Show us your Maltby!!!

[tommc23]

On 8/28/2020 at 12:35 PM, tommc23 said:

 

 

Man I hate to say it but the 3i will be getting sold soon. The sub70 hybrid flys further and is more consistent than I am with the 3i

[windlaker]

Just completed my recent PTM build with additional ts2 4 and 5 on the top that extended my 4* gap trough the 5 might have GW bend the 4 down to 20* but it works great for me as is.  The TSW on the bottom I have yet to play but have no doubt it will fit in nicely after reading all the positive reviews here. I threw the 54 in the bag for extra eye candy it will be coming out as it matches up better with my DBM heads that are available for sale if anyone is interested. Two cobra hybrids that go in and out with the driver Coba 3/4, 5/7 are money the 5 will never leave. The putter, a 6$ lotus off eBay is 100% carbon made in the USA( no longer in production) that in itself could be fun to play with the finish. If there is anyone out there that has stripped the finish on carbon putters and blued, oiled, or  heat treated for different effects I would love to hear from you. 

Edited August 22, 2021 by windlaker

[Pooter McGavin]

MMB-blacks and UFW 7 and 9 woods.

[windlaker]

Steel shaft in the ufw?

[windlaker]

Long story, but the short end of it is, I have been more show than go, reasons being I have had two lumbar fusions. 2/27/21 was the most recent, so I glue together clubs using a calculator and my awesome shop to create and use my clubs that I believe are as good as any. I hit 30 balls today with my new ts2/PTM build and using my swing caddy 300 realized my swing speed in one week has dropped 5 mph! All true died in the wool golfers are dreamers and builders of their game or clubs, I am offering what I created on this forum to not only promote Maltby but the builders like Popeye who  show what is possible, and how beautiful Maltby clubs are. That picture of the MMB’s just a few frames back is one I hope to take some day, look at it, pure muscle backs with beautiful wear(patina) lead tape to bear the weight of the owner and the drive he has for improvement. Here is a picture of one of my on again off again DBM experiments in orange. To build or not to build?

[windlaker]

Maltby addict look close dose the DBM iron look better blacked out or with the orange hossel 

 

[windlaker]

Please take me out for a walk!

[Titleist87]

On 12/30/2020 at 11:04 AM, Eric Elliott said:

Ordered my irons based on fitting specs that I received a few weeks back - they came in on Saturday and I was able to play with them on Monday.  I wanted to share pics.  I also wanted to let you know that I appreciated all the posts and information I got from this forum.  I look forward to seeing other Maltby pics and info in the future.  I am trying to talk a golfing buddy into buying from Maltby also

 

 

How has the finish on the DBM held up with play? I plan on the TE or DBM in the near future.

[azstu324]

1 hour ago, Titleist87 said:

How has the finish on the DBM held up with play? I plan on the TE or DBM in the near future.

I'll step in and give my experience with the DBM's and the finish. I played the DBM's for about 3 seasons. You may know that DBM isn't so much a coating like PVD but it's actually more part of the metal itself. After 3 seasons of all kinds of abuse, the most noticeable wear was just a slight lightening of the color from a dark graphite to maybe a medium graphite.. that's it! DBM should be the standard for black clubs but because it costs a few bucks more and requires a little more involvement in the process, and IMO lasts MUCH longer, it's not widely used by the OEM's. These really are beautiful clubs!

[windlaker]

On 8/31/2021 at 9:05 AM, Titleist87 said:

How has the finish on the DBM held up with play? I plan on the TE or DBM in the near future.

 

On 8/31/2021 at 10:33 AM, azstu324 said:

I'll step in and give my experience with the DBM's and the finish. I played the DBM's for about 3 seasons. You may know that DBM isn't so much a coating like PVD but it's actually more part of the metal itself. After 3 seasons of all kinds of abuse, the most noticeable wear was just a slight lightening of the color from a dark graphite to maybe a medium graphite.. that's it! DBM should be the standard for black clubs but because it costs a few bucks more and requires a little more involvement in the process, and IMO lasts MUCH longer, it's not widely used by the OEM's. These really are beautiful clubs!

I agree the finish is outstanding, very durable and can be given a beautiful hue with a little WD40, although the picture above shows the irons cleaned up with just water and a scrub brush. I have noticed that my wedge that I play from the sand regularly has a bit of wear on the sole and has a color that looks good IMHO 

Just now, windlaker said:

 

I agree the finish is outstanding, very durable and can be given a beautiful hue with a little WD40, although the picture above shows the irons cleaned up with just water and a scrub brush. I have noticed that my wedge that I play from the sand regularly has a bit of wear on the sole and has a color that looks good IMHO 

 

[jtgavigan]

The biggest issue with the DBM finish in that in makes the club almost impossible to adjust without breaking it. I play my irons and wedges 2° to 3° flat and almost none of them should be bent that much. You might be able to get away with it, but likely not.

I love the finish, but they are just a hard no for me.

[theblake7]

On 9/6/2021 at 8:05 PM, jtgavigan said:

The biggest issue with the DBM finish in that in makes the club almost impossible to adjust without breaking it.

I have DBM irons and M+ wedges and Ke4 tour long irons ( also dbm finish) and bent all 3 degrees flat and changed lofts by up to 2 degrees.   So all up 14 heads bent, 2 cracked.  Very tiny cracks.  

Golfworks agreed to bend 2 deg flat for me when i ordered replacements. My clubfitter however said they were 0 flat and bent them again to 3.

I got a mate who is a metals genius and he got the welder onto my cracked heads.

First attempt instantly blew a hole out of the other side of the hosel.   He thought that was either due to some glue inside or the DBM material burning, or both.   kids, Dont try this at home.

Then to do the 7iron he first ground the dbm off, and welded it up successfully. Its ugly but he declared it will break in 5 mins or never.   Thats now my driving range club, and its hit 1000s balls off mats over a couple years.

 

Edited September 12, 2021 by theblake7

[windlaker]

Needs more work but here's my DBM with orange pain fill to match the ferrules any thoughts or suggestions to make filling and wiping off easier are welcome. 

Edited September 19, 2021 by windlaker

[windlaker]

A couple coats and some TLC and they are ready for trick or treat!

[brendalonian]

On 9/22/2021 at 2:07 PM, windlaker said:

A couple coats and some TLC and they are ready for trick or treat!

Those clubs look mean & spooky! Well done. 

What type of paint did you use for the paint fill? I've never attempted it myself but I've been reading blogs & articles about how to strip the old paint using acetone, but it seems like everyone has a different recommendation for what type of paint to use. Any other tips would be appreciated! 

[windlaker]

On 9/24/2021 at 8:09 AM, brendalonian said:

Those clubs look mean & spooky! Well done. 

What type of paint did you use for the paint fill? I've never attempted it myself but I've been reading blogs & articles about how to strip the old paint using acetone, but it seems like everyone has a different recommendation for what type of paint to use. Any other tips would be appreciated! 

I use testers enamel wiping with a dry cloth, or a paper towel dipped in some grip solvent

[Pooter McGavin]

On 8/22/2021 at 7:50 PM, windlaker said:

Steel shaft in the ufw?

Yes steel shafts in the ufw's 40" 7w, 39" 9w.

[windlaker]

On 9/24/2021 at 8:09 AM, brendalonian said:

Those clubs look mean & spooky! Well done. 

What type of paint did you use for the paint fill? I've never attempted it myself but I've been reading blogs & articles about how to strip the old paint using acetone, but it seems like everyone has a different recommendation for what type of paint to use. Any other tips would be appreciated! 

I used testers enamel I have tried nail polish before with poor results 

[azstu324]

So I've been gaming the TSW 50° and 56° for some time (5-6 mo).. well in the club ho-ing business that is quite some time. These wedges are as good as they come IMO. 

I just ordered the newer TSW 56° with the DRM (diamondized raw metal) finish if anybody's interested in a comparison. Should be here by the end of the week and I'll build it up to hopefully put it in play over the weekend. My guess, like all Maltby products, the good looking pictures will look even better in person. 

[azstu324]

Got the new wedge in and shafted it up with the Kuro Kage Black shaft that I had in my other TSW 

I'm loving the color and overall appearance of the DRM. Kinda pewter-ish in color. It will be interesting to see if the finish oxidises like the description says it might. 

Definitely more glare resistant..

 

[ncwoz]

8 hours ago, azstu324 said:

Got the new wedge in and shafted it up with the Kuro Kage Black shaft that I had in my other TSW 

I'm loving the color and overall appearance of the DRM. Kinda pewter-ish in color. It will be interesting to see if the finish oxidises like the description says it might. 

Definitely more glare resistant..

 

The more muted glare would be great! That's probably my biggest complaint with my TSW's - when the lighting is just right the glare can be pretty intense.

[azstu324]

3 hours ago, ncwoz said:

The more muted glare would be great! That's probably my biggest complaint with my TSW's - when the lighting is just right the glare can be pretty intense.

That would be my ONLY complaint about them really, and it looks like Maltby took some queues from customer feedback and made the 1 improvement needed. 

Time will tell with the finish and if it ends up oxidizing and if the added durability factor if the DRM will impact the feel in any way. I'm hoping to take it for a spin this weekend

[Popeye64]

On 10/15/2021 at 10:25 AM, azstu324 said:

That would be my ONLY complaint about them really, and it looks like Maltby took some queues from customer feedback and made the 1 improvement needed. 

Time will tell with the finish and if it ends up oxidizing and if the added durability factor if the DRM will impact the feel in any way. I'm hoping to take it for a spin this weekend

I find the finish on the DRM to be holding up as delivered. No signs of oxidation. Some signs of slight discoloration but it sort of adds character. I put them away wet and dirty too. Not treating them well shows no adverse effects. 

Feel wise I really can't tell the difference between the two finishes. 

[azstu324]

3 hours ago, Popeye64 said:

I find the finish on the DRM to be holding up as delivered. No signs of oxidation. Some signs of slight discoloration but it sort of adds character. I put them away wet and dirty too. Not treating them well shows no adverse effects. 

Feel wise I really can't tell the difference between the two finishes. 

Took the new 56° out for its first real test today. Red Mountain Ranch GC. Skinny fairways and tiny raised greens with a lot of blind corners. Shot the round of my life with a 75. The wedge was superb! So thats what happens when the putter, wedges, irons, AND driver all decide to get along

Been kicking around the idea of adding some weight to the heads of my TSW's since putting in a lighter 80g graphite shaft. I found these tungsten rubber weights and decided to see how the wedge played with an added 4g. They went from really great to magical overnight! Bumped up the SW by 2 pts without really adding much overall weight to the club really made a difference. I also added 12g to my driver and found a whole different level of accuracy and feel. 

[Eric Elliott]

I am sorry that I did not respond for a while - lots of stuff going on in my world since mid-August.  Nothing life threatening, just got laid off and trying to find a new job and get acclimated.

 

Someone asked my DBM set is holding up, and someone else responded exactly as i would:  "most noticeable wear was just a slight lightening of the color from a dark graphite to maybe a medium graphite"

 

i love them.  Best $350 spent on golf equipment by me, ever

[Popeye64]

2 hours ago, Eric Elliott said:

I am sorry that I did not respond for a while - lots of stuff going on in my world since mid-August.  Nothing life threatening, just got laid off and trying to find a new job and get acclimated.

 

Someone asked my DBM set is holding up, and someone else responded exactly as i would:  "most noticeable wear was just a slight lightening of the color from a dark graphite to maybe a medium graphite"

 

i love them.  Best $350 spent on golf equipment by me, ever

It's a shame they are moving away from the finish because it makes the head unbendable. Though the DRM finish shows a lot of promise. And remains bendable. 

Plus that iron design has truly proven to be timeless. 

[azstu324]

On 10/23/2021 at 11:25 AM, Popeye64 said:

I find the finish on the DRM to be holding up as delivered. No signs of oxidation. Some signs of slight discoloration but it sort of adds character. I put them away wet and dirty too. Not treating them well shows no adverse effects. 

Feel wise I really can't tell the difference between the two finishes. 

In case anybody cared to know, I left my TSW-DRM wedge outside during a 3 day rainstorm. I didn't leave it in the actual rain but it was under our back patio overhang on a table in the much wetter than usual air for a few days. Starting to see some different looking oxidation on the face and a few rust spots show on the hosel.

I really don't know if it has anything to do with the layer of whatever potential protection wearing off on the face but yesterday I was spinning the ball like I've never done before. Short chips just off the green were doing 1 bounce and then coming to a dead stop. Every full to 3/4 length shot, I could visibly see the ball bounce once and then zip backward a good 5-8'. I've NEVER been able to do that here in AZ with a wedge!

 

 

[azstu324]

It's been a hot minute since I posted anything here. Being that I'm the "biological father" of this thread, I guess I feel like I have some kind of responsibility to make sure that it continues to grow, gets some kind of attention, and every now and again gets some food (content). 

I just put in an order for the new Maltby Max 60* wedge coming with the stock TT Score shaft in R flex. For a while, I thought that I didn't really need anything higher than my TSW 56*.. but I've been having some pretty good fun with a Callaway PM Grind 58*/11* that I recently picked up for a back yard practice wedge.. and it's since become my paint brush for anything around the green. The only thing that I wish that it had was just a hair more loft. Now I know that the Calli PM and Maltby MAX are 2 very different wedges as far as bounce, overall shape, and leading edge go but I really like the ability to use the full-face grooves on certain types of finesse shots, and on full shots my miss does tend to be toward the toe so it would be nice to have that as a safety net.. although I don't really plan to use this for full shots. The only thing that I'm slightly concerned about is the bounce on the 60* is pretty low. I do like to effectively use the bounce and open up the face whenever I need to go high so I'm just not sure if this club will have the ability. That's been something that I've loved with the TSW 56*/12* is the ability to lay the face open but with a grind that allows for the club to still stay relatively flush to the ground. 

@Popeye64 maybe you can lend your $.02 as you already have some experience with this wedge..?   If I've ordered the 60* with 6* of bounce, would I be good having the club bent to 62*, therefore increasing the bounce to 8*? I'm reading that's how that works but don't really know if that's exactly how it would works on this club. Also, I'm still considering changing my order to a 58*/8* and bending to 60*/10* but again, with the sole on this one I'm not sure how effective that would be. 

Cheers!

 

 

[Popeye64]

On 4/19/2022 at 2:02 PM, azstu324 said:

It's been a hot minute since I posted anything here. Being that I'm the "biological father" of this thread, I guess I feel like I have some kind of responsibility to make sure that it continues to grow, gets some kind of attention, and every now and again gets some food (content). 

I just put in an order for the new Maltby Max 60* wedge coming with the stock TT Score shaft in R flex. For a while, I thought that I didn't really need anything higher than my TSW 56*.. but I've been having some pretty good fun with a Callaway PM Grind 58*/11* that I recently picked up for a back yard practice wedge.. and it's since become my paint brush for anything around the green. The only thing that I wish that it had was just a hair more loft. Now I know that the Calli PM and Maltby MAX are 2 very different wedges as far as bounce, overall shape, and leading edge go but I really like the ability to use the full-face grooves on certain types of finesse shots, and on full shots my miss does tend to be toward the toe so it would be nice to have that as a safety net.. although I don't really plan to use this for full shots. The only thing that I'm slightly concerned about is the bounce on the 60* is pretty low. I do like to effectively use the bounce and open up the face whenever I need to go high so I'm just not sure if this club will have the ability. That's been something that I've loved with the TSW 56*/12* is the ability to lay the face open but with a grind that allows for the club to still stay relatively flush to the ground. 

@Popeye64 maybe you can lend your $.02 as you already have some experience with this wedge..?   If I've ordered the 60* with 6* of bounce, would I be good having the club bent to 62*, therefore increasing the bounce to 8*? I'm reading that's how that works but don't really know if that's exactly how it would works on this club. Also, I'm still considering changing my order to a 58*/8* and bending to 60*/10* but again, with the sole on this one I'm not sure how effective that would be. 

Cheers!

 

 

When it comes to bending wedges or irons for that matter, I am in the leave them alone camp. I'm all for keeping your irons dialed in for lie angle an slightly tweaking a loft to get it in line with the head above and below it if the distance gaps are not quite right. 

But bending wedges to achieve more bounce or to gain some distance to me is way over thinking things. The design of the Max Milled has a constant curve in the rocker sole. It simply glides through the turf. I can't imagine anyone needing more bounce with these. 

A 60° wedge for me is only going about 65yards on a stout 3/4 swing. If I strengthen the loft it might go 67 or 68... to what end. Weakening the club is the same effect. Hardly any change in performance. Then changing the loft to effect bounce and you've altered the design goal of the head. The very long and smooth rocker soles offer a large amount of effective bounce. The TSW sole has a defined V sole that if you don't bury the leading edge in the turf can give you a wedge that's hard to play. If you shallow out a bit it can give you a wedge that get through the grass quite well when that v sole throws the club up and out of the turf. Though a lot of good players feel the TSw can dig into the turf a bit much. They never quite get to the benefit of the V. 

I have my wedges 52, 56, 60. I order the sole width as to how much help I need with each loft. I can get away with the .90 sole for the 52, 56. The 60 needs to be the 1.05. The Max Milled offers a lot of help to a digger like me. Don't dig as much.... TSW. Clip it clean.. MG Tour. I just let the design do its job without obsessing over where the bounce is or tweaking the loft. 

The bounce reading on the Max Milled wedge on the 60 only being 6° isn't telling the whole story of the wedge. The elongated sole provides an effective bounce far greater the 6°. So to me bending to get more bounce is really unnecessary. I'm the last one to tell anyone not to experiment as I build out of the box setups.. but this is something I allow the design engineers to figure out. 

[azstu324]

On 4/23/2022 at 3:45 AM, Popeye64 said:

When it comes to bending wedges or irons for that matter, I am in the leave them alone camp. I'm all for keeping your irons dialed in for lie angle an slightly tweaking a loft to get it in line with the head above and below it if the distance gaps are not quite right. 

But bending wedges to achieve more bounce or to gain some distance to me is way over thinking things. The design of the Max Milled has a constant curve in the rocker sole. It simply glides through the turf. I can't imagine anyone needing more bounce with these. 

A 60° wedge for me is only going about 65yards on a stout 3/4 swing. If I strengthen the loft it might go 67 or 68... to what end. Weakening the club is the same effect. Hardly any change in performance. Then changing the loft to effect bounce and you've altered the design goal of the head. The very long and smooth rocker soles offer a large amount of effective bounce. The TSW sole has a defined V sole that if you don't bury the leading edge in the turf can give you a wedge that's hard to play. If you shallow out a bit it can give you a wedge that get through the grass quite well when that v sole throws the club up and out of the turf. Though a lot of good players feel the TSw can dig into the turf a bit much. They never quite get to the benefit of the V. 

I have my wedges 52, 56, 60. I order the sole width as to how much help I need with each loft. I can get away with the .90 sole for the 52, 56. The 60 needs to be the 1.05. The Max Milled offers a lot of help to a digger like me. Don't dig as much.... TSW. Clip it clean.. MG Tour. I just let the design do its job without obsessing over where the bounce is or tweaking the loft. 

The bounce reading on the Max Milled wedge on the 60 only being 6° isn't telling the whole story of the wedge. The elongated sole provides an effective bounce far greater the 6°. So to me bending to get more bounce is really unnecessary. I'm the last one to tell anyone not to experiment as I build out of the box setups.. but this is something I allow the design engineers to figure out. 

Thank you sir! I knew that you would step in with some knowledge bombs! I'll just play it as it comes and go from there. Without having a "relief" grind like the TSW's, it probably wouldn't be the best idea to increase the bounce anyway as that might just raise the leading edge ever so slightly. I'm really excited to get this in to try out.