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Golf shaft epoxy failing?


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so the question is...  Does anyone have problems with golf shaft epoxy failing? I've had the same club head come loose twice now. Can't really see a reason why it would be failing.  The club head seems as clean as the rest inside the hosel. I don't hit that club anymore that any other club. Is there a kind of epoxy that anyone uses that might be stronger bonding? I do take some pretty aggressive divots, but why would it be failing on a club I don't hit anymore then the rest? Please help, I've played golf 10 times this year and it just failed last weekend. 

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How old is your epoxy? I have had problems with older epoxy before.


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What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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Typically when this happens it's either because the hosel and shaft weren't cleaned and prepped properly, or the epoxy wasn't mixed properly.  Was the same epoxy used through out the entire set?  Or you mentioned it's the 2nd time this happened to the same iron, could have just been a bad ratio or mix if it was a one off rebuild.

It's possible there could be a larger tolerance (i.e. gap) between the hosel and shaft of that club as well.  You could try adding shafting beads to the epoxy mix to strengthen it up and get a better fit.

Driver: :taylormade-small: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black

3w: :taylormade-small:'16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82

5w: :cleveland-small: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow

Hybrid: :cleveland-small: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black

Irons: :cleveland-small: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Wedges: :cleveland-small: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125

Putter: :odyssey-small: Red 7s

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Initially the entire iron set was done at the same time, used shafting beads in the entire set also. After the first time it failed Michael Riley reshafted it on his own but I would assume he used shafting beads then too.  

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10 minutes ago, Erik-M said:

Few months per Michael Riley, he did the build

 

6 minutes ago, hckymeyer said:

Typically when this happens it's either because the hosel and shaft weren't cleaned and prepped properly, or the epoxy wasn't mixed properly.  Was the same epoxy used through out the entire set?  Or you mentioned it's the 2nd time this happened to the same iron, could have just been a bad ratio or mix if it was a one off rebuild.

It's possible there could be a larger tolerance (i.e. gap) between the hosel and shaft of that club as well.  You could try adding shafting beads to the epoxy mix to strengthen it up and get a better fit.

I would say hckymeyer post would be a good place to start if the epoxy is that new. Just start over and follow the directions as precise as possible. Prep, mix, and cure time. Also keep the leftover epoxy and check it to make sure it sets up correctly. 
 

On a side note, I’m not a huge glass bead guy. I prefer collared ferrules is the fit isn’t perfect instead of mixing something into the epoxy. 

 

 

 

What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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Is there any good epoxy to grab from Walmart or do you need to stickk to golf epoxies?

You can buy epoxy from Home Depot and it’ll work just fine.
  • Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X
  • TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X
  • Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X
  • Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X
  • PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100
  • Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60  Nippon Modus 3 120s
  • L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5*
  • Srixon Z-Star XV 

Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges…

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/

Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P

https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/

 

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Personally I always stick to golf specific ones from Brampton. Others have used non golf specific ones with success but I prefer not to take the chances.

Also while making sure the hosel is clean, it should also be rough. A smooth hosel and shaft could lead to poor adhesion.


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What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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Also make sure there isn't a build up of epoxy in the shaft tip. If so drill it out. You need a way for the air to escape up the shaft when you insert the shaft into the hosel. If it is plugged you get an air pocket and in the warmer weather (club in the trunk of the car) the epoxy softens a bit and the air bubble expands causing the head to work it's way off the club a bit each temperature cycle. 

Two part epoxy from home depot or whatever hardware store you have near by works just fine. Just pick one for high temperature. It has the same temperature break down points and yield strength as golf specific epoxy. 

Shaft prep is critical for a good bond. 

:titleist-small: Driver, TSi 1 S Flex

:cobra-small: 3 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex

:cobra-small: 5 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 7 Wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 

:cobra-small: 5 Hybrid King Tec MMT R Flex

:cobra-small: Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap)

:cobra-small: Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60*

:cobra-small: Agera 35"

image.png Ultralight 14-way Cart Bag

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What type of epoxy is being used? The quick set stuff, 24 hour, etc?

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
Wedges:ping-small: Glide 4.0 54 and 58
Putter:  :ping-small: PLD Custom Kushin 4

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1 hour ago, Erik-M said:

It was 5 min epoxy, but I ordered maximum strength golf works epoxy, hopefully be a stronger bond

I have never used the 5 min epoxy, but heard of issues with it. 

Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s

Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver

Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft

Updated 07/15/2022
Driver:callaway-small: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex
Fairway Woods:callaway-small: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood
Irons:mizuno-small: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip
Wedges:ping-small: Glide 4.0 54 and 58
Putter:  :ping-small: PLD Custom Kushin 4

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I have never used the 5 min epoxy, but heard of issues with it. 
I have used the 5 minute stuff before but usually only on putters. I always worried about it even then and usually gave it overnight to cure just to be safe. Once them bottles were gone I went back to the 24hr stuff. Piece of mind was worth the extra time to me.

Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using MyGolfSpy mobile app

 

 

 

What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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should I be taking off the grip in order to let the epoxy set up correctly?

You can just poke a tee or something through the hole in the end of the grip to break the tape to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. If the grip doesn’t have tape under it then you should be fine. Blowing in the end of the shaft or the hole of the grip will tell you if it is open all the way through.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

 

 

 

What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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I'm gonna use a little more aggressive sand paper also, I got the hosel completely cleaned out, not a drop off old material in there. Fingers crossed

Just be careful not to go too deep on the shaft. All you are trying to do with the shaft is remove the paint. Keeping the hosel and shaft slightly rough instead of smooth with help with a better bond.


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

 

 

 

What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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Ok, thanks for the tips, you've been very helpfully. I appreciate it.  I will update during the process. 

No worries. Looking forward to see how it goes. I find it one of the most satisfying things to build a club from components and knowing that I had a hand in completing the club. Just be careful as it becomes addicting! Lol


Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

 

 

 

What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag

Driver:    :cobra-small: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45”

Fairway: :srixon-small: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5”

 :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Driving Iron: :ping-small: Rapture 2-Iron 

Irons: :edel-golf-1: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s 

Wedges: :edel-golf-1: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft

               :ping-small: Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft

Putters: :L.A.B.: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie

              :EVNROLL: EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie

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On 5/9/2020 at 9:53 AM, blackngold_blood said:

You can just poke a tee or something through the hole in the end of the grip to break the tape to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. If the grip doesn’t have tape under it then you should be fine. Blowing in the end of the shaft or the hole of the grip will tell you if it is open all the way through.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy

so the job is done, I poked a hole through the but of the grip. Had to take apart the club cause I didn't mix in enough hardener the first time and it was still not tacky after 24 hours.  Then I really paid attention to the instructions and it was 2 to 1!geesh so now it is hardened and I'm testing it out tomorrow.  Wish me luck!!

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On 5/16/2020 at 12:24 PM, Erik-M said:

well I got to it today, first iron shot on hole 1 perfect 8 iron distance. Club stayed intact!! Had to use it 3 or 4 more times and as of now looking good!! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted

If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep.  Harbor Freight usually has good prices.  Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well.  You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel.  Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust.  Let that dry completely.  Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel.  If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810.  It is really good, but can be a little pricey.  It'll take a beating and won't fail.

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5 hours ago, Jimbonecrusher said:

If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep.  Harbor Freight usually has good prices.  Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well.  You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel.  Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust.  Let that dry completely.  Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel.  If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810.  It is really good, but can be a little pricey.  It'll take a beating and won't fail.

Thanks for the input I will look into it. I appreciate it!

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This post may be a little late since you got the club completed. I just wanted to share from my experience. First agree with lots of the posts above. There is one investment that I made that I highly recommend to anyone that does club repair  and its to have a guage like the "Golf Mechanix Shaft and Hosel Gauge Set" (GolfWorks/38.99). You can measure new or sanded shaft tips and hosel id sizes before mixing your epoxy (I also only use the beaded/high strength epoxies). Many times the tips that are re-shafted/re-prepped get reduced in diameter enough that not even the best epoxy can ensure the bond holds. Yes shims work but I try to avoid those.  Its been years since I have had a shaft/club head come apart and I attribute that to paying close attention to the tip/hosel fit and good high strength epoxy. 

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