I tried one more time with butane and heat gun and didn't succeed so I bought a propane torch.

10 minutes later I had the 3 remaining heads off. 30 seconds and a little twist they came right off.

I was trying to be safe and not damage any heads with the heat gun, stepped up a touch with butane, but sometimes a sledgehammer is the right tool.

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app
 

Butane torches are generally listed as producing maximum temperatures of about 2400 deg F, while propane are listed at 3600 deg F.  Big difference, as you've discovered.

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For future reference for anyone removing heads buy some Mapp Gas. It’s the yellow bottle for your torch. It burns really hot, really fast. And works really well for steel shafts 8-10 seconds of heat to remove the head. Stubborn heads takes 20-30 seconds of heat. For graphite you 99% need a shaft puller. 

Lefties are always in their Right Mind

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On 3/27/2020 at 6:29 PM, pozzit said:

 

Im trying to test out shafts for the Maltby clubs I put together and can't seem to get the head off. I've been trying to get an Apex Pro head off, I used a butane torch for gradually it to 3 solid minutes of flame with rotating shaft every 10 second or so.

 

I also have tried a heat gun on it with 10 minutes of heat getting the head above 200F and it's still no movement at all. Anyone have any suggestions on different method or any chemicals to help release it.

 

Using MyGolfSpy mobile app

 

 

 

I use MAP gas and it’s the yellow bottle at Home Depot. Pulls heads super fast.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just pick up this shaft extractor off eBay for $28 shipped... used it today and worked awesome. This was a graphite shaft in a kids club I wanted to test before working on my friends high end shafts as I’ve overheated a few of my own.

it uses a strong compressed spring to push the head off once the epoxy is soft enough, per the maker it has ~102 pounds of fully compressed. took about 40 seconds.

cant beat the price

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Golf-Club-Shaft-Extractor-Puller-More-Powerful-Model/283805474994?hash=item42141fe0b2:g:nycAAOxyqUpQ6OO7

81D0CF09-60AF-47D2-96C1-EE77B5C8068C.thumb.jpeg.7d0d61b28b97e06703c14393051c9bbc.jpeg 


 

 

F51BA410-F2DB-4D74-87E9-8B0AE86A3B92.jpeg.25bb7f0ed882f07c72ca685afa0441e8.jpeg

What's in my  :cleveland-small: bag:

Driver :  :cobra-small: F9 10.5, Fujikura Speeder 757 TR 

Fairway  :cobra-small: F9 15.5° Aldila Rogue White 80X

Hybrid:  :cobra-small: King F7 18° KBS Tour PROTO Hybrid 95 S+

Irons:   :srixon-small: z585 4i - 6i,  z785 7i-PW, Nippon Modus 120X

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: CBX  50.11, 55.11, 60.10  TT DG S400 Black

Putter:  post-53756-150768041262.jpg Honey Badger 34" 

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Make sure ALL the epoxied surface are heat up !

Often neglected spots are (1) bottom of the hosel bore (2) close to the top hosel opening .  Even if there is only a very small area not heated up properly, the epoxy will hold the shaft in place for pulling.

People usually have difficulty extracting shafts because one small area is not heated enough to break down the epoxy.  Of course, if used a non-shafting epoxy with higher break down temperature would be a huge issue.

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Make sure ALL the epoxied surface are heat up !
Often neglected spots are (1) bottom of the hosel bore (2) close to the top hosel opening .  Even if there is only a very small area not heated up properly, the epoxy will hold the shaft in place for pulling.
People usually have difficulty extracting shafts because one small area is not heated enough to break down the epoxy.  Of course, if used a non-shafting epoxy with higher break down temperature would be a huge issue.
I think this was part of the problem I had when I used the head gun I think I may have missed some spots or it was cooking too quickly as I was heating another area.

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Driver:  Ben Hogan GS53
4W:  Maltby KE4 
2i: Maltby KE4 FDI 
4-PW:  Maltby TS-1 - C-Taper 120g 
50,54,58: Maltby TSW

Putter:  L.A.B. DF2.1 Accra Shaft 2023 Forum Testers - L.A.B. Putters
Ball: Mixed prefer ProV1 or Snell
Handicap: 9.2  -  Best Score: 72 (E) Springdale CC, Canton NC -2022

2020 Forum Tester - Ben Hogan GS53 Driver

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What's in my  :cleveland-small: bag:

Driver :  :cobra-small: F9 10.5, Fujikura Speeder 757 TR 

Fairway  :cobra-small: F9 15.5° Aldila Rogue White 80X

Hybrid:  :cobra-small: King F7 18° KBS Tour PROTO Hybrid 95 S+

Irons:   :srixon-small: z585 4i - 6i,  z785 7i-PW, Nippon Modus 120X

Wedges:  :cleveland-small: CBX  50.11, 55.11, 60.10  TT DG S400 Black

Putter:  post-53756-150768041262.jpg Honey Badger 34" 

Ball:  :srixon-small: Q-Star Tour

 

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8 hours ago, pozzit said:

I think this was part of the problem I had when I used the head gun I think I may have missed some spots or it was cooking too quickly as I was heating another area.

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Yeah, happen to me still when I try to save the ferrule, often the spot on top of the hosel next to the ferrule position needs patience.  Even after I warm up the ferrule and pushed it up slightly and wrap it with moisture, still difficult to give it enough heat to soften the epoxy.  Cut off the ferrule to expose the top of the hosel will be the easiest way.  

Also remembered at one time there was a batch of shafting epoxy with higher break down point.  Maybe 10-12 years ago, there was a batch everyone was using which needed more heating time to breakdown the epoxy.  Anyway. you did the right thing, heating the hosel up and give it a little time for the heat to expand into the interior of the hosel , reheat let rest a minute and repeat several times to break down the tough epoxy.

A two step process for my own use is to heat up the hosel with propane heater then a mini torch for the bottom and the top of the hosel, when the epoxy broken down, quickly reheat the whole hosel ( adapter ) with propane torch then proceed to extract the shaft.

I still like to use extractor for steel shafts, done it with leather gloves and twisting out the shaft by hands but, learned that some shaft with softer tips will deform slightly when using this method when not pulling the shaft out in a linear line.  Which is hard to do with free hands.  If anyone wonders why the tip of the steel shaft is bent slightly, this might be one of the possible cause.

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2 hours ago, release said:

Yeah, happen to me still when I try to save the ferrule, often the spot on top of the hosel next to the ferrule position needs patience.  Even after I warm up the ferrule and pushed it up slightly and wrap it with moisture, still difficult to give it enough heat to soften the epoxy.  Cut off the ferrule to expose the top of the hosel will be the easiest way.  

Also remembered at one time there was a batch of shafting epoxy with higher break down point.  Maybe 10-12 years ago, there was a batch everyone was using which needed more heating time to breakdown the epoxy.  Anyway. you did the right thing, heating the hosel up and give it a little time for the heat to expand into the interior of the hosel , reheat let rest a minute and repeat several times to break down the tough epoxy.

A two step process for my own use is to heat up the hosel with propane heater then a mini torch for the bottom and the top of the hosel, when the epoxy broken down, quickly reheat the whole hosel ( adapter ) with propane torch then proceed to extract the shaft.

I still like to use extractor for steel shafts, done it with leather gloves and twisting out the shaft by hands but, learned that some shaft with softer tips will deform slightly when using this method when not pulling the shaft out in a linear line.  Which is hard to do with free hands.  If anyone wonders why the tip of the steel shaft is bent slightly, this might be one of the possible cause.

That's interesting about the batch of epoxy being harder to break down.   I never thought of that.

And I have suffered with the bent shaft tip issue, but I always thought it was from hitting balls off of hard range mats.  

I usually skipped using the shaft puller on steel shaft pulls out of convenience, but not anymore.

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13 hours ago, SlowNLow said:

That's interesting about the batch of epoxy being harder to break down.   I never thought of that.

And I have suffered with the bent shaft tip issue, but I always thought it was from hitting balls off of hard range mats.  

I usually skipped using the shaft puller on steel shaft pulls out of convenience, but not anymore.

Yes, the steel shaft would bent right at the hosel top if pounding thousands of range balls off the matt+cement floor.  I had a set of Ben Hogan from the 70's through the 80's pounding hundreds of range ball a day through many Winter says and that set had a slight bent right where the tip meets the hosel end.   Noticed the slightly bent tips when I pulled the shaft 3 decades later.  If you notice the bent angle are all uniformed to one direction and more pronounced in the short irons.... then most likely it was caused by hitting range balls off a hard surface.

I was just suggesting that it could be one of the cause of a bent shaft tip since when the metal is heated up would be more pliable to the twisting and angled contact when extracting with hands.   Nothing wrong with using hands to extract the steel shaft.  Just that I , myself could not get a linear pull of the shaft.  I assume if you secure the head in a vice, you can extract the steel shaft by pulling it out in a straight line.

Also, I had been dealing with a lot of the modern steel shafts, Not sure if the thin wall construction to save weight or maybe the softer metal material composite to gain more feel had anything to do with more bent shaft tips these days.   Ben Hogan iron set used one of the earliest light weight shaft in the days and that could have something to do with the bent shaft tips.

 

Edited by release
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5 hours ago, release said:

Yes, the steel shaft would bent right at the hosel top if pounding thousands of range balls off the matt+cement floor.  I had a set of Ben Hogan from the 70's through the 80's pounding hundreds of range ball a day through many Winter says and that set had a slight bent right where the tip meets the hosel end.   Noticed the slightly bent tips when I pulled the shaft 3 decades later.  If you notice the bent angle are all uniformed to one direction and more pronounced in the short irons.... then most likely it was caused by hitting range balls off a hard surface.

I was just suggesting that it could be one of the cause of a bent shaft tip since when the metal is heated up would be more pliable to the twisting and angled contact when extracting with hands.   Nothing wrong with using hands to extract the steel shaft.  Just that I , myself could not get a linear pull of the shaft.  I assume if you secure the head in a vice, you can extract the steel shaft by pulling it out in a straight line.

Also, I had been dealing with a lot of the modern steel shafts, Not sure if the thin wall construction to save weight or maybe the softer metal material composite to gain more feel had anything to do with more bent shaft tips these days.   Ben Hogan iron set used one of the earliest light weight shaft in the days and that could have something to do with the bent shaft tips.

 

Ah, and a symptom of this bending of shaft tip is the dreaded "ferrule creep"?

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3 hours ago, SlowNLow said:

Ah, and a symptom of this bending of shaft tip is the dreaded "ferrule creep"?

 Very possibly, especially if not enough epoxy was applied when slipped on the ferrule.

  There is no way the ferrule can be flush with the hosel if the shaft is bent.

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If too much epoxy is used it can be very difficult to quickly pull a head. Anyone looking to build or work on clubs has to get a shaft puller. I have a hydraulic puller and its been used weekly for the past 15 years.
I don't buy the strong batch of epoxy line. More than likely its too much epoxy use. JPEG_20200512_084730_457843647345070440.jpg

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using the butane torch about 20 sec on three sides.

Give it s a few seconds and repeat then try to twist off.

sometimes the taper tips can be logged in the hosel. Makes for a secure fit but a real pain to remove.

if they are 370s. and you glues the ferrule in also and have not moved it first it could be an anchor to removing the head.

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On 5/12/2020 at 8:49 AM, Popeye64 said:

If too much epoxy is used it can be very difficult to quickly pull a head. Anyone looking to build or work on clubs has to get a shaft puller. I have a hydraulic puller and its been used weekly for the past 15 years.
I don't buy the strong batch of epoxy line. More than likely its too much epoxy use. JPEG_20200512_084730_457843647345070440.jpg

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Completely agree.  I purchased this one several years back.  I was balking at spending $100 for a long time.  After I got it I wished that I had done it years earlier.  The one below is a newer model than I have, but same seller. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLF-CLUB-SHAFT-PULLER-EXTRACTOR-FOR-STEEL-GRAPHITE-SHAFTS/164138371857?hash=item263768cb11:g:11wAAOSwZdZdQ6~m

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:callaway-small:XR 4, 5 hybrids
:titleist-small:2021 T300 6 - GW, SW irons
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  • 3 weeks later...

I use a cheap creme brulee butane torch. 10s heat in the middle of the hosel, then rotate 120° and give it another 10s, then rotate 120° again and a final 10. Don't move the flame or rotate while applying heat, you need to put the heat into the metal not evenly heat the metal's surface. After 30s it should twist right off.

If you're ever in a pinch and don't care about lighting a ferrule cap on fire or dripping molten burning plastic onto other flammable substances you can do the same procedure on a gas burner oven. When I was first starting that's how I did it. When the hosel was hot I'd wrap it in a towel, step on the head, then twist the shaft out. That works great too, just be careful not to overdo it with the heat or, you know, burn your house down... 

Edited by Grit Golf

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