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Ferrule Creep...Why?


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Maybe a newbie question, I apologize.

This is my Callaway XR16 3-wood. I love the club and generally hit it very well, but three times now I've had the ferrule "fixed"...it keeps creeping up the shaft.  A number of questions, mostly why does this happen, and does this indicate the head is not stable?  The head does not appear in any way loose or open.  I won't say I center it every time, but I definitely don't hit the big ball before the little ball, and I miss to the toe not the heel when I do miss.

I know it probably doesn't impact performance (right?) but it aggravates the hell out of me just looking at it.  If it does impact performance, tell me so I can justify going to get a new one!  Ha ha…

Thanks.

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Driver:  :honma:TR20 460, Ventus Blue 6 S, 65g Stiff

FW:  :tour-edge: CBX 119 3w, 15,  Project X Evenflow Blue 65g Stiff

Hybrids:  :callaway-small: Apex Pro 3H, Mitsubishi MMT 80g Stiff

                :taylormade-small: SIM DHY 4H, Diamana Limited Hybrid 75g Stiff

Iron: :mizuno-small:JPX 919 Forged 5-GW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff

Wedges: :vokey-small:SM8 54 S Grind, 60 M Grind

Putter: :EVNROLL:ER7B 

Ball: :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Tested the Honma TR20 460 driver

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... The outside of the shaft and the inside of the ferrule are basically slick surfaces. To make sure a ferrule does not creep, you need to abrade the shaft and the inside of the ferrule. To be honest most ferrules do not need the additional abrading but all shafts do. Especially steel shafts. Although it will not effect performance, the ferrule provides a cushion when the shaft flexes and you want a little extra support from that ferrule so the top of the hosel does nor rub against the shaft and eventually cause it to break. For steel shafts, it is almost purely cosmetic.  

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max 10.5* ... Diamana Ltd 60R
Fairway:  TaylorMade SIM2 Max 15* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
                 TaylorMade SIM2 Max 18* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
Utility:   TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Ltd 65R
              Taylor Made Sim Hybrid 22* ... Diamana Ltd 75R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Steelfiber 95R
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Steelfiber 95R
                 TaylorMade MG3 58* LB ... Steelfiber 95R
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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18 minutes ago, chisag said:

... The outside of the shaft and the inside of the ferrule are basically slick surfaces. To make sure a ferrule does not creep, you need to abrade the shaft and the inside of the ferrule. To be honest most ferrules do not need the additional abrading but all shafts do. Especially steel shafts. Although it will not effect performance, the ferrule provides a cushion when the shaft flexes and you want a little extra support from that ferrule so the top of the hosel does nor rub against the shaft and eventually cause it to break. For steel shafts, it is almost purely cosmetic.  

Thanks.  So, the only enduring fix is to remove the shaft, remove the ferrule, abrade the shaft and the inside of a new ferrule and re-install?  Starting to think maybe I should just get fit for a new 3-wood...seems like the juice may not be worth squeeze...

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Driver:  :honma:TR20 460, Ventus Blue 6 S, 65g Stiff

FW:  :tour-edge: CBX 119 3w, 15,  Project X Evenflow Blue 65g Stiff

Hybrids:  :callaway-small: Apex Pro 3H, Mitsubishi MMT 80g Stiff

                :taylormade-small: SIM DHY 4H, Diamana Limited Hybrid 75g Stiff

Iron: :mizuno-small:JPX 919 Forged 5-GW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff

Wedges: :vokey-small:SM8 54 S Grind, 60 M Grind

Putter: :EVNROLL:ER7B 

Ball: :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Tested the Honma TR20 460 driver

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42 minutes ago, AFGolfer said:

Thanks.  So, the only enduring fix is to remove the shaft, remove the ferrule, abrade the shaft and the inside of a new ferrule and re-install?  Starting to think maybe I should just get fit for a new 3-wood...seems like the juice may not be worth squeeze...

No need to pull the shaft - just gently heat the ferrule with a hair dryer or steam from a kettle to soften it up a bit. Slide it back in place and glue it in place with a small dab of epoxy or even super glue. It won't creep back in a hurry - even if it eventually does, just repeat. To avoid creep in the first place, try not to store clubs in direct heat of the sun or in the trunk of your car on a hot day. Don't use hot water to wash clubs on a regular basis either. Remember, OEM fitments are made with the least amount of attention to detail so they tend to be the biggest culprits of ferrule creep for the lack of rigorous QC. But pulling the shaft to prove a point - a little extreme given the benign nature of what is essentially an aesthetic.

Edited by jaskanski
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... Jaskanski is an expert in this field so his advice is always good. Personally I would raise the ferrule and if it isn't already, abrade the shaft just a little so the dab of epoxy can take hold. As Jas said, no need to remove the shaft. 

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Driver:   TaylorMade SIM2 Max 10.5* ... Diamana Ltd 60R
Fairway:  TaylorMade SIM2 Max 15* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
                 TaylorMade SIM2 Max 18* ... Tensei Raw Blue 65R
Utility:   TaylorMade DHy 19* ... Diamana Ltd 65R
              Taylor Made Sim Hybrid 22* ... Diamana Ltd 75R
Irons:    4-Pw Cobra King Tour MIM ... Steelfiber 95R
Wedges:  Cobra Snakebite 50* ... Steelfiber 95R
                 TaylorMade MG3 58* LB ... Steelfiber 95R
Putter:  Cleveland Hunting Beach Soft 11S 33.5"
Ball:      TaylorMade TP5x (2021)

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Thanks all.  I was actually kind of hoping you'd all tell me the head is about to fly off at any time so I could show the wife and say "See, time for a new club!"  Ha ha...

But, this works too.  And a good fit with a 3-wood isn't necessarily easy to come by,

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Driver:  :honma:TR20 460, Ventus Blue 6 S, 65g Stiff

FW:  :tour-edge: CBX 119 3w, 15,  Project X Evenflow Blue 65g Stiff

Hybrids:  :callaway-small: Apex Pro 3H, Mitsubishi MMT 80g Stiff

                :taylormade-small: SIM DHY 4H, Diamana Limited Hybrid 75g Stiff

Iron: :mizuno-small:JPX 919 Forged 5-GW, Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff

Wedges: :vokey-small:SM8 54 S Grind, 60 M Grind

Putter: :EVNROLL:ER7B 

Ball: :titelist-small: Pro V1X

Tested the Honma TR20 460 driver

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Thanks for the post! I have the same exact problem with my XR16 3 wood. I’ve noticed it creeping out for a few months now. Good information to have.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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5 hours ago, AFGolfer said:

Thanks all.  I was actually kind of hoping you'd all tell me the head is about to fly off at any time so I could show the wife and say "See, time for a new club!"  Ha ha...

But, this works too.  And a good fit with a 3-wood isn't necessarily easy to come by,

If the ferrule creeped up when you first installed the shaft, then. it needs to be reinstalled ( cause should be shaft pushed up from the air pressure created by either a blockage in the tip with old epoxy or the butt end of the shaft with grip tape/ grip preventing the air from escaping the hosel when inserting the shaft ).

If this happened after the epoxy cured properly and creeped up during the play; then, it could be because of several possibilities.

If the ferrule was loosely fitted ( too large an I.D. to the shaft O.D. , could also cause by over prepped shaft tip to a smaller size ) + not enough epoxy to secure the ferrule in place.  During the impact there be micro shock waves which will flex the tip and the ferrule to cause movement.

Callaway also has conned hosel rim,  Which will be best fitted with collared ferrule which will reduce the micro movement between the shaft/hosel during impact.  Next possibility is to try a different epoxy.

The advice of not storing your golf clubs in  places which will soften the plastic is often overlooked.   Storing golf clubs in the back of trunk under the Summer heat will not only speed up aging of all the plastic/rubber parts, it'll soften the parts.  The soften plastic ferrule put in use, the shock wave of the impact caused the miro flex between the hosel/shaft/ferrule will make the ferrule crawl up the shaft.

I like to file open a tight ferrule for better fit instead of using a loosely fitted ferrule to start with.   A few of the ferrule supply source offering different length with choice of OD and ID sizes for a better fit,  Minimized the cosmetic fix after installing.

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On 4/28/2020 at 1:05 PM, jaskanski said:

No need to pull the shaft - just gently heat the ferrule with a hair dryer or steam from a kettle to soften it up a bit. Slide it back in place and glue it in place with a small dab of epoxy or even super glue. It won't creep back in a hurry - even if it eventually does, just repeat. To avoid creep in the first place, try not to store clubs in direct heat of the sun or in the trunk of your car on a hot day. Don't use hot water to wash clubs on a regular basis either. Remember, OEM fitments are made with the least amount of attention to detail so they tend to be the biggest culprits of ferrule creep for the lack of rigorous QC. But pulling the shaft to prove a point - a little extreme given the benign nature of what is essentially an aesthetic.

 

Yeah, this. Just drop a touch of epoxy and pull it down. 

Driver: SIM 9 Motore X F1 7X tipped 1 inch

Utility Iron: Cobra King Utility irons 18 degree Aldila rogue 90 X

Irons: Cobra King forged CB 4-PW KBS $ Taper 130 X

Wedges: Cleveland 49,52.58.64

Putter: Kronos Release.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had the same issue with the XR & XR16 Pro fairway woods, I did the same thing Jaskanski said but got annoyed that it kept happening.  The XR Pro is one of my favorite 3 woods of all time but the hosel issue was annoying.  It was not just mine, I know other people who the same issues with the Callaway XR ferrules separating.

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TaylorMade SIM 19* Tensei Pro White

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Vokey SM8 54* 60* Modus 125 wedge

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47 minutes ago, Granata13 said:

I had the same issue with the XR & XR16 Pro fairway woods, I did the same thing Jaskanski said but got annoyed that it kept happening.  The XR Pro is one of my favorite 3 woods of all time but the hosel issue was annoying.  It was not just mine, I know other people who the same issues with the Callaway XR ferrules separating.

Have you reshaft it  ?   Was the ferrule a collared ferrule called for the conned hosel ?  The section of shaft under the ferrule prep the same as the inserted section ?

most the ferrule creeping up was cause by either the shaft raised up due to air pressure before the epoxy was cured, or excessive shaft movement when club head contacting the golf ball and the ground.  If you look at a frame by frame still photo of the close up when the golf club strike the golf ball and the ground.... there are a lot of movement between each part of the hosel and shaft and the ferrule.....

I had replace with non-collared ferrule on all reshafting and no issue, ever.  Except when the shaft had a little play, around the top of the hosel, which allowed for extra movement when in use;  apply enough epoxy and the ferrule will stayput. 

Here is a tip for you, run a rat tail file through the ferrule several times to rough up the interior wall of the ferrule apply thin coat of epozy and you'll never have another creeped up ferrule.  Always prep "all" surfaces to be epoxied.

Edited by release
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6 hours ago, release said:

Have you reshaft it  ?   Was the ferrule a collared ferrule called for the conned hosel ?  The section of shaft under the ferrule prep the same as the inserted section ?

most the ferrule creeping up was cause by either the shaft raised up due to air pressure before the epoxy was cured, or excessive shaft movement when club head contacting the golf ball and the ground.  If you look at a frame by frame still photo of the close up when the golf club strike the golf ball and the ground.... there are a lot of movement between each part of the hosel and shaft and the ferrule.....

I had replace with non-collared ferrule on all reshafting and no issue, ever.  Except when the shaft had a little play, around the top of the hosel, which allowed for extra movement when in use;  apply enough epoxy and the ferrule will stayput. 

Here is a tip for you, run a rat tail file through the ferrule several times to rough up the interior wall of the ferrule apply thin coat of epozy and you'll never have another creeped up ferrule.  Always prep "all" surfaces to be epoxied.

Both XR Pro and XR16 pro were straight from Callaway brand new!  I did not try to re-shaft them myself, I just tried to re set the ferrule as Jaskanski has said.  At the time I had just left the golf business and I did not have a good shaft puller so I did not try and re-shaft myself.  I used to do quite a bit of club repair when I was a club pro so I just tried to re-set the ferrule but no luck.  

Ping G425 LST 10.5* - Rogue White 130

Ping G425 LST 14.5 - Rogue White 130

TaylorMade SIM 19* Tensei Pro White

Srixon ZX5 4&5 iron Modus 120

Srixon ZX7 6-AW Modus 120

Vokey SM8 54* 60* Modus 125 wedge

EvnRoll ER5B

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5 hours ago, Granata13 said:

customer service and voice your 

Both XR Pro and XR16 pro were straight from Callaway brand new!  I did not try to re-shaft them myself, I just tried to re set the ferrule as Jaskanski has said.  At the time I had just left the golf business and I did not have a good shaft puller so I did not try and re-shaft myself.  I used to do quite a bit of club repair when I was a club pro so I just tried to re-set the ferrule but no luck.  

You are an experienced golf nut, and you reset the ferrule at no avail .   Strange, I can only guess if the assembler for the Callaway clubs did not prep the inside of the ferrule. or did not use the collared ferrule as most the callaway golf clubs needing that feature.

OEM could not match the quality control they used to have because of changed business model.  Most of the OEM clubs were assembled here in the States by independent contractors, to safe cost from importing components instead of assembled golf clubs.  Quite a bit of difference on import tariff importing parts instead a completed products.

I would contact Callaway customer service to let them know what happend and see their reaction.  At least they will know this is happening and hopefully something good will come out of this.

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  • 1 year later...

I have the same issue, looks like the head is fixed but the ferrule has come away.

Having said that my previous set I had a 3 iron heads that actually came loose. Why does this happen? I don't store them in the car boot or anywhere exceptionally hot or wash with hot water. Is it me striking them incorrectly? I'm a fairly decent player (10hc) so don't think it could be me hitting the ball/ground too hard. Any ideas?

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On 4/28/2020 at 9:27 AM, Getoffmylawn said:

three times now I've had the ferrule "fixed"...it keeps creeping up the shaft

How did you "fixed" the ferrule ?  First and foremost, make certain the shaft is not loose connecting to the hosel.  There is a high probability the shaft would come loose when the ferrule is loose.  To the credit of the OEM assembly team, the type of material used in the ferrule could also cause more sliding ferrule from the use.  Onetime they were using harder compound in the ferrule ( look more shinning ).

This happens with different OEM with graphite shafts.  The plastic could be too hard and not able to flex with the shaft during play ( I forgot the components they use to make the plastic looks shinning ) .  Or this could be caused by leaving the golf clubs in the trunk of the car, the higher temperature resulted from the green house effect will soften the epoxy and  ferrule will come creeping up the ferrule with the flexing of the shaft during play.

For your next fix.  slide the ferrule up a bit more, tape and protect the hosel and lightly sand the exposed shaft under the ferrule ( or score the paint off with a sharp utility blade.  Just enough to take off the first layer of the paint ( clear coat )).

Epoxy it back into place ( some will use a drop of super glue, but think of whether you want to reshaft and save the shaft in the future ).  If this does not work, then, next step is to pull the shaft and change the ferrule.

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I took my clubs to my local pro shop where they do repairs, he tried to twist the head and it turned. Checked a couple more clubs and they were also loose.

As I mentioned before I don't store them in the car boot or anywhere exceptionally hot or wash with hot water. Why does this happen?

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Probably caused by a lack of epoxy or a bad epoxy mix during the assembly process on a shaft that hadn't been scuffed.  

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