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Erik-M

Golf shaft epoxy failing?

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I'm gonna use a little more aggressive sand paper also, I got the hosel completely cleaned out, not a drop off old material in there. Fingers crossed

Just be careful not to go too deep on the shaft. All you are trying to do with the shaft is remove the paint. Keeping the hosel and shaft slightly rough instead of smooth with help with a better bond.


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What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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3 minutes ago, blackngold_blood said:


You can just poke a tee through the hole in the end of the grip to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it.


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Ok, thanks for the tips, you've been very helpfully. I appreciate it.  I will update during the process. 

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Ok, thanks for the tips, you've been very helpfully. I appreciate it.  I will update during the process. 

No worries. Looking forward to see how it goes. I find it one of the most satisfying things to build a club from components and knowing that I had a hand in completing the club. Just be careful as it becomes addicting! Lol


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What is in my Bag Boy Revolver

Driver:    PXG Gen2 0811x 10.5* set to small + with a VA Composites Nemesys 55s @ 44.75"

Fairway:  :srixon-small: F85 5 wood with a UST Elements Chrome 7F5 @ 41.5"

Irons: Testing the Titleist T200 irons 4-W2 with Project X LZ 5.5 shaft -1/2" and 1* Up

Wedge: Titleist SM7 56* with Project X LZ 5.0 shaft

Putter:  :scotty-cameron-1: Custom Futura X5 flow neck with a UST Frequency Filtered shaft -1" with a SS wristlock grip

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On 5/9/2020 at 9:53 AM, blackngold_blood said:

You can just poke a tee or something through the hole in the end of the grip to break the tape to let the air escape. You don’t need to remove it. If the grip doesn’t have tape under it then you should be fine. Blowing in the end of the shaft or the hole of the grip will tell you if it is open all the way through.

 

 

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so the job is done, I poked a hole through the but of the grip. Had to take apart the club cause I didn't mix in enough hardener the first time and it was still not tacky after 24 hours.  Then I really paid attention to the instructions and it was 2 to 1!geesh so now it is hardened and I'm testing it out tomorrow.  Wish me luck!!

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well I got to it today, first iron shot on hole 1 perfect 8 iron distance. Club stayed intact!! Had to use it 3 or 4 more times and as of now looking good!! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted

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On 5/16/2020 at 12:24 PM, Erik-M said:

well I got to it today, first iron shot on hole 1 perfect 8 iron distance. Club stayed intact!! Had to use it 3 or 4 more times and as of now looking good!! Thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted

If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep.  Harbor Freight usually has good prices.  Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well.  You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel.  Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust.  Let that dry completely.  Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel.  If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810.  It is really good, but can be a little pricey.  It'll take a beating and won't fail.

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5 hours ago, Jimbonecrusher said:

If you are looking at doing any more building, look into a good 30 inch belt sander for shaft prep.  Harbor Freight usually has good prices.  Also, for cleaning out the inside of the hosels, you can find a metal bristle brush used for cleaning gun barrels, usually 9mm, .40, or 10mm will work well.  You can put that into a drill and run it into the hosel and it should help clean the excess expoxy from the hosel.  Also, use acetone or denatured alcohol to clean out the epoxy dust.  Let that dry completely.  Shims, glass shafting beads, tungsten powder, or lead powder is a good addition to epoxy to help center the shaft in the hosel.  If you really want a good epoxy, look into 3M DP810.  It is really good, but can be a little pricey.  It'll take a beating and won't fail.

Thanks for the input I will look into it. I appreciate it!

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This post may be a little late since you got the club completed. I just wanted to share from my experience. First agree with lots of the posts above. There is one investment that I made that I highly recommend to anyone that does club repair  and its to have a guage like the "Golf Mechanix Shaft and Hosel Gauge Set" (GolfWorks/38.99). You can measure new or sanded shaft tips and hosel id sizes before mixing your epoxy (I also only use the beaded/high strength epoxies). Many times the tips that are re-shafted/re-prepped get reduced in diameter enough that not even the best epoxy can ensure the bond holds. Yes shims work but I try to avoid those.  Its been years since I have had a shaft/club head come apart and I attribute that to paying close attention to the tip/hosel fit and good high strength epoxy. 

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