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Iron Build - Lil' help, please


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I recently took possession of a set of Mizuno JPX825 Pro's in very good condition. I love the way they look, sound at impact, and perform. They keep up with my JPX919 Pros (although a bit less forgiving when I'm less than perfect). They were my father's clubs, so there is that whole side of it as well. I want to use them as a travel/back-up set.

Here is where I need some guidance (or perhaps an intervention):

He played them 3* flat and 1/2" short on Project X Graphite 4.5. I need them 1* flat and +1/2", so changes needed to be made.

My first thought was to reshaft. I found a set of new old-stock Project X Graphite in 5.5 (same vintage as Mizuno's stock offering at the time), and built them up to my specs. What I came up with felt like Thor's Hammer.

6i SW is D6, with a static weight of 405g. I can back-weight, and get to D3 with no trouble, but the static weight is 420g. It feels like a war club.

In comparison, my Fli-Hi Forged 5i is also +1/2", and built on a similar Project X Graphite in 6.0 (3i shaft soft stepped twice - it was the only way to get a similar shaft without spending way more than I was willing to spend). It comes in at D3, and static weight is 393g.

So... what are my options? Play them as is, and embrace D6?  Back-weight, and embrace Thor's Hammer?  Reshaft with something other than the Project X?  Punt?

I appreciate your input - Thanks!

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Understandable.  The 825 head may be a little heavier than your 919.  If you made the clubs to +1/2" to your 919 standard, that's +3/4" over the 825 standard.  As for what to do about it... ?

My Bridgestone 6i with a steel shaft is D1 and 400g static weight.  I just reshafted the 5i with a Paderson 3i graphite shaft (soft-stepped twice) -1/2" and it came in at D4 and a static weight of 395g.  Now I have to get the lie angle adjusted, but I don't have a machine and our only golf store  that does is closed for COVID-19.  I like the D4 SW and hit the 5i better than I hit my 6i.  Probably will reshaft them all.

We don’t stop playing the game because we get old; we get old because we stop playing the game.”

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Are the grips the same weight?

Driver:  :ping-small: G400 Max 9* w/ KBS Tour Driven
Fairway: :titelist-small: TS3 15*  w/Project X Hzardous Smoke
Hybrids:  :titelist-small: 915H 21* w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype
                :titelist-small: 915H  24*  w/KBS Tour Graphite Hybrid Prototype        
Irons:      :honma:TR20V 6-11 w/Vizard TR20-85 Graphite
Wedge:  :titleist-small: 54/12D, 60/8M w/:Accra iWedge 90 Graphite
Putter:   Sacks Parente MC 3 Stripe

Backup Putters:  :odyssey-small: Milled Collection RSX 2, :seemore-small: mFGP2, :cameron-small: Futura 5W, :taylormade-small:TM-180

Member:  MGS Hitsquad since 2017697979773_DSCN2368(Custom).JPG.a1a25f5e430d9eebae93c5d652cbd4b9.JPG

 

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I'm not a mizzy expert, but I believe most mizzy irons came in two different weight heads.  The standard head and then a B weight head that is lighter to allow for normal swing weights in over length builds.  I'm guessing since his were short you have standard weight heads and if you build them over length you are going to see higher SW's.

With a 1" change in length you're going to pick up around 6 SW pts.  2 degrees on the lie angle will also be about 1/2 SW pt.  Then not sure if those shafts are the same weight, or if the grips are the same weight but you are talking quite a big change.

When it comes to lightening swing weight there aren't a ton of options.  Counter balance like you already mentioned or play them as is.  It's possible you could ream out inside of the hosel, but use a smaller diameter bit so you leave a shelf for the shaft to rest on in the normal install depth.  But I have no idea how much weight you could safely remove or what it would do to the playability of the clubs.

Or try shortening them a half inch and that should come up to about D3.  Or sell them and try to find some B weight heads of the same thing.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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22 hours ago, Saluki91 said:

I recently took possession of a set of Mizuno JPX825 Pro's in very good condition. I love the way they look, sound at impact, and perform. They keep up with my JPX919 Pros (although a bit less forgiving when I'm less than perfect). They were my father's clubs, so there is that whole side of it as well. I want to use them as a travel/back-up set.

Here is where I need some guidance (or perhaps an intervention):

He played them 3* flat and 1/2" short on Project X Graphite 4.5. I need them 1* flat and +1/2", so changes needed to be made.

My first thought was to reshaft. I found a set of new old-stock Project X Graphite in 5.5 (same vintage as Mizuno's stock offering at the time), and built them up to my specs. What I came up with felt like Thor's Hammer.

6i SW is D6, with a static weight of 405g. I can back-weight, and get to D3 with no trouble, but the static weight is 420g. It feels like a war club.

In comparison, my Fli-Hi Forged 5i is also +1/2", and built on a similar Project X Graphite in 6.0 (3i shaft soft stepped twice - it was the only way to get a similar shaft without spending way more than I was willing to spend). It comes in at D3, and static weight is 393g.

So... what are my options? Play them as is, and embrace D6?  Back-weight, and embrace Thor's Hammer?  Reshaft with something other than the Project X?  Punt?

I appreciate your input - Thanks!

You really don't have many options. If you want to make the clubs lower swing weight, you will either have to shorten them, lighten the heads (unlikely based on the head design and I would not recommend) or counterbalance them. 

What kind of grips are you using? Assuming you have standard size 50 gram grips, you can switch them for heavier and beefier grips. Something like 67g midsize MCC PLUS4 ALIGN (-3,5 swing weight points)or midsize white 65g Golf Pride Tour Wrap (-3 swing weight points). In standard size the heaviest grip I could find are standard 59g Lamkin Performance Plus with 3GEN Standard White (-2 swing weight points). Some people don't like this method because it is just a scale measurement that does not necessarily translate into feeling in the hands.

I hope this helps.

:ping-small:  G425 MAX, 10,5°, Fujikura Ventus Blue 60S

:taylormade-small: Stealth Plus 10,5°, Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS, 60S

:taylormade-small: The Original One Mini Driver, 13,5°,  Fujikura Ventus Red 70S

:ping-small: G425 MAX 5 wood, 7 wood, Tensei AV Orange 75R

:srixon-small: Z U65 4, Z565 5-6, Z765 7-8 , Z965 9-PW, Project X 5.5,

:ping-small: Glide 4.0, 52°, Z-115, 58°, Z-115

:EVNROLL: ER5, 34'', Gravity Grip

 

 

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Counterbalancing only does so much - in effect, you are adding even more dead weight to the overall club that increases the heft you have to transfer - the swing weight scale doesn't have to swing a club - you do.

As stated the previous build at -1/2" probably had heavier heads and maybe additional weighting as well to get to Mizuno target swing weight of around D2. Going an extra inch with the same weighted heads is going to be quite a jump in SW - around D6, so they will feel quite heavy as you have already noted. It doesn't really leave you with many options - I always maintain that head modification should always be the last resort - my advice would be to cut your losses and build them at standard length and sell them on.

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On 4/22/2020 at 9:07 AM, Calvo90 said:

You really don't have many options. If you want to make the clubs lower swing weight, you will either have to shorten them, lighten the heads (unlikely based on the head design and I would not recommend) or counterbalance them. 

What kind of grips are you using? Assuming you have standard size 50 gram grips, you can switch them for heavier and beefier grips. Something like 67g midsize MCC PLUS4 ALIGN (-3,5 swing weight points)or midsize white 65g Golf Pride Tour Wrap (-3 swing weight points). In standard size the heaviest grip I could find are standard 59g Lamkin Performance Plus with 3GEN Standard White (-2 swing weight points). Some people don't like this method because it is just a scale measurement that does not necessarily translate into feeling in the hands.

I hope this helps.

Thanks.

I ended up trimming the extra 1/2" off, and will play them at standard length... at least until my back reminds me that +1/2" is a better idea.  Then I'll have a "reason" for reshafting.

...but I don't have a problem  I can stop any time I want.  ; - )

 

 

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5 hours ago, Saluki91 said:

...but I don't have a problem  I can stop any time I want.  ; - )

I see we have a common thing... :D

:ping-small:  G425 MAX, 10,5°, Fujikura Ventus Blue 60S

:taylormade-small: Stealth Plus 10,5°, Fujikura Pro 2.0 TS, 60S

:taylormade-small: The Original One Mini Driver, 13,5°,  Fujikura Ventus Red 70S

:ping-small: G425 MAX 5 wood, 7 wood, Tensei AV Orange 75R

:srixon-small: Z U65 4, Z565 5-6, Z765 7-8 , Z965 9-PW, Project X 5.5,

:ping-small: Glide 4.0, 52°, Z-115, 58°, Z-115

:EVNROLL: ER5, 34'', Gravity Grip

 

 

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