Erik-M Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 so the question is... Does anyone have problems with golf shaft epoxy failing? I've had the same club head come loose twice now. Can't really see a reason why it would be failing. The club head seems as clean as the rest inside the hosel. I don't hit that club anymore that any other club. Is there a kind of epoxy that anyone uses that might be stronger bonding? I do take some pretty aggressive divots, but why would it be failing on a club I don't hit anymore then the rest? Please help, I've played golf 10 times this year and it just failed last weekend. Quote Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 How old is your epoxy? I have had problems with older epoxy before. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy bens197 1 Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Few months per Michael Riley, he did the build Quote Link to comment
hckymeyer Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 Typically when this happens it's either because the hosel and shaft weren't cleaned and prepped properly, or the epoxy wasn't mixed properly. Was the same epoxy used through out the entire set? Or you mentioned it's the 2nd time this happened to the same iron, could have just been a bad ratio or mix if it was a one off rebuild. It's possible there could be a larger tolerance (i.e. gap) between the hosel and shaft of that club as well. You could try adding shafting beads to the epoxy mix to strengthen it up and get a better fit. Quote Driver: SLDR w/ Fujikura Ventus Black 3w: '16 M2 hl w/ Diamana D+ 82 5w: Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Yellow Hybrid: 22 deg. Launcher HB w/ HZRDUS Black Irons: 5i - gap Launcher CBX w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Wedges: 54 CBX & 58 Zipcore w/ Nippon Modus 3 125 Putter: Red 7s Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Initially the entire iron set was done at the same time, used shafting beads in the entire set also. After the first time it failed Michael Riley reshafted it on his own but I would assume he used shafting beads then too. Quote Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 4, 2020 Share Posted May 4, 2020 10 minutes ago, Erik-M said: Few months per Michael Riley, he did the build 6 minutes ago, hckymeyer said: Typically when this happens it's either because the hosel and shaft weren't cleaned and prepped properly, or the epoxy wasn't mixed properly. Was the same epoxy used through out the entire set? Or you mentioned it's the 2nd time this happened to the same iron, could have just been a bad ratio or mix if it was a one off rebuild. It's possible there could be a larger tolerance (i.e. gap) between the hosel and shaft of that club as well. You could try adding shafting beads to the epoxy mix to strengthen it up and get a better fit. I would say hckymeyer post would be a good place to start if the epoxy is that new. Just start over and follow the directions as precise as possible. Prep, mix, and cure time. Also keep the leftover epoxy and check it to make sure it sets up correctly. On a side note, I’m not a huge glass bead guy. I prefer collared ferrules is the fit isn’t perfect instead of mixing something into the epoxy. Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 I will clean the hosel to the nth degree when I reshaft it in the next day or 2 Quote Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 Is there any good epoxy to grab from Walmart or do you need to stickk to golf epoxies? Quote Link to comment
bens197 Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Is there any good epoxy to grab from Walmart or do you need to stickk to golf epoxies?You can buy epoxy from Home Depot and it’ll work just fine. Quote Titleist TSi3 Fujikura Speeder NX Blue 60X TaylorMade SIM2 3 wood Fujilkura Ventus Blue 7-X Titleist U505 2 Tensei 1K Black 85 X Titleist T100 4-P Nippon Modus 3 120X PING S159 50-S 55-H 59-T DG X100 Vokey SM8 50, SM9 54 & 60 Nippon Modus 3 120s L.A.B. MEZZ Max Broom Accra 47" 79.5* Srixon Z-Star XV Currently testing the 2024 PING S159 wedges… https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/63483-testers-announced-ping-s159-wedges/ Was testing, still loving the 2023 Titleist T100 Irons 4-P https://forum.mygolfspy.com/topic/60456-titleist-t-series-irons-2023-forum-review/ Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Personally I always stick to golf specific ones from Brampton. Others have used non golf specific ones with success but I prefer not to take the chances. Also while making sure the hosel is clean, it should also be rough. A smooth hosel and shaft could lead to poor adhesion. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy bens197 and cnosil 2 Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 5, 2020 Author Share Posted May 5, 2020 Thanks guys!I appreciate the help! Quote Link to comment
Tom the Golf Nut Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 Also make sure there isn't a build up of epoxy in the shaft tip. If so drill it out. You need a way for the air to escape up the shaft when you insert the shaft into the hosel. If it is plugged you get an air pocket and in the warmer weather (club in the trunk of the car) the epoxy softens a bit and the air bubble expands causing the head to work it's way off the club a bit each temperature cycle. Two part epoxy from home depot or whatever hardware store you have near by works just fine. Just pick one for high temperature. It has the same temperature break down points and yield strength as golf specific epoxy. Shaft prep is critical for a good bond. Quote Driver, TSi 1 S Flex 3 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 5 wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 7 Wood, Aerojet Max UST Helium Nanocore R Flex 5 Hybrid King Tec MMT R Flex Irons, Tour UST Recoil 95 R Flex (6 - Gap) Wedges, Snakebite KBS Hi- Rev2.0 54* & 60* Agera 35" Ultralight 14-way Cart Bag Link to comment
dlow206 Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 What type of epoxy is being used? The quick set stuff, 24 hour, etc? Quote Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft Updated 07/15/2022 Driver: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex Fairway Woods: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood Irons: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip Wedges: Glide 4.0 54 and 58 Putter: PLD Custom Kushin 4 Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 It was 5 min epoxy, but I ordered maximum strength golf works epoxy, hopefully be a stronger bond dlow206 1 Quote Link to comment
dlow206 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Erik-M said: It was 5 min epoxy, but I ordered maximum strength golf works epoxy, hopefully be a stronger bond I have never used the 5 min epoxy, but heard of issues with it. Quote Follow my golf journey to break into the 80s Tester for the Titleist TSi Driver Spring 2020 MGS Tester for the Fujikura Motore X Shaft Updated 07/15/2022 Driver: Rogue St Max LS - Autoflex Fairway Woods: Rogue Max St 3HL and 7 Wood Irons: JPX 921 Hot Metal 5 to AW - Aerotech Steelfiber i95 Stiff parallel tip Wedges: Glide 4.0 54 and 58 Putter: PLD Custom Kushin 4 Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I have never used the 5 min epoxy, but heard of issues with it. I have used the 5 minute stuff before but usually only on putters. I always worried about it even then and usually gave it overnight to cure just to be safe. Once them bottles were gone I went back to the 24hr stuff. Piece of mind was worth the extra time to me. Sent from my Moto Z3 Play using MyGolfSpy mobile app dlow206 1 Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Popeye64 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I would use a shim before beads on the next assembly. Also if the shaft wasn't scuffed up enough I have seen repeated failures. Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk aerospace_ray 1 Quote Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 should I be taking off the grip in order to let the epoxy set up correctly? Quote Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 I'm gonna use a little more aggressive sand paper also, I got the hosel completely cleaned out, not a drop off old material in there. Fingers crossed Quote Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 should I be taking off the grip in order to let the epoxy set up correctly?You can just poke a tee or something through the hole in the end of the grip to break the tape to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. If the grip doesn’t have tape under it then you should be fine. Blowing in the end of the shaft or the hole of the grip will tell you if it is open all the way through. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Tom the Golf Nut and Erik-M 2 Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 I'm gonna use a little more aggressive sand paper also, I got the hosel completely cleaned out, not a drop off old material in there. Fingers crossedJust be careful not to go too deep on the shaft. All you are trying to do with the shaft is remove the paint. Keeping the hosel and shaft slightly rough instead of smooth with help with a better bond. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Erik-M 1 Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 9, 2020 Author Share Posted May 9, 2020 3 minutes ago, blackngold_blood said: You can just poke a tee through the hole in the end of the grip to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Ok, thanks for the tips, you've been very helpfully. I appreciate it. I will update during the process. GolfSpy_BNG 1 Quote Link to comment
GolfSpy_BNG Posted May 9, 2020 Share Posted May 9, 2020 Ok, thanks for the tips, you've been very helpfully. I appreciate it. I will update during the process. No worries. Looking forward to see how it goes. I find it one of the most satisfying things to build a club from components and knowing that I had a hand in completing the club. Just be careful as it becomes addicting! LolSent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy Quote What is in my Sun Mountain C-130 bag or Jones MyGolfSpy bag Driver: Dark speed LS 8* set to -1.5* with an Attas Daaas 4x shaft @ 45” Fairway: F85 3 wood with a XPhplexx Agera X @ 42.5” F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5" Driving Iron: Rapture 2-Iron Irons: SMS Pros 4-PW with Steelfiber I95s Wedges: SMS 50* T grind with Steelfiber i110s Glide 4.0 46* zz wedge shaft Glide 4.0 E grind 54* zz wedge shaft Putters: Mezz.1 34” 69* lie EV5.1 black 33.5” 69* lie Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 On 5/9/2020 at 9:53 AM, blackngold_blood said: You can just poke a tee or something through the hole in the end of the grip to break the tape to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. If the grip doesn’t have tape under it then you should be fine. Blowing in the end of the shaft or the hole of the grip will tell you if it is open all the way through. Sent from my iPhone using MyGolfSpy so the job is done, I poked a hole through the but of the grip. Had to take apart the club cause I didn't mix in enough hardener the first time and it was still not tacky after 24 hours. Then I really paid attention to the instructions and it was 2 to 1!geesh so now it is hardened and I'm testing it out tomorrow. Wish me luck!! cnosil, sirchunksalot and GolfSpy_BNG 3 Quote Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 16, 2020 Author Share Posted May 16, 2020 well I got to it today, first iron shot on hole 1 perfect 8 iron distance. Club stayed intact!! Had to use it 3 or 4 more times and as of now looking good!! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted GolfSpy MPR, cnosil and GolfSpy_BNG 3 Quote Link to comment
Jimbonecrusher Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 On 5/16/2020 at 12:24 PM, Erik-M said: well I got to it today, first iron shot on hole 1 perfect 8 iron distance. Club stayed intact!! Had to use it 3 or 4 more times and as of now looking good!! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep. Harbor Freight usually has good prices. Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well. You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel. Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust. Let that dry completely. Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel. If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810. It is really good, but can be a little pricey. It'll take a beating and won't fail. Erik-M 1 Quote Link to comment
Erik-M Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 5 hours ago, Jimbonecrusher said: If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep. Harbor Freight usually has good prices. Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well. You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel. Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust. Let that dry completely. Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel. If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810. It is really good, but can be a little pricey. It'll take a beating and won't fail. Thanks for the input I will look into it. I appreciate it! Quote Link to comment
aerospace_ray Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 This post may be a little late since you got the club completed. I just wanted to share from my experience. First agree with lots of the posts above. There is one investment that I made that I highly recommend to anyone that does club repair and its to have a guage like the "Golf Mechanix Shaft and Hosel Gauge Set" (GolfWorks/38.99). You can measure new or sanded shaft tips and hosel id sizes before mixing your epoxy (I also only use the beaded/high strength epoxies). Many times the tips that are re-shafted/re-prepped get reduced in diameter enough that not even the best epoxy can ensure the bond holds. Yes shims work but I try to avoid those. Its been years since I have had a shaft/club head come apart and I attribute that to paying close attention to the tip/hosel fit and good high strength epoxy. Quote Link to comment
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