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7 hours ago, MmmmmmBuddy said:

Heard from Ari lately?  I haven't seen him since the team from Scratch up and moved production to Tennessee. We used to see a fair bit of the boys out here. Jeff and Ari, Eggling... Miss those guys.

I have never met him face to face. Talked to him via phone about that machine a couple of times. He is over on WRX from time to time. He actually had 2 of those machines and when he closed Scratch down Ryan Moore bought one of them. He did offer me the other one for a good price but I did not have the room for it so I declined. I know for a while he quoted himself as "a free agent club ho" but now I think he is involved with National Golf which made those irons for Patrick Reed

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Driver Homna  G1- X Stock Homna Regular shaft

4 wood Adams Tight Lies 

20* Hybrid Adams Boxer Ozik Matrix R shaft

24* Hybrid Adams A 10-OS Pro Launch Red R

Irons 5 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW- Macgregor LRA 56* S-400

Putter 1997 Santa Fe rusty as heck

 

 

 

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On 3/30/2020 at 6:16 AM, Calvo90 said:

Just another advice when using pipe cutter: When you decide to cut the shaft, insert another junk shaft into the shaft you intend to cut to support it from the inside. It can be steel or graphite, it doesn't matter. Especially light-weight shafts tend to ''oval'' if you putt a little bit too much of a sqeeze on them and you can end up with inprecise cut because the pipe cutter wandered off the desired line. The additional support prevents the shaft from ovaling and makes the whole process pretty much without any risk.

I spent about $100 on a Dewalt chop saw from Lowe’s and it’s cut my shaft cutting on all materials in half and improved the accuracy of the cuts. I wish I had made that purchase sooner. 

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1 hour ago, awcarlisle01 said:

I spent about $100 on a Dewalt chop saw from Lowe’s and it’s cut my shaft cutting on all materials in half and improved the accuracy of the cuts. I wish I had made that purchase sooner. 

Chop saw is the best for cutting shafts, especially when you are dealing with high volumes. No argument here. You can end up with a little rugged edge but that can be sorted in 30 seconds max.

Unfortunately I am doing way too little cutting to justify buying 100 USD saw. For me 11 USD pipe cutter, which can reliably and precisely cut any steel shaft I want and virtually doesn't take any space in my already minimal work space, is the perfect tool.

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Driver: :titelist-small: TS2, 9,5°, Fujikura Ventus Blue 6S

Fairway::taylormade-small: M5 15°, Fujikura Ventus Red 7S

Hybrids: :titelist-small: 818 H1 (19°) Tensei CK White 90S, :titelist-small: 818 H1 (21°) Tensei CK White 90S

Irons: :srixon-small: Z565, 5-A, Nippon Modus 105S,

Wedges: :cleveland-small: RTX-3, 56°/11°, 62°/8°, Nippon Modus 115 Wedge

Putter: :cleveland-small: TFI 2135 8.0, 35''

Waiting for their chance to shine:

:srixon-small: Z U65, 3 iron (20°), Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro White Hybrid 90S; 

:srixon-small: Z U65, 4 iron (23°); Nippon Modus 105S

:srixon-small: Z565 4 iron; Nippon Modus 105S

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On 3/30/2020 at 5:16 AM, Calvo90 said:

Just another advice when using pipe cutter: When you decide to cut the shaft, insert another junk shaft into the shaft you intend to cut to support it from the inside. It can be steel or graphite, it doesn't matter. Especially light-weight shafts tend to ''oval'' if you putt a little bit too much of a sqeeze on them and you can end up with inprecise cut because the pipe cutter wandered off the desired line. The additional support prevents the shaft from ovaling and makes the whole process pretty much without any risk.

That is a great tip - thanks!

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On 3/28/2020 at 5:41 PM, Live Free Golf MA said:

Hi All! 

I'm just recently getting back into my club repair/building.  Went to school and took some classes on this back in the day, the only thing I am missing in my set up at the moment that i think would really benefit me would be a Mitchell type machine for bending loft/lie.

Is there a solid option out there that isn't going to cost me $1,000+.  I'm not yet planning on doing this for a ton of other people, so the investment wouldnt be worth it at the moment. I will bite the bullet eventually since it's something i would love to get back into as a part time gig. 

Right now in my makeshift shop I have mostly golf works equipment:

  • Grip station (Vice mounted)
  • Shaft extractor (Vice mounted) 
  • 1" x 30" belt sander 
  • Bench top small chop saw
  • 8" grinder wheel (new purchase, still not sure exactly what buffing/grinding wheels to get) 
  • PLUS all the extra smaller tools needed to remove grips & do the small stuff

Any other recommendations would be awesome! Thanks! 

Thank you!

My Mitchell Steelclub is a factory refurb... got it directly from Mitchell.  You may have to call to inquire, as I don't think they advertise their factory refurb units.  It would be worth the effort... saved me a ton!  Skip the stand, and just bolt it to your bench.  However, DO NOT skip the Mitchell bending bar! 

If you dip your toe into the loft/lie pool, you will want a gauge to measure both, as the actual bending apparatus is not entirely accurate in its measurements.  This is more than adequate:  https://www.golfworks.com/value-line-golf-club-measuring-gauge/p/hgcg/

Another item not on your list is a club ruler.  There are several DIY versions that will get the job done, but this is probably the "industry standard":

https://www.mitchellgolf.com/shop/repair-tools/clublength-measuring-tools/clublength-ruler-measuring-tool/

I have found a cheap digital kitchen scale to be one of the most useful tools on my bench.  Among 1,000 other uses, it makes mixing 50-50 epoxy in small quantities is a breeze.

Have fun!

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I have an old scotland. Full club and a half off now with the lofts..

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Family , golf , fitness , tournaments, and yes work. Golf junky.  

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I am working on my home shop as well. I am building a work bench now. Then my fist purchase would be a vice to make a regripping section. Then items to stamp clubs. once I get that then I will get brave and learn more I will buy more equipment.


Driver: Titleist Titanium 983K, 10.5, Aldial Green 85-X

FW: Nike Covert VRS 2.0, 15, Kuro Kage 70G

Hybrid: Adams A4 3H, 18,  Rayon Javlnfx h80

Iron: JPX 900 Forged 4-5 JPX 900 Tour 6-PW, Project X 5.5

Wedges:SM7 50 F Grind, 54 S Grind, 60 D Grind

Putter:  Odyssey White Hot 9, Superstroke Flatso 1.0 grip

Ball: Titleist Prov1x

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On 4/7/2020 at 6:29 AM, awcarlisle01 said:

I spent about $100 on a Dewalt chop saw from Lowe’s and it’s cut my shaft cutting on all materials in half and improved the accuracy of the cuts. I wish I had made that purchase sooner. 

Next time go to harbor freight.  $40 or less for a small chop saw.  Graphite and steel bits are tough on motors.  Plus, this thing is like the size of tissue box.  

 

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If you are doing this as a hobby and for the love of it you may want to consider other company,

Mitchell is a top notch consideration but a golf mechanix, golf works  model might be better suited to your needs.

I would also consider a double end motor and put a  few different wheels on it for finishing or a frequency machine

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Driver - 44.5" 5.0 flex 10.5 deg ACCRA tour Z GP MCC4+ 1 deg closed

Irons - 5-pw, GW stnd length 5.0 flex same grip 1 deg flat. Type low medium offset cavity back, no diggers

Wedges - 56 and 60 tour grind wedge spinner and mcc4+ grip 2 flat 10 and 8 in bounce

Putter - 33" 3 deg loft 70 lie, lrg slight line slightly toe hang

Ball - truvis

Carried in a Sun Mountain C-130 USA bag - BE PROUD.

HC - LH but 85 is a good number, playing in Ohio.

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On 4/27/2020 at 9:43 PM, tjyorke said:

I have an old scotland. Full club and a half off now with the lofts..

WOW something is seriously bent or out of whack--- If I could physically get my hands on it I bet I could calibrate it


Driver Homna  G1- X Stock Homna Regular shaft

4 wood Adams Tight Lies 

20* Hybrid Adams Boxer Ozik Matrix R shaft

24* Hybrid Adams A 10-OS Pro Launch Red R

Irons 5 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW- Macgregor LRA 56* S-400

Putter 1997 Santa Fe rusty as heck

 

 

 

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On 5/9/2020 at 5:37 PM, edteergolf said:

Next time go to harbor freight.  $40 or less for a small chop saw.  Graphite and steel bits are tough on motors.  Plus, this thing is like the size of tissue box.  

 

Believe it or not I use a hand held Dewalt 4 1/2 inch hand held grinder with a cut off wheel. But in our old shop which was high volume we used a chop saw. And you are correct if you do a bunch of graphite shafts the graphite dust will short out a motor over time. On our second chop saw we used a sock type air filter like they run on injectors on a sprint car or racing go cart. If it was used a lot we took it off and outside and blew it out

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Driver Homna  G1- X Stock Homna Regular shaft

4 wood Adams Tight Lies 

20* Hybrid Adams Boxer Ozik Matrix R shaft

24* Hybrid Adams A 10-OS Pro Launch Red R

Irons 5 thru PW 1980 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

SW- Macgregor LRA 56* S-400

Putter 1997 Santa Fe rusty as heck

 

 

 

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After looking around my local Craigslist for a long time, I purchased this new saw from Amazon for $75.  I've been very happy with it.  It's only for personal use, though.  I cut about 20 clubs a year max.

 Lion Tools J1G-KE2-160 Toolman Cut-off Saw/Machine 6" 6.5A 7/8" Arbor 45 degree adjustable fence works with DeWalt Makita Ryobi Bosch Skill Accessorie


Driver:  :ping-small: G410 Plus, VA Vylyn 75 Four
Woods: :cobra-small:F8 3 wood
Hybrids: :cobra-small:F8 17*, :callaway-small: XR 22*, 25*
Irons: PXG 0211 6 - GW
Wedges::ping-small: Glide 2.0 Stealth 54/14, Zing LW
Putter:  :ping-small: Sigma G Craz-E

Leupold GX-4i3

Penalty Box: :EVNROLL:ER7, :ping-small: G25 irons

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I have the golfworks economy loft lie and it works great for my needs. I caught it on a sale.

I got sick of 5 day turnarounds at my local shop to have someone else bend them. I can also be a bit picky w the requests, and I play w stuff alot. I wasn't as concerned about getting my money out of it as I was seeing value in having more control over my equipment. It's a top 5 favorite investment in golf for me.

Only downside to the golfworks model is the economy bending bar can leave impressions in hosels if you really move some metal. It also needs to be bolted to an incredibly sturdy surface. Deck screws into a 2x8" is not enough.

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“He’s a Cinderella story. A former assistant groundskeeper about to become the Masters champion. It looks like a mirac… It’s in the hole! It’s in the hole! It’s in the hole!” — Carl Spackler

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