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Driver-3 wood question


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I’m recently out of a driver fitting. I am looking for a new 3 wood and I wanted to know if the shaft I got fitted in my driver has any carryover to my 3 wood. I really learned a lot in the fitting but I’m not looking to pay for another golftec session for a 3 wood. Driver shaft is a Green Hzdrus Smoke 70x  
 

Taylormade Woods

Cobra Hybrid

Hogan Irons
HiToe Wedges

Spider Putter

Snell MTBX golf balls 

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Plenty of golfers like to match their fairway wood shafts to their driver, but I'd say it really just depends on what you're looking to do with your fairway wood and what type of head you are using. Most of the time when getting fit for a driver you are only trying to optimize two things - distance and accuracy. Depending on how you use your fairway wood, you may prefer to work on trajectory a bit more to give you a little holding power when hitting into greens not to mention that where you use your fairway (off the tee, or off the turf) may dictate a change in shaft profile.

Ultimately the best thing to do if you don't wish to leave any performance on the table is schedule another fitting.

Driver: :mizuno-small: ST190 9.5* Fujikura Atmos Blue 5S
Fairway Wood: :mizuno-small: ST190 15* Fujikura Atmos Blue 6S
Hybrid: :mizuno-small: CLK 17* Fujikura Speeder EVO HB
Irons: :bridgestone-small: J40 CB (3-PW) Dynamic Gold Tour Issue X100
Wedges: :taylormade-small: Milled Grind 2 54* & 58* Dynamic Gold S200
Putter: :odyssey-small: Tri-Hot 5k Two 34"
Bag: :titleist-small: Players 5 Stand Bag
Ball: Maxfli Tour

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It's unlikely that the same shaft is going to be your best fit on both. That said, if you like the loading and feel of it in the driver a version of it might be great in your fairway, I. E. Atmos blue in driver, red in fairways. But their shaft lengths and clubhead dynamics are almost as different as your 5w to a 5i. 

 

On the plus side, you can pick a number of them up on eBay used relatively cheap and try them that way for almost the cost of a CC or Golftec fitting. 

WITB:

Driver:   :taylormade-small: SIM2 Max 12° - Accra TZ6 M4

FW Wood:     th.jpg.d6e2abdaeb04f007fd259c979f389de6.jpg Gen5 0311 7w  Fujikura Motore X F3

Irons:   :srixon-small: ZX7 PW-7i, ZX5 6i-5i

Wedges: :cleveland-small:  Zipcore 50°, 58°

Putter:   :taylormade-small: MySpider X

Cart: image.png.5aa5e9b8c0d6e08a2b12be76a06a07ca.pngOnewheel XR+

Ball: :srixon-small: Z-Star Diamond/ Z-Star XV

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13 hours ago, TR1PTIK said:

Plenty of golfers like to match their fairway wood shafts to their driver, but I'd say it really just depends on what you're looking to do with your fairway wood and what type of head you are using. Most of the time when getting fit for a driver you are only trying to optimize two things - distance and accuracy. Depending on how you use your fairway wood, you may prefer to work on trajectory a bit more to give you a little holding power when hitting into greens not to mention that where you use your fairway (off the tee, or off the turf) may dictate a change in shaft profile.

Ultimately the best thing to do if you don't wish to leave any performance on the table is schedule another fitting.

This right here, especially the fitting part. 
 

Just to add a little bit to it. The normal recommendation is to go up a weight offering in 3w from driver but I’ve been fit to the same shaft and weight in my wood as my driver and other times have been in a different shaft profile because that was what worked best.

 

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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11 minutes ago, Gsi10561 said:

why do you  want a heavier shaft for a 3 wood

In basic terms it helps keep a consistent feel in the swing for the two clubs, since it's  shorter shaft the heavier weight helps offset that in terms of overall feel.

That is just a very general way of thinking that goes back many years, but a specific club fitting might find something else works best for you. 

:ping-small: G430 Max 10K 

:titelist-small: TSiR1 15.0 Aldlia Ascent 60g

:titelist-small: TSR2 18.0 PX Aldila Ascent 6og

:titelist-small: TSi1 20 Aldila Ascent Shafts R

:titelist-small: T350 5-GW SteelFiber I80 

:titelist-small: SM10 48F/54M and58K

:ping-small: S159 48S/52S/56W/60B

:scotty-cameron-1: Select 5.5 Flowback 35" 

:titelist-small: ProV1  Play number 12

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Gsi10561 said:

why do you  want a heavier shaft for a 3 wood

Generally speaking, a 3-wood is shorter than a driver with a lighter head weight. In order to give the feel of swinging similar to the driver, the 3-wood shaft is normally heavier than the equivalent driver - as a general rule of thumb by 10g. 

There's no right or wrong - it's all about preference

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11 minutes ago, Gsi10561 said:

why do you  want a heavier shaft for a 3 wood

Because you need to offset the length and the difference in head weight between driver and fairway wood

Driver: PXG 0811 X+ Proto w/UST Helium 5F4

Wood: TaylorMade M5 5W w/Accra TZ5 +1/2”, TaylorMade Sim 3W w/Aldila rogue white

Hybrid: PXG Gen2 22* w/AD hybrid

Irons: PXG Gen3 0311T w/Nippon modus 120

Wedges: TaylorMade MG2 50*, Tiger grind 56/60

Putter: Scotty Caemeron Super Rat1

Ball: Titleist Prov1

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I've always liked my FWs to feel a bit heavier than my driver because I have to play them with a more descending AoA. I like to take a slight divot on FW shots and like them to feel more like my irons than my driver. I typically go up 10-20g.

BT

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